[tomtom]

Hello,
Made some surprising progress on this today (probably because it was cold and overcast, rather than cold and sunny)

But my question is... toe or heel...

In all the video beta its all toes...
but today a heel just seemed to go on there nicely - and I tickled the next hold...

[r-man]

Toe, but front-point as much as possible. That's what made it click for me anyway.

[mark20]

Even if you get the first slot with a heel I think it would make the next two slaps with the RH much harder.
A down turned shoe made the difference for me. Press the toe down into the hold and get your knee over it

[Johnny Brown]

Try with the big toe knuckle rather than the toe end.

[tomtom]

Cheers all - I'll try with the toe next time. I can very much see how that helps with next move. Being lanky I could very nearly get the break hold with a tippy toe still on the bottom bulge - which may explain why it felt better with a heel than toe (ie I didnt need to flag under with RL).

TBH, its the first time I've felt 'solid' (very much in quotes..) on it - and was just working what felt right at the time.. Normally I get to the problem at the end of a session feeling trashed - so was nice to be feeling quite strong on it..

[Jim]

spent far too long on that bit of rock. As Johnny said get the side of the toe right on the good bit, weight it well and rock over enough so you can reach the break, then when in position do a full body smear against the rock and reach for the break. It's not over there tho.....
I always had to put a little tick mark on the best bit of the foothold as its quite small and I always found it hard to see exactly where it was

[dave]

Toe, without a doubt. And properly roll onto it. If you play your cards right you can leave it there for the next 3 moves.

[Mumra]

I find a heel and then right toe on the ledge in the roof. Then static the next 2 moves #birdbeta

[tomtom]

Racks memory for ledge in the roof... I'll have to go back..

[Mumra]

It's pretty obvious. It works with left heel or toe on,just squeeze

[a dense loner]

I think what mumra is trying to describe as the ledge in the roof is probably best described as the massive unmissable ledge in the roof

[r-man]

...How many people do the final rockover to the higher break? Most of the vids show people traversing off from the lip jug (which I did as well, thinking that was the end).

[tomtom]

I think what mumra is trying to describe as the ledge in the roof is probably best described as the massive unmissable ledge in the roof

I've not been there enough to have a mental picture of it.. Apart from the one your hands start on..

[Mumra]

I think what mumra is trying to describe as the ledge in the roof is probably best described as the massive unmissable ledge in the roof

He's right. It's a 1d problem tbh

[T_B]

Well I thought I'd seen it all. A heelhook on Blind Date? Bizarre.

[dave]

To be fair, a heel can work, but it's on a totally different foothold and the only person I've seen do it that way was Huffy.



Top rockover: I do it occasionally, but I don't think its especially nice or in keeping with the rest of the problem or adds any quality. Doesn't feel that logical either, if anything it makes it feel more obvious that you're traversing off half way up a route than the lower finish does IMHO.

Also a nasty fall if you tipple off, esp without spotters. Understandably unpopular.

[Johnny Brown]

...How many people do the final rockover to the higher break?

Everybody who wants a tick. Obviously most people have done it before so don't bother.

I think what mumra is trying to describe as the ledge in the roof is probably best described as the massive unmissable ledge in the roof

No idea what either of you mean. There is a ledge on the back wall, or the rail below the lip you start off. How big is Mumra?

[Mumra]

I'm 5.4. The hold is in the roof near Huffy's right knee. It's sort of
Rectangular shape iirc

I'm struggling to think of a problem on Peak gritstone that doesn't need or can help with a heel 


The top rock over is not very pleasant and doesn't really add much

[masonwoods101]

Only left heel hooks help on grit. Never seen a right heel hook on grit...

[nic mullin]

Toe for me too. I find that pasting my right foot sideways on nothing in particular on the underside of the roof and squeezing my legs together helps to get more out of the foothold.

For the move to the sloper, going to the higher left side of the sloper with left hand as if you're about to do blind fig (rather than the closer bit with the divot/pebble which is ticked in Dave's pic) is a bigger move but requires less accuracy - doesn't make much difference to difficulty, but means less wasted goes not getting the divot nicely. I don't bother with any intermediate pebbles but some find they help, either for getting the sloper or getting the second slot hold with your right hand.

The move from the slots to the hold over the next roof is blind and quite droppable. I hop my left foot up and rightwartds to an obvious polished pebble for this. You can cross through all the way to the jug rail right of the right hand slot but purists may suck their teeth at you.

As above, I did the top rockover for the tick and haven't bothered since.

[tomtom]

Cheers Nic - I found the ripple to the left of the divot/pebble worked better for me anyway (and easier to get right despite being further). Was good Connies though.

[andy_e]

Only left heel hooks help on grit. Never seen a right heel hook on grit...

Head to the cliff...

[r-man]

Only left heel hooks help on grit. Never seen a right heel hook on grit...

Assuming you are talking about the peak... Sean's Arete, Suavito, Beneath The Breadline, Green Traverse!, Monochrome, Boyager, Drop Your Weapons, Heavy Sky, Golden Egg...etc. etc.

[dave]

Green Traverse!

Back around.

[r-man]

I knew someone would bite.