[csl]

STG
Rehab Finger - its certainly improving  Ice and massage twice daily.
Be able to climb in Siurana - 10th March.

MTG - June
Go to Ceuse fit and strong, and climb Privilege du Serpent

LTG - End of Year
8a

Wed - Arch Building One.  extensive warmup with a spiky finger massager and heeding the advice from last week meant I had an ok session. 3 finger dragging small holds was fairly pain free and I managed a few of the V3-5 circuit and one of the V4-6 circuit. Little pain during or after.

Friday - Arch Building One. Did a few of the new V3-5 circuit with limited pain. Did some less than body weight fingerboarding to get a feel for what hurts. And finished off with some Core, Offset Pullups and Pressups.

Saturday - Biscuit Factory. Should have resisted going - too much volume is not a good idea. As a result my finger started hurting after a few problems and i sacked it off.

Good week, glad finger is starting to improve, just need to keep volume low till Spain. I won't be getting up much as i can't train, but at least i should be able to climb some things!

[the_dom]

STG: Octopussy and Supernova on my bachelors party trip to Magic Wood

Mon: Bouldering after work. Decent 90 min session. Awakened repeatedly throughout the night by a very sore shoulder.
Tues: Seriously worried that now seemingly-damaged rotator cuff will impede Magic Wood bachelor party plans in June. Trail run.
Wed: Physio informs me that damage isn't bad but that climbing and surfing are forbidden for two weeks. Short hangboard session
(not forbidden) to (successfully) test that theory.
Thurs: Trail run
Fri: Short hangboard session
Sat: Deadlifts (also not forbidden) and hangboard
Sun: Hangboard and hike in the forest.

All in all, bummed at getting slightly injured, but glad it seems to be minor. Time to commence training for the STGs.

[tomtom]

M: work

Tu: work

We: Work AM > Off to Curbar in the afternoon on the way back to Manchester. Had Bad Lip firmly in my sights - having snatched failure last week.. warmed up on the prow(y) boulder then sent if first attempt Then got stuck into the 7B that traverses right into it and up (forgotten the name!) - quickly got the first moves wired - then got stumped on the move to bring my right heel further along to allow the moves for bad lip to happen. Lost large amounts of skin on forearms and ankles. Felt beaten...

Burger and pint in the evening...

Th: Lovely conditions again - so back to Curbar to try the 7B again. Ach, its hard... taped my thermal top around my right wrist to stop chaffage and sock on the left foot to prevent any more ankle damage. There are two ways to do the move - toe around the corner then move heel around - or cut loose. Neither seemed to work - though by the end of the session the toe method was very close to working - with some different body position beta to get the toe on... Ran out of core/arms/skin - wandered down to Great White to have a pull on...
I've decided I really like the bad landing boulder at Curbar... not many people go there - but its pleasant in the sun - and you can see people bimbling around on trackside and GW block but no-one ever seems to come up (maybe I smelt!)... Although I didnt do it - I had a really great day...

Fri: Beasted. MrsTT treated me to a steak at a local restaurant! \o/

Sa: Ysgo Ysgo Ysgo!! Grubes (of this parish) came over about 9am - and we headed off to Porth Ysgo for Fatnecks 40th/Ysgo bash.. Got there about 12 - and there were already c.20 folk there.

Superb day - clear - warm, but rock was cool. Tide was going out so more problems came in as the day went on... Ysgo is a bit of a nemesis crag for me - I always get spanked and don't climb to the grade I can there... But having 4-5 hours to fill, there was no rush - and with 20+ folks loads of pads... Highlights included: Perrins crack SS (V6/7) that included an opening hand pumped finish.. Brian Spray (V5) - I do hope someone has a film of my appalling first attempt! and I conspired to screw up the end of Seaspray (I think?) V7 arete two or three times, before discovering an easier end sequence and then being too trashed to do the start!

Chips, Beer, more beer - great. Fantastic day - great to meet some friends I'd not seen for a while - and also to meet a whole bunch of UKB'ers I'd not met before (wave)... Fantastic vibe - great crack - superb spot and climbing.

Su: Sadly had to be back in the morning - so left early back to Manchester.... Others looked like they were heading for another mint day at Talfrach (if anyone had any skin left!).

Great week - some frustration but a superb day at Ysgo... brilliant.

[36chambers]

Glad the spiky massager is helping csl.

