[shark]

11.0 - 11.1

M. Decided to start training endurance for Chulilla. Did 3 x 20/10s = 360moves on systems board using incut edges on 10's and rounded jugs on 20's. Figured starting wih a 10 on each set makes more sense than a 20. Surprised at how fit I was. Will work towards doing the 20/10s on just the edges and then maybe on the screw on footholds. Brief go on crusher crimps at start and still strong on them
T.
W. Noon. Up with Nick, Toby and Maddy. Expected Oak to be dry but there was dirty black wet streak virtually the full length of the route. Cons x 2 F&EEE x 2. Holds greasy. Joined in with Nick on Raindogs. Best go was a top rope in overlapping halves which I was pleased with. Started top roping F&EEE at end but lost will to live. Got home. Nick stayed and we demolished a couple of bottles of red each.
W. Hungover
T.
F. Noon. Systems board Played on Crusher crimps and undercuts for 20 mins then did 2 x 20/10s = 240 moves on systems board using incut edges on 10's and incut edges for first 20 then rounded jugs after. Reverted to starting with a 20
S.
S. Malham. Filthy weather. Most stuff wet. Did Consenting 3x. Put a rope on Raindogs. Starting holds wet so stuffed  shopping bag and rag in holds Tommy worked it then first redpoint got up to final bolt. Second redpoint he got his fingers to the belay krab. I had a few unimpressive goes. Temperature warmed up and everything greased out.  Packed up early. Did a bit of deadhanging and arm work when home before dinner. 
 
Operation Stamlord now underway in prep for Jam trip to Chulilla – hence AeroCap work. Still gathering my thoughts on how best to crush the Oak in the Spring french blowing and scratching my arse all the way. May start a thread 
This week’s aim. Stop guzzling wine and get back under 11 stone


Here we go – sorry about the top. Also he doesn’t do the leg swing by the second

[cheque]

Tommy looks solid on Raindogs- he's come on so much since when I was last there (end of August?).  :strong bench:

Malham looks bleak though!

[Teaboy]

Good skills from Tommy there, pity it's currently wet

[SA Chris]

M - short wall session. Fairly productive but nothing revolutionary. Reset in roof, so worked on a few things there. Sick child up 4 or 5 times in the night.
T - nothing - wiped - stared at TV for a few hours and went to bed. Relatively better night sleep wise all praise anti biotics.
W - good longer wall session. Manged to get prob I was working on roof, and one on 45 deg that has eluded me so far. Plus "easy" grey slug holds prob that has eluded me for weeks.
T - some core.
F - some weights
S - nothing
S - some IKEA building, elbow feels a bit tweaky

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

Raining a lot this week...

M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Usual Tuesday. Flashed all new problems bar hardest 2 and started making new ones straight away. Everyone else was struggling on the panel and I found it really easy which is good I guess. Campus, shoulder work, fingerboard, push ups and some core after. Rain.
W: Rest. Rain
T: St Peters. Don't get over here that much. Been ages since last time so just going through as many of the harder problems that I can. Did a lot of stuff, got close on a bunch of things and failed on others. Flashed a few supposedly "hard" dyno problems which were fun.
F: Rest. Beers. Too many beers. Rain...
S: Deep Creek. Hungover. Rain forecast for late arvo, reckoned that Deep Creek would dry out pretty quick and I bet right. It's up on a hill and next to a lake, nice and exposed to the wind. Warmed up on Jimmy's 5 and then jumped back onto Night Crawler V8 (finishes up the 5) to sort out the first move(s) as I got the rest first session. All on crimps with a barely rest after a few tough moves... Took awhile to work it out (weird toe cam and drop knee into blind toe and heel hook...), all the while watching the rain hitting the city in the distance. Hope was to just get the first section dialed this session but after I got that, might as well try and go for the top. Got all the way through the low moves and then fell off the hard move of the 5. Twice. Had to pack up at this point because the rain was coming over the lake right toward me... Grrrr....
S: Deep Creek,  Seaforth and St Leonards. Overcast and windy. Nice and coolish. Back to Deep Creek in the morning, warmed up on the 5 doing it first go (never first go...), then started trying Night Crawler from the start. Fucked up blind foot placement a couple times (swore I did it like that yesterday...) but then did it right and went to the top. Fucking yes! Did the 2nd half again to top for other angle on video and packed up... Pleased. 2nd V8. 
Stopped by Seaforth, another micro-crag with 3 problems: V2, V8, V10 (unrepeated since put up in 2010....). The 8 is fairly high and looks quite cool so threw pads under and started working it. The rock is sharp and it's a tough problem. Didn't last long on it and only getting to maybe halfway point (problem is ~6m high).
Late arvo went to the St Leonards with mates. Warmed up doing bunch of harder problems first go and tried some of my made up problems. Bunch of campussing after.

