I'm interested in other's experiences as I'm just over 3 weeks after a middle finger PIP collateral tear. Also from finger-jamming. Mine was initially red and very swollen and it's still a bit swollen locally and bruised-looking so probably a grade III.The advice I received is long-term recovery is usually good if you don't rush things. I was advised a grade II should take 4-6 weeks but this was from a non-climbing physio., so perhaps err on the side of caution. I'm expecting mine to take ~12 weeks.
My collaterals have been perma damaged in both my middle fingers. Like others have said it is twisting on holds/backhand holds and pockets which aggravate them. However, I just climb through the pain now which doesn't seem to worsen them. Once warmed up the pain goes and I able to use most holds comfortably.
The way I see it is that it could be synovitis and it could be collaterals. Either way I'm not going to stop climbing so I just try not to piss it off too much.
The way I see it is that it could be synovitis and it could be collaterals. Either way I'm not going to stop climbing so I just try not to piss it off too much. If I am no longer able to manage it I may well need cortisone injections in a few years but I'm not going to worry about it. My mate Laurie has a similar issue which was diagnosed (correctly or not) as arthritis. He similarly just manages it and doesn't climb on it when it's really bad. Come to think of it he hasn't mentioned it for ages.
Quote from: Scouse D on January 22, 2016, 09:35:56 amThe way I see it is ...He similarly just manages it and doesn't climb on it when it's really bad. Come to think of it he hasn't mentioned it for ages.Once you've a chronic injury - which is what you've got (and me too, haha) - then really the only thing you can do is manage it.
The way I see it is ...He similarly just manages it and doesn't climb on it when it's really bad. Come to think of it he hasn't mentioned it for ages.
Quote from: Lund on January 24, 2016, 07:00:35 pmQuote from: Scouse D on January 22, 2016, 09:35:56 amThe way I see it is ...He similarly just manages it and doesn't climb on it when it's really bad. Come to think of it he hasn't mentioned it for ages.Once you've a chronic injury - which is what you've got (and me too, haha) - then really the only thing you can do is manage it. But, are they chronic injuries or a habit / style causing a recurrent injury? You could change either of these with a bit of effort. (Well possibly a lot of effort).