[csl]

STG
Rehab Finger - its certainly improving  Ice and massage twice daily.
Be able to climb in Siurana - 10th March.

MTG - June
Go to Ceuse fit and strong, and climb Privilege du Serpent

LTG - End of Year
8a

Wed - Arch Building One.  extensive warmup with a spiky finger massager and heeding the advice from last week meant I had an ok session. 3 finger dragging small holds was fairly pain free and I managed a few of the V3-5 circuit and one of the V4-6 circuit. Little pain during or after.

Friday - Arch Building One. Did a few of the new V3-5 circuit with limited pain. Did some less than body weight fingerboarding to get a feel for what hurts. And finished off with some Core, Offset Pullups and Pressups.

Saturday - Biscuit Factory. Should have resisted going - too much volume is not a good idea. As a result my finger started hurting after a few problems and i sacked it off.

Good week, glad finger is starting to improve, just need to keep volume low till Spain. I won't be getting up much as i can't train, but at least i should be able to climb some things!

[the_dom]

STG: Octopussy and Supernova on my bachelors party trip to Magic Wood

Mon: Bouldering after work. Decent 90 min session. Awakened repeatedly throughout the night by a very sore shoulder.
Tues: Seriously worried that now seemingly-damaged rotator cuff will impede Magic Wood bachelor party plans in June. Trail run.
Wed: Physio informs me that damage isn't bad but that climbing and surfing are forbidden for two weeks. Short hangboard session
(not forbidden) to (successfully) test that theory.
Thurs: Trail run
Fri: Short hangboard session
Sat: Deadlifts (also not forbidden) and hangboard
Sun: Hangboard and hike in the forest.

All in all, bummed at getting slightly injured, but glad it seems to be minor. Time to commence training for the STGs.

[tomtom]

M: work

Tu: work

We: Work AM > Off to Curbar in the afternoon on the way back to Manchester. Had Bad Lip firmly in my sights - having snatched failure last week.. warmed up on the prow(y) boulder then sent if first attempt Then got stuck into the 7B that traverses right into it and up (forgotten the name!) - quickly got the first moves wired - then got stumped on the move to bring my right heel further along to allow the moves for bad lip to happen. Lost large amounts of skin on forearms and ankles. Felt beaten...

Burger and pint in the evening...

Th: Lovely conditions again - so back to Curbar to try the 7B again. Ach, its hard... taped my thermal top around my right wrist to stop chaffage and sock on the left foot to prevent any more ankle damage. There are two ways to do the move - toe around the corner then move heel around - or cut loose. Neither seemed to work - though by the end of the session the toe method was very close to working - with some different body position beta to get the toe on... Ran out of core/arms/skin - wandered down to Great White to have a pull on...
I've decided I really like the bad landing boulder at Curbar... not many people go there - but its pleasant in the sun - and you can see people bimbling around on trackside and GW block but no-one ever seems to come up (maybe I smelt!)... Although I didnt do it - I had a really great day...

Fri: Beasted. MrsTT treated me to a steak at a local restaurant! \o/

Sa: Ysgo Ysgo Ysgo!! Grubes (of this parish) came over about 9am - and we headed off to Porth Ysgo for Fatnecks 40th/Ysgo bash.. Got there about 12 - and there were already c.20 folk there.

Superb day - clear - warm, but rock was cool. Tide was going out so more problems came in as the day went on... Ysgo is a bit of a nemesis crag for me - I always get spanked and don't climb to the grade I can there... But having 4-5 hours to fill, there was no rush - and with 20+ folks loads of pads... Highlights included: Perrins crack SS (V6/7) that included an opening hand pumped finish.. Brian Spray (V5) - I do hope someone has a film of my appalling first attempt! and I conspired to screw up the end of Seaspray (I think?) V7 arete two or three times, before discovering an easier end sequence and then being too trashed to do the start!

Chips, Beer, more beer - great. Fantastic day - great to meet some friends I'd not seen for a while - and also to meet a whole bunch of UKB'ers I'd not met before (wave)... Fantastic vibe - great crack - superb spot and climbing.

Su: Sadly had to be back in the morning - so left early back to Manchester.... Others looked like they were heading for another mint day at Talfrach (if anyone had any skin left!).

Great week - some frustration but a superb day at Ysgo... brilliant.

[36chambers]

Glad the spiky massager is helping csl.

STG: Spring cleaning (things I should have done already)
MTG: Yorkshire classics (Zoo York)
LTG: 8B

M:
T: Caley, first proper session on Zoo York 8a. The holds were better than I remembered and I figured out and did all but one (felt too committing above two pads) of the moves (sans top out). Until recently I thought this problem would always remain a distant dream, so I'm happy to find out it's not impossible.   
W: Almscliff. I was genuinely done with DWR, however the other half wanted to try the crucifix traverse, so I had a potter on Exorcist 8a (the longer version), and I finally found a sequence! and it's excellent! and it could be a goer! Didn't try to link it, but it looks like I'm not quite done with this roof just yet  
T:
F:
S: Brimham. Had a look at The Fonze 8a, managed all the moves (just about), but didn't make much progress with linking them. Asked my gf to film me to see if I could tell what I was doing wrong...