STG: Spring cleaning (things I should have done already)
MTG: Yorkshire classics (Zoo York)
LTG: 8B

M:
T: Caley, first proper session on Zoo York 8a. The holds were better than I remembered and I figured out and did all but one (felt too committing above two pads) of the moves (sans top out). Until recently I thought this problem would always remain a distant dream, so I'm happy to find out it's not impossible.   
W: Almscliff. I was genuinely done with DWR, however the other half wanted to try the crucifix traverse, so I had a potter on Exorcist 8a (the longer version), and I finally found a sequence! and it's excellent! and it could be a goer! Didn't try to link it, but it looks like I'm not quite done with this roof just yet  
T:
F:
S: Brimham. Had a look at The Fonze 8a, managed all the moves (just about), but didn't make much progress with linking them. Asked my gf to film me to see if I could tell what I was doing wrong...

S: Caley. Exhausted so just did some 6's. Glorious day.

Feeling battered and have some seriously thin skin. But when the weather has been this good you can't say no.

[shurt]

Stg: get fit for Spain
Mtg: 7b+ sport, E4, f7a+
Ltg: 8a sport

m - tired from wend
t - still feeling spent
w - 3 sets of PE failed on last PU
t - long work day very physical
f - parental visit
s - ditto
s - partial ditto - 3 sets of PE again failing on last pull up, felt toasted

been frustrating to not get out and looking like I'm not going to get out before Spain trip but am getting really excited about going now. Training feels like its going well, I've never been able to do the sets of what I'm doing before so interested to see how it all translates to routes outside. I've been madly sandpapering my tips to try and build up skin. It works really well. Anyone ever tried it?

[Muenchener]

STG (Easter): under 80kg. This week's average 82.7. Kochel 6C trav project.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

In which doing PE training indoors on plastic makes my hands sore.

M: Bike one hour
   Shoulder mobility / prehab half an hour 
T: Boulderwelt PE session. Actually managed, by cunningly going very late, to get the circuit boards to myself. Was thus able to apply SCIENCE in the form of three sets of 20/10s.

W: To the doc with an aching shoulder. Suspected impingement. Goodbye weighted pull ups, hello more pec stretching & rotator cuff work. MRI appointment in two weeks.

T: Boulderwelt. Was with M jnr and earlier than Tuesday, so no stopwatch SCIENCE. Did up-down-up links on boulders instead and managed to successfully get quite tired.
F: Bike one hour
S: Weather forecast was good, and I had planned to go an have a look at my boulder proj in Kochel. But checked the webcam and it was foggy - fair bit of new snow during the week, now evaporating - so decided to save the petrol and went to the wall instead. :-(
   So ... Boulderwelt. Half a dozen goes on harder circuit projects, then two rounds of 20/10s. Skin was the main limiting factor stopping me doing more 20/10s.
S: Shoulder mobility / rotators. KB swings.

[ashtond6]

Better week, enjoying the good weather and had my first ever trip to malham!

M - rest

T - rest and antags

W - burbage- Warmed up on some 6Bs, then I fell off a flash attempt on nosferatu after 'most' of the hard climbing. Bottled it. Really pleased to even attempt the flash though. Didn't fancy getting back on so I did the 7A next to it and mad llechtim (the very good 6C slab by life assurance)

T -  awesome walls, 8 routes from 6a to 6c onsight, then did some fall practise as I'm terrified

F - went for a walk at stanage

S - walk and bouldering at burbage, nothing hard except classic arête 6C

S - first trip to malham!!! It was roasting, t shirt and shorts weather. I did Frankenstein after touching the chain on my 1st, 2nd and 3rd attempts! Then tried rose coronary, really close but beat from the weekend. Probably would have done it if I'd held the chain on Frankenstein earlier...

Pleased with my first sport day of the year,  especially since it's a new crag 

[kelvin]

S - first trip to malham!!! It was roasting, t shirt and shorts weather.

Ideal prep for Suirana then... snow abounds. Even woke up to snow on the hill above Sella on Sunday. Bring the downie and see you in a couple of weeks.

[duncan]

STG: rehab. finger
MTG: tbc according to finger recovery
LTG: the usual LH+F.

M - Hip routine - squats, step-ups etc.
T - Westway: 5 x 3 routes to 6a with buddy-tape.
T - Shoulder routine, dips, biceps etc.
W - 
T - 
F - 
S - Westway: 7 x 3 routes to 6a+ with buddy-tape.
S - Shoulder routine, dips, biceps etc.

