[csl]

STG
V8 indoors
get out on rock
book summer sport climbing trip - Ceuse trip sorted!

MTG
7c in Siurana

LTG
8a

Mon - Hard Boulders, fingerboard benchmark and Easy Aerocap
Tried a couple of V7's made progress on each.
Fingerboard benchmark - 1 Armed on 1 Pad edge, 5 seconds with 5kg held by pulley. I've also lost weight since last time, so this is 2.3kg less then a month ago.
8 mins on 8 mins off on easy circuit.
Tue -
Wed - AnCap and Fingerboard, PE
Fingerboard - 5 on 10 off - 5 hangs - 2x smallest BM2000 crimp with kg added + 2x Middle 2 on medium pocket.
AnCap - 12 moves on the board - good intensity. 1 set of 6, started a second set but finger was feeling a bit tweaky.
Power Endurance maintenance -  3 laps of 35 move circuit.
Thu -
Fri - Hard Boulders
Only had an hour or so - but did a few problems on the comp wall including one ~V7ish. Somehow really hurt my collarbone on this.
Sat -
Sun - Meant to be Aerocap - but collarbone hurt too much and pulled a muscle in my side when warming up so sacked it off.

Ok week - good intensity on Ancap + fun climbing on friday.

[filz]

Mon - board climbing. Repeated a couple of hard problems, some good tries on others and set a new one. Brilliant session.
Tue - system on the board. Climbed the new problem. Tired from previous day, but it was a good workout
Wed - nothing
Thu - body weight and rings: dips, flies, L-sits, handstands, bridges
Fri - AnCap session at the board. 2 problems repeated 6 times each with 90" rest.
Sat - weighted pull ups, ring push ups, flies, handstand push ups, dips
Sun - sport climbing with friends. Did a lot of easy routes. Nice day out.



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[Nibile]

sport climbing
easy routes
Nice wasted day out

FTFY.
 

[shark]

Thanks csl

11.3-6

M. Noon. Systems board. Flu on wane. Did the benchmark crimp moves - got my crimp back  Did one set of 20/10s aerocap = 120moves
T.
W.  Eve. Fingerboard. Good improvement on last time. Edging back towards previous bests. Ignored deadlifts due to back tweak
T.
F. Eve. Foundry First time back on the Wave for a while. Guy there but cried off with a hurt rib. Bouldered with Stef. Did a good yellow on steep section with a hardish cross thru. Definitely got a better range of movement now across the shoulders from my nightly stretching
S.
S, Eve Foundry Bit fragile from previous evening excesses. Invited Ben and he came along for once. Good session. Not too busy. Ben managed to flash the yellow that took me the whole of the previous session. Wont  invite him again

Continuing with day-on / day off approach. Still working hard so no great loss that the weather is cack. Made an attempt at losing weight /not drinking during week but undone a lot of the good work last night. Keen to beat Lagers at FBO next saturday

[Dolly]

What about me ?

[Dolly]

M Foundry wave. Thought I'd better have a look before the comp. Did some of the level "2" s. I was in good company finding them nails. Pilate's in the evening.first time since September. Found it hard
T gym core
W Foundry wave again. Hot but flashed 1 level 3 and did another.
T 11 routes at the gym
F
S A cold Baslow. Failed on Whip me whip. E again before failing on Flatworms,  but it was properly Baltic in the wind and snow by then and hard to keep warm.
S HIT

[Dolly]

Sorry for autocorrect. I obvs meant whip me whip me and flatworld.

[lagerstarfish]

Keen to beat Lagers at FBO next saturday

What about me ?

you two can fight it out for 3rd place after me and Ben Moon

I'd just like to point out that I haven't climbed on The Wave for about 8 years - not that that's going to be a problem, of course

[36chambers]

STG: Font training plan and exorcist short 8A
MTG: Yorkshire Classics
LTG: 8B

M: T-nation FL4 x4 (with weights and gym ball) good session.
T: An Cap x4 on the 50. I realised I was doing 13 moves in ~30 sec, which is too short time wise. 
W: Mobility stuff, foam roller etc.
T: An Pow x5 (extra one because I still felt good). 50 board is perfect for this one.
F:
S: Brimham for a few hours before being snowed off. Repeated easy stuff. One arm fingerboard max hang calibration session. I'm not very strong.
S: Campus board check up. First time in ages. 1-5 easy, 1-4-6 easy. Elbows started complaining so left it. An Cap x4 on 50. This time slower.     

Weather's been grim, but I've actually enjoyed my first few weeks of orchestrated training. 8 weeks till Font, so I've earmarked specific sessions till then.   

[shark]

What about me ?

You have nothing to fear

[the_dom]

A good week.

