Bm1k is a great board 3T. Much prefer it to my 2k...
(might swap out the BM1000 for a 2000).
I stopped climbing for a week and iced fairly regularly, it stopped hurting,
I have only climbed 2-3 times each week in the week and a bit since that, and while I was resting after that happened all my middle fingers', index fingers', and slightly my ring fingers' DIP and PIP joints now hurt if prodded.
Any ideas on how I should train around these finger injuries?
I'm actually going to sell my BM2000 as I think it's a level beyond what I need right now,
Basically, I have just been training on my board for the past 8 months or so, and crimping hard constantly. ... all my middle fingers', index fingers', and slightly my ring fingers' DIP and PIP joints now hurt if prodded.
STG - Get rid of my finger problems
Quote from: Pako on November 11, 2015, 02:54:33 amBasically, I have just been training on my board for the past 8 months or so, and crimping hard constantly. ... all my middle fingers', index fingers', and slightly my ring fingers' DIP and PIP joints now hurt if prodded. I'd be amazed if your fingers didn't feel a bit tender after that kind of punishment! As others have said, this is a normal response to that kind of unvarying training. Ice and massage will help the immediate issue a little but, Dave Mac would rightly emphasise, you've got to address the underlying issues. In this instance, and with only your posts here to go on, it would appear that you could use more variety in your training. See these aches as a helpful sign - an amber light - to take it easy for a little bit. You could easily be reporting a more significant injury.
Basically, I have just been training on my board for the past 8 months or so, and crimping hard constantly
Gaskins only trained on his board and never got injured - not ever never
Quote from: ashtond6 on November 09, 2015, 07:36:26 amI was in J-Tree saturday as well - nice weather!I dunno if US bouldering grades are too harsh - I think they're pretty fair on the whole - though I do think there are some traditional sandbags in the V2-5 range that should probably be bumped up, but never will be... The same could be said of font as well...BTW, I do agree that the grades at the lower end in Kraft are quite stiff.
Maybe but Gaskins only trained on his board and never got injured - not ever never
Thanks heaps for the suggestions. I live in a place where there aren't any gyms around, but hopefully soon I will make more trips down to a gym, so that instead of climbing on the board 4 times a week it would be three times. I do a fair bit of rings and bar exercises, but I usually do those on rest days from climbing. No physio anywhere here either, apart from an online one. I'll just keep on climbing once or twice a week on the board and slowly increase volume, and keep on icing after every session (which I have been doing). No more crimping for a long time either, slopers are good fun anyway. Next year should be better anyway, since I will be training at a proper gym that one can warm up at and has slabs and less steep sections.
Plus Shark, the reason Pako cant go to the physio 5 times a month or whatever is, i suspect, perhaps cos he's not a frickin millionaire fat cat rich cunt like you
only trained on his board and never got injured - not ever never
Quote from: shark on November 11, 2015, 06:03:45 pmonly trained on his board and never got injured - not ever neversounds too good to be true
obviouslyx
STG: any indoor V7
Thanks all for the psyche / ideas - all good ideas.I'm actually going to sell my BM2000 as I think it's a level beyond what I need right now, and replace with one of the thin Crusher ones which a) are more suitable for what I need and b) is probably more likely to be allowed to be put up in the kitchen.I don't think I fall into the "crack your knuckles and get on with it" TB school of training, in fact every time I do hangs with a 90 degree bend I can feel my elbows screaming so will just have to take it easy.
Quote from: rginns on November 13, 2015, 01:08:34 amSTG: any indoor V7Easily achieved if you climb elsewhere than BUK!