[csl]

STG
V8 indoors
get out on rock
book summer sport climbing trip - Ceuse trip sorted!

MTG
7c in Siurana

LTG
8a

Mon - Hard Boulders, fingerboard benchmark and Easy Aerocap
Tried a couple of V7's made progress on each.
Fingerboard benchmark - 1 Armed on 1 Pad edge, 5 seconds with 5kg held by pulley. I've also lost weight since last time, so this is 2.3kg less then a month ago.
8 mins on 8 mins off on easy circuit.
Tue -
Wed - AnCap and Fingerboard, PE
Fingerboard - 5 on 10 off - 5 hangs - 2x smallest BM2000 crimp with kg added + 2x Middle 2 on medium pocket.
AnCap - 12 moves on the board - good intensity. 1 set of 6, started a second set but finger was feeling a bit tweaky.
Power Endurance maintenance -  3 laps of 35 move circuit.
Thu -
Fri - Hard Boulders
Only had an hour or so - but did a few problems on the comp wall including one ~V7ish. Somehow really hurt my collarbone on this.
Sat -
Sun - Meant to be Aerocap - but collarbone hurt too much and pulled a muscle in my side when warming up so sacked it off.

Ok week - good intensity on Ancap + fun climbing on friday.

[filz]

Mon - board climbing. Repeated a couple of hard problems, some good tries on others and set a new one. Brilliant session.
Tue - system on the board. Climbed the new problem. Tired from previous day, but it was a good workout
Wed - nothing
Thu - body weight and rings: dips, flies, L-sits, handstands, bridges
Fri - AnCap session at the board. 2 problems repeated 6 times each with 90" rest.
Sat - weighted pull ups, ring push ups, flies, handstand push ups, dips
Sun - sport climbing with friends. Did a lot of easy routes. Nice day out.



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[Nibile]

sport climbing
easy routes
Nice wasted day out

FTFY.
 

[shark]

Thanks csl

11.3-6

M. Noon. Systems board. Flu on wane. Did the benchmark crimp moves - got my crimp back  Did one set of 20/10s aerocap = 120moves
T.
W.  Eve. Fingerboard. Good improvement on last time. Edging back towards previous bests. Ignored deadlifts due to back tweak
T.
F. Eve. Foundry First time back on the Wave for a while. Guy there but cried off with a hurt rib. Bouldered with Stef. Did a good yellow on steep section with a hardish cross thru. Definitely got a better range of movement now across the shoulders from my nightly stretching
S.
S, Eve Foundry Bit fragile from previous evening excesses. Invited Ben and he came along for once. Good session. Not too busy. Ben managed to flash the yellow that took me the whole of the previous session. Wont  invite him again

Continuing with day-on / day off approach. Still working hard so no great loss that the weather is cack. Made an attempt at losing weight /not drinking during week but undone a lot of the good work last night. Keen to beat Lagers at FBO next saturday

[Dolly]

What about me ?

[Dolly]

M Foundry wave. Thought I'd better have a look before the comp. Did some of the level "2" s. I was in good company finding them nails. Pilate's in the evening.first time since September. Found it hard
T gym core
W Foundry wave again. Hot but flashed 1 level 3 and did another.
T 11 routes at the gym
F
S A cold Baslow. Failed on Whip me whip. E again before failing on Flatworms,  but it was properly Baltic in the wind and snow by then and hard to keep warm.
S HIT

[Dolly]

Sorry for autocorrect. I obvs meant whip me whip me and flatworld.

[lagerstarfish]

Keen to beat Lagers at FBO next saturday

What about me ?

you two can fight it out for 3rd place after me and Ben Moon

I'd just like to point out that I haven't climbed on The Wave for about 8 years - not that that's going to be a problem, of course

[36chambers]

STG: Font training plan and exorcist short 8A
MTG: Yorkshire Classics
LTG: 8B

M: T-nation FL4 x4 (with weights and gym ball) good session.
T: An Cap x4 on the 50. I realised I was doing 13 moves in ~30 sec, which is too short time wise. 
W: Mobility stuff, foam roller etc.
T: An Pow x5 (extra one because I still felt good). 50 board is perfect for this one.
F:
S: Brimham for a few hours before being snowed off. Repeated easy stuff. One arm fingerboard max hang calibration session. I'm not very strong.
S: Campus board check up. First time in ages. 1-5 easy, 1-4-6 easy. Elbows started complaining so left it. An Cap x4 on 50. This time slower.     

