[James Malloch]

I had a play on this today thinking it was the minimum - oops!

Not quite the warm up I expected but I was pleasantly surprised by the climbing. It's one I've wanted to try but assumed it would be too hard.

Anyway, I was fine for most of the route apart from two sections.

First was the keyhole slot bit. I could get stood up fine on a LH undercut and RH side pull. Big reach with RH past the keyhole to a good sloping thing. High LF and rock up. Missing the keyhole I could reach a little but good crimp with my LH a foot or so above the bolt. It was soaking and slimy so couldn't pull on it unfortunately.

Is this the way to do it, and then go into the undercuts?


Next struggle I had was moving off the undercuts and getting over the lip. Nothing with good reach seemed to be very good to get established for the final moves to the chains.

Any beta would be appreciated - thanks!

[Andy F V2.0]

There are a couple of ways around the crux. IIRC, from the slope hold with your right hand you can get your feet up, then reach a long way left to a small but good crimp, the move your right hand to a good undercut, then reach onto the big undercut flake with your left.

To get round the big flake you reach up and right for a hold then bounce up to a good flats hold with your left hand, then shuffle left to the finish of Yosemite/space race.

[Duncan campbell]

Whoa is it all dry?!?

[James Malloch]

Cheers Andy - I know the crimp you mean but it felt like a long way so I didn't really try it.

Hopefully get on it again soon.

Duncan - yeah it was definitely climbable. Some wet holds but I managed to do all the moves other than those above without a problem. Wet holds were all pretty big or avoidable.

[Paul B]

I had a 'mare on this near the end of last season (I'm claiming illness). The keyhole bit is by far the crux IMO but my sequence was hardly refined.

The top felt wildly eliminate to me and far less satisfying than taking the space. A long reach followed by stepping leftward on the big slopey footers leaves you at better holds and the standard TTS finish. If it was at all wet I could see this being tricky.