S: Wall, Boulderwelt. 6C+ in a session yyfy. Picked one that totally suits my style - off vertical on small holds - but I suppose that's part of the game for grade pushing. And this is something of a breakthrough: I've been plateau'd at about 6B in bouldering for a while, indoors and out,
Quote from: Muenchener on December 06, 2015, 05:06:56 pmS: Wall, Boulderwelt. 6C+ in a session yyfy. Picked one that totally suits my style - off vertical on small holds - but I suppose that's part of the game for grade pushing. And this is something of a breakthrough: I've been plateau'd at about 6B in bouldering for a while, indoors and out,
Friday - Social Aerobics Saturday - Social Aerobics
Then tried "Too Hard for Mark Leach" took ages to work out beta and kept falling off the 2nd to last move, when I got home and watched about 5 videos it turns out we were starting 5 moves further back into Ben's Roof sort of around the corner... Everyone in the videos were starting on the outside of the cave, is this right?
Quote from: Luke Owens on December 07, 2015, 10:41:09 amThen tried "Too Hard for Mark Leach" took ages to work out beta and kept falling off the 2nd to last move, when I got home and watched about 5 videos it turns out we were starting 5 moves further back into Ben's Roof sort of around the corner... Everyone in the videos were starting on the outside of the cave, is this right? Yes
Quote from: shark on December 07, 2015, 11:51:17 amQuote from: Luke Owens on December 07, 2015, 10:41:09 amThen tried "Too Hard for Mark Leach" took ages to work out beta and kept falling off the 2nd to last move, when I got home and watched about 5 videos it turns out we were starting 5 moves further back into Ben's Roof sort of around the corner... Everyone in the videos were starting on the outside of the cave, is this right? YesCheers Shark, should be an easier tick next time then!
I found those moves round the corner as hard as most other moves on Ben's. Perhaps you should have a go at the whole thing.
Quote from: shark on December 07, 2015, 12:38:48 pmI found those moves round the corner as hard as most other moves on Ben's. Perhaps you should have a go at the whole thing. Really? That's good to know, I figured out a good method with a high right heel and left foot really low on a toe hook to be able to release the RH off that good hold to match the crimps on the lip.Surprised to hear the moves on the rest of it are just as hard, I would never of thought to try the full thing purely for the high grade it gets, so I presumed the rest was nails!
Coaxed out to Stanage by Lagers and Tomtom with offers of fresh aeropressed coffee and Portugese tarts. Warmed up on the Lone Boulder and then went to Brad Pit just in time to see Rob Greenwood waltz up it Spent next hour on it. OK getting heel up but was using the Blanco spur to pull down rather than rolling on to heel. Such an ace problem.
That's all very well but how were the Portuguese tarts?
Quote from: duncan on December 07, 2015, 03:42:39 pmThat's all very well but how were the Portuguese tarts?From Roses the Bakers. Highly recommended. Not featured on their site but gorgeous. A custard tart in what seemed like filo pastry.