Mon: lunchtime deadlifts, afternoon hang board - 5/3/1 protocol, de-loading. Still felt hard.
Tues: bouldering - short but decent session, did quite a lot of hardish problems quite quickly.
Wed: lunchtime weights, afternoon 75 min hike in the forest.
Thurs: AM surf. PM Boulder - another quick, but good session. Hang board when I got home - 5/3/1 de-loading. Heavy day.
Fri: Feeling pretty battered - light deadlifts and KB TGUs - focus on mobility and form rather than power
Sat: AM surf in fun waves, followed by a one arm hangboard session. First one in a while.
Sun: AM surf in even funner waves. Great session. Hike in the forest in the evening listening to Jam Crack, which is brilliant. Well done Grimer.

[filz]

sport climbing
easy routes
Nice wasted day out

FTFY.
 

lol Next time bimbi board :-D

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[Muenchener]

STG (January): sharkathon. Yes.
   Onsight 6b+ on plastic. Nope. Close: one route onsighted that was blatantly soft & doesn't count. One circuit; ciruits don't count. And a 2nd go redpoint.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

Sharkathon Day 25: Wall, Boulderwelt. Weak attempt at a max bouldering session. Was tired before I even arrived, and powered out quickly.
Weighted pullups 3x3x18.5, kb overhead presses, skin the cats.
Sharkathon Day 26: 30 minutes mobility, focused mainly on shoulders & upper back
Sharkathon Day 27: Wall, Thalkirchen. Light bouldering session on stuff around my onsight level, focusing on footworky/balancey stuff rather than cranking.
Sharkathon Day 28: Wall, Freimann. Eight routes/attempts up to 6c+. Very weak session, maybe the bouldering yesterday wasn't as toned down as I thought. That's ok. The object of the exercise is to be strong in May, not now.
Sharkathon Day 29: Bike to work. No icy roads, no lurgy, able to move round outdoors again. Hurrah.
Sharkathon Day 30: A few beastmaker max hangs in the morning before heading out to what was supposed to be a family & friends ski/snowboard outing before a birthday party. Lack of snow scuppered the snowboarding but not the party.
Sharkathon Day 31: Completely mentally exhausted after driving home in a blizzard. Managed half an hour shoudler mobility/stability work before bed to round off the Sharkathon.

[rodma]

M: wall session with campus. Just squeeze out 147 on the medium rungs but it doesn't feel clever. Manage one hardish problem ( the hardest since November)
T: easy weights at home
W: wall session with campus. Still broken from Monday, but a worthwhile session nonetheless
T: weights at home. Starting to feel a bit easier
F: rest
S: rest
S: campusy boulder session at home with the wee guy.

Happy to discover I weigh 61.5kg. Normally when I'm off form I discover that I'm light, but I'm about 3kg over my normal weight

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[Wood FT]

Mon -
Tue - Works, couldn't climb 100% so decided a good use of time would be to climb yellows as statically as possible in between coaching gf, enlightening.
Wed -
Thu - Foundry routes, still tender but managed 8 routes with the highlight being a new 7a on the right with a udge-udge rock over at the top. 6c bridging corner at the end had me throwing in the towel, ow.
Fri - Went to collect a bag I left so climbed for a bit, tried to climb on the wave with shark but could feel my ribs would mean he'd burn me off so retreated to auto-belays.
Sat - damn &
Sun - blast it

I hope my ribs feel better soon, currently coughing and laughing give a sharp pain, bugger.

[Nibile]

Mon - Aero Cap. Yes, you read it right, I trained something with Aero in front. Dumbbell complex, 2 mins dumbbell complex. Very tired. Forearm Doms.
Tue - rest. Amazing forearm Doms.
Wed - ab wheel, front levers, overhead barbell carry, shoulder barbell carry. Forearms getting better.
Thu - clean and press 5x5. Climbing class. Right shoulder a bit tweaky. Abs Doms.
Fri - rest. Abs Doms.
Sat - rest. Wine tasting.
Sun - board climbing. Excellent progress on current project. Strange story: I had this other problem with a nasty stop-move that I hadn't ever done in three years, involving a long move from a three fingers, half pad (if half...) crimp. So on my last session I decided that I'd better find an alternative and set a new sequence to tweak the problem so that it was still worth trying. The alternative seemed hard but doable. So, after the warm up and some recruitment I thought I'd give the original move a go with good skin and fresh fingers. Boom. Did it straight away. Schoolboy error: instead of sealing the deal, I tried the new problem, which is probably less precarious but physically harder. Genius. No success.
End of session, tried the move again: boom. Did it again and proceeded to climb the rest of the problem. Next time I'll add the start, it's three moves that take out a little bit from you and make the move quite spicy.
Good session.

[fatneck]

Bad week being ill and turning 40 (the turning 40 bit was alright, got spoilt rotten ) and having to spent most if the weekend completing an application form for a job I'm not sure I want...

Monday weight - 14st6.8lbs - another pound lost - still on track!