S: Caley. Exhausted so just did some 6's. Glorious day.

Feeling battered and have some seriously thin skin. But when the weather has been this good you can't say no.

[shurt]

Stg: get fit for Spain
Mtg: 7b+ sport, E4, f7a+
Ltg: 8a sport

m - tired from wend
t - still feeling spent
w - 3 sets of PE failed on last PU
t - long work day very physical
f - parental visit
s - ditto
s - partial ditto - 3 sets of PE again failing on last pull up, felt toasted

been frustrating to not get out and looking like I'm not going to get out before Spain trip but am getting really excited about going now. Training feels like its going well, I've never been able to do the sets of what I'm doing before so interested to see how it all translates to routes outside. I've been madly sandpapering my tips to try and build up skin. It works really well. Anyone ever tried it?

[Muenchener]

STG (Easter): under 80kg. This week's average 82.7. Kochel 6C trav project.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

In which doing PE training indoors on plastic makes my hands sore.

M: Bike one hour
   Shoulder mobility / prehab half an hour 
T: Boulderwelt PE session. Actually managed, by cunningly going very late, to get the circuit boards to myself. Was thus able to apply SCIENCE in the form of three sets of 20/10s.

W: To the doc with an aching shoulder. Suspected impingement. Goodbye weighted pull ups, hello more pec stretching & rotator cuff work. MRI appointment in two weeks.

T: Boulderwelt. Was with M jnr and earlier than Tuesday, so no stopwatch SCIENCE. Did up-down-up links on boulders instead and managed to successfully get quite tired.
F: Bike one hour
S: Weather forecast was good, and I had planned to go an have a look at my boulder proj in Kochel. But checked the webcam and it was foggy - fair bit of new snow during the week, now evaporating - so decided to save the petrol and went to the wall instead. :-(
   So ... Boulderwelt. Half a dozen goes on harder circuit projects, then two rounds of 20/10s. Skin was the main limiting factor stopping me doing more 20/10s.
S: Shoulder mobility / rotators. KB swings.

[ashtond6]

Better week, enjoying the good weather and had my first ever trip to malham!

M - rest

T - rest and antags

W - burbage- Warmed up on some 6Bs, then I fell off a flash attempt on nosferatu after 'most' of the hard climbing. Bottled it. Really pleased to even attempt the flash though. Didn't fancy getting back on so I did the 7A next to it and mad llechtim (the very good 6C slab by life assurance)

T -  awesome walls, 8 routes from 6a to 6c onsight, then did some fall practise as I'm terrified

F - went for a walk at stanage

S - walk and bouldering at burbage, nothing hard except classic arête 6C

S - first trip to malham!!! It was roasting, t shirt and shorts weather. I did Frankenstein after touching the chain on my 1st, 2nd and 3rd attempts! Then tried rose coronary, really close but beat from the weekend. Probably would have done it if I'd held the chain on Frankenstein earlier...

Pleased with my first sport day of the year,  especially since it's a new crag 

[kelvin]

S - first trip to malham!!! It was roasting, t shirt and shorts weather.

Ideal prep for Suirana then... snow abounds. Even woke up to snow on the hill above Sella on Sunday. Bring the downie and see you in a couple of weeks.

[duncan]

STG: rehab. finger
MTG: tbc according to finger recovery
LTG: the usual LH+F.

M - Hip routine - squats, step-ups etc.
T - Westway: 5 x 3 routes to 6a with buddy-tape.
T - Shoulder routine, dips, biceps etc.
W - 
T - 
F - 
S - Westway: 7 x 3 routes to 6a+ with buddy-tape.
S - Shoulder routine, dips, biceps etc.

Took a couple of weeks off after power club 208 due to finger setback. Too much, too soon. Finger still looks a bit wonky with a solid lump on the side of the PIP joint but is nearly pain-free in everyday life now. Now pretty good on big comfortable holds and now feel like I’m training (AeroCap) a bit as well as rehab.ing. The big question is when and how I can start pulling a bit harder, this is my first proper finger injury so it's all new to me. Still aiming for 3 months, ie mid-March, before climbing outside again. Booked Pembroke this Easter and Switzerland again with AJM in August; keen for Fairhead for the meet in early June if anyone is interested.

