[fried]

M - Nothing
Tu - Day off work. Should be dry, but chance of a spot of rain, take the easy option and go to Sabots. Shoulder still a bit dodgy and decide to do some stuff that doesn't aggrevate it. Try a lot of red problems, fail to top any of them, but they all feel easier than last time I tried. I'll certainly come back for this:- Service compris http://bleau.info/sabots/5757.html. Did Dalle de cristal http://bleau.info/sabots/5732.html, I could never do the last move before, today it seemed trivial. Climbed in T-shirt by the end connies O.K, but a bit greasy.

W- rest
Th - Planned to go outside again, but too much paperwork. Go and have a look at my wall's new wall in La Defense, this will save me a lot of transport time and I pay the 60 euros extra for the year. Very nice open wall, looks to have aircon too which will make climbing from May to October easier. I did about 60 easyish probs. Utterly trashed by the end, my fingers were so sore on the new holds I had to stop.

F- Rest
S/ Su - Family stuff in the sticks, drink a lot and snaffle up 3kg of Sanglier.

[Muenchener]

STG (2015): 6C on plastic 6C+ yyfy, onsight 6b+ on plastic marginal
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M:
T: FB max hangs. Improved by 2kg on pinches yyfy

W:   Wall, Thalkirchen. Nine routes up to 6b+ including a "6b+" onsight. YYFY, slightly. Unlike many people I don't normally find wall grades soft, since I don't cope well with being pumped. But this one was, blatantly, so I'm reluctant to count it. Otoh I am rapidly running out of ones I haven't tried.

T: Alpine approach / snowboard season leg training: 40 mins step-ups w/18kg rucksack
F: FB max hangs. Slight improvement on small edge, weaker on pinches.
S: Snowboard shopping with M jnr & DAV Xmas party.

S: Wall, Boulderwelt. 6C+ in a session yyfy. Picked one that totally suits my style - off vertical on small holds - but I suppose that's part of the game for grade pushing. And this is something of a breakthrough: I've been plateau'd at about 6B in bouldering for a while, indoors and out, at the same time as my route grade has gone from 6b to 7a. At some point I'm going to have to be able to do harder moves in order to do harder routes. Also useful progress on totally not my style 15 move 6B roof project; I still need to learn what to do with my feet when I'm not standing on them.

[webbo]

Mon. Board working and doing new problems with new holds.
Tue. Dumbbell workout.
Wed. Board did a couple of new things, didn't do much.
Thu. Turbo 1hour.
Fri. Bike 3hours 47.15 miles. Very windy.
Sat. Board working and doing problems on new holds. Weights mainly Dumbbells but did bench press with the bar.
Sun. Bike 3hrs 31mins 58.20 miles pretty battered.
Not a bad weeks efforts.

[shark]

S: Wall, Boulderwelt. 6C+ in a session yyfy. Picked one that totally suits my style - off vertical on small holds - but I suppose that's part of the game for grade pushing. And this is something of a breakthrough: I've been plateau'd at about 6B in bouldering for a while, indoors and out,

 

[tomtom]

S: Wall, Boulderwelt. 6C+ in a session yyfy. Picked one that totally suits my style - off vertical on small holds - but I suppose that's part of the game for grade pushing. And this is something of a breakthrough: I've been plateau'd at about 6B in bouldering for a while, indoors and out,

 

\o/

[shark]

Thanks fried

11.0-11.3

M. AM Systems board Bouldered for 30 mins then did 1 set of 20/10's = 120 moves just on incut edges. Feels too hard for AeroCap
T. Lunch Systems board Did one set of 20/10s at lunchtime and another late afternoon on he big holds. Waned to do multiple sets but found it hard work. Probably doesn't qualify as active rest.
W. AM Tor. Blue sky leaving Sheffield but clouded over and rained as day went on. 8.5degrees. Met Nick C there. Tomtom turned up later. R&H wet. Mainly re-worked Weedkiller and dabbled with Bens. Not feeling on it. Should have rested Tuesday
T.
F. Noon. Planned to go to Ramshaw but Nick C hurt his finger. Coaxed out to Stanage by Lagers and Tomtom with offers of fresh aeropressed coffee and Portugese tarts. Warmed up on the Lone Boulder and then went to Brad Pit just in time to see Rob Greenwood waltz up it Spent next hour on it. OK getting heel up but was using the Blanco spur to pull down rather than rolling on to heel. Such an ace problem. Had a tyre change and made some microscopic progress reaching up for seam. Did the Steep Traverse at Plantation which finished me off
S.
S. Grim weather and a bit hungover. Fingerboard

This weeks ailment is an infection in the gums. Reluctant to take antibiotics given recent adverse reaction. Went to Sheffield Tap for first time on Saturday Superb place.Going to try to lay off the booze this week and see if I can get the weight back down again Bulk of recruitment work out the way so bit more free to out midweek. Keen to have another go at Brad Pit.

