[Sasquatch]

M- 5/3/1 - 5xSquat, Max Hang, Stretching
T- Skate Ski 1hr20
W- Rest - Stretch and
T- Max Hangs-Lopez, Moonboard
F- 5/3/1 - 3xBench, Core, 2 x 20 ARC
S- 5/3/1 - 3xDL, Wtd Pullups, MED Hangs.   Hungover, but got the workout done despite incredibly LOW motivation.
S- Soccer game

Good week over all.  started dropping the holiday bonus, still a long way to go though.   

[webbo]

Mon. Turbo 40 mins.
Tue. Board did a couple of new things quickly ran out of power.
Wed. Board did a few new things struggling as I now have cold.
Thu. Weights.
Fri. Nothing other than 30 mins of stuff for the sharkathon.
Sat. Board struggling at first worked and did 2 problems mirror image of each other just using specific footholds and flagging inside right toe go with left hand etc. I struggle with these moves, kept having one last go so did quite a lot.
Sun. Weights did a few more exs and a few deadlifts. Bike 40.30 miles 2 hrs 29 mins freezing.

[shark]

I went to Chulilla last January for a week with Paul Reeve. Loved the place but hadn’t done any stamina work prior and was duly spanked failing to onsight or redpoint 7b+ though onsighting a couple of 7b’s. This time round bigger team (Paul, Keith Sharples, Steve Mac, Tim Gould and Jack Gould) and also a decent amount of stamina preparation on the systems board. Staying at Hostal El Pozo which is a restaurant with a few rooms above just off the town square run by a lovely couple. Steve ended up being my roomie though ended up partnering with Paul for the climbing.

M. Mid afternoon flight from Liverpool to Alicante then a 3 or 4 hour drive to Chulilla getting in at 11pm

T.  Not as chilly as last year but still not warm. Went to the shaded Oasis sector and we started with a classic 7a wall climb “Plan Z”. Duncan Critchley turned up nursing bandaged fingers. I then put then led a 7a just to the right called “Cap I Cua” and gamely looked at the 7c extension but was spat off at the first bolt. Paul then had a go and had a hard time but dogged his way to the top. Moving slightly further right again into the Les Chererros (Mega Tufa sector) we did another outstanding wall climb “Richer Line” 7a then equally good though steeper “Camino de Leche” 7a+ then Senderosa Luminosa (L1) 7a+. I then had a go at Los Merenderas 7b but was tired and had sore tips (despite antihydraling over the previous few days) and came off the low thin moves which I guess were the crux. Paul then led it clean. Everyone except Keith was ready to go but despite it being the end of the first day he was scoping the guidebook for a another lead  I walked back on my own rather than freeze my nuts off on the ledge and was rewarded with a pleasant trip that took me along the rim of the gorge. Great start to the trip. (Onsight 2x7a, 2x7a+)

W. Team decision to go somewhere warmer. I had an unwelcome email from a client and a confrontational telephone conversation at 8am so was in foul mood at breakfast. Ended up walking out on my own with a head full of work issues and finding myself walking the wrong way up the Gorge. Sorted myself out and went to Sex Shop secor where Keith and Steve where but no sign of Paul who they’d lost en route. I didn’t mind too much as I was so fucked off anyway I had no appetite for climbing at that point. Then Patter and family rocked up and shortly after Paul who was not as sheepish as he should have been. We all did Panza Con Panza 6c+ as a warm up which was better than it looked then took advantage of Steve having left his draws in for us on the towering 60m “Diagonal” 7a. This blocky crack and groove goes the full height of the crag and felt so traddy that I had to remind myself not to be scared. By the time I’d finished I didn’t care a hoot about the work bollocks. Nick de Beast and BMC Dan had appeared by then. Paul wanted to go back to the Diedros sector which I was dubious about as I found it chossy last year. I belayed him on a 7b but declined the lead. We went to the next sector the popular Lamentacions and  I had sudden urge to do more climbing despite sore tips and did two shorter fingery routes with unpronounceable names at 7a and 7a+ then a classy longer 7a Blue Agave in failing light which normally as a queue of people on it.