[Wood FT]

mon - works circuit board. Brown 7c in several sections, enjoy the big moves but will probably just work on the laps of the yellow 7b+ as it's more crimpy and applicable to targets in terms of intensity.
tue - foundry, 8 routes up to 6c, easy sesh with girlfriend but also did the L3 wasp up the middle of the wave which I found quite powerful on first acquaintance. 
wed - awesome walls, 7 routes 6b+ - 6c+, read the routes well which was satisfying. finished with a "6b+" overhanging corner that nearly ended me, so good and so hard.
thu - felt a bit tired so held back from a foundry visit.
fri - drive to wedding
sat - be at wedding
sun - don't chunder.

Really excited for Siurana which is just under 3 weeks away, haven't been since 2013. As ever I haven't been training as such just climbing a bit more but feel on good form, a few kg drop before then would be beneficial as I'm currently still a relative chunk.

[Nibile]

STG - board projects.

Mon - board climbing. Three excellent goes on hard project, then skin gave up. Protocol 4 finisher x2 with: front lever pulls, broad jumps, rings L-sit, mirror boxing. Hard.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing. Brutally strong. Did project. Tried circuit, fell on 23. Not bad after more than one year.
Thu - tried to repeat project, fell on first move. Front lever pulls, proper way (slight posterior pelvic tilt); rings. Climbing class. Tiring.
Fri - rest.
Sat - board climbing. Mega. Repeated project, big margin. Big progress on other projetc. Heavy heavy session.
Sun - 5 repeaters. 1 poor go on circuit. Fell on 21. Tired, forearms like bricks. Protocol 4 x2. Nice.

This was climbing only week, no weights. All in all good week. Tired because of lots of work and less sleep, but brutal on the board. Great great moment. So satisfying.

[Schnell]

Back in the game since latest finger injury

STG. be reasonably fit for Font in April. Tick as many low 7s as possible from a long list of roofy, slopery problems (not a crimp in sight).
MTG. increase fitness for summer route season

M. indoors. bit of bouldering plus finger rehab (less than body weight crimping) and repeaters on BM 35 slopers
T. aerocap on fingerboard.
W. gym. deadlifts, bench and rows
T. indoors. not exactly full of beans but got in decent PE session of foot on campusing. 35 sec on, 25 off x 10. hope to improve from this pretty poor base between now and sport climbing trip in june.
F.
S. outdoor bouldering. repeated a soft 7A, various 6s and then tried a 7C slab/wall. either not enough sloper strength, core tension or bad footwork, either way I'm plopping off at same point every go, but still not absolute miles off and 7C is hard for me.
S. barely got out of bed.

[nai]

Goal- spring crushage

M - AM - garage - 30 minutes bouldering, AnCap
     PM - Works - LI AeroCap
     Eve - core

T - AM - weighted pullups. AeroPow Foot on Campussing
     PM - HI AeroCap

w rest

Th  - Foundry AeroPow, best effort at this session yet, back to back 7a routes then over to the Wave to do a couple of L2s.

F - hard boulders in garage then to Burbage South to try Iain's Roof.  Have been to look at this a few times over the years but never found it in condition, kind of became a nemesis without ever managing to try it.  Well worth the wait, it would be a classic at the grade if it weren't squeezed in between blocks, scrittley, eliminate, hardly ever in nick and with a not-ideal landing.  Brilliant moves though, can't think of another 7a roof with moves as good.

S rest

S tried to get going but just couldn't. Been a month since I had consecutive rest days though so probably needed.

Weight a bit disappointing, 58.2kg this morning after hitting a low of 57.5 in the week, so only .4kg down on the week.  Always seem a bit high first thing Monday though, perhaps the Roast dinner still weighing-in.

[Wood FT]

Weight a bit disappointing, 58.2kg this morning after hitting a low of 57.5 in the week, so only .4kg down on the week.  Always seem a bit high first thing Monday though, perhaps the Roast dinner still weighing-in.

How tall are you Nai if you don't mind me asking?

[ashtond6]

S - first trip to malham!!! It was roasting, t shirt and shorts weather.

Looking forward to seeing you man!
Ideal prep for Suirana then... snow abounds. Even woke up to snow on the hill above Sella on Sunday. Bring the downie and see you in a couple of weeks.

[SA Chris]

M- Weights
T - Core
W - wall session. Arrived late, held up at work doing something which turned out to be a wast of time, OK session, managed 2 probs on 45 deg board I was failing on last week.
T - can't remember - probably nothing
F - wall session. Still got sore skin from Wednesday, but still had an OK session.
S - Swimming cancelled. Park in Afternoon with kids, cracking day.
S - all planned for skiing, but 2 ill family members so didn't happen. Brief Boltsheugh session, glorious sunshine, rock warm, but still cold and greasy in breaks. Managed the Flying Arete as highlight. Nice to be out on the sun though. Beach afternoon.

[filz]

M - fb max hangs. finishers with weights
T - board climbing 1 hour. Tried some hard problems. Tired.
W - same as Monday. fb and finishers
T - body weight and rings before work: ring planks, L-sits, tuck planche, tuck front lever pull ups, front lever progression
F - more fb before work. In the evening some system training
S - nothing
S - board climbing. Great session. Felt strong on some problems were I barely could do the single moves.