Took a couple of weeks off after power club 208 due to finger setback. Too much, too soon. Finger still looks a bit wonky with a solid lump on the side of the PIP joint but is nearly pain-free in everyday life now. Now pretty good on big comfortable holds and now feel like I’m training (AeroCap) a bit as well as rehab.ing. The big question is when and how I can start pulling a bit harder, this is my first proper finger injury so it's all new to me. Still aiming for 3 months, ie mid-March, before climbing outside again. Booked Pembroke this Easter and Switzerland again with AJM in August; keen for Fairhead for the meet in early June if anyone is interested.

[Wood FT]

mon - works circuit board. Brown 7c in several sections, enjoy the big moves but will probably just work on the laps of the yellow 7b+ as it's more crimpy and applicable to targets in terms of intensity.
tue - foundry, 8 routes up to 6c, easy sesh with girlfriend but also did the L3 wasp up the middle of the wave which I found quite powerful on first acquaintance. 
wed - awesome walls, 7 routes 6b+ - 6c+, read the routes well which was satisfying. finished with a "6b+" overhanging corner that nearly ended me, so good and so hard.
thu - felt a bit tired so held back from a foundry visit.
fri - drive to wedding
sat - be at wedding
sun - don't chunder.

Really excited for Siurana which is just under 3 weeks away, haven't been since 2013. As ever I haven't been training as such just climbing a bit more but feel on good form, a few kg drop before then would be beneficial as I'm currently still a relative chunk.

[Nibile]

STG - board projects.

Mon - board climbing. Three excellent goes on hard project, then skin gave up. Protocol 4 finisher x2 with: front lever pulls, broad jumps, rings L-sit, mirror boxing. Hard.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing. Brutally strong. Did project. Tried circuit, fell on 23. Not bad after more than one year.
Thu - tried to repeat project, fell on first move. Front lever pulls, proper way (slight posterior pelvic tilt); rings. Climbing class. Tiring.
Fri - rest.
Sat - board climbing. Mega. Repeated project, big margin. Big progress on other projetc. Heavy heavy session.
Sun - 5 repeaters. 1 poor go on circuit. Fell on 21. Tired, forearms like bricks. Protocol 4 x2. Nice.

This was climbing only week, no weights. All in all good week. Tired because of lots of work and less sleep, but brutal on the board. Great great moment. So satisfying.

[Schnell]

Back in the game since latest finger injury

STG. be reasonably fit for Font in April. Tick as many low 7s as possible from a long list of roofy, slopery problems (not a crimp in sight).
MTG. increase fitness for summer route season

M. indoors. bit of bouldering plus finger rehab (less than body weight crimping) and repeaters on BM 35 slopers
T. aerocap on fingerboard.
W. gym. deadlifts, bench and rows
T. indoors. not exactly full of beans but got in decent PE session of foot on campusing. 35 sec on, 25 off x 10. hope to improve from this pretty poor base between now and sport climbing trip in june.
F.
S. outdoor bouldering. repeated a soft 7A, various 6s and then tried a 7C slab/wall. either not enough sloper strength, core tension or bad footwork, either way I'm plopping off at same point every go, but still not absolute miles off and 7C is hard for me.
S. barely got out of bed.

[nai]

Goal- spring crushage

M - AM - garage - 30 minutes bouldering, AnCap
     PM - Works - LI AeroCap
     Eve - core

T - AM - weighted pullups. AeroPow Foot on Campussing
     PM - HI AeroCap

w rest

Th  - Foundry AeroPow, best effort at this session yet, back to back 7a routes then over to the Wave to do a couple of L2s.

F - hard boulders in garage then to Burbage South to try Iain's Roof.  Have been to look at this a few times over the years but never found it in condition, kind of became a nemesis without ever managing to try it.  Well worth the wait, it would be a classic at the grade if it weren't squeezed in between blocks, scrittley, eliminate, hardly ever in nick and with a not-ideal landing.  Brilliant moves though, can't think of another 7a roof with moves as good.

S rest

S tried to get going but just couldn't. Been a month since I had consecutive rest days though so probably needed.

Weight a bit disappointing, 58.2kg this morning after hitting a low of 57.5 in the week, so only .4kg down on the week.  Always seem a bit high first thing Monday though, perhaps the Roast dinner still weighing-in.

[Wood FT]

Weight a bit disappointing, 58.2kg this morning after hitting a low of 57.5 in the week, so only .4kg down on the week.  Always seem a bit high first thing Monday though, perhaps the Roast dinner still weighing-in.

How tall are you Nai if you don't mind me asking?

[ashtond6]

S - first trip to malham!!! It was roasting, t shirt and shorts weather.