T.  We thought Canaberal would be a good sunny place to start. Did a shonky short 6a+ that I don’t know the name of and then an OK ad unlikely looking 7a Ansia. It was a little humid and the crag has a greasy feel anyway. Steve then led a stupendous 45m 7b+ Gran Dinosaurio Blanco which went through some amazing territory and hand been recommended to me by Toby as a must-do route. As the clips were in I unconfidently had a go but made good progress trying to conserve energy. Near the top I had to use a bit of power to gain a flat hold on a nose then started pumping, Clipped the final bolt with a situ wire draw but got a massive pump on and fell off a few moves shy of the belay      I felt I deserved something for doing 42m of hard climbing and tried to convince myself that Steve had gone too high but then Paul did it fine. We headed up the gorge to join Patter at sector Nanopark. He was just finishing Segul Alutin 7b which pronounced good but piss (some things never change) but mentioned that Pedro Pons (no intro required) had said that the 7b+ to the left Gofia Askatu was the best of its grade in Chulilla so I jumped on that. It was satisfyingly technical with some whacky moves and I surprised myself by onsighting it which made up for the Dinosaur debacle. Paul declined. We both then did the 7b on Patter’s draws and it was ace and not piss at all.

F. Amazingly the whole team, Paul included, decided a rest day was in order. They went off to do a Via Ferrata and other stuff and Keith and I did a mornings work and had lunch. They came back in the afternoon and we all had a wander round the fort

S. I’d set my sights on doing Super Zeb a stunning 7c corner I spotted the previous trip so the intention was to do that. Whole team went up to Oasis and me and Paul quested right wards to Masters which is still being developed. We started with an amazing 6b+ Peli Chi at the far right end which was one of the best routes of the trip A 6c to the left was a bit disappointing by comparison. Bumped into Dave and Rhian Cross who I’d not seen for a decade or more as they now lived out in Spain at Castillon near Valencia. Dave gave us the lowdown on some of the development and recommended a new 7a+ Serenguette which we did and featured a 6b crack leading to superb steep climbing into a final headwall. Back then to Cherreros to join the others. A 7b was free and had a 7c extension and a foreign climber recommended it saying that if you could do the 7b start you should be able to do the 7c extension which sounded intriguing. Tentaviely led up the 7b pitch and went into the wrong tufa at the crux. To regain the crux I had to do a balancey and powerful layaway to gain a huge undercut in the original groove then jump both feet across to the groove Works stylee – then do the crux large undercut move. Got to the belay and the etension was two fairly parallel rounded tufas going on forever. This succumbed to all manner of trad technique including arm-bars and back and footing mainly udging up with the right shoulder. This was exhausting work and I concentrated on just getting to the next bolt and milking any half-rest wherever I could and after an age got to the belay at 50m, \o/  Paul then did it and in a slightly euphoric state and tired arms did Bicho bola 7b which was spookily run out. One of my best sport climbing days ever. Much joy and some drinking that night.               

S. Legs felt tired walking in for a belated go at Super Zeb. Paul lead a long route that got progressively harder as a warm up which transpired to be 7a+. I led to the top crux than started to get pumped and sat on the bolt. I then belayed Paul as he onsighted Super Zeb. Rating my odds fairly low of doing the same I decided to call it a day to allow enough rest for a decent go tomorrow - the last day. Wish me luck !

[Muenchener]

Good luck Shark!

STG (January): sharkathon; onsight 6b+ on plastic
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

Sharkathon Day 4: Wall, Boulderwelt. 7b circuit redpoint victory snatched from the jaws of the routesetters. Afterwards did 3 x 70 moves easy but pumpy circuits: not sure if this counts as high end aerocap or medium-intensity junk mileage? Probably the latter.
Weighted pull-ups 4 x 3 x 16kg, failed on last rep
I-Y-T’s for shoulder health, as recommended by Alexes Megos and Puccio
Sharkathon Day 5: Mobility, kettlebell TGUs & swings 30 mins.
Sharkathon Day 6: Wall, Thalkirchen. Nine routes to 6b+, with the focus on steep jug pulling. I have confidence problems on this and should therefore do more of it.

From  Will Anglin's blog

You probably know someone who feels comfortable climbing on vertical walls, but as soon as there is a roof or the wall starts to kick back, they flail. The most common reaction to this is “I can’t do overhangs, they’re too hard” and they go right back to the vertical climbs. Seemingly in the hopes that, on some magical day, overhangs will become “easy”.

Indeed I do. But not any more.

Sharkathon Day 7: 40 minutes core, wrist extensors, elbows (hammer curls), shoulders (kb press).
Sharkathon Day 8: Beastmaker max hangs. Used the shallow 2 fingers for the first time; felt risky. In general not a strong session.
Sharkathon Day 9: Streaming nose and sneezing violently all day. Cold or allergy? Not sure. Just about remained on the wagon by means of a token 40 minutes stretching in the evening.
Sharkathon Day 10: Nose behaving better. Wall, Boulderwelt. Following Sasq's recommendation for a proper strength session by trying single moves that feel ridiculous. I suspect I usually don't try hard enough at bouldering; having moves go from ridiculous to merely desperate is a good feeling.
Weighted pull-ups 4 x 3 x 16kg, felt easy.

[36chambers]

STG: Dialectics 8A
MTG:Training plan for Font
LTG: 8B

M: Lunch time yoga. Depot, good AnCap session.
T:
W: Tek Noe board session
T:
F: Almscliff lamp session. Excellent conditions. Dialectics, reached the break! Which meant Font 4 climbing left to the top. Forgot the sequence, hesitated, foot popped, fingers slowly uncurled, thud. Not today.     
S:
S: Brimham was wet. Almscliff. Wasn't planning on trying Dialectics but got on it anyway and eventually sent! YYFY!!    . Pointless, eliminate, link up, at the cliff for my first of the grade, of course

[tomtom]

Excellent 36! 8AAAAAAAAAAAA.

And good times Shark.

[tomtom]

10:10-12

M: New Manchester Depot. Decided to get a 3 month pass - partly as I prefer to do lots of smaller wall sessions than fewer long ones - see how that pays off. Trashed after an hour

T: Rest

W: Depot. Lasted a bit more than an hour... LH elbow feeling a bit tweaky...
Th:

Fri: Peak. Sketchy forecast - chanced it. Went to BBG West with intention of working some more on West Side Story. Surprised myself by getting to the porthole on my second go. Next hold up (good sloper at base of flake) was green and a bit squirmy - decided it wasnt a day for top out heroics (on my own and one pad etc..). Decided to get some more miles on it instead. From 6 attempts got the porthole twice and held 3rd sidepull 3 times (including two porthole times..) - I seem to be holding the minging mono of hell a bit differently and getting something from my back 3 on the LH side of the hold that I wasnt before - that seems to make a difference. Went and had a play on Blind Date (which I'm normally hopeless on) and made some progress.

Sa: Depot. MrsTT was visiting the Traffordium Centre, so I cadged a lift there and back. Worked on verticals this time to give my elbow a rest.

Su: Popped into Depot to say hello to Stubbs, 3T and a few others before heading off to Wilton 1 - where nearly everything was wet apart from the Graveyard. Came closeish to the odd 7A there - RMan came along to watch.. nice little session.

All good - really surprised at WSS progress & I don't feel any great urgency to top it out now.. it can wait for a decent day.. Left elbow has been a wee bit tweaky (is outside - lower - through the groove thing golfers or tennis?) which I suspect is due to the big moves, big overhangs, long problems at the Depot (which I'm not used to). Seems fine today, so probably just a bit of careful management and do some antagonistic exercises (which I never normally do.).

