All of that sounds reasonable with the exception that the current wisdom holds that static stretching before exercise isn't a great idea, as it reduces strength and coordination for an hour or two. Thorough stretching once you're done will definitely help you get back up to speed without crocking yourself, though.http://www.nhs.uk/Livewell/fitness/Pages/Do-I-need-to-stretch-before-or-after-a-run-or-sports-and-exercise.aspx
I train at Bloc too. I'm there every Wednesday evening I had a finger injury a year or so ago and took me some time to get over it fully. The key really will be to always warm up fully before getting on anything too crimpy/finger-y, and try to open-hold as much as you can. Avoid full crimps on anything for a while. Perhaps tape the previously injured finger for a while once you start introducing full crimps again.
Why would he want to avoid crimping? It's perfectly natural (go and watch some kids climb, you won't see kids passively dragging incuts). If you avoid it, you'll become weak at it, and hence be more prone to getting injured when you do inevitably have to crimp in anger.
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2009/10/to-crimp-or-not-to-crimp.htmlCrimping is indeed the riskiest grip position for the fingers and the more systematic your training of it, the risk of picking up a pulley injury, or just inflamed and swollen PIP joints gets really high....In my experience, crimping is needed to get strong at crimping. So the idea that some support that you can avoid it altogether and still get strong on crimps I feel is incorrect....the vast majority of climbers crimp far too much and would seriously benefit (in both performance and injury risk) in developing their openhanded grip to a point where they use it more often than crimps and are at least as strong openhanded as crimped....Mini case study: I used to be one of those who crimped too much, and averaged about 3 serious pulley injuries per year for 5 years until I finally was forced to get strong openhanded...Since then I’ve had one very minor pulley tweak (needing only a slight drop in training intensity for a few weeks) in the past five years.
Good idea until you wake in the small hours finding some hooker being banged over the bonnet of your car.
So I am 29 right now, still young!