[Muenchener]

Does Sharkathon replace Power Club? No.

STG (2015 January): sharkathon; onsight 6b+ on plastic
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: bike to work
T: Beastmaker max hangs
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. A dozen routes up to 6b+ with rather more success than last week (but no 6b+ onsight)

T: Last Rest Day before ...

*** SHARKATHON! No! Rest! til February! ***************

Sharkathon Day 1: UKB International Meet, Boulderwelt with the_dom. Great company and a thoroughly enjoyable session, thanks Dom. Climbed surprisingly well considering I hit the bargain riesling fairly hard on New Year's Eve.

Sharkathon Day 2: Boulderwelt circuits. There's a 7b circuit here which has a move - 15 of 25 - that I couldn't do at all two months ago. Today, through stronger fingers / better body positioning / whatever, I did the move first time and linked through it from the start twice, although I didn't quite get the whole thing. Training seems to work; encouraging.
Weighted pull-ups: in search of the 1 RM. Did threes of 12 & 16kg, twos of 20 & 22.5, singles of 23.75 & 25, failed at 26.25
I-Y-T's for the shoulders, hammer curls for the elbows.

Sharkathon Day 3: mobility, core, press-ups, reverse wrist curls: 40 minutes. An hour hiking in the woods with M jnr.

[Sasquatch]

Yeah for the new year! 
Start of week 184.2lbs, end of week 180.7lbs

M-Nothing
T-Big Snowboard day, PU's and ATB's
W-Stretch, Base workout
T-MAW, Moonboard - Good session on both, finished moonboard project (3rd session), and made good progress on two other projects
F-Stretch, Base workout, 5/3/1 week 1 Bench
S-Stretch, Base workout, Routes at wall with Wife, and 5/3/1 week 1 DL, Wtd PU's, and MED
S-Stretch, Base workout

[shark]

Happy New Year

11.3-4

M. PM Robin Hoods Stride with the boys. Razor Roof was dry and repeated that as did Ben though it scuppered Tommy. Laid seige to Razors Arete 6C+/7A  helped by good spotting / catching from Ben. Felt jubilant doing it on my last go.
T. PM Rowtor. Expected it to be crowded but only a group of UKB vets skulking there. Laid seige to Blood Falls 7B but lacked the oomph after the previous day to make much of an impression
W.AM Systems board. AnCap. Good first set but faded in the second so didnt do a third (138moves) Eve DT came round and had a lengthy discussion about fingerboard training and use of bathroom scales. Will devise a new session to experiment with on return from Spain
T. Drove to Grange over Sands to see New Year in with In-Laws
F. Spent a few hours furkling around limestone above Grange questing for new bouldering then did the same round the Humphrey Head peninsula with limited success
S. Drove back to Sheffield, Congested. Eve. Went to Foundry for first time in ages. Managed to do all current set of Level 2's on the Steep section of the Wave and some not too shoddy campusing
S. Dropped a pound on the morning weigh-in  Day of report writing followed by a quick trip to Foundry for some easy bouldering to keep with the Sharkathon.

Off to Chulilla tomorrow. Made the mistake this morning of trying to plan ahead with Mrs Shark of a suitable week in February to have a fruther week out in Spain. Broaching this subject less than 48hours before heading off was not a good idea and I had to retract the notion of a February trip. 

Remember Power Clubbers - when engaging with the enemy think strategically but act tactically.   

[Muenchener]

Made the mistake this morning of trying to plan ahead with Mrs Shark of a suitable week in February to have a further week out in Spain. Broaching this subject less than 48hours before heading off was not a good idea

Really? Amazing.

[Nibile]

Happy new year!

STG - board projects

Mon - sweet revenge in Chreschtianov. I am the greatest. No, really.
Tue - I still had one good shot to fire. One shot one kill. Brilliant.
Wed - rest. Food and alcohol.
Thu - rest. More food and more alcohol.
Fri - dumbbell complex, snatch pulls pyramid, hill sprints. Happy New Year.
Sat - board climbing at Filz's. Usual good session, set three problems and climbed two of them. Good power despite some proper hard drinking and eating in these days. It's incredible how different each board is and the effect that this difference has on the session.
Sun - rest. Tired and achey.

