[Will Hunt]

Another Font recommendations thread for you all. The main battle for me in a week's trip is going to start on Day 2 - skin management and fatigue. Does anybody have any recommendations in this grade range which won't shred my tips? Crimps are fine providing they aren't sharp.

I have plenty of unfinished business which should fit the bill from the last disastrous trip in the form of:

l'Angle Ben's (I think I dropped the move from the top crimp to the top at least twice?)
El Poussif (Dune)
La Baleine
L'Oeuf
Onde de Choc

And since I have only been once before and basically got up nothing then please feel free to point me in the direction of The Classics. In that vein, these all look good:

Graviton
L'Helicoptere
Le Toit du Cul de Chien
Le Coeur
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame

I will group them up by crag and it would be good to have plenty of suggestions so I can pick targets based on conditions/aspect etc.

[rodma]

if you want to save skin, don't pick projects with knacky deadpoint moves

other than that i have no advices

[Will Hunt]

if you want to save skin, don't pick projects with knacky deadpoint moves

other than that i have no advices

Bon. Is there a problem on that list in particular that involves such a horror?

[rodma]

La Baleine
L'Helicoptere
your description of your performance on Ben's
Graviton can be a bit slappy depending on top out method

of course that should be caveated with nothing involves a tricky deadpoint if you find it easy, but any problem where you find you're failing due to ripping off, or inaccuracy in latching something are the one's that you should try and limit your attempts on. there is no real list that would cover everyone

[galpinos]

 You don't appear to have Duroxmanie in your classics list?

[SA Chris]

Is that Dave Riley? I recognise those sweatbands.

[galpinos]

Is that Dave Riley? I recognise those sweatbands.

Random picture off the interent (mistymountainhop blog). I thought it best represented Will's physique.....

Edit: I think you're right, http://www.mistymountainhop.net/

[SA Chris]

Yeah, that's Dave's. The Bawbags (scottish made undies) are another clue. How random.

[dave]

Duroxmanie
and the nearby Festin De Pierre (looks crimpy but the gratons at the top are huge and smooth)

Wouldn't bother with helicoptre for the legbreaking potential alone. Abbatoir is a better option.
Araignee at cuvier is worth a look if you're not a midget.
Joker at cuvier is an otherwise overrated chipped problem redeemed by not being especially skinbad.
Holey Moley if it's cool.

Surplomb De Cocquille, out the back of Isatis
Lapin Ou Canard, ditto
El Poussah should be OK on skin, esp if you go the toehook beta as you can't actually make a hand movement unless you're about to do the problem

Beatle Juice at Cuisiniere

Pancras and the pocket one at Mont Pivot

Chasseur de Prises at Canon

Tentation at 95.2

La Coeur is a potential skintrasher unless you get it done quickly. The top left side of the heart hold is quite chewy.

[nai]

Graviton
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame

I will group them up by crag and it would be good to have plenty of suggestions so I can pick targets based on conditions/aspect etc.

Must have been to Sabot 20 times and never knew that one at the bottom existed. Within 5m of that you have L'Oblique and Jeu du Toit which are probably better (i.e. not a daft jump I'm unlikely to succeed on.) and from memory are skin friendly. Oh plus the arete just L of Graviton.  But the two behind it, Achille Talon and Jus D'Orange, are both skin chewers

Possibly Excalibur to go with Dave's suggestion at Cuisiniere.

Might be obvious but planning to be at certain problems while they're in shade (or waiting til they are) will save your skin and increase chances of quick success

[Richie Crouch]

Le magnifique @ cuisiniere was really good I thought. You should find it quite easy lad!

[dave]

Isn't magnifique on sharp grattons?

[Richie Crouch]

It probably does as my memory is a bit hazy. I just recall nice sloping pockets near the lip before the spicy top out.

[roddersm]

La Voie Michaud at Elephant?

[cofe]

Rababoum.

[Wood FT]

Rababoum.

+1, so good

[lagerstarfish]

Egoiste at Appremont doesn't eat skin

Clin de l'Oeil just accross the path from it can be lank-lurched. I don't remember losing skin, but could be wrong about it

[cha1n]

Wouldn't bother with helicoptre for the legbreaking potential alone. Abbatoir is a better option.

This^. I think general advice is appropriate, like don't keep trying the same move over and over. Avoid jumps to slopers (suppose Baleine can be like that but just go big first time and it's OK!). None of those sharp crimps. Just be sensible and think big picture (like you have a whole week to climb), rather than thrash at one problem.

Climbing easy stuff with taped fingers for warming up/active rest days can work but make you look silly. I used to take a portable wooden board to warm up on rather than loose skin, fairly extreme measures though. Enjoy, hope I manage to get back out this month...

[Wood FT]

Egoiste at Appremont doesn't eat skin

Clin de l'Oeil just accross the path from it can be lank-lurched. I don't remember losing skin, but could be wrong about it

I remember a bunch of folk slapping about slopers on this. I lost skin on Egoiste but it wasn't from my hands.

[Will Hunt]

Brilliant suggestions so far everyone (Rababoum in particular looks incredible), and thank you for the advice.
I'm targeting this grade range because I am hoping it will allow me to climb fun problems that are tricky, but not completely waste me, so that I can get up and do the same the next day. As a rule of thumb I'm thinking to try two 7s per day and spend the rest of the time sampling the delights of the easier problems.

I flashed Egoiste 
It was the first problem we tried after a rest day and it was in the morning shade. That about sums up the importance of pacing and tactics for me!

[andy_e]

Le Lepreux Direct? I remember it all being skin-friendly slopers, but that was over five years ago now...

[dave]

Le Lepreux Direct? I remember it all being skin-friendly slopers, but that was over five years ago now...

Yeah skin friendly, just a shame it's a shadow of its former self. Went on it 18months ago, the staring undercut is much worse due to breakage, making first move the crux by far, and the top moves felt much easier than they used to, holds much bigger feeling. Feels like the start broke so someone chipped/improved the top slopers to compensate and keep the overall grade the same.

[Will Hunt]

Le Lepreux Direct? I remember it all being skin-friendly slopers, but that was over five years ago now...

...Feels like the start broke so someone chipped/improved the top slopers to compensate and keep the overall grade the same.

 

[andy_e]

Damn, I thought the slopers were the nice bit!

[Mike Tyson]

When are you headed to Font Will?