Mon - Pilates - not too bad but felt ill afterwards
Tue - walk to work but bus home, nothing else. 18oz Porterhouse steak out for tea Nomnomnom
Wed - went fishing all day, managed top break my trout PB twice in one day with a couple of monstrous fish - good but windy day. Felt beasted afterwards...
Thur - work insanely busy - walk to and from but nowt else
Fri - short session at the Hangar - did ok
Sat - application form. Comedy night in the evening. Good fun - no beer
Sun - application form and birthday meal with the whole family

So not a good work in terms of doing any training but the diet is clearly keeping the weight coming off despite the birthday excesses. Still not feeling 100%, hoping to get more done this week...

[tomtom]

What about me ?

He's blaming you for starting off all the 'Shark needs a Segway to get around his house' jokes..

I think he's missing a training trick:

[T_B]

84.5Kg

M - Foundry lunch - carefully doing Level 2s (x 5). Finger felt weak/vulnerable.
T - Foundry lunch - LI AeroCap. Finger felt better. P.M. School. Doing some assisted one-arm hangs open with 10Kg off. Some rings (inc offset pull ups). A little bit of bouldering on big holds.
W -
T - Foundry lunch - warming up sort of Aerocapping, testing finger, then light bouldering. Then some hangs - managed 1 x 5 x 7 front 2 in #7. Finger worse than it was? Might have overdone the deadhanging Tuesday night?
F - Foundry lunch - Level 2s x 5, finger less vulnerable than Monday. Then tried 5 x 7 sec front 2 hangs in #7 but failed on 3rd one. Probs not warmed up enough. Finger definitely felt better today.
S - A.m. run. 11.3Km / 200m of ascent. Eccy woods and up Limb Brook to Ringinglow and back.
S - School am. Mainly 50 degree. Could climb as long as not crimping, so did some stuff including being able to try Schoolboy. Some core exercises on the rings.

From thinking my finger was getting worse earlier in the week, to a definite improvement come Sunday. Psyched for running. Not a bad week of activity.

[nai]

Foundry lunch - carefully doing Level 2s (x 5).

Do you mean you did five level 2 problems or the whole L2 set five times?

[T_B]

Foundry lunch - carefully doing Level 2s (x 5).

Do you mean you did five level 2 problems or the whole L2 set five times?

Ha! Just 5 of them. A few crimps in there to avoid for me...

[nai]

Thought it'd be a bit much for a lunch time, saw Ben Moon do them all in about 10 minutes without breaking sweat a couple of weeks back but he is Ben Moon for a reason.

[T_B]

Thought it'd be a bit much for a lunch time, saw Ben Moon do them all in about 10 minutes without breaking sweat a couple of weeks back but he is Ben Moon for a reason.

Yeah that was him AeroCappin apparently

[tomtom]

M: Peak trip. Marginal connies. Went to BBG South - 'warmed up' on Attitude Inspector... fairly comfortably reached up and into the break on the 3rd attempt - for my hand to slip out on the layers of green slime that were in said break.. Lost alot of skin on 3 knuckles on the way down Then got pissed off looking for wet problems on the edge, went down to the boulders - that were damp - pulled on a few things and felt cold and hurty (for want of a better expression) so bailed out

Tu: Depot Manc.

We: Rest day (work)

Thu: Wilton 3 (I think) futile attempts at things on the Square... I think it was quite wet,..

Fri: Rest - did a load of press ups...

Sa: Back up to W3 with Andy Popp - good fun messing about on the Square in between snow showers! Surprisingly sheltered up there. Made some progress on Blind Flurry.

Su: Depot Manc - good session - caught up with Galpinos for first time in ages and met a few other folk I'd not seen for a while too. Good scenes.

Seem to be having a little flare up of Golfers elbow on my left side... though its hard to tell whats aggravating it or not. I think it may have been feeling worse this week as I clonked it climbing one time and have quite a big brruise there - so hard to tell whether its tendon pain or just the bruise being rubbed etc.. Also I've started doing loads of stretches and pressups (deep ones) and eccentrics to combat the Golfers - and I wonder if prodding other things into action in the elbow causes a little pain to start with. Its a funny one - today (for example) it feels 100% despite having doms in both arms from a moderately heavy session on Sunday... who knows...

[ashtond6]

Another frustrating week, think I'm still adjusting to a new routine

M - works, felt rough but did a couple of whites. 7A?
T - rest
W - works again as no Indoor partner, bad session again but did some good core work and power training
T - rest
F - rest
S - Burbage south freezing so went to Froggatt and connies were lovely. Got really close to Tombstone chipless static (7A+) but then it kept snowing grrr. Not too fussed though as I think I'd have got it. Soloed an amazing VS flake in the quarry by the road. Like a peak version of the pancake flake  so fun
S - short works session again. Climbed well - flashed loads of the new wasps circuit. Also checked out broomgrove

Seem to be climbing well, just feel like I've not done much for ages. Counting down the weeks until light nights and drier weather!

Anyone know the deal with broomgrove? Is it considered anti social? Since its in a very urban area