[nik at work]

TomTom I hope everything gets sorted for you.

After too long out in the wilderness it may be time for me to rejoin the fold...

[shark]

Good to see some renewed interest.

11.1-3

M.
T. Malham with Tommy and Mina. Claggy driving up with snow on high ground. Crag dry. Sun came out long enough to make the footholds glassy - we all had foot slips. Then clouded over with a short dusting of snow then rain - was mainly cold. Cons x1 then x2.
Go 1. Jumared up to horn BD warmed up on high moves then comfortably linked horn to top - first time this year.
Go 2 tried throw to top but foot skated on right trav then tried again but slipped straight off came down. Walk round Cove
Go 3 touched horn from ground Then completed in 3 overlapping sections. Walk round Cove again Got soaked
Go 4 got horn from ground but didn't hold it. Completed in 3 overlapping sections again
W.
T.
F. Malham with Tommy. Warmer temp about 7degrees but wind blowing in. Oak had a wet streak and undercut by third was undryably wet. Quite busy. TR 1xCons then 2x.
Go1 Decided to miss start and try by wet undercut but with cross hands on sidepull and undercut pocket . Worked left traverse for micro beta and warm up then did almost throw to top (fell last hard bit of traverse)
Go 2 Throw to middle of traverse then undercut to top
Go 3 Throw to top - first time this year :-) Dont understand why I did better on this go as I felt tired. Stripped it. Tommy then did Raindogs fourth redpoint 
S.
S. Rowtor with the boys. Very quiet - just us there for most of the session. Warmest day of the year so far. Sought out Short Seans Reachy Roof 7A. Got to work on this but Tommy knocked his bad knee and called it a day. I tweaked my back. Ben got it - his first 7A outdoors . We then had a go at Blood Falls without success. Went to the Druid Inn for a bite to eat.

Proud Dad week. Looking forward to more bouldering sessions with the boys as we have a good craic together. Ben's 7A was long overdue but good that he did it in a session. Video below. Still blown away by Tommy doing Raindogs - video of him almost doing it last year below.

[andy_e]

What are the odds on Tommy doing the Oak before his father? Got to be worth a few bob punt I reckon!

[Wood FT]

well done Ben and Tommy, hope Tommy kept the leg flick beta.

[duncan]

STG: rehab. finger & knee
MTG: tbc according to above. Still reevaluating these.
LTG: the usual LH+F.

M - Westway with the lad and his girlfriend (both 6 year old). Her first time, very impressive, both ‘go it’ and were happily working routes, eliminating holds, and all the usual nonsense. Had to drag them away after 5 hours. I see a pair of belay glasses in my future. 4 routes on the autobelay, knee and finger both pretty creaky but the 237th comeback officially starts here.
T - Firefighting at work. Recovery drink after.
W - Knee exercises: squats, step-ups; Micro fingerboard session: jugs, three finger deep slots
T - Knee exercises
F - Knee exercises: squats, step-ups; Micro fingerboard session.
S - Poorly. Gentle knee exercises
S - Gentle knee exercises

Missed four weeks due to knee injury brought on by over-enthusiastic knee-dropping. MRI confirmed complex/degenerative mensicus tear. Aiming for conservative management if possible (5 year outcomes favour non-operative treatment) so after a few days on crutches have been ramping up the quads. exercises. Doing lots of squats and step-ups with increasing depth/height. Also biceps curls, rows, pull-ups etc., and some cautious fingerboarding to stop me going mad. Not sure how helpful it is for climbing but it maintains some load on relevant muscles and connective tissues. 3 months on and the middle finger PIP joint still needs careful handling: it’s still easy to over-do it with hangs or pull-ups, even on a bar. 

It’s been tricky maintaining motivation with two newish injuries alongside the ongoing tweaks but I’m lining up some potentially good trips which always helps. Feel like I’m close to climbing outside. I’d do so if I was on a trip but it’s harder to justify 6 hours in a car for three easy top-ropes you’ve done before....

Well done ashton6.

cheque, just getting onto these routes is frequently a mission, before you even consider filming them. How many half-decent seacliff films are there, have we reached Tommy Caldwell's fingers yet? I hadn't thought about training for this but bigwall conditioning is exactly what you need isn't it? Lots of step-ups, chin-ups, and biceps curls (thumbs-up) if you can't do the specific stuff.