[Muenchener]

M: New Manchester Depot. Decided to get a 3 month pass - partly as I prefer to do lots of smaller wall sessions than fewer long ones - see how that pays off. Trashed after an hour

I just got an annual pass for one of my local walls. They are doing "buy an adult pass, get a child free" deal. I don't need the free child as I'm quite content with the one I already have, but I can always put the new one on ebay My lad is filled with bouldering enthusiasm at the moment and I obviously I want to encourage this as much as possible. I just hope it's a lasting state of affairs and not something that tails off as soon as he hits the first plateau and it all gets a bit frustrating.

[ashtond6]

M - started new job, loving it
T - routes at Aw, onsighted first 7a. Was gonna just do 6b's to get into routes again, onsighted all at 6a, 6b, 6a, 6b, 6b+, 7a, 6b+, 6c, 6b+, 6b. Pleased with this as I fond indoors really hard
W - rest
T - totally spanked foundry wave session
F - rest
S - new mills, did 1 6C+, 2 6Cs and 6B. Spent ages trying an 'impossible' 6B+ until we realised a giant section had come off!
S - chilled day, went to the moor above millstone. Couldn't do a 6A, did some fun stuff at owler tor and enjoyed Conan on Mother cap

[Nibile]

STG - board projects.

Mon - crimp session. Added 2 kg to routine. Brilliant. Ab wheel. Brutal.
Tue - rest. Doms.
Wed - climbing at Filz's. Didn't manage my project. Big volume. Doms.
Thu - weights and climbing class. Tired.
Fri - 100 power cleans, 50 snatch pulls. Phew.
Sat - rest. Amazing traps Doms. Fantastic.
Sun - traps Doms, board climbing. My board. Managed good links on current project, rehearsed the second part because soon enough I'll stick the crux and will motor to the top. One good go from start. Tired. Dumbbell complex static x2, I was scared before starting but I was strong. Happy and exhausted. Must taper volume, I can't go pedal to the metal all the time. Or can I?

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

M: Rain. Stretching and theraband work.
T: Drove back to Sydney in arvo and then went straight to work for the night. Proper work out.
W: St Leonards. Flashed 13/15 of the new problems. 14 should've flashed and did 2nd go and then 15 took a bunch of working with a very droppable last move but got it. First time I've done all the new stuff in a session. Did feel they were all abit easy though. Came up with new hard problems that I can't do yet...
T: Theraband work.
F: Frontline night session. So close to doing If The Shoe Fits V8 and bunch more throws at Rocket Man. Finish session lapping Sloper-Dan Milosevic V5 and Boogie Knights V7.
S: Theraband shit.
S: Crumbly. Too hot, spoogey, still seeping. Standard. Jumped back on Sushi Train V8, still not worked out the last move. The worked Life Changes V10, all moves bar 2 (obv the hard ones...). Then end of session decided to try Anorexic Extension. Anorexic classic V5, extension goes for another few metres and gets V7. Did the extension moves but then too gassed to link from start. Kinda long and burly......
Short session at St Leonards in evening. Lapped new panel bar hardest prob. Abit of campussing and fingerboard after.

[duncan]

STG: rehab. finger
MTG: tbc according to finger recovery
LTG: the usual

S - Chulilla - Cherales. A gentle introduction away from the gorge proper.
S - Chulilla - Peneta. Old school sector. Over-did things a little.
M - Chulilla - Oasis. The real thing and mobbed. Numerous expected (shark  ) and unexpected friends and acquaintances in attendance. Cold, windy, finger hurty. Didn’t climb.
T - Finger still hurty. Another rest day.
W - Chulilla - Lamentaciones. Most of El infierno de las hortalizas, bailed at the top overhang where it got a bit brutish, ~6b up to there. Tried Las Lituanas, far too cruxy.
T - Chulilla - Fantasia. Another punter’s sector, 4 routes to 6a+, that’s more like it.
F - Rest day. Hearty hike up the hill above Losa del Obispo.
S - Chulilla - Lamentaciones. El Ramalito-Las Lituanas combination, a good warm-up at ~6a+ avoiding the unbalanced crux of Las Lituanas. Yorkshire Pudding 6b. Had to retreat to a hands-off at one point due to lower-off congestion but pleased to have done this.
S - Flew home. Car hire people didn’t note chipped windscreen  , flight was on-time, and all luggage arrived in 15 minutes. 