[TobyD]

M:evening 45 minute run
T: early morning 30 minute run; weighted pull ups evening
W: brief rock rings session, pull ups, trx exercises
T: BM 10 x 12 sec small edges 2 min rests; 5 x 7/3 repeaters pockets
F: early morning 30 minute run
S: Foundry pocket problems
S: Foundry, longer problems

[Sasquatch]

T-MAW, Moonboard - Good session on both, finished moonboard project (3rd session), and made good progress on two other projects

Also,  If anyone has access/ interest in the Moonboard, I'd be interested in feedback on these three:
http://www.moonclimbing.com/moonboard/page.php?page=V:1&problem=2200&filterHolds=0&filterGradeFrom=9&filterGradeTo=0&filterSetby=0&search_text=&starting=4
This was the one I just finished.

http://www.moonclimbing.com/moonboard/page.php?page=V:1&problem=2188&filterHolds=0&filterGradeFrom=9&filterGradeTo=0&filterSetby=0&search_text=&starting=4
This is one I made good progress on, falling off the second to last move multiple times, but sticking that move in isolation a few times.

http://www.moonclimbing.com/moonboard/page.php?page=V:1&problem=2189&filterHolds=15&filterGradeFrom=10&filterGradeTo=0&filterSetby=0&search_text=&starting=0
This one is a nasty little bugger.  I haven't done the second move yet, but I've now done all of the rest of the moves, and am starting to learn that move. 

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

M: DWS. Quick lap on a fun V3. 6 attempts on project. 4th attempt I actually stuck the break! Never done that before.... Then as it turns out, its actually really hard to match it. Couldn't flag under and reach up so dyno'd up and slid off cartwheeling/flipping down and landed on my arse/side. Came up laughing and annoyingly did not have go pro going... Far and away my best fall.
T: DWS and Lot 33.
DWS, 5 attempts and not got the break again.
Lot 33 night session. Couple v4s, repeat v7, try a v9, try a v11 (both too small crimps for me...) and many throws on Joe, Joe Dynamo V9 dyno. Ended the night with another bleeding flapper from it.
W: Rest.
T: Flat Rock. 5 laps on highball Pow for video. Did have a pad this time. 110th day on rock for the year.
F: DWS. 4 attempts. Not got the break again.
S: Lot 33. V3 and fa of a V5 dyno that was an old project. Did it 3rd go, very glad to get it done. Worked a v7 highball, this is hard. And jumped back on an old burly v7 that I havent tried in years. Cruised through hard lower section then wet hold on a move that I'd never even stuck before and did it first go... Couldn't continue with how wet the hold is.
S: DWS and Lot 33.
DWS usual 4 attempts. No break.
Lot 33, took a rope and tried top half of v7 highball. Scary. All moves now done besides the crux bump at about 3-4m. Bunch more throws on Joe, Joe still with no luck. Worked Nappy Nuggets V8 again. Still don't like this, really doesnt suit me and ruins my fingers. Repeated my first ever v7 (Nappy Nuggets Traverse) and cruised it first go. Was pleased with that because it took me so long. Also finished off 2 V6s from ages ago. One of them first go. Chuffed.


Fun dyno...



Sketchy committing move up high......... There Can Be Only One. V7 maybe? Only ever done on rope. Want to chop the bolts.

[the_dom]

STG: Get weight back to pre-holiday weight, Sharkathon compliance.

Just arrived back from my Euro trip. I enjoyed the Swiss bouldering at the beginning and the rest of the trip was dedicated to eating and drinking as much as I wanted. Accordingly, I'm about 4 kgs heavier.. #lardass

Mon: hotel room pushups, air squats and planks, 30 min run through Salzburg
Tues: rest, drove to Munich
Wed: brief boulder at Boulderwelt Munich Os, tried to do as many of their Hardmoves competition problems as possible. Didn't do all that many.
Thurs: more hotel room pushups, air squats and planks, walking around Munich.
Fri: great boulder at Boulderwelt Munich Wes thanks to Muenchener - despite the hangover I had an absolute blast climbing on really well set problems in a fun gym.
Sat: Treadmill sprints in the hotel room gym, walking around Munich.
Sun: Javorek dumbbell complexes in the hotel room gym. Surprisingly hard given the low weights available. Walking around Munich, followed by 18 hour transit home to 30+ degree centigrade Cape Town.