Weather's been grim, but I've actually enjoyed my first few weeks of orchestrated training. 8 weeks till Font, so I've earmarked specific sessions till then.   

[shark]

What about me ?

You have nothing to fear

[the_dom]

A good week.

Mon: lunchtime deadlifts, afternoon hang board - 5/3/1 protocol, de-loading. Still felt hard.
Tues: bouldering - short but decent session, did quite a lot of hardish problems quite quickly.
Wed: lunchtime weights, afternoon 75 min hike in the forest.
Thurs: AM surf. PM Boulder - another quick, but good session. Hang board when I got home - 5/3/1 de-loading. Heavy day.
Fri: Feeling pretty battered - light deadlifts and KB TGUs - focus on mobility and form rather than power
Sat: AM surf in fun waves, followed by a one arm hangboard session. First one in a while.
Sun: AM surf in even funner waves. Great session. Hike in the forest in the evening listening to Jam Crack, which is brilliant. Well done Grimer.

[filz]

sport climbing
easy routes
Nice wasted day out

FTFY.
 

lol Next time bimbi board :-D

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[Muenchener]

STG (January): sharkathon. Yes.
   Onsight 6b+ on plastic. Nope. Close: one route onsighted that was blatantly soft & doesn't count. One circuit; ciruits don't count. And a 2nd go redpoint.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

Sharkathon Day 25: Wall, Boulderwelt. Weak attempt at a max bouldering session. Was tired before I even arrived, and powered out quickly.
Weighted pullups 3x3x18.5, kb overhead presses, skin the cats.
Sharkathon Day 26: 30 minutes mobility, focused mainly on shoulders & upper back
Sharkathon Day 27: Wall, Thalkirchen. Light bouldering session on stuff around my onsight level, focusing on footworky/balancey stuff rather than cranking.
Sharkathon Day 28: Wall, Freimann. Eight routes/attempts up to 6c+. Very weak session, maybe the bouldering yesterday wasn't as toned down as I thought. That's ok. The object of the exercise is to be strong in May, not now.
Sharkathon Day 29: Bike to work. No icy roads, no lurgy, able to move round outdoors again. Hurrah.
Sharkathon Day 30: A few beastmaker max hangs in the morning before heading out to what was supposed to be a family & friends ski/snowboard outing before a birthday party. Lack of snow scuppered the snowboarding but not the party.
Sharkathon Day 31: Completely mentally exhausted after driving home in a blizzard. Managed half an hour shoudler mobility/stability work before bed to round off the Sharkathon.

[rodma]

M: wall session with campus. Just squeeze out 147 on the medium rungs but it doesn't feel clever. Manage one hardish problem ( the hardest since November)
T: easy weights at home
W: wall session with campus. Still broken from Monday, but a worthwhile session nonetheless
T: weights at home. Starting to feel a bit easier
F: rest
S: rest
S: campusy boulder session at home with the wee guy.

Happy to discover I weigh 61.5kg. Normally when I'm off form I discover that I'm light, but I'm about 3kg over my normal weight

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[Wood FT]

Mon -
Tue - Works, couldn't climb 100% so decided a good use of time would be to climb yellows as statically as possible in between coaching gf, enlightening.
Wed -
Thu - Foundry routes, still tender but managed 8 routes with the highlight being a new 7a on the right with a udge-udge rock over at the top. 6c bridging corner at the end had me throwing in the towel, ow.
Fri - Went to collect a bag I left so climbed for a bit, tried to climb on the wave with shark but could feel my ribs would mean he'd burn me off so retreated to auto-belays.
Sat - damn &
Sun - blast it

I hope my ribs feel better soon, currently coughing and laughing give a sharp pain, bugger.