Good training week. The change in my finger boarding routing from a few weeks ago seems to work quite well.

[Schnell]

F - hard boulders in garage then to Burbage South to try Iain's Roof.  Have been to look at this a few times over the years but never found it in condition, kind of became a nemesis without ever managing to try it.  Well worth the wait, it would be a classic at the grade if it weren't squeezed in between blocks, scrittley, eliminate, hardly ever in nick and with a not-ideal landing.  Brilliant moves though, can't think of another 7a roof with moves as good.

Too right, this is a great problem. I stumbled across it one day without knowing what it was but had to try it because it looked great. Pity about the landing as you say.

[nai]

Weight a bit disappointing, 58.2kg this morning after hitting a low of 57.5 in the week, so only .4kg down on the week.  Always seem a bit high first thing Monday though, perhaps the Roast dinner still weighing-in.

How tall are you Nai if you don't mind me asking?

5' 6".

And if you don't mind me asking, are you in Siurana WC 19th?

[Nibile]

The change in my finger boarding routing from a few weeks ago seems to work quite well.

What change?

[Dolly]

M Bodyweight HIT then Pilates
T Wave lunchtime, but I was weak and not fully recovered from whatever bug I had the week before.
W Bodyweight HIT. Still tired.
T Wave lunchtime. Did one level 3 but managed to do something to my thigh so had to stop - hopefully just a pulled muscle. Gym in the evening trying to do a kettlebell/press up HIT routine. Found it nails.
F Battered from the press ups and the Kettlebells the night before. Beastmaker at lunchtime
S. Short run in the morning, but not far as my thigh hurt from Thursday. Bodyweight HIT in the evening
S. Weights. Tried hard. Still feel tired now.


I think I was still recovering from the previous week TBH. Hopefully more climbing this week

[Wood FT]

Weight a bit disappointing, 58.2kg this morning after hitting a low of 57.5 in the week, so only .4kg down on the week.  Always seem a bit high first thing Monday though, perhaps the Roast dinner still weighing-in.

How tall are you Nai if you don't mind me asking?

5' 6".

  I'm such a fat bastard

And if you don't mind me asking, are you in Siurana WC 19th?

yes to the 27th, staying in Cornudella, are you as well? seems like there's quite a good chunk of ukb there around then.

[ashtond6]

yes to the 27th, staying in Cornudella, are you as well? seems like there's quite a good chunk of ukb there around then.

Myself, Kelvin & another friend staying there 22/3 - 4/4 too 
ridic excited

[filz]

The change in my finger boarding routing from a few weeks ago seems to work quite well.

What change?

Basically I've added more weight going back to bigger holds, I removed middle 2 and front 2 hangs, and changed them with front 3 and back 3.

Right now I'm doing 5-8" hangs with 1' rest:
- 3-4x one arm hangs on 4 removing a couple of kg
- 3x back 3 with 10 kg on 5 and reducing the depth with 4 mm wood blocks. The hardest prehension for me.
- 2-3x full crimp with 10 kg on 10
- 3x front 3 with 14 kg on 5 removing 12 mm depth
- slopers when I have time and the skin is good enough

In the previous training middle 2 and front 2 hangs were very inconsistent. Some days I could do them easily for 7-8", other days with the same added weight I was not able to lift my feet from the ground 

[Nibile]

 

[cheque]

STG- 7s (at this point I'd settle for 6C)/ Extremes on grit this season.

MTG- 7b/+ in 2016 is the ideal- may have to settle for "finish film without slipping further into punterdom" though.

LTG- 8a

M Rest.
 
Tu Notts Depot. Feeling weak and rubbish. No new problems had been set in my grade range so tried repeating hard ones I'd done before and crimpy ones I hadn't.

W Rest. Didn't feel like I'd done much the previous day but seriously sore forearms.

Th Notts Depot. Circuit board- Jesus Christ I've lost fitness. Had to work 6b before doing it, then could only get 50% of the way round the 6c.

F Rest.

Sa Millstone/ Mother Cap. Major breakthrough on Technical Master- I can now get to the flatty every time! Chickened out of the topout though, then the wind changed, Millstone was completely still and the top felt confidence-sappingly greasy every time I got there. Pretty psyched to suddenly be able to climb this problem though. Got on Conan after- fell hitting sloping rubbish at the top a number of times (could get up there every time), checked the top and saw the hold but realised I was about to go through my tips as I scrambled down. Settled for encouraging mate up it- as he's moving to Australia the same time weekend I move to Sheffield this seemed like the priority! He did both this and Technical Master but, when we drove to Higgar at the end of the day, had a meltdown on The Big Slab. Who could leave this kind of fun?

