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Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font (Read 14920 times)

cha1n

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#25 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 04, 2016, 10:42:56 pm
Jour de Reve 7A
Plastikman  7A

First climb that came to mind was Coquille like many have suggested.

It's you're first trip, you should def try the classics that will be in every Font video you google, Graviton, Jet Set, Retour aux Sources, etc, etc. I reckon Alister is going to be fine with all those powerful boulders on slopers! Enjoy.

Denbob99

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#26 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 04, 2016, 11:55:49 pm
If you can get a copy of Essential Fontainebleau, it has the classics of every area, great for a first trip. There's a new edition but no idea how it compares to the old one, anyone who has the new one feel free to chime in.

ferret

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#27 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 05:22:57 am


Classic steep crimpy low grade 7, does have a weird angled slab landing which is a bit off putting but also means your spotters a stay quite close as you get higher. Needs a few pads and a few drop offs for confidence and is quite a stiff little number.
Have I sold it yet?
Its also proper satisfying cutting loose off toehooks and powering through and gradually easier the higher you get

dave

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#28 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 08:21:55 am
I may be misreading this thread entirely but I thought the OP was asking for safe low-mid 7s with crimps, not highball stuff with dodgy landings, monos, cracks, roofs, slopers.

ferret

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#29 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 08:25:08 am
I like small edges with reasonable sized moves between them
I like overhangs but not slabs, somewhere between 10 and 50 degrees
The harder moves should be at less than 3m (preferably near the ground) or I'll get scared
It should be hard for AlistairB

Don't know AlistairB but Fleur du Rhum ticks the rest of the boxes, despite the wierd landing theres no hard moves more than 3m off the ground ;) Although the holds are maybe a bit incut to be called crimps...
« Last Edit: February 05, 2016, 08:30:57 am by ferret »

ferret

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#30 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 08:40:07 am
Hell what do I know about crimps in Font anyway, I usually go there to avoid crimps.
Rubis sur L'Ongle and Carnage are probably the best examples, though Carnage only has 1 crimp really...

dave

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#31 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 08:46:41 am
Don't know AlistairB but Fleur du Rhum ticks the rest of the boxes, despite the wierd landing theres no hard moves more than 3m off the ground ;) Although the holds are maybe a bit incut to be called crimps...


Isn't the hard move off that a big lock off a bottomless 2-finger jam?

ferret

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#32 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 08:56:17 am
No that moves not too bad. Its not really a jam, weird hold formed by 2 protrusions on opposite sides of the crack, strange hold feels more like a deep 2/3 finger pocket. The hard moves are moving off the incut after this and holding the swing then the next move going up left. Still not over but going  off the incut left sidepull to the big hold is easier.

ghisino

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#33 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 10:04:27 am
There is the sitstart to a red problem in cuisinière that fits nicely. Near le bleurb, don't remember the name.

Also in isatis, mur cordier is a megaclassic although close to the slabby category. Remember to look at a video for beta, otherwise it might be desperate...

Also there, soirée bresilienne.

And one problem near the fil in aiguille.

Attention chef d'oeuvre would fit if It wasn't a bit high.

Fosse aux loups in 95.2

benno

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#34 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 10:26:55 am
Mouton a Six Pates is crimpy and just up the hill from Le Bleurb... bit hard, maybe? I thought it was 7B... Very good, though.
EDIT: Wrong grade and it's slopier than I remember, having looked at bleau.info

lagerstarfish

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#35 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 10:36:51 am
I may be misreading this thread entirely but I thought the OP was asking for safe low-mid 7s with crimps, not highball stuff with dodgy landings, monos, cracks, roofs, slopers.

and you think we should stick to the origional topic?

got to be worth trying once, I suppose

dave

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#36 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 10:46:28 am
Don't get me wrong, I don't think it'll catch on.

Just waiting for someone to suggest a rainbow rocket, the mountain circuit, or Irreversible next.

tim palmer

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#37 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 11:14:25 am

Also in isatis, mur cordier is a megaclassic although close to the slabby category. Remember to look at a video for beta, otherwise it might be desperate...

It is also pretty high
Edit: 
Do you mean mur cordier at cuisiniere or mur de laminations at isatis?

dave

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#38 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 11:18:21 am
Think there's some confusion here, mur cordier isn't high, and it's not at Isatis either.

http://bleau.info/cuisiniere/474.html

nai

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#39 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 11:42:51 am
Some definite crimping going on though, not too high, right angle. We have a contender.

Johnny Brown

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#40 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 11:49:49 am
I don't think it fits the bill - it's basically off-vertical technical laybacking, not 10 to 50 degrees overhanging, and the key hold isn't a crimp. I think pirate memory games, ages 5-7, are more popular in Switzerland.

All I can think of is that summat-de-prises thing at Canon.
« Last Edit: February 05, 2016, 12:00:05 pm by Johnny Brown »

dave

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#41 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 11:55:01 am
Strappal at Buthiers is probably worth a look too.

nai

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#42 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 12:01:25 pm
I don't think it fits the bill - it's basically off-vertical technical laybacking, not 10 to 50 degrees overhanging, and the key hold isn't a crimp. I think pirate memory game, ages 5-7, are more popular in Switzerland.

All I can think of is that summat-de-prises thing at Canon.

you mean this. Best to stop it before the next problem unless you want to see style you've only ever dreamed of.


andyd

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#43 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 12:17:04 pm
Carnage at cuvier
Alta at isatis.
Both fingery with flat landings
Neither are mid to low though

T_B

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#44 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 12:24:45 pm
La Memel at Isatis is pretty doable/non techy pulling from what I recall.

rodma

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#45 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 12:28:12 pm
Carnage at cuvier
Alta at isatis.
Both fingery with flat landings
Neither are mid to low though
7b+ is surely mid, no?

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk


Andy W

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#46 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 12:37:50 pm
 I like crimpy and powerful but I don't like Strappal and Carnage and I could only do Rubis once the sun went away. I think that crimpy problems in Font are generally quite tough and old school. Much easier ticks are steep and newish problems.

highrepute

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#47 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 05, 2016, 12:59:57 pm

Amazing rock synth violin in this video

A bit pockety possibly
upper-lower-mid 7s
~30 degrees
basic as sin

Richie Crouch

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#48 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 06, 2016, 10:58:26 am
Mur Lombard up the path from la coquille might be a good one?

ghisino

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#49 Re: Crimpy powerful mid to low 7s in Font
February 24, 2016, 11:13:51 am
Mur Lombard up the path from la coquille might be a good one?

+1

even though it is basically a one move wonder

 

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