[Nibile]

Mon - Aero Cap. Yes, you read it right, I trained something with Aero in front. Dumbbell complex, 2 mins dumbbell complex. Very tired. Forearm Doms.
Tue - rest. Amazing forearm Doms.
Wed - ab wheel, front levers, overhead barbell carry, shoulder barbell carry. Forearms getting better.
Thu - clean and press 5x5. Climbing class. Right shoulder a bit tweaky. Abs Doms.
Fri - rest. Abs Doms.
Sat - rest. Wine tasting.
Sun - board climbing. Excellent progress on current project. Strange story: I had this other problem with a nasty stop-move that I hadn't ever done in three years, involving a long move from a three fingers, half pad (if half...) crimp. So on my last session I decided that I'd better find an alternative and set a new sequence to tweak the problem so that it was still worth trying. The alternative seemed hard but doable. So, after the warm up and some recruitment I thought I'd give the original move a go with good skin and fresh fingers. Boom. Did it straight away. Schoolboy error: instead of sealing the deal, I tried the new problem, which is probably less precarious but physically harder. Genius. No success.
End of session, tried the move again: boom. Did it again and proceeded to climb the rest of the problem. Next time I'll add the start, it's three moves that take out a little bit from you and make the move quite spicy.
Good session.

[fatneck]

Bad week being ill and turning 40 (the turning 40 bit was alright, got spoilt rotten ) and having to spent most if the weekend completing an application form for a job I'm not sure I want...

Monday weight - 14st6.8lbs - another pound lost - still on track!

Mon - Pilates - not too bad but felt ill afterwards
Tue - walk to work but bus home, nothing else. 18oz Porterhouse steak out for tea Nomnomnom
Wed - went fishing all day, managed top break my trout PB twice in one day with a couple of monstrous fish - good but windy day. Felt beasted afterwards...
Thur - work insanely busy - walk to and from but nowt else
Fri - short session at the Hangar - did ok
Sat - application form. Comedy night in the evening. Good fun - no beer
Sun - application form and birthday meal with the whole family

So not a good work in terms of doing any training but the diet is clearly keeping the weight coming off despite the birthday excesses. Still not feeling 100%, hoping to get more done this week...

[tomtom]

What about me ?

He's blaming you for starting off all the 'Shark needs a Segway to get around his house' jokes..

I think he's missing a training trick:

[T_B]

84.5Kg

M - Foundry lunch - carefully doing Level 2s (x 5). Finger felt weak/vulnerable.
T - Foundry lunch - LI AeroCap. Finger felt better. P.M. School. Doing some assisted one-arm hangs open with 10Kg off. Some rings (inc offset pull ups). A little bit of bouldering on big holds.
W -
T - Foundry lunch - warming up sort of Aerocapping, testing finger, then light bouldering. Then some hangs - managed 1 x 5 x 7 front 2 in #7. Finger worse than it was? Might have overdone the deadhanging Tuesday night?
F - Foundry lunch - Level 2s x 5, finger less vulnerable than Monday. Then tried 5 x 7 sec front 2 hangs in #7 but failed on 3rd one. Probs not warmed up enough. Finger definitely felt better today.
S - A.m. run. 11.3Km / 200m of ascent. Eccy woods and up Limb Brook to Ringinglow and back.
S - School am. Mainly 50 degree. Could climb as long as not crimping, so did some stuff including being able to try Schoolboy. Some core exercises on the rings.

From thinking my finger was getting worse earlier in the week, to a definite improvement come Sunday. Psyched for running. Not a bad week of activity.

[nai]

Foundry lunch - carefully doing Level 2s (x 5).

Do you mean you did five level 2 problems or the whole L2 set five times?

[T_B]

Foundry lunch - carefully doing Level 2s (x 5).

Do you mean you did five level 2 problems or the whole L2 set five times?

Ha! Just 5 of them. A few crimps in there to avoid for me...

[nai]

Thought it'd be a bit much for a lunch time, saw Ben Moon do them all in about 10 minutes without breaking sweat a couple of weeks back but he is Ben Moon for a reason.

[T_B]

Thought it'd be a bit much for a lunch time, saw Ben Moon do them all in about 10 minutes without breaking sweat a couple of weeks back but he is Ben Moon for a reason.

Yeah that was him AeroCappin apparently

[tomtom]

M: Peak trip. Marginal connies. Went to BBG South - 'warmed up' on Attitude Inspector... fairly comfortably reached up and into the break on the 3rd attempt - for my hand to slip out on the layers of green slime that were in said break.. Lost alot of skin on 3 knuckles on the way down Then got pissed off looking for wet problems on the edge, went down to the boulders - that were damp - pulled on a few things and felt cold and hurty (for want of a better expression) so bailed out

Tu: Depot Manc.