Good luck with the medical issues TT and coops.

[ashtond6]

A great week for me, stg, mtg and ltg achieved

Good effort, your goal-setting skills are evidently lagging behind your cimbing ones though. 

I was going to say the same. Goal of gaining only 2 grades on your onsight over 3 years? It's clear you should be looking at something a lot harder than that! Well done!

Thanks for all the really positive comments all 

But in fairness,  it really suited me. (But i dont care!) I had to go for a hold and luckily it was good! If you gave me a 7b roof horror fest I'd have no chance, but I deliberately avoid these due to my shoulder

[fried]

Hold in there TT.

M- Nothing
T - Nothing
W - Indoor session, tired but did a good few easy probs of a new reset.
Th - rest
F - Didn't really want to climb, but I was working next to my wall with a free afternoon...Big new reset, did loads of easy stuff and left feeling not too exhausted.

Sa - Trying to make the best of an unpredictable weekend of weather plus family commitments. Got up early, went to Drei Zinnen, if was dryish, but dingy and I wasn't feeling it, so I went to Sabots which is a bit more open. Made some blue problems that I've done loads of times look very difficult. Made a new high point on Service compris. Sub-optimal conditions generally dry but greasy. Hope we get loads more rain to clean off some of the problems, first few red circuit problems were a right mess, especially since it's been raining all week.

Su - Rest

[nai]

Blimey, all happening this week, good and bad and very bad

My by comparison minor ailment, I have a crocked knee - stiff, swollen, range of movement restricted.  Keeps clicking and feels loose sometimes, mostly discomfort but occasional pain when I load it in just the right/wrong way.  No idea how it happened, it was just like that when I woke up 2 weeks ago and has been like it since.

Goals - Raindogs, complete a few of my Peak WIPs

M - fingerboard, HI AeroCap
T - AeroPow, foot on campus
w - rest
Th - Woke up with a stiff neck, trapped Trap I think, tried to loosen it up but wasn't playing so LI AeroCap in the morning and HI AeroCap in the evening (probably should have just rested)
F - Managed to get going, had a great board session. Like, really really good. Weighted pullups
S - 10 mins core first thing having slacked off all week
S - fingerboard & weighted pullups

Fell off the diet (ok, and booze) wagon a bit this week during school holidays but not too much damage done.  Back to the grind now school has restarted.

[Wood FT]

Goals - Raindogs, complete a few of my Peak WIPs

Nai are you a midweek Malham-er or can you do weekends? I have designs on Raindogs too, sacked off the idea recently as it didn't fit the grand plan but if there's someone else keen projecting it

[nai]

Intermittent midweeker, can only get there one day every two weeks so hoping to get up there a few weekends too.
It was supposed to be an aim for later in the year but not managing to get away over Easter meant doing three sessions and getting some good links done, makes sense to keep trying while it's fresh, I had all my sequence from last year written down but still spent the whole of the first session relearning it.

[shurt]

Well done to all and sorry to hear about your news TT

m: tried to do some fingerboarding but felt too tired so stopped
t: nothing
w: managed to get to Uphill Quarry for the first time but only had a few hours. Met a couple of mates up there and one had a rope down The Living Dead (7b) so warmed up going bolt to bolt on this, next top rope I got about 3/4 of the way up and then after a rest had a good redpoint attempt falling about 3 moves from the top. Then I had to go.
t-s: nothing

Am feeling so tired at the moment for various reasons and finding it difficult to find time or motivation to train. Having said that I think I am still surfing the wave of fitness from training for the spain trip so that feels good. Bit gutted I didn't get the route done as that's top wack for me.

[T_B]

84.5kg

M - internal oblique strain trying Opium roof. Ow!
T - Canon pottering testing side hmm. PM 30 min run.
W - Sentier des 25 bosses circuit as recommended by Fried. Mega epic run in rain 17km 440m of ascent.
T -
F - Cuvier trying Controle Technique, Cassepot did Double Axels.
S -
S -

Oblique strain scuppered chances of doing anything hard in Font, it's improving but I won't be climbing anything steep for a little while. Motivation somewhat dented.

