UKBouldering.com

L'escamarla, Siurana (Read 5957 times)

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2938
  • Karma: +160/-8
L'escamarla, Siurana
March 08, 2016, 11:57:18 am
Hi,

Has anyone done this recently or have photographic memory from the past? I would love to do it this trip and any beta would be greatly appreciated, not wanting to suck the joy of discovery from proceedings but it's only a week long trip.

Ta,

Guy

I've seen this vid which includes it but not sure of his height etc.




highrepute

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1285
  • Karma: +109/-0
  • Blah
#1 Re: L'escamarla, Siurana
March 08, 2016, 12:08:06 pm
I did it 2012. Can't remember much but the crux is the traverse back left from 2.27 in that vid, I remember the feet being shit or too far away or something. Up to there it was fairly steady (if anything the guy in vid makes it look harder than it is) and after there it's on big holds that you would only fall off if not very fit.

AJM

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 454
  • Karma: +24/-0
#2 Re: L'escamarla, Siurana
March 08, 2016, 12:26:31 pm
I did it about 2 years ago now. I can't see the vid at work so can't make any comment on particular bits of that although I can try when I get home.

The crux is definitely the traverse left. I can't remember more precise details (and I may have existing ones wrong!) and its bound to be height dependent (I'm 5'11"). But I remember stepping out onto the terrible footholds and then a move or so in I think I was crimping the top of something with my left as a straight down pull on something you might otherwise take as a left hand sidepull. There's then an obviously good right foot pretty high that I think I got my foot onto allowing me to roll my right hand over onto a right hand sidepull and then span left for the hole/pocket thing? I'll try to watch the video to see if I can point at anything specific.

There's a bit which could be balancey a little further up but you can also do a big reach up with the right (and an awkward match maybe?) instead - I think there are some holds at the point where you can traverse off into the Ramadan linkup.

The top is glory jugs.

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2938
  • Karma: +160/-8
#3 Re: L'escamarla, Siurana
March 08, 2016, 12:46:08 pm
Excellent, thanks very much both

AJM

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 454
  • Karma: +24/-0
#4 Re: L'escamarla, Siurana
March 08, 2016, 06:54:16 pm
Just had a look at the vid. That move at 2.03 I don't think is as hard as he grunts it out to be. I faffed for ages trying all sorts of options but if you just get on with it its fine.

At 2.27, I'd imagine I probably had my right foot high as he appears to there but with my left hand up near his right hand somewhere, then match (well, in no strictly technical sense of the word do I mean match, but have hands on holds vaguely near each other up there) before reaching out to the pocket which I think is the bit he hits at about 2.34.

I think although I'm not sure that the match he is doing at about 2.48 is the one I mentioned as being an alternative to the balance sequence, although theres a missing segment in the video as to exactly how he got there.

I've had a look at the few photos of me on the route and I'm afraid the first one is of me at about the point the video recuts in (i.e. doing the move he does at 2.58) which whilst it helps confirm that the bit he is hand matching on is probably the same one I matched on (having initially reached it with my right hand) doesn't give any insight into anything especially useful in terms of what I was using in order to do that move.

Three Nine

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1305
  • Karma: +136/-55
#5 Re: L'escamarla, Siurana
March 08, 2016, 07:41:36 pm
Kranko and I did it in 2010 I think.

For me being shit at bouldering and ok and standing on my feet, the trav was fine but I thought there was a hard (biggish?) move before you go left. That's the bit i struggled with anyhow. Kranko pissed that move then fell off the trav.

Oh and its utterly brill.


Three Nine

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1305
  • Karma: +136/-55
#6 Re: L'escamarla, Siurana
March 08, 2016, 07:46:51 pm
If you piss it, as seems likely (its not 7c+ like WIld in Me or anything!), then Outback (just along to the right as you look at the crag) is also another utterly brill and British-style-but-with-spanish-quality&grading 7c+

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4259
  • Karma: +340/-25
#7 Re: L'escamarla, Siurana
March 08, 2016, 07:58:12 pm
Yeah, like mark says I recall the lower crux being a bug pull, hence finding it OK, and the upper crux being a techy trav,, hence falling off.
Outback is just as good if not better.

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3818
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
#8 Re: L'escamarla, Siurana
March 08, 2016, 11:25:01 pm
Did it in 2012, my memory isn't good enough for beta, but I do remember thinking as Mark says it definitely isn't Brit 7c+ and I reckon you should do it in a session Guy

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2938
  • Karma: +160/-8
#9 Re: L'escamarla, Siurana
March 09, 2016, 09:36:52 am
Just had a look at the vid. That move at 2.03 I don't think is as hard as he grunts it out to be......
Thanks, tasty looking bit that

Kranko and I did it in 2010 I think.
Oh and its utterly brill.
Yeah I've heard it's really good, will check out this other route though I can't help but think you're trying to sandbag me.... Did you both do La Crema? Harder but looks very good.

Did it in 2012, my memory isn't good enough for beta, but I do remember thinking as Mark says it definitely isn't Brit 7c+ and I reckon you should do it in a session Guy

I hope so, not much easy stuff in the vicinity for the gf

Ally Smith

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 328
  • Karma: +16/-0
#10 Re: L'escamarla, Siurana
March 09, 2016, 10:27:55 am
The thing with La Crema is that it's in the sun from mid-morning, so getting good connies on the little crimpers at the top is going to be a struggle.

L'escamarla gets much more shade in comparison, and is IMHO the better route. Soft at 7c+, nice techy traverse on the crux (i came off here too  :oops: ) a little outro to better holds, then glory jugs (f6b+?) to the top.

I did see another chap use some odd beta on the crux where is traversed lower on better holds, did some strange hand swap pockets weirdness before moving up through the crux section; keep an open mind for solutions on how to best proceed when working it.

The other 7c+ near L'escarmala (2 or 3 routes left?) was also good fun - very UK style just off vert crimping.

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2938
  • Karma: +160/-8
#11 Re: L'escamarla, Siurana
March 09, 2016, 10:49:23 am
The thing with La Crema is that it's in the sun from mid-morning, so getting good connies on the little crimpers at the top is going to be a struggle.

L'escamarla gets much more shade in comparison, and is IMHO the better route. Soft at 7c+, nice techy traverse on the crux (i came off here too  :oops: ) a little outro to better holds, then glory jugs (f6b+?) to the top.

I did see another chap use some odd beta on the crux where is traversed lower on better holds, did some strange hand swap pockets weirdness before moving up through the crux section; keep an open mind for solutions on how to best proceed when working it.
good knowledge on both items, afternoon shade is it on escamarla? (guide not to hand)
Quote
The other 7c+ near L'escarmala (2 or 3 routes left?) was also good fun - very UK style just off vert crimping.

yeah, Adam Mulholland told that one was nails but good

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2938
  • Karma: +160/-8
#12 Re: L'escamarla, Siurana
March 26, 2016, 05:07:58 pm
Cheers all, didn't do it but thanks for the info

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal