[tomtom]

Hello,
Made some surprising progress on this today (probably because it was cold and overcast, rather than cold and sunny)

But my question is... toe or heel...

In all the video beta its all toes...
but today a heel just seemed to go on there nicely - and I tickled the next hold...

[r-man]

Toe, but front-point as much as possible. That's what made it click for me anyway.

[mark20]

Even if you get the first slot with a heel I think it would make the next two slaps with the RH much harder.
A down turned shoe made the difference for me. Press the toe down into the hold and get your knee over it

[Johnny Brown]

Try with the big toe knuckle rather than the toe end.

[tomtom]

Cheers all - I'll try with the toe next time. I can very much see how that helps with next move. Being lanky I could very nearly get the break hold with a tippy toe still on the bottom bulge - which may explain why it felt better with a heel than toe (ie I didnt need to flag under with RL).

TBH, its the first time I've felt 'solid' (very much in quotes..) on it - and was just working what felt right at the time.. Normally I get to the problem at the end of a session feeling trashed - so was nice to be feeling quite strong on it..

[Jim]

spent far too long on that bit of rock. As Johnny said get the side of the toe right on the good bit, weight it well and rock over enough so you can reach the break, then when in position do a full body smear against the rock and reach for the break. It's not over there tho.....
I always had to put a little tick mark on the best bit of the foothold as its quite small and I always found it hard to see exactly where it was

[dave]

Toe, without a doubt. And properly roll onto it. If you play your cards right you can leave it there for the next 3 moves.

[Mumra]

I find a heel and then right toe on the ledge in the roof. Then static the next 2 moves #birdbeta

[tomtom]

Racks memory for ledge in the roof... I'll have to go back..

[Mumra]

It's pretty obvious. It works with left heel or toe on,just squeeze

[a dense loner]

I think what mumra is trying to describe as the ledge in the roof is probably best described as the massive unmissable ledge in the roof

[r-man]

...How many people do the final rockover to the higher break? Most of the vids show people traversing off from the lip jug (which I did as well, thinking that was the end).

[tomtom]

I think what mumra is trying to describe as the ledge in the roof is probably best described as the massive unmissable ledge in the roof

I've not been there enough to have a mental picture of it.. Apart from the one your hands start on..

[Mumra]

I think what mumra is trying to describe as the ledge in the roof is probably best described as the massive unmissable ledge in the roof

He's right. It's a 1d problem tbh

[T_B]

Well I thought I'd seen it all. A heelhook on Blind Date? Bizarre.

[dave]

To be fair, a heel can work, but it's on a totally different foothold and the only person I've seen do it that way was Huffy.



Top rockover: I do it occasionally, but I don't think its especially nice or in keeping with the rest of the problem or adds any quality. Doesn't feel that logical either, if anything it makes it feel more obvious that you're traversing off half way up a route than the lower finish does IMHO.

Also a nasty fall if you tipple off, esp without spotters. Understandably unpopular.

[Johnny Brown]

...How many people do the final rockover to the higher break?

Everybody who wants a tick. Obviously most people have done it before so don't bother.

I think what mumra is trying to describe as the ledge in the roof is probably best described as the massive unmissable ledge in the roof

No idea what either of you mean. There is a ledge on the back wall, or the rail below the lip you start off. How big is Mumra?

[Mumra]

I'm 5.4. The hold is in the roof near Huffy's right knee. It's sort of
Rectangular shape iirc

I'm struggling to think of a problem on Peak gritstone that doesn't need or can help with a heel 


The top rock over is not very pleasant and doesn't really add much

[masonwoods101]

Only left heel hooks help on grit. Never seen a right heel hook on grit...

[nic mullin]

Toe for me too. I find that pasting my right foot sideways on nothing in particular on the underside of the roof and squeezing my legs together helps to get more out of the foothold.

For the move to the sloper, going to the higher left side of the sloper with left hand as if you're about to do blind fig (rather than the closer bit with the divot/pebble which is ticked in Dave's pic) is a bigger move but requires less accuracy - doesn't make much difference to difficulty, but means less wasted goes not getting the divot nicely. I don't bother with any intermediate pebbles but some find they help, either for getting the sloper or getting the second slot hold with your right hand.

The move from the slots to the hold over the next roof is blind and quite droppable. I hop my left foot up and rightwartds to an obvious polished pebble for this. You can cross through all the way to the jug rail right of the right hand slot but purists may suck their teeth at you.

As above, I did the top rockover for the tick and haven't bothered since.

[tomtom]

Cheers Nic - I found the ripple to the left of the divot/pebble worked better for me anyway (and easier to get right despite being further). Was good Connies though.

[andy_e]

Only left heel hooks help on grit. Never seen a right heel hook on grit...

Head to the cliff...

[r-man]

Only left heel hooks help on grit. Never seen a right heel hook on grit...

Assuming you are talking about the peak... Sean's Arete, Suavito, Beneath The Breadline, Green Traverse!, Monochrome, Boyager, Drop Your Weapons, Heavy Sky, Golden Egg...etc. etc.

[dave]

Green Traverse!

Back around.

[r-man]

I knew someone would bite.