We: Rest day (work)

Thu: Wilton 3 (I think) futile attempts at things on the Square... I think it was quite wet,..

Fri: Rest - did a load of press ups...

Sa: Back up to W3 with Andy Popp - good fun messing about on the Square in between snow showers! Surprisingly sheltered up there. Made some progress on Blind Flurry.

Su: Depot Manc - good session - caught up with Galpinos for first time in ages and met a few other folk I'd not seen for a while too. Good scenes.

Seem to be having a little flare up of Golfers elbow on my left side... though its hard to tell whats aggravating it or not. I think it may have been feeling worse this week as I clonked it climbing one time and have quite a big brruise there - so hard to tell whether its tendon pain or just the bruise being rubbed etc.. Also I've started doing loads of stretches and pressups (deep ones) and eccentrics to combat the Golfers - and I wonder if prodding other things into action in the elbow causes a little pain to start with. Its a funny one - today (for example) it feels 100% despite having doms in both arms from a moderately heavy session on Sunday... who knows...

[ashtond6]

Another frustrating week, think I'm still adjusting to a new routine

M - works, felt rough but did a couple of whites. 7A?
T - rest
W - works again as no Indoor partner, bad session again but did some good core work and power training
T - rest
F - rest
S - Burbage south freezing so went to Froggatt and connies were lovely. Got really close to Tombstone chipless static (7A+) but then it kept snowing grrr. Not too fussed though as I think I'd have got it. Soloed an amazing VS flake in the quarry by the road. Like a peak version of the pancake flake  so fun
S - short works session again. Climbed well - flashed loads of the new wasps circuit. Also checked out broomgrove

Seem to be climbing well, just feel like I've not done much for ages. Counting down the weeks until light nights and drier weather!

Anyone know the deal with broomgrove? Is it considered anti social? Since its in a very urban area

[nai]

Thought it'd be a bit much for a lunch time, saw Ben Moon do them all in about 10 minutes without breaking sweat a couple of weeks back but he is Ben Moon for a reason.

Yeah that was him AeroCappin apparently

Yeah, at the same time I was AeroCappin on a 6a+ on the autobelay 

[nai]

Catch up time:

WC Jan 4th & 11th - 2x AeroCap. 1x AnCap, 2x AeroPow, 2x conditioning as per plan.

WC Jan 18th - family ski holiday - managed 2x fingerboard workouts on a door frame.

WC 25th Jan came home with a cold picked up in the chalet so had to skip the hard PE workouts:

M - fingerboard & 1/2 AnCap session
T -  new black circuit and 3x10 mins AeroCap at miniworks
w rest/ill
th rest/ill
F - feel better - short boulder in garage then 1/2 HI AeroCap
S - miniworks with kids, all the blacks, all the yellows and most murples including a couple I'd not done before. Either the new problems are easier than previous or I'm going ok. 1/2 HI AeroCap back home.
S rest, start feeling shite again, come down with cold going around school 

[webbo]

Mon. Weights Dumbbells did an extra set on all exs.
Tue. Abs, core and deadhanging. Appt with consultant Achilles op booked for tomorrow.
Wed.  Achilles op.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Weights Dumbbells seated 5 sets on all exs, deadhanging.
Sun. Nothing.

[cheque]

<b>STG-</b>7s/ Extremes on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.

<b>MTG-</b> 7b/+ in 2016

<b>LTG-</b> 8a

<b>M-</b> Wide push-ups.

<b>Tu-</b> Notts Depot- new blue (fourth-hardest) circuit- flashed them all without a rest. Tried some of the yellow (second-hardest) and pink problems I'd not done (all the thugs ones basically), not very productively.

<b>W-</b> Rest.

<b>Th-</b> Notts Depot- new red (third-hardest) circuit- flashed all but 5, only one of which I needed more than a second go on. Pleased with that, even though the consensus is that they're a bit soft. Unproductive attempts at remaining yellow problems after.

