[fried]

STG - Training....

M - Another hunting day in the forest, all of the 3 pignons was out of bounds and I eventually ended up at Isatis, with no plans which was the plan. Opened my bag to find I'd forgotten my good shoes and only had my indoor resoles, so played on bits I'd never tried before. Climbed O.K and had a lot of fun. Last day of climbing in T-shirt?

Ticked off Exultation de la blanche http://bleau.info/isatis/3034.html which was good fun. Spent too long on a white slab prob http://bleau.info/isatis/3019.html, but just need to figure out the last move.

Lastly did a problem I saw on a vid. It's called Estelle 6C  which seems ridiculously over-graded (not in bleau.info), not sure if it's a 'Fun bloc' invention, if any one has a copy to hand.... it's between red 24 and 25....

T - Indoors,  O.K and happy not to start aching during the session.
W - F - Nothing, shoulder aches, tried to start my BM sessions, but too sore. Difficult sleeping since I can't sleep on my side.

Sa - Helping someone move appartment, and usual it takes all day and I do all the heavy lifting. Shoulder sore.

S - Tried to do an indoor session, but there was no train, so I went home. Probably for the best, hope shoulder is O.K for tomorrow.

[rodma]

M: quietly slipped into my forties
T:
W:
T:
F:
S:
S:

Another no training week, but the wee boy is over his cold and chest infection, and I'm almost over mine so hopefully normal sleep and health will resume and I'll be training again.

One trained through illness in years gone by, but really suffered from post-viral fatigue (whether due to training or not I'll never know but I used to train regardless ) so have learned my lesson.

[tomtom]

Happy Birthday Rodma - frustrating week... But often it's best just to rest and then get back on it - it normally comes back faster than you think...

[rodma]

Happy Birthday Rodma - frustrating week... But often it's best just to rest and then get back on it - it normally comes back faster than you think...

Cheers

Yeah, I'm not too frustrated about the situation, hopefully be back up to full power by the new year

[a dense loner]

Good plan, I'm gonna get on it this wk if my car allows

[Sasquatch]

Happy B-day Rodma -

M: quietly slipped into my forties

Do not go gentle into that good night,
Old age should burn and rave at close of day;
Rage, rage against the dying of the light.

Giving shoulder a break, so minimizing climbing related work

M- Weights - 5/3/1 week 2 day 1 - Bench and squats, Ab roller
T-Weights - 5/3/1 week 2 day 2 - Deadlift and OH Press, wtd Pullups, Ring Planks
W- Rest
T-Weights - 5/3/1 week 2 day 3 - Squats and Bench, Ab Roller
F-Weights - 5/3/1 week 2 day 4 - OH Press and Deadlift
S- Snow Bike, 2 hours in 8inches of Powder.  Hard and slow, but fun. 
S-Yoga

[Muenchener]

STG (2015): 6C on plastic, onsight 6b+ on plastic 2 x 6b os
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Sore abs from yesterday's steep bouldering session, which therefore must have dome something. Good.
   Bike to work 25km
T: Wall, Freimann. Nine routes (attempts) up to 6c+
W:   
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Short session with M jnr, again focusing on a non-fingery cave project, the main challenges of which are body tension and learning to use weird off-piste foot trickery* of which I have little experience. Blob campusing afterwards; didn't feel as strong as on Sunday.
F:
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Twelve routes (attempts) up to 6c.
S: Had intended to go hillwaking, but it snowed heavily in the mountains last night and I don't have winter tyres on my car yet. Organisational skills FAIL. Went for a log bike ride (4 hours) in the woods instead.

* weird off-piste foot trickery = anything other than edging, smearing and - at a pinch - backstepping. Today I used my first ever double heelhook pinch.

[filz]

Happy birthday Rodma

M - fb max hangs
T - lunch workout: push ups, L-sits, handstands, tuck planche. Afternoon: ring rows, bridges, head stands
W - board climbing pe: 2 circuits x 6 reps with 1' rest
T - rest
F - rest
S - isometric weight training. Finishers: hanging L-sit, squat, plank, ring rows
S - bouldering. Finally some cold in Italy! Went with some friends to try a 7b+ and 7c I had tried last time 6 months ago. Not bad, though conditions were not so good, but I need to relearn some moves

Inviato dal mio Nexus 7 utilizzando Tapatalk

[duncan]

Congratulations /commiserations rodma.