[T_B]

84.7Kg

M -
T - Foundry Lunch. 1 hr LI AeroCap. School p.m. some pink circuit (1 x 26-move crossing), 50deg. V close to Reich doing crux a couple of times and top footless move. Finished with attempt at purple circuit but knackered.
W -
T - a.m. Curbar. Dry rock and first time outside since 25 October! Warmed up slowly (but not slow enough in hindsight). Few goes at Great White consistently getting right toe on smear and one go pulling up enough to slap a few inches below the finishing pocket. But skin disintegrating quickly. Then a quick look at WoB but skin just peeling off and couldn't even do first move. So, all in all a bit of a frustrating session. But nice to be out I suppose
F - p.m. garage rings session with Mrs T_B. Feels as though some of these exercises are releasing my terminally stiff lower back and re-awakening my lower core - great!
S - p.m. School. Middle fingers on both hands feel strained probably from pulling down on sidepulls on GW. Warmed up and mainly did sections of pink circuit and purple circuit.
S -

Bit worried about fingers as they feel tweaky. A light week coming up before flying to Spain Friday a.m. Managed not to get too fat over Christmas/NY so pysched about that. Discussion at home about putting in an AeroCap/kids board in the garage.

[tomtom]

11.0 stn

M: Mother cap and associated areas with Dolly and Lagers. A long day - as I had to go from Manc > Hull to pick up some data then back to Manc via the Peak. Good fun - slithered down things at Mothers Cap - and we all failed on Mothers Ruin. Lagers left after that - and me & Dolly headed down to the Quarry and ended up at the Quarry boulder as it was the only dry rock there. Got stuck into a 7A on the left of the arete (from low slots) that eventually went after much effort (and a pretty wild dropping it twice and recovering final success from me..). This meant my new 7's tally for 2015 ended as:

7A   25
7A+ 8
7B   4
7B+ 2

Tu:
We:
Th: Off to Farmhouse in S.Peak to spend new year with friends.

Fr: Managed to get out twice. First a very unsatisfying boulder at Black Rocks - climbing really rubbish. Then later in the afternoon as light started to fail wandered up to the Alport Stone - which was 5 min walk from where we were staying. Had a really good hour there - did a couple of problems that were not in any guide - and I think are probably different from the starts of the E6 and E5 there. A bit eliminate (and finish half way up a face) but both had some really nice moves. Not sure whether or not they should be written up or not or if they're 'so obvious people have always done them' type problems...



Sa: Travel back home and rest. Every climber of note on the NW seems to have gone to the opening of the New Depot in Manchester then, but I just felt like watching crap TV

Su: Meant to go and visit Depot - but ended up being involved in protracted filming in Leeds - got pretty wet and didnt really feel like stopping in on the way back home.

[cheque]

STG-7s/ Extremes on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.
MTG- 7b/+ in 2016
LTG- 8a

M- Berry head location scouting. That huge cave is really cool. Walking and a little scrambling about.

Tu- Nothing.

W- Nothing.

Th- Drive back up from Devon. Back feels good!

F- Burbage. 2 degrees on the car thermometer, feels about 10 less than that in the wind at Burbage West. After freezing my hands off "warming up" I start trying the most sheltered thing there- West Side Story! Surprisngly I can make progress on this and I'm instantly sucked in. It's really good isn't it? Seems to me like it's mainly technique as in these great conditions I can use the handholds alright and they all seem good except for the little lefthand crimp I can get my hand onto but not in balance (I didn't say I was making a lot of progress...) Get sick of the cold so go to Burbage Bridge- fall off a 5+ arete onto my arse due to the damp top... Finish the day at Burbage South (sheltered! Should have gone here first) not doing very well oin the Sheep. Feels great to be on cold, dry grit.