<b>F-</b> Started doing some wide-arm push-ups but during 1st set realised that I could slide the stand things I use across the floor under load so proceeded to do a thing where I did one wide push-up, slid the stands into the middle, did a normal push-up, pushed them back etc. It felt like the sort of thing euro training wads do in those boring training videos and was very hard- 16 in a set max rather than 25 in a set comfortably.

<b>Sa-</b> Woke up early with very stiff back, pecs and triceps. Early as I'd decided to do Parkrun with my girlfriend, against her will. This is the third time I've run since school PE 20 years ago, the first time I've done a timed race (although I'm told it's not a race) and it felt like the hardest thing I'd ever done. My arms were flapping about like a sedated chicken by the last 500m. Did 25:51 which I'm told is OK as it's a hilly one. Knackered all day. Back, pecs and triceps DOMS sets in like a motherfucker in the evening.

<b>Su-</b> Extreme calf, shin and quad pain. Notts Depot with girlfriend, against her will. I probably wouldn't have even gone without her, but she'd got up and run 9 miles before I even woke up so I didn't want to admit defeat. Saw Rich D whose kids seemed pretty psyched for the easy problems. Surprisingly my girl was (a bit) too and got up some easy problems which is more than she did on her previous visit in 2012. I made more progress on the burly yellows than previously but no ticks.

Only one rest day and lots of exercise this week. Unsurprisingly I'm now Ill.

[tk421a]

STG: Albarracin Easter - 7B+
MTG: 8a
LTG: 8A/8b+

M: Wall sesh, ancap, hard boulders with low rest. Some messing around for fun
Tu/W: -
Th/Fr/Sa: Sport climbing in Bulgaria, ~3-5 routes a day. Flashed a 6c+ which was great, not bad for not putting a rope or touching rock for 4 months. Tried some moves on a dirty short 7a+. Definitely need to put more focus on getting out on weekends. London is rubbish for that.

Booked the trip to Albarracin, going for 12 days, really psyched for it now.

I'm also considering saving money this year to fund a year long climbing trip. Would be travelling solo so any tips on where people would go, would be great. Will want to go to places that I could find partners to climb with.

[Luke Owens]

M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)

T: Lunch - 3 x 10 Press ups
6 x 5 Off-set pull ups (Alternate arms)
3 x 10 Shoulder Raises (5kg)
3 x 15sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises

Had nerve conduction test at the Hospital.

Eve: Plas Power - 15 mins ARC traverse warm-up.

20' Board - Repeated the usual stuff up to 6B+, repated a ~6C+ from last week and climbed a new problem which was about 6C.

45' Board - Repeated 6B+, climbed new project after a few goes, ~6C+.

AnCap - Same circuit as last week as didn't have time to make a new one.

13 moves x 10 (1min rest between reps) Powered out on sets 9 & 10.

W: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
50 Crunches

Morning: Went to physio in work to discuss alternatives to steriod injections/surgery in wrists as a result of Nerve Conduction test on Tuesday which showed nerve compression in both wrists.

Physio assesed and identified my ulnar nerve is irritated on both arms and Carpal Tunnel tests didn't really show much up other than slightly in the left hand. I've also got golfers elbow on my right arm too which isn't helping with tightness in my forearm. Got some stretches to do for 2 weeks before I see her again, in which time she said if the stretches are going to work they should of worked by then. Also, she did say it's possible to reverse the nerve compression I have if it isn't too bad already but this seems to be at odds with what others say.

Lunch: Stretching and nerve glides

Eve: Plas Power - 20 mins ARC traverse warm-up.

20' Board - Repeated the usual stuff up to 6B+, climbed new problem which is about 7A, took about 30 mins work, felt hard. Front on on not so positive crimps.

45' Board - Repeated 6B+, and ~6C+ from Tuesday. Came up with a new project which I probably would of done if I hadn't of spent so long coming up with it, need to come up with a few projects to try instead of always just trying one new one.

AnCap - Quickly tried to come up with a new circuit and did that for 6 reps then powered out half way through on sets 7 & 8 which was on my old circuit.

15 moves x 6 (2min rest between reps)
14 moves x 2 (1min rest between reps)

F: Lunch - Stretching and nerve glides.