Enjoyed Chulilla. I nearly bailed (for a second time) but glad I went, psyche and body both better for getting out of London. Considering the state of my finger, the climbing went quite well. Made a half-pipe splint from bamboo and climbed on one-and-a-half hands.

It is curious how popular Chulilla has become again. The good sectors were unpleasantly crowded at times, though by the second weekend it was a little quieter. This has not been lead by famous wads doing hard routes nor is the climbing modern in style. The low altitude and mild climate are factors and it is quite an attractive area; it's like the ‘Blanca for people with better taste. Great for oldies like me, bolted Pembroke: softish grades, long, vertical and techy.

Continue with finger rehab. Almost certain it’s a collateral ligament tear; still feels like a 3 month job.

[Luke Owens]

Trip sounds awesome Shark, good luck with the last day!

36chambers: Strong effort! Great milestone!

[Luke Owens]

Still having problems with my wrist this week. Pain seems to be on the radial side inbetween the bone and the tendon just below my thumb.

Found a few climbing related things on line and symptons suggest it might be "De Quervain's Tenosynovitis" anyone had this before and know how long it took to go away? I've had it a few weeks. I'm still climbing on it as it's not too bad once warmed up. Internet seems to suggest the usual ice and ibuprofen. I think there's possibly something on it in McLeod's new book which I don't have?

Anyway; started week 1 of my training plan with 2 goals of doing LWT in the Cave and Flowers are for the Dead at Dinbren by the end of March (conditions allowing for the Dinbren goal)

M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks
5 x 10sec Spiderman
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks

T: Lunch - 3 x 10 Press ups
3 x 10 Shoulder Raises (5kg)
3 x 10sec (To failure) L-Hangs
6 x 5 Off-set pull ups (Alternate arms)
5 x 10 Dorsal Raises

Eve: Plas Power - 25 min traverse ARC warm-up
20' Board - Did new 6A, 6A+ and 6C. Repeated 6B+ and 6C.

AnCap on 20' Board - 15 move circuit x 8 reps (2.5 min rest between reps) - Powered out on move 13 of reps 7 & 8.

Had time to spare but drained after AnCap circuit so held static positions and tried individual moves on 45' board. Too powered out to link anymore than a couple of moves.

W: Rest

T: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
-
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks
-
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
-
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks
-
50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)

Eve: Plas Power - 25min traverse ARC warm-up

20' Board - Repeated: 5+, 6A+, 6B+
New: 6C (Took a few goes anti-style slopers/pinches)
Re-made replica of Dinbren project crux and worked it a bit, footholds need tweaking slightly.

45' Board - Repated 6B+ then worked on crux move of new project, hard controlled cut loose on narrow pinchy edges. Worked really well trying the move then timing a 2min rest between goes. Managed to stick it after ~8 goes and go to the top, need to link in the 3 starting moves next session.

AnCap on 20' Board - 15 move circuit x 9 reps (2.5 min rest between reps) - Didn't power out on reps 7 & 8 this time so did an extra rep with only 1 min rest before it and still didn't power out, felt like I was on the verge of powering out though. Reduce the overall rest time next week to 2mins or make circuit harder?

F: Rest

S: Cave - Felt pretty rubbish/weak warming up but once warm felt good. Short term goal ticked by doing LWT from the Horizontal Shothole (7A). Felt hard previously but sorted all kinds of micro beta which helped. Did the 4 moves from the proper start too and managed to link them into the a few moves on the shothole start at the end of the session. Just need to link in the 4 hard moves into the whole thing now.

