Is it normal to improve on one grip and not on another? any thoughts for improving max crimp strength?
Quote from: shark on December 20, 2015, 06:09:49 pmIs it normal to improve on one grip and not on another? any thoughts for improving max crimp strength?I find my rate of improvement differs across grip types - weaker ones tend to improve quicker, which isn't rocket science, but F3 half crimp vs B3 half crimp are worlds apart in terms of rate of improvement..
Depressing finger injury, 10 days before planning to go to Spain.
Fri: Was shown round the new Manchester Depot by Stallioni. Very Impressive. Then went to Logport wall. Less impressive.
Quote from: tomtom on December 20, 2015, 05:33:24 pmFri: Was shown round the new Manchester Depot by Stallioni. Very Impressive. Then went to Logport wall. Less impressive. So excited about the Depot. Apparently opening between Christmas and New Year. So where exactly is it?It's still amazing that Logport is the best bouldering wall i Manchester (until the Depot opens by the look of it).
There's directions\map on the fb page for it. Units N1 and N2 of the industrial estate its in. Soft launch was how it was described to me.. I think the timing depends on when the get stuff finished - but doubt they want to wait any longer than they have to..If I hear when it opens I'll text you - I'm keen to test it out and about here until 29\30th.
Depressing finger injury, 10 days before planning to go to Spain. Seems like the proximal interphalangeal joint, middle finger, which I tweaked a couple of months ago. A sprain of some sort I think, possibly medial collateral ligament, definitely not a pulley. Weird that it's so swollen though, almost like it was infected. All too painful and puffy at the moment to be very sure. No idea how long these kind of things take to recover, never had a significant finger injury like this before. Struggling to stay positive, in general I seem to get better faster from acute injuries like this than from non-specific tweaks. Any thoughts on the recovery timescale?
Another 2-in-1:Sun: Zipped up to Burbage for the day.
Quote from: duncan on December 21, 2015, 07:50:08 amDepressing finger injury, 10 days before planning to go to Spain. Seems like the proximal interphalangeal joint, middle finger, which I tweaked a couple of months ago. A sprain of some sort I think, possibly medial collateral ligament, definitely not a pulley. Weird that it's so swollen though, almost like it was infected. All too painful and puffy at the moment to be very sure. No idea how long these kind of things take to recover, never had a significant finger injury like this before. Struggling to stay positive, in general I seem to get better faster from acute injuries like this than from non-specific tweaks. Any thoughts on the recovery timescale?Every possibility you'll be ok to climb in Spain. Often these PIP sprains take forever to heal properly, but you can get by fine by avoiding certain grip types. Usually pulling down on edges is ok. Perhaps stick to redpointing, which is more predictable.
Quote from: Three Nine on December 21, 2015, 11:34:03 amQuote from: duncan on December 21, 2015, 07:50:08 amDepressing finger injury, 10 days before planning to go to Spain. Seems like the proximal interphalangeal joint, middle finger, which I tweaked a couple of months ago. A sprain of some sort I think, possibly medial collateral ligament, definitely not a pulley. Weird that it's so swollen though, almost like it was infected. All too painful and puffy at the moment to be very sure. No idea how long these kind of things take to recover, never had a significant finger injury like this before. Struggling to stay positive, in general I seem to get better faster from acute injuries like this than from non-specific tweaks. Any thoughts on the recovery timescale?Every possibility you'll be ok to climb in Spain. Often these PIP sprains take forever to heal properly, but you can get by fine by avoiding certain grip types. Usually pulling down on edges is ok. Perhaps stick to redpointing, which is more predictable.^ This.I get swollen PIP joints fairly regularly when I up the load, usually the middle finger, it just seems to come with the territory - they always seem to settle fairly quickly to a level which isn't too disruptive. Treat it like any low level inflammation - keep using it gently and try to remember to ice it after each sesh. Perhaps try a quick blast of anti-inflammatory if the swelling hasn't improved after a couple of days, although I avoid vitamin I these days (try cissuss! ). Once the inflammation has settled down a little I've found Dave Mac's advice of gently rotating and very gently bending the pip joint side to side with the other hand to be beneficial. Page 144 of Dave Mac's book is useful. It may well just be synovial fluid reaction as DM talks about.If it's just a swollen pip you should be fine for you trip.Also had a couple of collateral ligament sprains - takes a bit longer.
Quote from: Hugh on December 21, 2015, 09:00:55 amAnother 2-in-1:Sun: Zipped up to Burbage for the day. I was at Burbage West most of the day, probably seen you there. I was the one falling off everything.
Any thoughts on the recovery timescale?