Su Roaches. Glorious weather, awesome conditions. Did loads of easy stuff at the Far Skyline, took photos of routes at Skyline, tried hard powerful problem I'm not strong enough for (Too Drunk), did easy stuff at Attic boulders (just when I think I've been everywhere at the Roaches I find more!) then finished off not doing powerful stuff at Upper Tier. 

More fun being rubbish.

[T_B]

84.3Kg

M - F/Board 2 x 6 x 7 front 3, 1 x 6 x 7 half crimp on Metolius. R hand 8 secs on #14 with 7.5Kgs off. L much weaker (10Kg in #5 for 8 secs). Finished with 10secs no added weight middle 2 on #12 (first time on this since pulley strain).
T - School - lunch. Light session. Did 3 sections of the pink circuit, including the starting crux. Not so good on 50deg. Overall finger sore but felt stronger and felt like I could claw in with fingers generally. P.M. Rings with Mrs T_B & MIA.
W - School early P.M. right wrist tweaky, so had to be careful as couldn't undercut. Linked some sections of the pink circ. Tried white tagged wood up problem on the right, slapping finishing hold.
T - Wrist sore : (
F - F/Board 2 x 6 x 7 front 3, failed on 3 trying back 3. 1 x 6 x 7 half crimp on Metolius with 10Kg added. R hand 5 secs on #14 with 5Kg off, l hand 5 secs on #10 with 5Kg off. 1 x 6 x 7 middle two #7 but hurt, failed on 3 trying front 2 in #7 due to split. 1 x 10secs middle 2 #12. 2 x 10 pull ups and some front lever attempts.
S - P.M. Headtorch run Owler/Higgar/Apparent N/Burbage Edges/Longshaw 10.8Km, 238m. Mistake running Burbage Edges at night at the mo - tough.
S - P.M. Left hand Plantation. Wrist definitely caused by Brad Pit, tried it once to confirm. Did 10 problems mostly around 6c with a "guy that put some wood in a crack", and had a look at Silk Sitter. Great to do some mileage, on a beautiful late afternoon/evening.

2 weeks til CWIF, 4 weeks til Font, 20 weeks til Peru. Climbing training plan gone to sh*t, but running has re-ignited my love of the Peak. Even at night by headtorch 

[Wood FT]

Did 10 problems mostly around 6c with a "guy that put some wood in a crack",

Ron Jeremy?

[Falling Down]

A great week making more progress back to previous form.  With Fatneck's birthday bash coming up I thought I'd better ditch the rope and get on with some bouldering as I was anxious about whether I'd even be able to do any "easy" problems.

S - Westway bouldering.  Felt quite light on the warmup traverse.  8 problems up to V3 feeling pretty good. Flashed four V3's on different angles and flashed a white V3/4 coming out of the steep section.  Tried a Black V4 on the steep bit in the fridge and struggled to complete some of the moves in isolation.

M - Westway bouldering.  Felt battered after yesterday, couldn't finish some of the Pink warm ups in the fridge so top roped some routes up to 6a+ instead to get the blood flowing

T/W - Super sore so worked and rested.

T - Still feeling a bit sore. Had a great session, ended up doing the problem I'd tried on Monday first go; flashed another Black in the fridge and did another tricky one in two overlapping sections.  Finished with some hangs on the board which now feel OK rather than something dangerous to the body.

F - Train up to Runcorn to meet Andy and drive to Abersoch and drink beer and chew the fat with Adam, Jim and Jon.

S - A leisurely start after a fab breakfast from resident chef Jim.  Wandered down to Ysgo feeling really quite anxious about the climbing but enjoying the company of the team, soaking in the amazing surroundings and looking forward to meeting Si and the others gathered for the weekend.  I had a really great day and my anxiety was misplaced.  It was all still there and managed the whole day pacing myself & not getting on anything too hard.  A really rewarding day out, loving the climbing, catching up with old friends, putting faces to names from here and getting to know some great people I'd not met before followed by a long evening bulling in the pub and whisky before bed.

S - A bit hungover... Two breakfasts thanks to Jim's mouthwatering bacon butty skills and then waffles and coffee in Abersoch with two of my best friends and Adam.  We walked down to Talfarach late'ish as some of the scouse team were leaving.  What a place... a crazy jumble of Giants' D&D dice all piled atop one another.  You need a spot on the approach to some of the problems.  I couldn't face the spicy arête as a first problem so pootled about on some easy problems with flattish landings.  Si took us over to the Ministry of Silly Hats which went second try (it gets 6c+ but it's not); then a brilliant undercut arête problem after a few tries that should've gone first go but I kept stepping off for fear of falling higher up and then another brilliant monkey on a pole layback thing and a few tries at the slab to the L of Ministry before packing up and heading out. Watching the team climb well; Choughs wheeling overhead; big Ravens nests on the cliffs above; sunshine and shiny sea; views across to Cilan.  A joyful day topped off with amazing views of Snowdonia frosted with snow in the sunset and a huge murmuration over the A55 near Conway.  Brilliant....