STG: Rehab. finger. Strength work: fingerboard or bouldering twice a week as finger allows.
MTG: 7a+ OS and 7b RP in Chulilla in the new year.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.

M - Shoulder and hip routine. Tired from weekend.
T - Westway: warmed up, still felt tired and tweaky. Unusually for me did the sensible thing and binned it.
W - Shoulders and hips.
T - Shoulders
F
S - Winspit - not the most inspiring of venues but it was lovely. The sky was unfeasibly blue,  cool and crisp, but almost t-shirt weather if you were in the sun and out of the wind. Seven routes to 6b+.
S - Shoulders and hips. Easy day.

Tiring week. Three late nights (concerts in Wimbledon and Barbican) and busy at work. Tweaks improving. Feel like I'm moving fairly well with a bit in reserve but still very cautious with the finger. Plan: as before, slowly ramp up the strength work

[Luke Owens]

M: Deadhangs - 20mm edge
Progressive Set - 10secs (No weight), 10 secs (No weight), 10 secs (2.5kg)
Main Set - 4 x 10 secs (5kg)

T: Rest

W: Local wall - 20 mins aerocap.

1 hour on the 45' board, managed a project and tried another I can do the individual moves on.

Attempted 4x4's and completely sandbagged myself and didn't realise it was only supposed to be 16 problems and ended up doing 64 problems... so a 4x4x4... Punter.

V1, V1, V2, V1 (2mins rest) x 4
Rest 2 mins 
V1, V1, V2, V1 (2mins rest) x 4
Rest 2 mins
V1, V1, V2, V1 (2mins rest) x 4
Rest 2 mins
V1, V1, V2, V1 (2mins rest) x 4 (Failed on the last move of the last problem on all 4 reps)

Completely ruined by the end...

T: Panymwyn Night Session - Repeated a 6B+ and 6C+. Trying the moves on Gasoline Stand and Panty's Down both (7A+) find both nails struggling to do the moves in isolation on Panty's.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Curbar - 2nd time on grit felt hard still, did a few 4+ and 5+. Did "Crack 'n Pockets" (6B+) and tried Trackside but couldn't get the top sloper on the arete. Ripped a massive flapper on my tip on the 6B+... Nightmare.

Feeling tired lately, aching like hell and don't feel like I'm recovering between sessions I don't think the 64 problems on Wednesday helped...

[shark]

Thanks fried.

10.13-11.2

M. AM Systems board  Bouldered for 20 mins then did 1 set of 20/10's = 120 moves. Full set of 20/10s just on incut edges. Eve Popped out to Burbage with lamps but didnt get anywhere on Blind Date undoubtedly due to Tomtom having greased up the holds earlier.
T. Interviewing in Walsall
W. AM systems board. Bouldered for 30 mins then did 1 set of 20/10's = 120 moves. Full set of 20/10s just on incut edges. Eve Peak Area Meet and Quiz
T.  Got twitterd by tomtom into going out. Went to CragX and was mint. Pounced on TT as he was having a Ben Moon style power nap. Made good progress on JR getting matched and going for low pinch several times. Realised that trying to drag holds here is usually the wrong choice. 3 hours of attempts. Magic. Eve Quaffing fine wine with Joe Picalli and Seb
F. Interviewing in Walsall. Caught a mild cold off a candidate
S. Noon. Snowy on tops. CragX 2degrees. Still bone dry. Bit glassy compared to thursday. Still getting shut down on JR going for low pinch several times. At end tried going for pinch using the small crimp above intermediate for left hand which may be the way for me. Ben did ok on it too.
S. Taxiing and report writing. Glad Tommy didnt want to go out on the grit as still have a low level cold

Good week. Should do more volume for endurance build up. Neglected the fingerboard as the bouldering I do on the systems board and outside is finger intensive. Alcohol guzzling on increase.   

