[tc]

I've got a copy of the old 7+8 you can have for nowt. PM me your address and I'll stick it in the post to you.

[galpinos]

You can borrow my 7+8s? It's the second edition I think. Manchester based if anyone from your lot is coming from this area.

[slackline]

our borrowed copy of the 7+8 hasn't materialised. It's out of stock everywhere so need an alternative (unless somebody is happy to lend me one in the Leeds region).

The "Off-Piste" guide from the Montchausse/Godoffe team who authored the old "Purple" circuits guide is very good as it covers problems in the 6a to 8c range across the forest in one book.

[Will Hunt]

Thanks for the responses everyone.

TC, I'd love to take you up on that offer but I'm afraid it probably wouldn't arrive in time. Leaving on Friday night.

Galpinos, that might actually be an option. It wouldn't be me doing the collecting and dropping off but there are folk coming from Manc. Not sure whether they can get over to yours though. Whereabouts are you?

Lagers, that sounds great, thanks for the offer! Maybe we could arrange to climb at the same crag on the first day (Sunday)?

[galpinos]

Will, I'm in Chorlton, SW Manc. I also have the Off-piste guide and the old OTE Bleau guide (not much use but does have a picture of midgets of the world unite flashing Alta in a scarf/poncho thing)

[Will Hunt]

Super duper. One of our lot could come over tomorrow night if that's convenient. If you PM me your address and phone number I can put him in touch with you.

Thanks again!

[SA Chris]

Super duper.

Spiffing what!

[joel182]

Bit of an emergency ask this. We have a copy of the 5+6 but our borrowed copy of the 7+8 hasn't materialised. It's out of stock everywhere so need an alternative (unless somebody is happy to lend me one in the Leeds region).

In another thread on this subject the Essential Font guide was recommended. Is this going to be useful for targeting climbs on this list or is there going to be a load of stuff that is difficult to find in a very selective guidebook? I'm likely to go again so don't mind getting something decent. I've never been too sold on the concept of 5+6 and 7+8 as it seems to me that the vast majority of visitors will need to buy two guidebooks and take both of them to the crag on the same day!

7+8 seems to be in stock at a lot of shops around Fontainebleau - it's in the SCape climbing shop I think, and also in good stock at the English bookshop (on Rue de Ferrare).

[monkoffunk]

Does anyone know when the new 7+8 guide is coming out? I heard a rumour there was one, but my French googling abilities let me down trying to confirm that.

[slackline]

Does anyone know when the new 7+8 guide is coming out? I heard a rumour there was one, but my French googling abilities let me down trying to confirm that.

My French is pretty much non-existant, but Cordee* list it as 2016-11-01



* Almost anything guide book related I'll check on Cordee since they're one of the largest UK distributors and stock most things.

[finbarrr]

Does anyone know when the new 7+8 guide is coming out? I heard a rumour there was one, but my French googling abilities let me down trying to confirm that.

My French is pretty much non-existant, but Cordee* list it as 2016-11-01

bart van raaij is busy working on the new guide, it has been a busy few years in fontainebleau development.


* Almost anything guide book related I'll check on Cordee since they're one of the largest UK distributors and stock most things.

[monkoffunk]

Almost anything guide book related I'll check on Cordee since they're one of the largest UK distributors and stock most things.

Awesome! Thanks for the tip.

[Will Hunt]

Mid trip update. I'm really really enjoying working through this list.

Angle Ben's - shouldn't really be on the list as the good bits you use on the arête are actually tiny ripples that pull skin off but I nearly did it last time so wanted to finish off. Squeaked my boots for the last go before sacking it off to save skin and the feet stuck for the slap to the top. Like floating.
Moved on towards Undertow and had a few goes. Despite being regarded soft it's very burly and we were tired. Left it off in favour of not going out too hard on first day.
Roche aux Sabots. Very much enjoyed l'Oblique and also did Smash which was fun. Both nice and skin friendly. Did Jet Set which wasnt great but nice and a relatively straightforward ego massage in good conditions. Le bond de hippopotame (that jump that nobody seemed to know about) was brilliant fun and soft.
Third day went to Cul de Chien and took it easy. The roof and a few oranges. Thought the roof was a deserved classic and unfairly maligned. It's not far to walk at all to get there and in the morning it was otherwise deserted and quiet. Once you've done it there are some great areas within ten mins walk.
Today we started with l'Araignee which is unfortunately marred by a dab magnet tree. Climbed it with a dab () and moved onto Charcuterie which for my money is vastly superior and should be on the list. Charging into the undercut once you've got the good jug is a hell of a move, and no dab tree to worry about. Went on to Cuvier Rempart which was immeasurably more pleasant an environment than Bas and did Duroxmanie - a complete gem. Had a quick play on the thing to the left (big tall slab/wall) but wasn't keen on the landing so ventured to Festin de Pierre. Great movement, if not a little soft, and then a couple of fabulous climbs around the corner - a tall unfinished layback crack with a slap at the end (Scarface) and the wall to the left (l'Apostrophe). Dunnyg impressively clawed up Conque a Doigts which was a bit too much like hard work and eliminate for my tastes.