Siurana in ten days so back to some fitness indoors on the ropes.  Very excited to be climbing again.

[Hugh]

STG: 7B. More grit sessions.
MTG: Don't get broken.

Mon: Very quick 4x4s session at TCA. Booked flights to Spain for Santa Gadea in June! 
Tue: Max hangs (14kg 16mm 10s).
Wed: TCA, Woody. Long explosive moves.
Thu: Nowt.
Fri: TCA again, did some from the 6c-7b circuit. Knackered.
Sat: 4.5km run.
Sun: Neath Abbey bouldering. Great day out, ticked a 7A in a few goes (with an excess of burl and minimal technique), did a sweet 6A slab, ran out of juice to do a rather nice 7B (Techtonics). Next time...

Ok week, feeling pretty drained though; rest required for a few days. Nice to get out at the weekend.

I've been madly sandpapering my tips to try and build up skin. It works really well. Anyone ever tried it?

Yep, do this all the time otherwise I get bloody horrible splits. Does the business.

[Duma]

Sun: Neath Abbey bouldering. did a sweet 6A slab...

Perfect slab? brilliant isn't it?

[petejh]

A great week making more progress back to previous form.  With Fatneck's birthday bash coming up I thought I'd better ditch the rope and get on with some bouldering as I was anxious about whether I'd even be able to do any "easy" problems.

S - Westway bouldering.  Felt quite light on the warmup traverse.  8 problems up to V3 feeling pretty good. Flashed four V3's on different angles and flashed a white V3/4 coming out of the steep section.  Tried a Black V4 on the steep bit in the fridge and struggled to complete some of the moves in isolation.

M - Westway bouldering.  Felt battered after yesterday, couldn't finish some of the Pink warm ups in the fridge so top roped some routes up to 6a+ instead to get the blood flowing

T/W - Super sore so worked and rested.

T - Still feeling a bit sore. Had a great session, ended up doing the problem I'd tried on Monday first go; flashed another Black in the fridge and did another tricky one in two overlapping sections.  Finished with some hangs on the board which now feel OK rather than something dangerous to the body.

F - Train up to Runcorn to meet Andy and drive to Abersoch and drink beer and chew the fat with Adam, Jim and Jon.

S - A leisurely start after a fab breakfast from resident chef Jim.  Wandered down to Ysgo feeling really quite anxious about the climbing but enjoying the company of the team, soaking in the amazing surroundings and looking forward to meeting Si and the others gathered for the weekend.  I had a really great day and my anxiety was misplaced.  It was all still there and managed the whole day pacing myself & not getting on anything too hard.  A really rewarding day out, loving the climbing, catching up with old friends, putting faces to names from here and getting to know some great people I'd not met before followed by a long evening bulling in the pub and whisky before bed.

S - A bit hungover... Two breakfasts thanks to Jim's mouthwatering bacon butty skills and then waffles and coffee in Abersoch with two of my best friends and Adam.  We walked down to Talfarach late'ish as some of the scouse team were leaving.  What a place... a crazy jumble of Giants' D&D dice all piled atop one another.  You need a spot on the approach to some of the problems.  I couldn't face the spicy arête as a first problem so pootled about on some easy problems with flattish landings.  Si took us over to the Ministry of Silly Hats which went second try (it gets 6c+ but it's not); then a brilliant undercut arête problem after a few tries that should've gone first go but I kept stepping off for fear of falling higher up and then another brilliant monkey on a pole layback thing and a few tries at the slab to the L of Ministry before packing up and heading out. Watching the team climb well; Choughs wheeling overhead; big Ravens nests on the cliffs above; sunshine and shiny sea; views across to Cilan.  A joyful day topped off with amazing views of Snowdonia frosted with snow in the sunset and a huge murmuration over the A55 near Conway.  Brilliant....

Siurana in ten days so back to some fitness indoors on the ropes.  Very excited to be climbing again.

A post that pretty much sums up what's great about climbing! 

[shark]