Hard rose on Night Crawler. Bottom section is all slopey crimps...



And topping out.

[Muenchener]

STG: ?
MTG: ?
LTG (2016/2017): Redpoint 7b's with dance-themed names (Sautanz, Brachiation)

Am backing off the climbing training for a couple of weeks. My climbing performance has stagnated, fingers are feeling battered in general and left middle A2 pulley in particular has been quite sore for a while. Recovery / general fitness phase.

M:
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Short bouldering session + weighted pullups 4 x 3 x +10kg.
W:   Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes. Eight routes up to 6b+.
T:
F:
S: Hillwalking, Herzogstand. 1:20 for 800 metres height gain w/15kg rucksack. This is a pleasant walk and conveniently less than an hour from home, so a good baseline for alpine/aerobic fitness.
S: Family bike outing. M jnr wanted to go plane spotting so rode to the airport. 3 hours on the bike in total, mostly in woodland along the river. Very pleasant.
   Evening: wall, Thalkirchen. Light bouldering session with M jnr. Took advantage of being at the wall and wanting to go easy on pulleys by doing a few sets of max hangs on the nice dirty sticky BM slopers - much easier than the nasty clean, slippery ones I have at home. And weighted pullups 4 x 3 x +10kg.

[T_B]

84.5Kg

M -
T -
W - Foundry lunch - light bouldering
T - School lunch - light bouldering
F - Foundry lunch - light bouldering
S -
S - School pm. Bouldering, mainly up problems on circuit board. One go at pink circuit managing 20-move link.

Back has been bad all week, finally released Sunday afternoon not sure doing what, maybe just fettling with kids bikes. Felt fine Sunday evening, though it doesn't feel as though I'm completely out of the woods.

[Nibile]

S/MTG - board projects.

Mon - dumbbell complex, power cleans pyramid completed for first time. Hill sprints. Fantastic.
Tue - rest.
Wed - foa's. Not enough time to do a contrast training session, just tested form with a few foa's, good progress. Both left and right. Clearly foa's affect less my dodgy left shoulder girdle and luckily my elbows as well. Good speed also. Work to be done on the edge though, but it was very hot. Jumps, power press/overhead walk combo.
Thu - not enough time for bouldering. Did one foot bouldering with 8 kg, all 4 test problems. Big big improvements. Feet bolted to the board. Brilliant. Dumbbell complex, power clean/shoulder carry combo. Very heavy session. 
Fri - rest.
Sat - board climbing. Good links on the project, did it in two overlapping halves, still very hard. Barbell complex, dumbbell complex.
Sun - board climbing. Tired, didn't have enough in the tank to try the project, so rehearsed crux sequences of various problems. I got a lot more consistent, promising. Short links, got better during the session.

[ashtond6]

Missed a week as im abroad so here is a brief one:

M Indoor bouldering
T Rest
W Rest
T Indoor bouldering
F Rest
S V2/3 highball 5.11b Circuit Breaker, yosemite
S Easy highballs at Happy Boulders (bishop)

M snowed at Buttermilks, did a V1 highball before it started
T snowed
W rained
T rest as sandstone wet
F bouldering Kraft Mountain, did a nice circuit V4
S bouldering Joshua tree. Did yabo roof at V3, (Joshua tree v3 = UK V4+/5?!?)
S rest


I really suck at bouldering and often don't have the drive to try hard. I want to change this but I'm struggling!

Seems I climb routes at my max boulder grade!

Ps USA bouldering grades are nails.... Either we are too soft or they are too harsh!

[fried]

Meh.

M- Brother-in-law hospitalised with Guillain-Barré syndrome, so pretty crap week (he'll be fine but it's going to take a while).
T - Nothing
W - Very humid indoor session with little direction. Tweaked my thumb.
Th - Nothing
F - Planned to start my BM sessions in the morning but thumb tweaky.
S - At Hospital
Su - took Nephew to Hottee du diable and invented some kid's stuff for him. I did 2 blue problems. 20° today WTF. Back to hospital.

