[TheTwig]

Anyone else think that TB has had some absolute gold in recent episodes? Really enjoyed listening to Tom Randall and Steve Bechtel's 2nd episode. Really goes to show just how little most people understand about climbing training. It's funny to see some people wonder whether we will ever see 9c, v17 etc. Imagine climbing training at the level of track cycling!

On Eric Hurst's episode there were lots of hints about secret voodoo training methods being developed too 

Just wish the host would do a little more background research on her guests. It wouldn't take 5 minutes on Google for her to know about Century / Cobra crack and so on. Though that seems to be par for the course 

[Muenchener]

Anyone else think that TB has had some absolute gold in recent episodes? Really enjoyed listening to Tom Randall and Steve Bechtel's 2nd episode.

I agree. Justen Sjong was good too; Andrew Bisharat also has a couple of write-ups of sessions with him eveningsends.

Just wish the host would do a little more background research on her guests. It wouldn't take 5 minutes on Google for her to know about Century / Cobra crack and so on.

+1 to this too

[blamo]

It was definitely helpful to hear the perspective from people focused on bouldering.  Will Anglin had some interesting perspectives.

Just wish the host would do a little more background research on her guests. It wouldn't take 5 minutes on Google for her to know about Century / Cobra crack and so on.

+1 to this too

+1 more on that.  I think a bit of background research would really help the podcasts.

[Paul B]

Just wish the host would do a little more background research on her guests. It wouldn't take 5 minutes on Google for her to know about Century / Cobra crack and so on. Though that seems to be par for the course 

Agreed, but for a climber who travels a lot she seems to have hit on a winning formula.

Whilst there has been some 'gold' on recent podcasts other things have made me cringe and I do wonder how many people simply lap it up and whether things (deadhanging is the one that really makes me swear at the tablet) stated as gospel will be enshrined into training practices simply from being included in such podcasts. There's not a lot of push-back from Neely asking where certain things have come from (things which pop up repeatedly) and as you said these could (and background info) gained fairly easily.

You also have to question the site having one-size fits all training plans / deadhanging plans designed by interviewee X when interviewee X states that everyone is different and he/she wouldn't possibly hand out advice without seeing a client (or is that just cynical me?  ).

[TheTwig]

Agree with you Paul, there are plenty of cringeworthy things said on the podcast. Mostly by the host IMHO but sometimes the trainers/'experts' do come out with some fairly questionable stuff that doesn't really seem to be backed up by anything at all. Deadhanging is probably the biggest one, virtually every single person on there seems to be a fan of different, arbitrary regimes.

Not cynical at all! The elephant in the room of Neely & Co selling training programmes while essentially getting the inside scoop on other trainers plans does make me laugh sometimes. Especially when Neely says "can you give me an example of what you would do for X" and there is an awkward pause 

[abarro81]

What do you expect with regards to fingerboard recommendations? I once looked up literature relating to strength and hypertrophy gains from isometric exercises of different durations - not just for finger training but all isometric work. There was no discernable robust conclusion whatsoever so it just comes down to what you've found works and what you've seen work well for others underpinned by some ballpark principles..

[T_B]

Agreed.

It seems to me that people expect some sort of magic bullet!

I thought Bechtel's explanation of the difference between absolute finger strength training (max hangs) compared to repeaters ("if you're getting pumped your not training strength") was really useful.

Plus I know that whilst CWP deadhanging routine might work for some people, it aggravates my elbows. Different protocols will work for different people, but might achieve similar results.

[Muenchener]

Not cynical at all! The elephant in the room of Neely & Co selling training programmes while essentially getting the inside scoop on other trainers plans does make me laugh sometimes. Especially when Neely says "can you give me an example of what you would do for X" and there is an awkward pause 

Perhaps a little harsh? She's not forcing people to do interviews at gunpoint*, so they must think it's worthwhile for them in terms of marketing / glow of altruistic satisfaction / whatever.

*She's American so I accept I may be wrong on this

[TheTwig]

Not cynical at all! The elephant in the room of Neely & Co selling training programmes while essentially getting the inside scoop on other trainers plans does make me laugh sometimes. Especially when Neely says "can you give me an example of what you would do for X" and there is an awkward pause 

Perhaps a little harsh? She's not forcing people to do interviews at gunpoint*, so they must think it's worthwhile for them in terms of marketing / glow of altruistic satisfaction / whatever.

*She's American so I accept I may be wrong on this

I said it in jest, maybe its just my imagination but I always hear a bit of a pause when she asks for the detailed low-down. Probably due to being put on the spot. Maybe I'm naive but I think that all of the 'real' trainers interviewed so far genuinely want to help people, which is refreshing. Makes a change from the cynical, suspicious thoughts I have about people the rest of the time  Viva la training beta!

[Paul B]

Agreed.

It seems to me that people expect some sort of magic bullet!

Absolutely they do but my point was more that certain things should simply be backed up or qualified with "in my experience" or "anecdotally", where I've heard/read " the best science available " which as Barros points out is utter tripe!

Anyway it's chucking it down so definitely viva the podcasts, any podcasts!

[jwi]

As Guido Köstermeyer puts it in his book (I'm translating loosely here) “The training methods are described with a precision that far exceeds the precision of the available scientific knowledge.” And that is for normal strength training! For isometric training almost all recent studies are done with safe rehab for the sick and the old in mind. Like abarro81, I haven't found anything useful at all about isometric training in the scientific literature.

[duncan]

The latest TBP features thekettle. It's about movement training in particular but also motivation, breaking plateaus, and nutrition. Very good I thought. 

[Smith42]

I'm loving these pod casts. 

Full of    and psyche.