11.4-5

M.
T. AM eatswood with Nick C. Lovely day. Perfect temp. Reworked the crux of the Reverse but didnt come up with anything radically new. Few decent redpoints. At end Nick C went on ten Inch Zombies which I had previously swore never to try again. Nick played his lanky crimpmeister card to full effect and the fucker ended up doing it. I eventually found a sequence which might work, next time. Perhaps
W.
T. Noon. Systems board. Remarkably similar scores to Sunday so not in AeroPower zone yet. Threw in an extra go to at least have some difference. Was strong on the crusher crimps on the warm up though. PM. Was expecting it to be sunny all day but it clouded over so nipped out to Burbage, Mint conditions but obviously a bit tired from lunchtime. 3 lads acame and went and the Keith C showed up I managed to hold the left slot once then muffed it going for intermediate pebble. Also worked top moves off stacked pads. Got a hole in pad of right index finger
F.
S. Foundry. Tommy was competing in the YCS. I met Ollie Torr there for a coaching session following on from my session with Tom Randall.
S. AM eatswood. Perfect conditions. A guy called Ben from Duffield showed up with a short pass out from nappy duty (glad that's behind me). Taped my index to help the hole heal but had some slippage on a crimp that ruined a couple of the redpoint attempts. Got a move further than Tuesday. Had a few goes at Ten Inch Zombies again and came close to touching tiny pebble below the finger jug. Not sure if this way is going to work though (left hand on big pebble, left heel on foot ledge, RH up to minging front two crimp on tiny black nobble , RF by left heel left foot high and rock and reach with view to get aforementioned tiny pebble with RF still on ledge then rocking again for finger jug tapping RF up). lso worked out less sketchy finishing move using hold in crack as a fingerlock rather than layaway       

For those that dont know Ollie works with Tom's new partner and specialises on strength advice. Ollie noted some movement inefficiency typically dropping my shoulder forward (particularly the left shoulder) when making moves which doesn't allow the rhomboid muscle between the shoulder blades to help with the move. This is a habitual movement pattern that Leah Crane also told me she had identified and started correcting through working with a movement coach. Its not surprising it is something that happens given the stoop many (most?) climbers develop and the tightness in the shoulder area from all the work that is concentrated there. He also had some interesting ideas on finger strength application related to shoulder stability. Anyway I now have a number of worksheets and videos for stretching, bar and rings exercises and an assisted one-arm deadhanging routine. Not sure how Im going to fit everything in mind given that there are only 7 days in the week and conditions outside are good. It has certainly made me self-conscious, in a good way, over the last few days.

[tomtom]

No Malham Shark? Heard its all dry there... (or was...)

[shark]

No Malham Shark? Heard its all dry there... (or was...)

Tomorrow. 

That hole in my finger which was mending nicely is now a nasty gash from trying Blind Date yesterday evening. I was trying to resist going but Keith kept texting me

[Hugh]

Sun: Neath Abbey bouldering. did a sweet 6A slab...

Perfect slab? brilliant isn't it?

That's the one. Lovely balancy sequence [emoji4]

[webbo]

Mon. Dumbbell workout then deadhanging extended hangs to 8 secs with 12 lbs added. 3 sets of repeaters to finish.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Same as Monday.
Thu. Actually went out twice lots of crutching around.
Fri. Shoulders really sore, so nothing.
Sat. Same as mon and wed, struggling a bit.
Sun. Nothing.

[fried]

M - Nothing
T - Indoors, gradually getting back to normal after January's holiday. Felt stronger than last week.
W - Rest
Th - Spent a long time trying a traverse on undercut slopers, all on the thumbs, didn't do it but had sore fingers for days.
Fr - Rest

Sa - First session outdoors on a beautiful fresh, clear day at Beauvais Nainville, didn't climb great as I expected, but did a fair few blues, got shut down on some others. Tried a few red problems that I'd tried last year at the same period and found that I'm climbing exactly the same.

Had a few goes  on this https://bleau.info/beauvais/6709.html and took a couple of unexpected flyers, I was impressed by my ability to land on my feet as I though I was heading for a bruising.

Su - Rest

I have a problem, with my wall opening a second centre it's too easy to get to, which means no BM sessions. At my level should I sacrifice an indoor session for a BM session or will I be better served just climbing ?

And any cream recommendation for glassy skin, I failed a long due to slipping off holds on Saturday.

[kelvin]

Sa - First session outdoors on a beautiful fresh, clear day at Beauvais Nainville

Had a few goes  on this https://bleau.info/beauvais/6709.html and took a couple of unexpected flyers, I was impressed by my ability to land on my feet as I though I was heading for a bruising.

Should be up in Font on April 10th for a month - ready with a spot should you need one. Get planning which project you need one for!

[abarro81]

Fried - go climb, is say at your level don't worry at all about sacrificing fingerboard for climbing!

[Mumra]

Fried - go climb, is say at your level don't worry at all about sacrificing fingerboard for climbing!

agreed

Also try using Elizabeth Arden to soften your skin before hand. Also licking you fingers works before attempts (see Ondra!)

[Muenchener]

Wot they said.

I'm a punter and I only do board sessions when I don't have time to get to the wall.

I actually enjoy fingerboarding though, which I suspect won't do me any harm on the long road to slightly less punterdom. Assuming I don't hurt myself.

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

In searching for projects mode atm.

