[bernard]

Anyone know where this has gone?

http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/principlestraining.pdf

Is it available anymore?

Cheers,
B

[mrjonathanr]

Try here...

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26622.0.html

[shark]

Not sure why that has gone.

Full document here and below which were the slides from a presentation he gave:

[bernard]

Cheers shark, good skills. B

[BicepsMou]

New to here - Hi!
Two questions about the Binney approach to 'measuring muscle fatigue', as shown on his chart #10, in case anybody knows about these details:
1- Is the test person required to follow a special protocol (e.g. 'shake out every x seconds for a period y' or 'do constantly hang on with both hands' or...)?
Or can the test person do whatever feels best to keep the pump down, as long as remaining on the (test) wall?
2 - What depth has the hold he uses? Assuming from the picture it's a flat edge...?
Thanks, and in case anybody wonders why I'm intersted - would be keen to reproduce the experiment with our local training groups.

[shark]

It is a flat edge. Worth getting in touch with Lottie Cooper as she was using the device in Sept to do blood lactate experiments

[BicepsMou]

Thanks Shark!

And found the following reference in the meantime, which provides good answers w.r.t. protocol and edge depth:
http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/new/research/binney2003c.shtml
Binney&Rolf: Blood Lactate Response to Forearm Specific Exercise in Rock Climbers

Quoted from there:
<<METHODS: Fifteen male (...) rock climbers (...) were assessed using an overhanging indoor climbing ergometer with horizontal wooden rungs 2 cm wide. The subjects performed repetitions of 5s double hand contraction followed by 2s single hand contraction on the same rung with the feet remaining stationary in contact with the ergometer. Exercise continued until volitional fatigue. A discontinuous protocol was implemented using climbing angles of 20, 25 and 30 degrees from the vertical.(...) >>