S: Rest

[Wood FT]

S: Cave - Felt pretty rubbish/weak warming up but once warm felt good. Short term goal ticked by doing LWT from the Horizontal Shothole (7A). Felt hard previously but sorted all kinds of micro beta which helped. Did the 4 moves from the proper start too and managed to link them into the a few moves on the shothole start at the end of the session. Just need to link in the 4 hard moves into the whole thing now.

Sounds promising Luke

[Falling Down]

STG (end Jan): Rebuild base (route and bouldering pyramids) do a load of good routes and have fun in El Chorro.
MTG (end Mar): weight 78kg, do a load of good routes in Siurana/Monsant - Flash a 7A whilst there.

M - Driving back from Wales
T - wall 8 routes TRself belay to 5
W - wall 12 routes TR self belay to 5+
T - wall 9 routes TR self belay to 6a
F - Hungover/tired from works' leaving drinks
S - 24 problems up to V2/3
S - rest

Really enjoyed starting climbing again after such a long (2.5 years) layoff. Being really careful as my weight is way up and I'm weak and unfit so a cautious approach needed.  Really looking forward to the two trips away.

Duncan/Shark - great trip reports... Habrich - not jealous at all..

[Luke Owens]

STG (end Jan): Rebuild base (route and bouldering pyramids) do a load of good routes and have fun in El Chorro.
MTG (end Mar): weight 78kg, do a load of good routes in Siurana/Monsant - Flash a 7A whilst there.

M - Driving back from Wales
T - wall 8 routes TRself belay to 5
W - wall 12 routes TR self belay to 5+
T - wall 9 routes TR self belay to 6a
F - Hungover/tired from works' leaving drinks
S - 24 problems up to V2/3
S - rest

Really enjoyed starting climbing again after such a long (2.5 years) layoff. Being really careful as my weight is way up and I'm weak and unfit so a cautious approach needed.  Really looking forward to the two trips away.

Duncan/Shark - great trip reports... Habrich - not jealous at all..

Welcome back, looks like you've got some good trips coming up!

[T_B]

MTG Mar): weight 78kg, do a load of good routes Siurana/Monsant - Flash a 7A

Tikis Mikis at Siurana is a fantastic trad groove corner @ 7a. Suits those who like bridging and the odd jam, plus it has rests. Did it yesterday - highly recommended.

[andy_e]

Almscliff. Wasn't planning on trying Dialectics but got on it anyway and eventually sent! YYFY!!    .

 

Will Hunt thinks it's 6B+ though.

[tomtom]

:D

[webbo]

Only if your strict 6a+ if you use everything.

[36chambers]

Almscliff. Wasn't planning on trying Dialectics but got on it anyway and eventually sent! YYFY!!    .

Will Hunt thinks "it's only 6B+ though and even easier if you're short..."

Classic Will.

[Mumra]

Almscliff. Wasn't planning on trying Dialectics but got on it anyway and eventually sent! YYFY!!    .

Will Hunt thinks "it's only 6B+ though and even easier if you're short..."

Classic Will.

At least there's no chance of him doing it for the downgrade. Good effort 36chambers, keelhaul next?

[the_dom]

STG: Get weight back to pre-holiday weight, Sharkathon compliance.

Mon: Hangboard - one arm hangs, repeaters and pinch block strength test.
Tues: AM Hangboard - F3 strength test, PM one arm hangs and core.
Wed: Bouldering (indoors)
Thurs: 90 min hike in the forest
Fri: Hangboard - B3 strength test, 5 x F3 max hangs
Sat: Bouldering (outdoors) - repeatedd a few things up to 7A+ish.
Sun: Slow trail run.

On track with both the weight and the Sharkathon compliance after quite a heavy week last week. It's also bloody hot here, which doesn't help.

