I'd say I pretty much always climb to exhaustion on 80% of these sessions
I'd say I pretty much always climb to exhaustion on 80% of these sessions.
If you can, find a chiro - but not one who actually believes in the mumbo jumbo at the heart of chiro just one who's very clued-up on dealing with nerve impingement and how physical manipulation can help; ideally one who comes recommended by other climbers who you trust.If you're anywhere near n.Wales I recommend (not that you know or should trust me!) seeing Iain at the n.Wales spine clinic.If the nerves going into that right arm are compromised - e.g. where they exit the neck or somewhere in the shoulder joint - then some theories suggest that the compromised nerve firing (and compromised power) leaves muscles/tendons more susceptible to injury.A good specialist can do some simple tests to test for compromised strength/power from nerve impingement.
I found theraband pointless and have recently upped this to dumbells
pretty much always climb to exhaustion on 80% of these sessions.
Don't know why I've quoted myself in the post above
Following this, i've had non stop torment..... Later than year, I was lapping juggy routes on a 30-40 degree wall & felt a deep burning pain in my RH palm. Turned out to be a flexor tendon issue. This still rears up every few months & continues to be a problem to this day. I do a lot of antag exercises.
Quote from: ashtond6 on March 08, 2016, 06:19:13 pmFollowing this, i've had non stop torment..... Later than year, I was lapping juggy routes on a 30-40 degree wall & felt a deep burning pain in my RH palm. Turned out to be a flexor tendon issue. This still rears up every few months & continues to be a problem to this day. I do a lot of antag exercises.Interested to see you're doing antagonist exercises for a flexor tendon strain. what exactly do these consist of? Just asking because I recently read this: http://drjuliansaunders.com/ask-dr-j-issue-211-why-icing-slows-healing-and-the-imbalance-myth/ which says that exercising wrist and finger extensors to prevent finger tweaks or anything else is total bollocks, but it seems to be a popular one these days nonetheless. I used to continuously get painful flexor tendon strains but based on Dave Mcs book I've found the way to rehab them is gentle, progressive loading.
More really helpful comments all round, thanksAnyone wanna recommend how to get rid of this before Spain in 13 days? (The burning pain in shoulder) it's hard to know if it needs a few days to cool down, or heavy stretching etc etc
Quote from: ashtond6 on March 09, 2016, 08:58:29 pmMore really helpful comments all round, thanksAnyone wanna recommend how to get rid of this before Spain in 13 days? (The burning pain in shoulder) it's hard to know if it needs a few days to cool down, or heavy stretching etc etcas someone mentioned before, try to find a good chiropractor (or a manual therapist, or an osteopath) , preferably someone with good references, or at least lots of experience. they may be able to help with the burning sensations.i have found heavy stretching makes situations worse. stretching is great for keeping things loose, but once there are knots and weak points, i find stretching stretches the weak points, leaves the knots. massage can resolve the knots.