[quejada]

Hi there, a question for those diet gurus out there. I think the title is self-explanatory, but what people think is the best food to have after a deadhangs session on the fingerboard? As far as I was told, after a hard session at the wall, particularly if you train strength and power, the ideal meal contains lots of proteins and carbs, to make up for those burned and consumed from the muscles during hard training. But does this hold true also for deadhangs training, where you are not really working out your muscles as much as your finger tendons? or am I getting it wrong?
thanks
q

[petejh]

Like you say, for a workout where you significantly deplete muscle glycogen the current dogma science is a snack immediately following the workout, with a carbs to protein ratio of 3-4:1.

Exactly what food is probably not that important. The carb:protein ratio and taking it within the 'sweet spot' immediately following a workout are, allegedly, more important than exactly what you eat.

How much to eat depends on the intensity and how long the workout was. There are rough guidelines you can search.
It's only a small snack - so roughly 30-40g of carbs and 10g of protein from whichever combo of food/liquid you prefer.

Then a meal within 1.5-3 hours.

As for a deadhang sesh - where you might not be burning up as much muscle glycogen as for a hard bouldering/campussing sesh - I'd follow the same guideline ratio and consume it immediately after the workout, but I'd have a smaller snack. 15-20g carbs/5g protein.

http://df5v22780xplq.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/08-Endurance-Training-Read-Accelerate-Your-Recovery-4-to-1-Carb-to-Protein-Ratio.pdf

[quejada]

thanks petejh, this seems a very 'scientific' answer...

[webbo]

Where as my unscientific answer would be. It depends on the time of day, if train across lunch time. I will try and just eat fruit or failing that white toast and butter. If I do it later in the afternoon, I hope this missus is on one her off diet days and comes home with pizza, chips and wine.
I probably should mention due being incapacitated I spend days trying not to eat but fantasing about food.

[quejada]

hey petejh, I just finished reading the article you linked at, it's really interesting. have you got some suggestions for snacks or food combination that gives that 4:1 ratio that is recommend? in the article they give this example, which I am not particularly too excited about (don't like butter): 1/4 cup of nut butter with 3/4 cup of apple and banana slices
many thanks
q

[quejada]

pizza, chips and wine.

what??. if you try that in Italy, where I come from, you might end up being shot...

[abarro81]

Smash in a banana and a protein shake. I'd up the protein ratio compared to Pete's article since we're not enduro training (unless you're smashing out loads of repeaters, in which case 2 bananas and a protein shake should do the trick!)

[Muenchener]

Surely most of the guidelines are talking about people who have depleted the glycogen in ~20kgs of muscle in a deadlift/squat session. Versus ~2kgs of forearms.

[jwi]

Surely most of the guidelines are talking about people who have depleted the glycogen in ~20kgs of muscle in a deadlift/squat session. Versus ~2kgs of forearms.

^This. A long, hard, fingerboard session might burn as much as, what, 50 kcal? That's like half a banana or 50 g of rice. It seems ridiculous to worry about this compared to other nutritional concerns.

[BicepsMou]

Surely most of the guidelines are talking about people who have depleted the glycogen in ~20kgs of muscle in a deadlift/squat session. Versus ~2kgs of forearms.

+1

And adding some personal experimentation with e.g. whey protein I can tell that at least for me, what I eat, as opposed to what I drink :-) post finger boarding is by far the least relevant (=non measurable) factor for my finger strength progress.

I know, n=1 / anecdotal evidence ...

[SA Chris]

1/4 cup of nut butter with 3/4 cup of apple and banana slices

I expect they mean peanut butter, not the dairy stuff?

Smoothies made with frozen banana slices and peanut butter are apparently quite nice if you like peanut butter. Sadly I don't.

[cheque]

nut butter

 

[petejh]

Surely most of the guidelines are talking about people who have depleted the glycogen in ~20kgs of muscle in a deadlift/squat session. Versus ~2kgs of forearms.

Well yes. But we're climbers not runners/weightlifters, and tired forearms are tired forearms - if having tired forearm muscles reduces the effectiveness of your next climbing workout/climbing day at the crag then you can try to do something about it. You can try to ensure the glycogen stores in that little muscle are replaced as soon as possible following workouts/climbing days. The principle of replacing glycogen is the same in a forearm or a thigh, 2 kg or 20.


I agree that you probably don't need to be concerned about refuel much/at all immediately after a typical deadhang sesh. But after an PE sesh (insert your own interpretation of intensity) - I think you defo should try to replace the used glycogen asap if you want to follow an efficient schedule rather than waiting around longer than you 'need' to be to feel on good form again.

[quejada]

lots of interesting ideas and points of view...
I'll see how I get on with this 4:1 (or 4:2 as somebody suggested) carbs/prot ratio diet after training, tailoring it down to my needs and to the amount of workout I actually manage to squeeze in each session...
 

[Reprobate_Rob]

Just nail a chocolate Yazoo.

3:1 ratio of carbs to protein.
50p a dose.
Doesn't taste like ass.

[quejada]

that sound like a great idea! i'll check it out!
 

[webbo]

pizza, chips and wine.

what??. if you try that in Italy, where I come from, you might end up being shot...

I sure that I saw someone eating Pizza and chips in Sassofortino when I was there. Not me of course when in Rome etc.
They were probably German.

[Muesli]

Fried Black pudding. (on toast if you want carbs) 


High Protein, high fat, low sugar....surely the next media 'super food' to be raved about in the sunday supplements.

[SA Chris]

It was raved about as a superfood at beginning of year?

https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=black%20pudding%20super%20food

Nom.

[Jim]

salt and pepper ribs every time. If you've managed to motivate yourself to do such a boring thing then you surely deserve a treat

[moose]

For overall diet plans, this looks like the one... "eat like The Rock".  A healthful 500g of protein a day, including a tidy 1kg of cod. You'll just need to squeeze in the fingerboard session amidst 3hrs of cardio and weights and cooking 7 meals everyday.

http://fivethirtyeight.com/features/the-rock-dwayne-johnson-diet

[36chambers]

For overall diet plans, this looks like the one... "eat like The Rock".  A healthful 500g of protein a day, including a tidy 1kg of cod. You'll just need to squeeze in the fingerboard session amidst 3hrs of cardio and weights and cooking 7 meals everyday.

http://fivethirtyeight.com/features/the-rock-dwayne-johnson-diet

and steroids, don't forget the steroids

[rodma]

Haggis

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[petejh]

In total, that’s about five hours a day spent prepping food, eating food and working out. I’ve checked with my sources, and I’ve learned that there are only 24 hours in a day, so this was a massive time commitment.

Sauce?

[BicepsMou]

Sauce?

Mint sauce!
Wild boar always cooked and in mint sauce...