[Nibile]

Mon - snatch pyramid, 20-16-12-8-4 and back, 1' rests. Glad to complete it despite adding 2 kg to the bar. Good speed throughout the whole excercise. Hill sprints x 6. Heavy session.
Tue - rest.
Wed - system crimp session. A bit humid on the BM, but brilliant foot on campusing. Dumbbell static complex, snatch high pulls x 2. Heavy session.
Thu - climbing class. After the class I briefly tried a couple of problems, but it was boiling hot, so sacked it. Active rest. Useless.
Fri - rest.
Sat - board climbing. Three good goes on a project, very intense. Then one dumbbell complex, one weights Tabata, one barbell carry, one shoulder carry. Ouch.
Sun - board climbing. I was sure I was going to do the project but no. Damn it's hard. Three goes are more than enough to leave me spent: it has everything, dyno, fingers, deadpoint, body tension and the classic shoulder move. Brilliant, I've improved so much!

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Comp problems. Did all bar 2 problems , both Open A Male. One didn't even get topped in comp and the other only 3 people topped. Then made up horrible eliminates on most of them.
W: Tambourine Bay. Local micro crag that I just hadn't gotten around to going to yet. Sharp, very sharp. Got a stopper move on the crag classic Sharik's Roof V9. Other than that move that I can't even work out, it's burly and hard but could go. Moved on to Megatron V9/10? All moves bar the top out. Wet pockets at start.
T: Rest.
F: Rest.
S: Frontline. Hot. With a bumbly mate. I just lapped things up to V5 then end of session I jumped on Rocket Man for a throw. Couple of attempts later I'm actually getting into the blind slot then couple more later I hit in the slot and hold for the swing, heel comes out and left hand goes for the slot too. Only get 2 fingers in and swing out on this. At peak of swing, 2 fingers slide abit and I'm just off. All I had to do was hold that and it would've been over......... Closest I've ever been.  Then couldn't stick first move after that. Back during the week for a cooler night session. Will go.
S: The Villas. Hot day at beach getting sunburnt and then night session. Warmed up doing V2 and tough V5 (3 attempts today!), then jumped back on Savage V8. First go got to crux throw and dabbed (booted the pad on cut....). Swapped thick pad for thinner then did from there to the top (crimpy headwall). Rested couple min then did it no problems.  Burly problem that alot of people find tough for the grade. I just don't feel as though I can climb 7B+ yet, even though I've ticked 3 in the last month....


Megatron. Starts down right on pockets.




Savage. This is from first session but can actually see as opposed to the utter blackness of the actual tick....

[T_B]

84.1Kg

M -
T - School p.m. mainly 50 degree, but a bit tired. Mainly trying Pure Wood and Turd Reich. Repeated Schoolboy.
W -
T - Foundry lunch. HI Aerocap. Could only manage 5 mins on, then a couple of mins rest, for an hour. V pumped.
F - Foundry lunch. As per Thurs.
S - School p.m. Slow warm up on sections of circuits, then did Pure Wood 7C quickly with low left foothold, not high right. Then had meant to try pink circuit but started trying Schoolgirl 7C+/8A. Linked first 3 moves. Finished with attempts on Purple circuit (transition onto side wall of 50deg now harder since angle change  ), 4 x 20+ moves.
S -

Going to Spain for a long weekend 8 January, so am trying to do some stamina training before then, though clearly not very well planned out and not super motivated for it! Not many opportunities to get outside bouldering on the grit between now and then anyway. 5 x 7Cs now completed on the new 50 degree board, so definitely stronger than 2001 when I did Basic Ben and 1-5-8 the same week. Can't understand why I'm not putting on weight - over 3 months now that I've been under 85Kg 

[tomtom]

M: Work

T: Work and travel

We: Shark dragged me off to the Tor - where he was having little success remembering how to do Weedkiller. I had a play and eventually remembered all the moves - overlapped the sections and couldnt be bothered to 'redpoint' after a foot came off a wet hold.. Had my first play on Bens for over a year - and managed to link from the start to lunging for the second good hold (pre knee bar). Creaky - but definite progress. Benchmarks in climbing are tenuous and few - and it felt like I had improved since a year back...