[SA Chris]

40s the new 40. Happy birthday

M - went down the wall with Kyle as he had day off school (in service training). They were setting probs on bouldering wall so he wasn't in a good frame of mind due to them using airdrill and making a fuckload of noise. So he was happy to sit in a corner and eat sweets after a few routes an a bit of traversing and I managed to get a few problems done. Didn't warm up well and still feeling tired from Friday night, only got a few done before heading home
T - Some core
W - wall session. Had an OK 3 hours or so, but biceps and elbow were feeling sore by end of session
T - nowt, still sore
F- massage to loosen up elbows and biceps, definitely helped
S - morning swim with Cerys, afternoon walk in snow with Kyle, baltic!
S - morning wall session - did 10 or so routes 6a-6c actually (call it an aerocrap session) felt OK considering it's about 3rd time training on routes this year. ticked two boulder probs I had been trying first try before we left, amazed.
Brachioradialis feeling a bit sore but most likely after effects of massage.

[T_B]

84Kg

M -
T - School P.M. linked first 28 moves of Pink. Did a 38 move link in middle and last 1/3rd too. 1 x Purple circuit.
W -
T -
F - School lunch. Campus. 1-4-7 x 8 left and right. Double handed 1-3-2-4-3-5-4-6 x 2. Finshed with 1 x Purple circuit.
S -
S  - School p.m. 7.7 degrees and 59% humidity. Slow warm up then mainly 50 degree. Did Basic Jez, Woodology and repeated Mr Blobby (7C) first time since last year. Tried Schoolboy and Mrs TB suggested grabbing hold on crux as pinch and not crimp. Major breakthrough.. didn't quite do move but v close. Had a few links from start. Finished with attempts on circuits but tired.

3 session week but 3 high quality sessions... rest is good!

Happy 40th Rodma!

[Nibile]

Happy birthday Rodma!!!

Power Club

Mon - snatch complex x2, ab wheel. Really pleased, managed to do 6 reps of the 10" full stretch pause of the third "set" of the ab wheel!
Tue - rest. Surprisingly not too tired.
Wed - BM max hangs. Still good despite almost eight weeks since last session. Then a mighty Tabata with dumbbell thrusters. Agony.
Thu - FOA session, max foa's and contrast training. Heavy, still a bit tired from the BM session, that was mostly one armed. Dumbbell complex, 2 mins barbell carry. Heavy session. Doms.
Fri - rest. Doms.
Sat - dumbbell complex, power cleans, farmer's walk. Bad choice for the last excercise, forearms in agony again. What have I done on Wednesday?
Sun - barbell complex x2, hill sprints.

Some kind of rest week, not for the activity in itself, but from board climbing. After the last weeks on one single problem I was very happy to finally do it, and needed some specific and mental rest. Plus, I wanted to test the BM hangs. In doing so, I put in one of the heaviest sessions ever, with days and days of forearms Doms and pain. Brilliant. Amazing progress on ring monos.

[nai]

Happy Birthday Rodma.

Goals: train then crush

M - all set to train but got tempted out by the weather. Managed to pull off the floor on the Terrace for the first time 

T - rest

W - fingerboard & 3x25-30 Aero.  Overdid it a bit.

Th - struggled for 30 minutes to get warmed up, saw grey clouds rather than blue skies over the Peak and was happy not to bother.

F - Foundry - 4x4s, ended up doing 6 sets, 25 routes, average about 6b.

SS - nowt

[tomtom]

M: Had a tweet from Nai saying BurbageN was half decent so headed out and joined him at the Terrace. Warmed up on the Terrace :/ managed to get my arse about 15-20 cm off the ground on the first move which I considered a success. Moved on to Remergence where I failed on a warming Blind Date and had fun on various foot/holdless versions of remergence etc.. Nai left, and I moved over to BBGW to re-open the 15-16 season account on West Side Story.. after forgetting how to do the first move things went quite well. repeatedly got to lunging for 3rd sidepull - and held it once only for feet to get in the way of each other. Stopped before my left index finger went through.

T: Creaky pull on the BM

W: Birthday outing to Bristol - more than half way to 90 now.... In other words a work trip to Bristol to give a Seminar there... 7 hours on the train (there and back) nice burger and pint afterwards. back by 10..