Just thought I'd ramble on and let you all know how much fun your suggestions have given. Thanks to everyone who contributed 

[roddersm]

What's the conditions like out there?

[dave]

Generally good nick, warm in sun, coolish in shade. Hot in the usual suntraps.

[tomtom]

What's the conditions like out there?

I heard it was dry....

Not sure how dry though...

[lagerstarfish]

What's the conditions like out there?

mornings have been good - so good that I managed the proper start to Lépreux Direct (not my style) - only to find that the top is now several grades easier than it used to be.

 

it might as well be just an alternative finish to Le Surplomb du Lépreux

[dave]

Reckon someone has chipped the top slopers on lepreux, suspicious that despite the starting undercut breaking and making the first move desperate, the overall grade has remained the same.

[rodma]

Reckon someone has chipped the top slopers on lepreux, suspicious that despite the starting undercut breaking and making the first move desperate, the overall grade has remained the same.

I did it pre break and worked it with Mrs Rodma just post break and it was definitely harder at that point in time, but didn't get an upgrade the same way boucherie didn't get an upgrade immediately post break I guess. I found the undercut move all the way through to getting the second sloper to be the crux post break, where previously it felt like the flick to the top was the crux.

Sad to hear that lepreux has been altered by weaklings, there's nowt worse

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[dave]

Yeah the flick to the top used to be the crux by farm and the bottom bit fine, now the first move is nails (took me and lovejoy quite a few concerted goes 18mnths ago) and the top is now far easier as the holds feel way more positive.

Unfortunately I don't think this is punters trying to make a problem easier. I have a feeling it is probably local custodians/activists engaging in constructive chipping after a breakage to try and preserve a grade of a classic. I think they have form for this, pretty sure after the madman chipping incidents a few of the problems were subsequently "contructively" chipped again by locals, and miraculously never got upgraded. Carnage being the obvious case. And I think from what I can tell the obviously chipped crimp on carnage (that you get with RH, first move to it) is chipped like that because the hold there previously broke. Not sure where I heard that, might be on the Real Thing dvd commentary. Basically I think there is a local precedent for this type of thing.

[lagerstarfish]

Mr Ed must be turning in his grave (or maybe just laughing at the idiots)

[Fiend]

Isn't Lepreux direct an utterly gash nano-eliminate bad beta variation for a classic easy problem, that anyone in their right mind would walk straight past if it was at Minus Ten, let alone in Font....or am I thinking of something else??

[dave]

It's next to an easy problem if that's what you mean.

[rodma]

Isn't Lepreux direct an utterly gash nano-eliminate bad beta variation for a classic easy problem, that anyone in their right mind would walk straight past if it was at Minus Ten, let alone in Font....or am I thinking of something else??

As Dave said.

You use totally different handholds.

[tommytwotone]

Off to La Foret for a long weekend next weekend - getting there Thurs eve (sadly a bit too late to get out) but will have Fri, Sat and a bit of Sun to climb.


Friday's earmarked for Franchard as my mate wants to end his multi-visit siege of Surplomb De La Statique and I am keen for a few things at Cuisiniere


Was considering Roche Aux Oiseaux for Sat - anyone been?


This was my main motivation: [size=78%]https://bleau.info/oiseaux/8926.html[/size]


But I'll be there with one person who is operating in the 5/6 zone and one who is probably mid 6s. Is there stuff around those grades? Just don't want to drag them all the way there so I can fail on Brazil!