Sa- Walked into town and back.

Su- Notts Depot. New comp problems. Standard drill is that I flash about the first 20 (of 30), get up the next one or two after a few goes then stall out, succesfully siege the next two next session then forget about the rest. Today I needed lots of goes on a few of the early ones but did the first 24 in the session. Pleased with that.

Not officialy signing up for the Sharkathon but I am planning to train more this month as well as dieting- on the 23rd December I weighed the most ever, a full stone over my fighting weight so I have good reason to!

[36chambers]

STG: Dialectics 8A
MTG: Font training plan
LTG: 8B

M: Long drive down South
T: Beautiful day at The Cuttings Boulderfield. Sent Lightning Strike 7a+ and the adjacent 7a. The former being an excellent problem.
W:
T: Visited Redspider climbing centre in Fareham and was promptly shut down by all the 7a's and 7a+'s on the comp wall. Literally couldn't link more than 3 or 4 moves on any of them. Not that it actually matters, but I'm curious as to whether the setters genuinely think the grades are realistic. Good session regardless. 
F: Long drive back from London. Tabata timing core work out.
S: Depot. An Pow. 7 moves with v.short break x 4, 10 mins rest. 4 sets. Very good session. A very unusual type of pump in which my upper (outside) forearm was boxed but I could still pull hard all the same. 
S: Ab ripper X.

Made a mega list for 2016 and I'm ridiculously psyched. Just waiting for the weather to play ball.

Tweaky finger appears better than ever. It appears spending a week eating and drinking too much is good for recovery.

[webbo]

Mon. Bike 3 hrs 11 mins 51.36 miles.
Tue. Board pretty good session. Did a couple I couldn't do last week and a few other new ones.
Wed. Board did a couple of new things and an older problem using screw on footholds, then weights a couple of hours later.
Thu. Bike 1 hr 27 mins 23.29 miles.
Fri. Walk with missus along old railway track at the top of Rosedale. 2 hrs plus 7 miles.
Sat. Turbo 1 hr.
Sun. Board repeated most of my recent problems. Weights.
 

[Hugh]

STG: Lose the Xmas blubber. 7B. More grit sessions.
MTG: Don't get broken.

Mon: 5km run. Travelling back from in-laws. Back sore.
Tue: Zoomed down to Dartmoor for the day with some mates and the family. Initially opted for Saddle Tor; it was blowing a gale (to the point where all the mats disappeared from beneath me halfway up), but did some really nice easier problems. Foul Bite in particular was great and fucking scary at the top. Eventually decamped to Bovey Woods to escape the wind. Thrashed about a bit on Nether Edge.
Wed: Nothing, letting skin recover.
Thu: Max hangs then quick session of 4x4s and aerocap at TCA.
Fri: 5km run.
Sat: Max hangs. Depressingly awful. Feeling really weak.
Sun: TCA, 4x4s and aerocap.

Still feeling fat and weak. Quite psyched to get out though, so hopefully that'll motivate me to sack off the booze and cakes.

[Luke Owens]

Happy New Year guys!

M: Rest

T: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks
5 x 10sec Spiderman
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks
50 Crunches

Eve: Hope Mnt. Warmed up on some easy stuff then it rained, a lot... Only problems climbable were Barrel Arete (6B) and Grotto Up (6C) so repeated them and did some deadhangs on an edge and attempted one arm lock-offs on a jug under the roof...

W: Lunch: 6 x 5 Off-set pull ups (Alternate arms)
3 x 10 Press ups
3 x 10sec (To failure) L-Hangs
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
3 x 10 Shoulder Raises (5kg)

T: Rest

F: Hope Mnt. witht my son. Conditions were rubbish, cold but problems really green and damp. Repeated Lower Arete (6C+) from one move in as it was wet so probably 6C. Then tried Lower Arete LH (6C) could to the slappy move but couldn't hold the move because the hold was so damp.

Little one was psyched scambling up and down rocks which was awesome!