[T_B]

84.6Kg

M - Repeaters. Managed 3 x 6 x 7 front 3 and back 3 with 2 mins rest between sets. Tried half crimp on 15mm edge but skin too sore. Relieved that overall fingers felt OK. Rings - various inc offset pull ups.
T - 40th birthday 
W - School lunch. Bit of light bouldering, felt reasonably strong and light surprisingly. Fingers felt OK.
T -
F - 4.30am wake up for drive to Manc and flight to Barcelona. 2pm arrive at Siurana and head to L'Olla. Warm up on the right on a 6b, which Mrs T_B gets flashed pumped on. Do the 7a to the right. Then a 7a+ right of Bistec that I'd remembered reading was fairly fierce. It was, but went OK and fingers felt good in the pockets. Jumped on Bistec and pulled through the start no problem, then get a bit lost up high so all a bit shaky but reached the belay and lowered off. Had a look at La Cara etc from the ground but having just walked past El Pati etc can't say I was feeling the psyche for shortness. Headed to Cornudella and nice apartment.
S - Friend Lynne suggested we head over to Margalef as forecast better there, plus on Tuesday a mate had said we must go to Espadelles if we do go to Margalef. So we're driven over in Lynne's car along the windy road. Arrive and it's still beanie weather but by the time I've warmed up on a 6c+ the sun is burning off the cloud. The rest of the day is just one of those unforgettable, incredible days. Climbing in vests in the sun but the rock isn't greasy. The odd bit of light breeze and views to die for. Heaven! And the crag looks amazing. I do a 7a+ that's supposed to be hard for the grade then Lynne suggests a 7b+ further right, but someone's on it. So I decide to try Artisans (7c). I nearly cock up a clip low down but just keep pulling and soon enough I'm on a headwall not too pumped suprisingly. Once I have a big pocket I know I'm in. Fab! It's now pretty hot, so we chill for a bit then my guide suggests Malasombra (7c+) as the clips are in. It looks pretty basic so off I go getting through the bottom to a trad-style rest half way up. Managing to recover enough I push onto the headwall and keep pulling to arrive at the top. Pysched. The others do some more routes, we watch Iker Pou on something hard, then I wonder whether or not to try something else or save myself. El Sistema looked amazing in that it follows a pockety wall then gets into a proper feature. So, late on I have a blast putting the clips in. Get wrong handed low down but keep laying them on and get into the crack feature. But it's too steep for a boulderer to recover so I just keep pulling. Below the last bolt there's a pod where the fit could rest but my forearms are blown and so I'm off two moves after leaving the pod. But what an amazing route and I'm grinning from ear to ear.
S - Lynne recommends Siuranella Sud for the views and once again it's another stunning day. We get up there around midday and do a 6a warm up. The 7a I fancy the look of has someone on it, so I do a bit of warming up at the base of the crag and jump on the classic 7a+ Si vas niquel fas tard. Wonderful techy climbing and a bit runout. A guy is on Memorias de una Sepia (famous 8a) so I watch him on the moves and decide to have a go, hoping for a quick RP. I fall off at the initial bulge as by this point it's baking hot and I can't hold onto the slopey crimps. Work the rest and then wait for it to cool off. At 4pm the cloud rolls in and the temp drops. I watch the guy on the initial bulge as I hadn't worked a sequence for this. He has a go but runs out of steam and kindly puts my draws in. I set off and manage to blag it through the bulge and get to the semi rest. Then I just press on up the crimps with skin peeling off. There's a tricky clip up high but I recruit some finger strength, make the clip and manage to get onto easier ground. Then I actually recover, as it's not too steep. There's a move up high but it's fine and I can enjoy the rest of the pitch. Lynne then redpoints the 7a+ so team sends all round. As the light is fading I do the 7a crack/groove which is a brilliant way to finish the day as it's not fingery and just enjoyable traddy climbing, about E3 6a.

We were amazingly lucky with the unseasonably warm weather in Spain. Headed home Monday am in the end, so no climbing Monday. In the end didn't want to get on something too hard/short just for the grade tick, as so many routes to do and what with a 7c+ O/S and a 8a RP pretty chuffed anyway with how I got on, despite only having done a bit of AeroCap training. Circuits and fingerboarding are definitely beneficial, especially at Margalef where the routes aren't  too long, the climbing felt very basic and you could just pull and climb quickly. Happy 40th to me!