M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. New stuff. Ticked all bar 3. Flashed all I did. Campus after.
W: Rest.
T: Night work.
F: Rest.
S: Black Cave. Small cave right on the water looking toward Manly. Warm up V4, V5 first go, fun V6 repeat, hard V4. Worked The Plunge V10. Finishes with committing backwards dyno. All moves bar dyno and I have hand over jug but just not committing to the swing yet. Should go when it cools down abit and abit of weight goes.
S: Bangor Blocs & The Villas. Just messed around at Bangor while mate started trying a V9/10 that he's keen on working. Villas, another mate working Savage V8. Glad I did that quickly. Jumped onto Paul's Present and Shoosh, both V10. Worked out most the moves on them bar the sketchy finish they share. Ones to come back to...


"Rest"... Did my level 2 this week. Very physical. But would still do front levers and sets of pull ups wearing full kit while waiting.

[fried]

Thanks everyone, I thought that was the case. I'll have a try with the Elizabeth Arden, I'm fed up spitting on my hands.

[fried]

Sa - First session outdoors on a beautiful fresh, clear day at Beauvais Nainville

Had a few goes  on this https://bleau.info/beauvais/6709.html and took a couple of unexpected flyers, I was impressed by my ability to land on my feet as I though I was heading for a bruising.

Should be up in Font on April 10th for a month - ready with a spot should you need one. Get planning which project you need one for!

Looking forward to it. Hope you'll be back on form then.

[Luke Owens]

I've been training hard (for me) since December now, feel like I've made great strength gains from all the board sessions but it's beginning to feel like when I'm outside although I'm stronger on 2 - 4 move problems anything longer than this feels like it's getting harder and harder I just don't have the energy for it. The 8 move problem I tried on Sunday I found the moves so easy in isolation or even linking 4 moves together felt fine, but as soon as try anything more I just power out.

Do I take it easy for a bit or just man up and crack on?

M: Lunch - Max Hangs - Half Crimp - ~20mm slightly incut smallest rock ring edge
Progressive Set:
10sec (0kg), 10sec (2.5kg), 10sec (5kg)
Main Set:
3 x 6sec (10kg)

T: Lunch - 3 x 10 Shoulder Rotations (5kg)
3 x 12 Bent over flys (5kg)
Stretches

W: Cave - Got to a high point (1 move further) on Left Wall (7 moves in). Felt stronger on the moves again and spent the last half an hour of the session repeatedly trying the moves where I fall off, got some good small beta changes too.

T: Lunch: 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)

Eve: Plas Power - 20 mins ARC traverse Warm-up

20' Board - 3 x 7A, 2 x 7A+ (All repeats)

45' Board - 6C+ and 7A (Both repeats). Came up with a new project to try.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Talfarach for Fatneck's 40th!

Leaning Wall - 6A+
Ministry of Silly Hats - 6C+ (repeat)
Bardsey Blues - 6C+
Cream Seam - 6B+ (repeat)

Then tried Brethren Court (7A+) again and fell on the 2nd to last move, i'm useless at doing more than 6 moves in a row lately, just completely lose all power.

Had a quick go on the 7A+ wall above the boulder field too before we left, felt hard with no energy or skin left. Did the left 5C arete.

Awesome day with ace weather! Think I may of met a few people that post on here?

[Footwork]

STG - don't eat/ buy sweets for a whole month. After visiting the haribo factory in Pontefract I feel this is an important goal

MTG - Keep stretching and rehabbing shoulder

LTG - As much highballing and trad climbing as allows

Monday - nothing
Tuesday - Went to Caley and did death drop 2000. Mint problem!
Wednesday - Shoulder rehab
Thursday - Shoulder rehab
Friday - drove up to Scotland in evening
Sat - amazing weather and climbing
Sun - exhausted but more amazing weather and climbing. Drove back to Leeds with a big smile on my face.

[SA Chris]

You certainly scored with the weather last weekend if you were in the hills. I was at home tending to sick family members

[Sasquatch]

STG - Prep new routes for upcoming season, continue training, 2 local boulder projects that may be winter doable - The Loony project(8a? stand, and 8b/+? sit) and the Rutted Project(8a+?ish)
MTG - 1 arm pull-up, 1-arm hang BM2K middle lower slot, Spotted Dick Project
LTG - To Bolt...

M - Rest
T - Planned on doing Mx Hangs, but sacked off after warmup.  fingers just not feeling right.  messed around a bit and tried a light campus workout.  Campusing felt good, so did a short campus session
W - rest
T - Moonboard session and 1-arm pullups -
F - Into local gym for a boulder session - 62 new problems up to 7B.  Fun session, but so wrecked by the end of it. 
S -  Family Day
S - Spent 14 hours traveling to Wisconsin(work trip), then drove 30 min to gym, climbed 48 problems up to 7B, then drove 1.5hrs to hotel. 

Not anything close to what I planned for the week, but I was craving loads of movement, hence the loads of problems. 

Felt pretty good to go to a different gym, start off feeling worked after an overnight travel with only 2 hours of sleep, and still be able to pull down reasonably well.  I think the local wall is getting more and more sandbagged...