Th: Beastmaker

Fr: Plantation with Lagers and Shark. Nice warm up on Lonely Boulder - where lagers managed not to hustle us - and Shark even looked like he may have momentarily enjoyed himself.. On to Brad P - which I was dead keen to get on. Rubbish. I just can't bend my legs/back/body into a sensible shape to get the heel on and keep a toe low. I end up in some horrendous knee scumming ball of crapness hanging from two greasy crimps. I gave up. Flounced over to the Storm - which felt far more promising until the slopey rail greased up a bit and the wind made things unbearable. Went home before the eothers to avoid the Stockport Rush Minute...

Sa: Drive to London for Cousins Xmas party. Much vodka consumed.

Su: Had planned to go to Reading wall - but was (a) knackered and (b) £11.50 for a non member climb.... wtf!!!!

[Wood FT]

STG (1-2 months): 7B (Suavito?)
MTG (4-6 months): Raindogs
LTG (8-12months): Pierrepoint/Supercool

Mon -
Tues - Works, did a few murples then board. Nath's pocket problem feels hard needing me to half-crimp, very good moves although I'm noticably weaker on left side. Struggled to find space to aerocap so sacked it, should have gone to the kid works.
Wednesday - Awesome Walls, 10 x (6b+ -7a) good level of pump maintained. 
Thursday - Hickish Dinner, lots of eggs.
Friday - Social Aerobics
Saturday - Social Aerobics
Sunday - Plantation, bleak. 

Ticking over.

[andy_e]

Friday - Social Aerobics
Saturday - Social Aerobics

 

[Luke Owens]

M: Rest

T: Boardroom - V0-V1 x 10, V1-V2 x 5, V3-V5 x 8 - 20 mins aerocap on autobelay

W: Rest
T: Local wall - Awesome session felt really light, repeated stuff up to 6C on 20' board, then set a new 6C/+ and made up some eliminates which were around 6C/+.

45' board - Managed to tick the blue project I've been trying, a couple of weeks ago I could only just do the moves in isolation so really happy with progress, repeated the other slightly easier stuff and tried some new things. Did some campusing on jugs up the board too.

Fell like I'm getting used to this angle now.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: 2 hour drive to Burbage and then it threw it down... Bailed to Raven Tor, first time there met a local who was helpful and showed us around the bouldering.

Did problems 1 - 4 on pinches wall, 6A+ highball groove to the right and a crimpy 6B+ to the left, think this is the start of "Call of Nature"?

Then tried "Too Hard for Mark Leach" took ages to work out beta and kept falling off the 2nd to last move, when I got home and watched about 5 videos it turns out we were starting 5 moves further back into Ben's Roof sort of around the corner... Everyone in the videos were starting on the outside of the cave, is this right? I did think it was a massive sandbag at 6C from where I was starting but it's probably about right from that easier start.

Psyched to get back to the Tor soon, routes look ace.

[SA Chris]

STG - finish top 2 in bouldering comp on Sat (veterans)
MTG -not blimp out and lose everything over Xmas
LTG - Spring outdoor projects

M - Bit of core I think
T - Nothing
W - Fairly good wall session - 2.5 hours. Ticked a few hard problems, feeling pretty strong 60 and 45 boards, which is rare.
T - Light core
F - Nothing
S - some weights, swimming with daughter
S - some core, light beastmaker and pull up bar session.

[shark]

Then tried "Too Hard for Mark Leach" took ages to work out beta and kept falling off the 2nd to last move, when I got home and watched about 5 videos it turns out we were starting 5 moves further back into Ben's Roof sort of around the corner... Everyone in the videos were starting on the outside of the cave, is this right?

Yes

[Luke Owens]

Then tried "Too Hard for Mark Leach" took ages to work out beta and kept falling off the 2nd to last move, when I got home and watched about 5 videos it turns out we were starting 5 moves further back into Ben's Roof sort of around the corner... Everyone in the videos were starting on the outside of the cave, is this right?

Yes

Cheers Shark, should be an easier tick next time then!

[shark]

Then tried "Too Hard for Mark Leach" took ages to work out beta and kept falling off the 2nd to last move, when I got home and watched about 5 videos it turns out we were starting 5 moves further back into Ben's Roof sort of around the corner... Everyone in the videos were starting on the outside of the cave, is this right?

Yes

Cheers Shark, should be an easier tick next time then!

I found those moves round the corner as hard as most other moves on Ben's. Perhaps you should have a go at the whole thing. 

[Luke Owens]

I found those moves round the corner as hard as most other moves on Ben's. Perhaps you should have a go at the whole thing.

Really? That's good to know, I figured out a good method with a high right heel and left foot really low on a toe hook to be able to release the RH off that good hold to match the crimps on the lip.

Surprised to hear the moves on the rest of it are just as hard, I would never of thought to try the full thing purely for the high grade it gets, so I presumed the rest was nails!