S: DIY

S: DIY

Somehow tweaked my left wrist, think I did it a couple of weeks back trying to repeatedly hold the last move on Jasons Mono Problem, so a consistant outwards pull on the joint. Feels almost like it needs to click and is painful when hyper extending either forward or backwards. Iced it last night, massage and stretching just seems to irratate it. Strange... Anyone had this before?

[ashtond6]

All quiet in here this week, hope you are all recovering! Weather looking to improve

M 14 problems at wolfcrag, 3 6C/+
T rest
W frustrating Dumbarton day 5+? Some of the worst conditions I've ever seen
T Indoor bouldering,  maybe 6B
F wolfcrag 2 6Cs among others. Cleaned parts of Cambusbarron but it was wet and seriously neglected
S drive back to Sheffield
S wet - works yellow circuit (most of)

Seem to be doing 6Cs quite fast now. Also got another good point for next week's power club

On a serious note... where are all the Scottish climbers? I saw 2 people over 5 outdoor sessions that were all dry days
So much accessible and mostly dry rock. I have also barely seen anyone over the last 6-12 months during my visits

[tomtom]

I used to get clicky wrists like that all the time Luke. I put it down to being scrawny and weak... Not had it for a while but it never lasted long..

[SA Chris]

Made the mistake this morning of trying to plan ahead with Mrs Shark of a suitable week in February to have a further week out in Spain. Broaching this subject less than 48hours before heading off was not a good idea

Really? Amazing.

+1 - you are the master.

[filz]

Happy New Year 

Mon: bouldering in Cresciano. Done a couple of easy problems, tried a 6c+/7a. Did all the moves, but too tired and not enough skin left. Next time
Tue: rest
Wed: rest
Thu: climbing tied to a rope after months  ! Some easy stuff, on sighted a 6b+ and then tried a 7a+ I hadn't tried in ages. Best go was with 2 resting. Moves felt easy compared to the past  , but I lack stamina.
Fri: rest
Sat: board climbing with Nibs and another friend. Set some new problems, then I tried a power endurance test problem. Good session, but in the end my right arm started aching. It's an old problem I have since I was around 16 after I fell from the motorbike. Sometimes it comes back.
Sun: rest. Right arm still aching.

[tk421a]

Argh, it's been a few weeks since I last posted, life! Anyways, here's to 2016 and keeping up with this.
STG: Get climbing again + Get out on rock. 1-4-6 on campus, I can 1-3-5-7-9 comfortably now...and can do 1-4-6/1-3-6 on BM bawls (slopey jugs).
MTG: 7B+/7C - ~10 day boulder trip planned for Easter, Font or Albarracin.
LTG: 8A, 8b+ sport (5.14!)

London based, mostly indoor climber who doesn't get out enough! Previous best of 7A+ in Font last Easter, done sport / alpine climbing since, with a big step change in my indoor training volume, from 2-3 to averaging 4-5 climbing / fingerboard sessions per week. Feeling a lot stronger now

M: -
Tu: Indoor boulder, did a really good session before I randomly popped something in my knee (pretty minor injury) on a V7/8. Was able to walk on it after but felt slightly weird
W: Saw physio, possible mild medial collateral ligament sprain with maybe minor medial meniscus damage, bunch of exercises to do. Time to do some fingerboarding!
Th: Repeaters, 2 sets of 6 reps 7/3s on a medium campus rung.
F: Aerocap on my campus rungs (foot on for 15mins at a time maintaing a mild pump). Lots of core exercises - trying to get to a strong hollow body
Sa: More core, more stretching/yoga
Su: Strength fingerboard (Eva Lopez protocol). Some gym machine exercises + core

Ski weekend with mates this weekend, knee is in a good spot now (physio signed off skiing). Fingers crossed for good weather a good trip. Back on the wall next week.

Happy New Year everyone.

[Ti_pin_man]

xmas was a planned rest period for me, but I got a couple of wall sessions in just to keep me ticking over so for me it was eating / drinking and spending serious time with my daughters, it was fab, a great xmas and I only put on a kilo which has now gone.  Now, onwards and upwards, aiming for font 7b this year and to take myself outside a bit more.