[Wood FT]

Intermittent midweeker, can only get there one day every two weeks so hoping to get up there a few weekends too.
It was supposed to be an aim for later in the year but not managing to get away over Easter meant doing three sessions and getting some good links done, makes sense to keep trying while it's fresh, I had all my sequence from last year written down but still spent the whole of the first session relearning it.

Good luck, a session with Shark barking out the moves should see it cemented into the grey matter

[shark]

I had all my sequence from last year written down but still spent the whole of the first session relearning it.

Good luck, a session with Shark barking out the moves should see it cemented into the grey matter

You will learn by the numbers ...let me see your war face

[dave]

You'd better start shitting him Tiffany cufflinks...

[nai]

Intermittent midweeker, can only get there one day every two weeks so hoping to get up there a few weekends too.
It was supposed to be an aim for later in the year but not managing to get away over Easter meant doing three sessions and getting some good links done, makes sense to keep trying while it's fresh, I had all my sequence from last year written down but still spent the whole of the first session relearning it.

Good luck, a session with Shark barking out the moves should see it cemented into the grey matter

Cheers, it's all hard-wired now, just struggling with the windmill move (nothing to do with making the same daft stupid foot error immediately prior to it FIVE times in a row, of course). Need to find a way of making that higher percentage but have an idea, it's a long shot but it might just work....

[shark]

If you check the vid of Tommy at 1.04 he gets a high right foot in the bulge and pushes off that as much as the left on the windmill

[nai]

Cheers, that could be worth a look,  totally different to what I'm doing, standing into the V slot.  Whole sequence is very different in fact.

[cheque]

Drove past yesterday and must have seen you on the ab down original route. I would love to see footage of the big routes over there, there's a snippet of Bastille in the extras section of one of Al Lee's films (Psyche 2 maybe) and the rock is certainly the star.

I was on the abseil from the top of Debauchery actually- there were two teams on Original Route over the course of the afternoon though. The rock's certainly the star of the climberless test footage I shot... I was just testing systems for other cliffs but it would be great to take some photos of the routes around there (Laurin/ NoBD etc.) for the new guide.

cheque, just getting onto these routes is frequently a mission, before you even consider filming them. How many half-decent seacliff films are there, have we reached Tommy Caldwell's fingers yet? I hadn't thought about training for this but bigwall conditioning is exactly what you need isn't it? Lots of step-ups, chin-ups, and biceps curls (thumbs-up) if you can't do the specific stuff.

Cheers for the pep-talk.  I found a cheesy posefest video of Jimmy Chin doing all sorts of crossfit excercises that I'm taking as inspiration. 

[Wood FT]

I was just testing systems for other cliffs but it would be great to take some photos of the routes around there (Laurin/ NoBD etc.) for the new guide.

New BMC guide? It'll need a nice shot of the classic E3 5c Darius 

[nai]

I was just testing systems for other cliffs but it would be great to take some photos of the routes around there (Laurin/ NoBD etc.) for the new guide.

New BMC guide? It'll need a nice shot of the classic E3 5c Darius 

cough Scoop Wall cough

All those E3s have been on my to-do list for too long, might help get my arse in gear if you need a stooge.

[filz]

tomtom all the best!

M. nothing.
T. board climbing. Trying to climb a couple of projects before it's too hot. Not there yet.
W. worked till late. nothing
T. fb max hangs. Good session
F. recruiting session with weights. Some clean and press and deadlifts.
S. Bouldering. Too hot, but good session. Felt strong.
S. Antagonist training mainly. Ring dips, rows and flies. Reverse pullups, headstands, farmers walk

[Hugh]

Hope you get sorted soon TT.

STG: 7B.
MTG: Don't get broken. Get strong for Santa Gadea in June.

Mon: Run 4.5km
Tues: Very brief but fun woody session at TCA. Almost repeated a couple of decent problems - felt pretty solid.
Wed: FB (7/8s +10kg x 5) x 3. Fail on last rep of 2, last 2 of 3
Thu: Nowt
Fri: Neath, pootled about showing a mate round, worked Triassic
Sat: FB (7/8s +10kg x 5) x 3. Fail on last rep of 2,3. Rings, 3x6 dips, 3x8 flyes
Sun: Rest

[Duma]

Tues: Very brief but fun woody session at TCA. Almost repeated a couple of decent problems - felt pretty solid.

make the most of it...

[monkoffunk]

Sad times