S: Cave - Left Wall Trav - Felt stonger on the moves again but still powering out 5/6 moves in. Beta feels all wrong for that move, have tried multiple ways that all feel just as hard. Need to find a way that "fits" me.

Not helping that every time I'm in there I'm tired from previous sessions, especially this week having done 2 AnCap sessions.

Need to try 2 rest days prior to a session.

S: Stretching and nerve glides

[Falling Down]

STG (end Jan): Rebuild base (route and bouldering pyramids) do a load of good routes and have fun in El Chorro (Done)
MTG (end Mar): weight 78kg, do a load of good routes in Siurana/Monsant.

M - Westway, felt a bit heavy and tired.  Bouldered and did some circuits for an hour and a half.

T - Nowt.  Packed for trip.

W - Train up to Sheffield and an annual visit to my opticians. An hour or so easy bouldering on the Irn Bru circuit at The Works whilst Martin had his coaching.

T/F/S/S/M - El Chorro area.  A really great enjoyable trip learning to climb again.  I was rubbish at first, over-gripping, scared and reluctant to do anything committing above a bolt.  I knew what to do of course, but the mind and to a lesser extent body weren't willing.  Started to relax though and did some great "easy" routes.  Several long 30m+ classic 5's and 6's at Escalera Arabe; a brilliant 6a at Desplomilandia called Sin Mantenimiento; a superb long sustained High Tor-esque 5+ called Putifero at Los Albercones.  The highlight was the last route of the trip. A hard, relatively short 18m 6b at Poza de la Mona called Poda Higuera.  Gently overhanging for most of its length and sustained throughout.  Martin, who was on sighting 7a and 7a+ every day was huffing and puffing his way up it as his warm up.

My first attempt failed at the third bolt where I just wouldn't commit to climbing past it for fear of falling so climbed up to the next bolt after a rest and did some falling practice - utterly terrifying at first - which did the trick.  The next attempt saw my foot pop off a crucial foothold and I plopped off.  With 30 mins to go before we had to leave for the airport I had one last go and successfully clipped the chains after digging in and fighting.  Really really happy & felt like I was climbing properly again.

So that's one short term goal ticked.  Had a fantastic time just going climbing with Martin and really pleased with the progress I've made since the beginning of Jan when I was struggling to complete 5's on the self-belay at the Westway.  It was a real pleasure to do loads of 3* "easy" routes with the climbing feeling challenging and the outcome unknown rather than just enjoying them as warm-ups as I might have done several years ago.

It's given me loads of motivation to get fitter and shed some more lbs before Suirana next month.  Now I know my level it'll be easier to work out some better goals over the coming weeks.

[T_B]

Good work FD

[csl]

Nice one! Looking forward to Siurana! 

[seankenny]

Good stuff. 

One for your ticklist: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=18018

[Falling Down]

Thanks gents.  Sean - that's a cracking route.

[shurt]

I'm looking forward to it as well,  can't wait.

Stg: get fit for Spain,  do routes outside as much as possible beforehand
Mtg: 7b+ sport,  E4, f7a+
Ltg: 8a sport

I can't remember all ins and outs of the week as my little boy hasn't been sleeping very well so in a bit of a brain fug.  Having said that I did a good amount of sessions on fingerboard (2-3),  mainly pure stamina stuff and got back on the Sea Mills traverse wall and did best link yet which was great. Only downside was I tweeked a middle finger which I had to rest and massage for a few days.

Think I'm going to try and use Sea Mills as much as possible before trip as it is like climbing on real rock so good  for building up skin rather than the wall (and cheaper!).

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

M: Maui. Hikes and swimming. Lots!
T: Leave AM
W: Back to Sydney PM. Only non sharkathon day...
T: St Leonards. Week off, climbed like poo. Just ran laps on things. No campus/fingerboard.
F: Theraband work.
S: Crumbly. Been so monsoonal in Sydney lately, everywhere wet and spoogy. Falling off the end of a long/airy-ish V7 extension to a "classic" V5- Anorexic. Literally falling off the last moves. Just want it done because I hate the V5... Fantastic fall in double toe hooks by a mate...... So fucking funny.
S: St Leonards. Running laps. Making hard problems that I can't do...........

2nd last move of the extension.
This was a fall, shouldn't be cutting there.