[dunnyg]

Looking at doing some big US aid stuff in September, looking into the world of aid gear. Aiders, ladder style seem like they will get less tangled and be less faffy if mostly aiding (which I will as I will get spanked on granite), with negatives being bulkier for switching between free and aiding. Anything else worth thinking about regarding ladder vs etrier style. Currently thinking it is worth spending the extra cash on the Yates speed ladder things. Any words of advice?

[ashtond6]

If you are going to be doing loads of aiding, def get ladder aiders.
Get adjustable daisys
Get a decent fifi!

[duncan]

I think you've covered it.

For a full-on aid extravaganza like Mescalito, use the setup as ashtond6 suggests. For a route like The Nose or The Salathe, which you should aim to do >80% free, the aiders will get most use when jumaring and I'd prefer the Metolius. The stiffened footloop is almost as easy to use as the ladder style and the lack of spreader bar makes it a bit more compact and less of a faff in corners. I wouldn't take a Fifi or adjustable daisy either on this sort of route.

[Fultonius]

If you do buy ladder aiders I really liked my Fish Products ladders.

On half dome I think we shared a pair of metolius lighter ones.

Didn't do this nose.


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[Paul B]

I agree with the above although we didn't do anything which required switching to free (I'm hardly a pro either).

Avoid adjustable ets like the plague, although they're now absolutely great for photographing from a line.

I'd pick Ancra buckle daisies over the metolius versions as they're much better at releasing under load. A mate is making Ancra buckle adjustable Fifi's too.

I have a Kong adjustable Fifi which worked well with traditional daisies but did slip a few times which was mildly terrifying.

Yates
Fish
Runout Customs all make good robust stuff.

Learnt to haul 2:1, being a lightweight that was invaluable and a better compromise than 3:1. Mark Hudon has some good PDFs kicking around the internet on this and other stuff .

I bought the Supertopo how to big wall book and found it to befairly poor offering a one size fits all mentality.

[ashtond6]

on the hauling- I reckon you can do a 4 day wall, only removing a few luxuries @ 1:1 (providing your not a 65kg sport climber 

We did Triple Direct planning for 4 days. Did it in under 3.5 days & could 1:1 from the floor (and we had a ledge)

2:1 takes a lot longer than 1:1 (setting up & distance moving the bags)

As above, absolutely DO NOT haul 3:1. 2:1 is just as easy to set up and way better

[chillax]

The Yates speed wall ladders are the business. I dislike the side-by-side variety, they close up, and can be a major faff to get your feet into. The fish ones are alright, a bit floppy and very long. Might be better if you're extra tall (I'm not).

I stopped using a fifi and went to the adjustable daisies (Yates variety, metolius are awful). Quicker and less faffy.

Working out your jugging and hauling systems is the best thing you can do beforehand. I hauled 1:1 (because I'm a bit thick) and it worked fine on multiple walls. Will investigate this 2:1 voodoo further before I head back to Yosemite in June though. Try stuff out and see what works best for you.

[Fultonius]

We did 3:1. We had a lot of beer...   Yeah,  got the fish aiders do suit the taller gent.

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[ashtond6]

2:1 gave me 2 cases of beer, 2 bottles of wine, and enough food and water for 7 days 

In theory, 2:1 means I can comfortably lift 160kg with minimal effort. If you need it explaining let me know, but lots of stuff online. Looks v complicated but its really simple once you have built it once

[Fultonius]

Oh man, my memory is failing me!!!

We also hauled 2:1 using the z-cord setup.

[dunnyg]

Cheers ukb, guess I will find some ladders, found some etriers for cheap but I might as well buy the right thing!

[geoffg]

Back in the day I went to the scrapper and got some seat belt which I took to a cobbler and got him to stitch up some 4 rung aiders. Worked for me on several walls up to A4+.
If you're doing anything difficult then learn how to top rung efficiently. By product is that it's a good core workout.

[SamT]

i can genuinely lay my hands on 100s of meters of seatbelt webbing if anyone wants any.

[Paul B]

Providing your not a 65kg sport climber 

I think combined we were coming in sub 100kg and neither of us ever reached the belay before the bag when cleaning!

[ashtond6]

chongo 2:1 or 1:1?
We couldn't beat the bag either way!

[lagerstarfish]

best buy the equipment now before Martin Shkreli puts the prices up

[Paul B]

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/hauling-for-weak-people/111373853

The wade in from the 10yr old girl really cracked me up!