Looking forward to seeing you man!
Ideal prep for Suirana then... snow abounds. Even woke up to snow on the hill above Sella on Sunday. Bring the downie and see you in a couple of weeks.

[SA Chris]

M- Weights
T - Core
W - wall session. Arrived late, held up at work doing something which turned out to be a wast of time, OK session, managed 2 probs on 45 deg board I was failing on last week.
T - can't remember - probably nothing
F - wall session. Still got sore skin from Wednesday, but still had an OK session.
S - Swimming cancelled. Park in Afternoon with kids, cracking day.
S - all planned for skiing, but 2 ill family members so didn't happen. Brief Boltsheugh session, glorious sunshine, rock warm, but still cold and greasy in breaks. Managed the Flying Arete as highlight. Nice to be out on the sun though. Beach afternoon.

[filz]

M - fb max hangs. finishers with weights
T - board climbing 1 hour. Tried some hard problems. Tired.
W - same as Monday. fb and finishers
T - body weight and rings before work: ring planks, L-sits, tuck planche, tuck front lever pull ups, front lever progression
F - more fb before work. In the evening some system training
S - nothing
S - board climbing. Great session. Felt strong on some problems were I barely could do the single moves.

Good training week. The change in my finger boarding routing from a few weeks ago seems to work quite well.

[Schnell]

F - hard boulders in garage then to Burbage South to try Iain's Roof.  Have been to look at this a few times over the years but never found it in condition, kind of became a nemesis without ever managing to try it.  Well worth the wait, it would be a classic at the grade if it weren't squeezed in between blocks, scrittley, eliminate, hardly ever in nick and with a not-ideal landing.  Brilliant moves though, can't think of another 7a roof with moves as good.

Too right, this is a great problem. I stumbled across it one day without knowing what it was but had to try it because it looked great. Pity about the landing as you say.

[nai]

Weight a bit disappointing, 58.2kg this morning after hitting a low of 57.5 in the week, so only .4kg down on the week.  Always seem a bit high first thing Monday though, perhaps the Roast dinner still weighing-in.

How tall are you Nai if you don't mind me asking?

5' 6".

And if you don't mind me asking, are you in Siurana WC 19th?

[Nibile]

The change in my finger boarding routing from a few weeks ago seems to work quite well.

What change?

[Dolly]

M Bodyweight HIT then Pilates
T Wave lunchtime, but I was weak and not fully recovered from whatever bug I had the week before.
W Bodyweight HIT. Still tired.
T Wave lunchtime. Did one level 3 but managed to do something to my thigh so had to stop - hopefully just a pulled muscle. Gym in the evening trying to do a kettlebell/press up HIT routine. Found it nails.
F Battered from the press ups and the Kettlebells the night before. Beastmaker at lunchtime
S. Short run in the morning, but not far as my thigh hurt from Thursday. Bodyweight HIT in the evening
S. Weights. Tried hard. Still feel tired now.


I think I was still recovering from the previous week TBH. Hopefully more climbing this week

[Wood FT]

Weight a bit disappointing, 58.2kg this morning after hitting a low of 57.5 in the week, so only .4kg down on the week.  Always seem a bit high first thing Monday though, perhaps the Roast dinner still weighing-in.

How tall are you Nai if you don't mind me asking?

5' 6".

  I'm such a fat bastard

And if you don't mind me asking, are you in Siurana WC 19th?

yes to the 27th, staying in Cornudella, are you as well? seems like there's quite a good chunk of ukb there around then.

[ashtond6]

yes to the 27th, staying in Cornudella, are you as well? seems like there's quite a good chunk of ukb there around then.

Myself, Kelvin & another friend staying there 22/3 - 4/4 too 
ridic excited

[filz]

The change in my finger boarding routing from a few weeks ago seems to work quite well.

What change?

Basically I've added more weight going back to bigger holds, I removed middle 2 and front 2 hangs, and changed them with front 3 and back 3.

Right now I'm doing 5-8" hangs with 1' rest:
- 3-4x one arm hangs on 4 removing a couple of kg
- 3x back 3 with 10 kg on 5 and reducing the depth with 4 mm wood blocks. The hardest prehension for me.
- 2-3x full crimp with 10 kg on 10
- 3x front 3 with 14 kg on 5 removing 12 mm depth
- slopers when I have time and the skin is good enough

In the previous training middle 2 and front 2 hangs were very inconsistent. Some days I could do them easily for 7-8", other days with the same added weight I was not able to lift my feet from the ground 

[Nibile]