Th: CragX after Shark relentlessly nagged me to go there via social media. He arrived late and tried to big daddy belly flop on top of me as I was having a reflective moment (dropping off) on my mat. Not bad connies - friction about as good as I've felt there. Some stuff wet, some dry (can give further reports if anyone wants to know more..). I managed all the moves on Zippys overlapping in various combinations ~ but could/can not string it all together - a mix of cold and pump. Never mind, enjoyable anyway.

Fr: Minor health issue with MrsTT - morning in various hospital units/places. All OK.

Sa: MrsTT's sister and her partner Dave came up from Londinium (well they did friday eve). Off to t'Roaches ~ beautiful - about an inch of snow - below freezing. Finding beginners problems was hard - upper tier servicable though top outs were sketchy. He had a good time - learning about smearing and topping out for the first time I had fun on Joe's arete (superb!). Fell badly on snow/rockshoe combo and bashed my hip




Su: A gorgeous day - so off to a lancashire quarry Having seen R-Mans rallying call on FB - went to Wiltons 4 and 2 for the first time. Good to meet some new people there (and all those good 'ol boys from the gun club too eh...) and came strangely close on a 7B+... then kind of cheated up a 7A arete and failed multiply on the proper way. All good though. Scared myself padding up a largely featureless slab and enjoyed it thoroughly.

[cheque]

STG- Extremes/ 7s on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.
MTG- 7b/+ in 2016
LTG- 8a

M- Rest.

Tu- Notts Depot. Climbing well. The super-steep comp wall I normally use all my energy up on had only a few problems on due to a recent comp so mainly did vertish stuff. Good training for the forthcoming present grit bouldering season.

W- Rest. Did my part for the UKB (and many others) team by knowing the answer to roughly 1 question on the quiz.

Th- Nothing.

F-Su- Kendal Mountain Festival. Amazing weekend, Stonnis was shown nine times & I introduced it personally for 6 of them. Seeing people turn up a few minutes before the end of the film before it and knowing they've come to see my film was such a buzz. Highlight was being part of a Grimer-hosted BMC event on the Sunday morning where they played the Mark20-on-Gaia section to an incredible reception from an audience which included most of my climbing and filmmaking heroes. Fantasy shit. Fucking hell. 

Plan is to increase the Climbing: Filmmaking stuff ratio again now it's cold and Kendal is over.

[Wood FT]

Nice one Cheque, looking at all those faces lit up reacting to your film is what it's all about.

[36chambers]

STG: ease myself into some sort of niggle friendly training program.
MTG: Jason's/Ben's/Dialectics
LTG: 8B

M:
T: lunch time circuit training
W:
T:
F:
S: Llanberis pass. Freezing. Spent a few hours warming up. Almost bagged a quick send of Bus Stop, but was abruptly stopped by the arrival of snow. Didn't even get a chance to pull onto Jerry's.
S: Wet day in Wales, ultimately ended up at a dry Castle Hill Quarry.

a welcomed, semi-forced, rest week. Now back to work

[dave]

Tried Schoolboy and Mrs TB suggested grabbing hold on crux as pinch and not crimp. Major breakthrough..

What, the banister hold?

[T_B]

Tried Schoolboy and Mrs TB suggested grabbing hold on crux as pinch and not crimp. Major breakthrough..

What, the banister hold?

I know. It sounds crazy. Instead of catching it half crimped with thumb on the side as you do, you just go for it as a pinch i.e. consciously grab it with thumb underneath.

[nai]

S: Wet day in Wales, ultimately ended up at a dry Castle Hill.

That's some journey in the search for dry rock, could of just tried the Cave ;-)

[dave]

Tried Schoolboy and Mrs TB suggested grabbing hold on crux as pinch and not crimp. Major breakthrough..

What, the banister hold?

I know. It sounds crazy. Instead of catching it half crimped with thumb on the side as you do, you just go for it as a pinch i.e. consciously grab it with thumb underneath.

Int that gonna cock you up for the next move, holding it like that?

[T_B]

What you saying I can't do a simple campus move off a pinch  ?

[dave]

Well after Tuesday you might.