[a dense loner]

full power, backstreet mime artist etc,etc

[tomtom]

Green Traverse!

Back around.

It's a separate problem with heels. Robins reach.

[masonwoods101]

Silk sit, can right heel on marks, zaffs stuff at burb north, western eyes? I may have been wrong. Still though reckon more left heels in all....

[a dense loner]

Name and shame these left heels man! Memories going can't think of any at mo

[dave]

I don't think there's more left than right heelhooks, but there are a hell of a lot of left heels on classics and well known traverses, especially in the 7b-7b range.

A few obvious left heels are gorilla warfare, terrace, blind date, captain hook, bens reverse, zippys traverse, velvet krab, western eyes, that slopey traverse on the freestanding block near hampers hang (mistaken identity?), trackside, stanage bad landing traverse, purple haze, marks roof LH etc etc

[r-man]

Green Traverse!

Back around.

I knew someone would bite.

It's a separate problem with heels. Robins reach.

This hook has mileage.

For the record, don't think I have ever done it with a heel. Would probably make it two grades harder for me.

[r-man]

I don't think there's more left than right heelhooks, but there are a hell of a lot of left heels on classics and well known traverses, especially in the 7b-7b range.

A few obvious left heels are gorilla warfare, terrace, blind date, captain hook, bens reverse, zippys traverse, velvet krab, western eyes,a case of mistaken identity, trackside, stanage bad landing traverse*, purple haze, marks roof LH etc etc

I agree, there are a loads. Bit odd though that you've listed a few problems where heels make little difference.

* I assume you mean that 6C thing that Airlie Anderson once did an extension to.
http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/1-stanage-plantation/boulders/24-steep-boulder/problems/105-steep-traverse#.VpPJU_mLSds

[dave]

Sorry typed blind date but was thinking brad pit.

Gorilla warfare I stand by. Easiest way by far is with correct use of left heel, and by weight of numbers seems to be the normal sequence.

[r-man]

Fair enough. I tend to think of heel-dependent problems as ones where heels can't be avoided, rather than those with heel beta which some people find easier. I only heel hook if I can't avoid it as most shoes peel off my feet when I heel hook.

[a dense loner]

God i can't believe i couldn't think of a single left heel. Top tip; don't get older

[Johnny Brown]

I can't think of a single problem where heels can't be avoided. This is a very silly thread. And those keep left signs are very poorly made.

[Mumra]

I can't think of a single problem where heels can't be avoided. This is a very silly thread. And those keep left signs are very poorly made.

Did I not say this originally?

I think most of the difficult heels are with the left (in the peak) . Obviously you can use your right Or left on most problems, bbut the ones that take real skill Brad Pitt, terrace, storm etc. Are all lefts. Anyway grit is all about heels, being tall and weak 

R-man. I've watched a few of your videos and it seems that your legs are the last thing in contact with the rock, so your opinion is invalid

[lagerstarfish]

God i can't believe i couldn't think of a single left heel. Top tip; don't get older

does it feel like your head is running out of space to store stuff?

[tomtom]

Nothing a few laps of Waitrose wouldn't cure.

[masonwoods101]

  but can we have a left vs right heel thread....

[Mumra]

but can we have a left vs right heel thread....

Best thread idea of 2016

[a dense loner]

Not just 2016!

[tomtom]

but can we have a left vs right heel thread....

Best thread idea of 2016

Sounds like it needs a poll...

[masonwoods101]

If you had to lose a heel which one?

[lagerstarfish]

I'd choose one of Jaspers

[tomtom]

If you had to lose a heel which one?

I'd choose one of Lagers

[lagerstarfish]

we could stack all the lost heels up by the Plantation car park in a killing fields stylee

[tomtom]

we could stack all the lost heels up by the Plantation car park in a killing fields stylee

They wouldnt look as good as skulls though would they - it'd just be a fetid mess of bits of bone and gristle.. with the odd steel plate here and there..

[SA Chris]

Impressive. A page of discussion and nobody has said healhook.

[masonwoods101]

A field of useless right HEALS

[tomtom]

The killing healds...

[tomtom]

Had another session on this today - in good though slightly brutal conditions...

I changed where I put my right foot on the back wall - to about 15-20cm to the left of the most obvious place - and this free'd up a bit more hip/leg room to get my toe on comfortably. So as many suggested getting my toe right on the side of the big toe worked really well. I wasn't in great shape, but when the toe was on properly it all locked into place and I could start to move up to the hold. Of course I didnt get up to the hold, but it all felt like it would work well on a better day.

Whilst we're in the remergence area - I've been pissing about with Submergence (tall persons way) and is there anything to the final (crux) move - the slap/throw up and left to the slot? Or is it just a basic (and not especially pleasant) throw up to it?

[a dense loner]

No it's just a basic unpleasant thrutchy move unfortunately

[tomtom]

No it's just a basic unpleasant thrutchy move unfortunately

Cheers - I might not give it too much attention then - more interesting things to try.

[Mumra]

No it's just a basic unpleasant thrutchy move unfortunately

Do you even climb/lift? Only joking, I love a man with a tiny head and a big thingy