In better news I'm not working today and the sun in shining....

[Falling Down]

STG: Lose 5kg

Thought I'd join in again...

Sun - 1.5 hour bike ride moderate pace
Mon - 2k row & kettlebells
Tue - Pressups and squats

Thur to Sun on holiday in Berlin. Lots of walking but lots of eating and drinking also.

[nai]

Week of base training, core and mobility.
5 AeroCap sessions, some current stuff, some new stuff, some old stuff revisited.
Some good, some not so, retrying old stuff confirms progress.
4 1/2 hours contact time.

[tommytwotone]

STG: regain pre-parenthood levels of ability / fitness
LTG: Font 7b


M: Nowt.
T: Horrid day at work. Leeds Wall after. Quite intense, powered round the greens (V4ish) and the a few of the reds (V5ish). Beers afterwards.
W: Gym on lunch. 500m row warmup then 10 x 5 of strict push-ups, 25kg shoulder press and BW (65kg) deadlifts. Hard.
T: Nowt.
F: Gym on lunch. Tried Weds workout but just didn't have the physical / mental appetite.
S: Nowt.
S: Nowt.


Not getting to climb very much for a number of reasons so just trying to keep ticking over with gym sessions. Quite depressing when I do climb though as I feel like every time I do it highlights how quickly I am going backwards!

[Schnell]

STG: rehab finger injuries, at risk of jinxing myself, this is kind of done (yyfy) and now more a matter of gradually increasing load without reinjury.
MTG: get back to bouldering at reasonable standard

this week's entry is really just a report of a trip to Chulilla where I did some moderate onsighting, no redpointing at all.
Sun last week: first day, not great weather and did an afternoon at Peneta. onsighted a 6c+ slab with holds crumbling between my fingers.
M. lots of rain, no climbing
T. lots of wet rock so choice was a bit constrained, just wandered about trying some things without worrying about whether they were meant to be good or not. As a result I did some of the worst sport routes I've ever tried, bad rock and dirty
W. went to Ca Germa/Nanopark and onsighted up to 7a. some nice routes and good rock here
T. rest
F. realize I don't have much time left, climbed at Pared de Enfrente and did a few 6cs and onsighted a great v. pumpy 7a+, just about making it to the top
S. Lamentaciones, few easier routes and a good onsight of catador de sake 7a+/7b, got desperately pumped, got sequences wrong about three times but just about made it. happy with this.

Had a ropy start and wasn't that keen on Chulilla to begin with, but the last few days were brilliant and I was psyched to do a bit of quality sport climbing, although I didn't even try anything hard. Going to take it easy this week and then go back to trying to get some bouldering umf back in the next month or two.

[tomtom]

M: Beastmaker session - working the back 2/3
Tu: Harmers. Came quite close to Mudlark in iffy conditions
We: Work/travel/no time
Th: Logport Wall. Good session - felt like I was climbing well
Fr: Logport Wall. Medium outing - tired from day before
Sa: Beastmaker (large slots) whilst listening to the Sat afternoon football scores roll in..
Su: Big Sunday lunch - couple of beers..

The week can be summed up in two words: Weather; Meh.

[36chambers]

STG: sort out niggles
MTG: Jason's Roof/Ben's groove sitter
LTG: 8B

M: indoors, easy session, mostly on roofs as more finger friendly.
T: circuit training lunch. conditioning evening.
W: indoors, thought I had taken it easy, but my tweaky finger was swollen and agitated afterwards. I find it impossibly to tell during a session whether I've taken it too far.
T: week 9 of the gym ball core program.
F: rest, friend visiting.
S: indoors. Grim weather. Flashing easy problems.
S: rest

[cheque]

STG- Extremes/ 7s on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.

MTG- 7b/+ in 2016

LTG- 8a

M-W Rest/ nothing

Th- Notts Depot. First time in weeks. Flashed quite a few red (third hardest circuit) problems but burnt myself out on a long roof one that I kept greasing off (still shorts weather on plastic but I didn't take any) and tried harder problems fruitlessly after that. Didn't feel too worked.

F- Rest. As usual after an indoor session I feel absolutely rinsed despite not feeling so at the time.

Sa- Not feeling good with sore throat. Go to football match, try not to shout too much.