[shark]

I found those moves round the corner as hard as most other moves on Ben's. Perhaps you should have a go at the whole thing.

Really? That's good to know, I figured out a good method with a high right heel and left foot really low on a toe hook to be able to release the RH off that good hold to match the crimps on the lip.

Surprised to hear the moves on the rest of it are just as hard, I would never of thought to try the full thing purely for the high grade it gets, so I presumed the rest was nails!

If done with kneebars and kneepads I get the impression it is probably low 7C - significantly easier than Powerband (using pocket). Not that I've done either.

[tomtom]

It took Shark ages to get the easy bit at the end mind you...

[r-man]

It gets a high grade because there are two hard moves in the middle. Without those it would be 7A or something.

[cheque]

STG- Extremes/ 7s on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.
MTG- 7b/+ in 2016
LTG- 8a

M- Nothing.

Tu- Foundry. Did 4 L2s. Definitely climbing on the Wave again this winter- so much better than standard indoor bouldering.

W- Rest.

Th- Notts Depot. Worked through the new comp problems- 204 points, which is around what I was getting first session the year before last. Definitely lacking the "oomph" of last winter.

F- Rest.

Sa- Roaches to meet/ get burned off by UKB celebrities Will Hunt and Footwork  . First proper bouldering session of the winter- loads of fun. Seriously windy but surprisingly dealable-with on the lower tier boulders. Lacking strength (you can't really work round it on a lot of boulder problems can you?!) and the feeling of grit fluency to commit to anything high though.

Su- Walk in Chew Valley with girlfriend. In keeping with tradition I took her on a scramble way out of her comfort zone- up the steep hillside to Ravenstones. One of those vertical-heather lungbusters in summer, but a type II fun peataneering adventure in the wettest winter ever^TM. Curiously she enjoyed it! Another fun day, very keen for Ravenstones when it's next in condition.

Three days climbing this week. Hoping to continue this and possibly add in some extra strength regaining stuff too.

[duncan]

STG: Rehab. finger hand. Strength work: fingerboard once a week as finger hand allows.
MTG: 7a+ OS and 7b RP in Chulilla in the new year.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.


M - Shoulders and hips.
T - Shoulder full routine. Fingerboarding. Warm-up plus ‘repeaters’ on the big slots. 4 mins hang time.
W - Shoulders and hips.
T - Westway: 16 routes in sets of 2 or 3 (hard aerocap.). Great session, felt nicely battered after.
F - Shoulders and hips. Inclined pull-ups.
S - Shoulders and hips.
S - Fingerboarding. Warm-up plus ‘repeaters’ on the big slots. 3 mins hang time. Stopped as palm of left hand tweaky: index finger flexor? One of the intrinsics? May have been a bit dehydrated, it was early morning. Or just not warmed up adequately, as all a little rushed.

A mostly good week, shoulders feeling solid, right middle finger now nearly resolved. Back to icing rather than compression “flossing” and feeling better for it. Good session on Thursday, felt like I was training rather than rehab.ing for the first time in a long time. Stupid or unfortunate tweak yesterday, not yet sure if it will be an issue or not. Was going to wonder aloud if I should focus mainly on strength, my big weakness, and probably the right thing to do for long-term gain, or top up the stamina for Chulilla in three weeks. The correct answer is probably anything that doesn’t hurt me.

Pete, Jonas and Alan, thanks for your thoughts on training rotator cuff last week. Pull-ups with feet on a high chair, body nearly nearly horizontal, seem to be hitting the spot and are a good posterior chain exercise too.

I haven’t had a chance to reply to your questions Pete but I’m not ignoring this. I’ve more or less stopped doing ‘core’ training research at the moment as when we did a proper trial it didn’t seem to be any more help for people with nonspecific back pain than doing much simpler exercises.

Coaxed out to Stanage by Lagers and Tomtom with offers of fresh aeropressed coffee and Portugese tarts. Warmed up on the Lone Boulder and then went to Brad Pit just in time to see Rob Greenwood waltz up it Spent next hour on it. OK getting heel up but was using the Blanco spur to pull down rather than rolling on to heel. Such an ace problem.

That's all very well but how were the Portuguese tarts?

[shark]

That's all very well but how were the Portuguese tarts?

From Roses the Bakers. Highly recommended. Not featured on their site but gorgeous. A custard tart in what seemed like filo pastry.

[lagerstarfish]

That's all very well but how were the Portuguese tarts?

From Roses the Bakers. Highly recommended. Not featured on their site but gorgeous. A custard tart in what seemed like filo pastry.

half way down the page

http://roses.aspirecreative.net/our-products/confectionery/