Su- Still feeling crap. Nothing.

Not feeling positive about climbing this week. It's wet and still surreally hot for the time of year but I'm weaker on plastic than I've been at this point in the last 3-4 winters, partly due to working on films, which I feel very positive about. I'd hoped to pull my finger out and do some proper indoor training this weekend but illness put paid to that.

[SA Chris]

Quite depressing when I do climb though as I feel like every time I do it highlights how quickly I am going backwards!

Sounds like early stages of parenthood. Don't worry it gets to a point when you are climbing so rarely you forget how good you used to be, then reaches a point when you are just glad to be climbing!

[shurt]

STG: climb outside
MTG: do something which makes me feel I've not lost all my strength - V5, 7a something of that ilk.
LTG: same as it ever was (c) David Byrne

M: I can't remember think I was still ill
T: Went to have a look at the traverse underneath the Sea Mills bridge (Bristol) as heard it used to be an old pre climbing wall training venue. It wasn't bad, bit like Henry Price (for any Leeds alumni out there) but much smaller crimps. I didn't manage the full traverse but got some good links, god knows how hard it is - 7a+? Maybe harder. Had to stop as fingers hurt, not in a bad way though.
W: Think I did 5 pull ups, fingers still reeling from previous day.
T: 2 sets on fingerboard
F: 1 set on fingerboard + 2 x 20 press ups
S: 2 x 10 pull ups
S: nothing

Planning to get out this Saturday depending on weather so fingers crossed.

[rodma]

Mon: foot on campussing at home, still too dodge to attempt footless
Tue:
Wed:
Thurs: stronger foot on campussing and deep pullups etc.
Fri:
Sat: wall session: first footless campussing post virus. not great, but not too bad 1-5-7 smalls ok, but nowhere near (previous weeks) tapping 8th rung first try each side. don't attempt any one-handed stuff, that'll wait another week. finish with a few easy problems.
Sun:

Feeling human again this week at least. i always find it hard to gauge just how hard to train post-virus, think I've got it right but i feel a bit lazy 

Quite depressing when I do climb though as I feel like every time I do it highlights how quickly I am going backwards!

It does get a bit easier once sleep cycles settle down, so long as you can organise your sessions well. i mostly train at home which makes a big difference, but am back to pre-dad strength (notwithstanding viral setbacks) and am not a youngster by any (other than ukb) standards

Wed - foa's. Not enough time to do a contrast training session, just tested form with a few foa's, good progress. Both left and right. Clearly foa's affect less my dodgy left shoulder girdle and luckily my elbows as well. Good speed also. Work to be done on the edge though, but it was very hot.

look strong, like the video. I'll post some up again once I'm back on it.

[Will Hunt]

STG: Heaven in your Hands
MTG: FA projects; Two Squirrels; Crystal Method; Secret Seventh; Terry; Rogue (Bat Buttress)
LTG: 8A (possibly something like Vogue at Bat Buttress)


M: Board session. Felt good and good to do another day on after Sigsworth (any tiredness I felt was probably due to the walk in as opposed to the climbing we did!). Switched to bigger crimps and incredi-crap footholds and started to get nicely dialled into them. Set a couple of projects and did them, so can clearly go harder. Finished with 5 x leg raise type exercise (1 rep = hold top of board, pull up and touch right toe to top right of board, down, pull up and touch left toe to top left of board, down)

T: Front lever progressions. Got warmed up and attempted some tuck levers. Got the missus to comment on form and it seems like form was acceptable but didn't hold the positions for very long.

W:

Th: Depot. Made myself climb predominantly on rooves. Was totally shit and got progressively worse as night went on due to hot and sweaty feet slipping around in shoes (heel bagging out on one crucial heel hook in particular). Felt useful to work a weakness. Will try and make a Depot session a weekly event. Had a chat to Will Buck (thoroughly nice young man) who made Rogue and Vogue sound absolutely fucking nails! 

F: Wine, beer and tapas

S:

Sun: Board session. Didn't eat properly beforehand so felt low on energy throughout. Set a couple of new projects which I couldn't do but which should go. Finished 3 x 5 leg raisey things which is a PB (if indeed you can call such a weak performance a "best").


A couple more weeks of rain like this and I'll be a fucking machine. Bought two lamps on Saturday so am primed and ready for a night session!

[Will Hunt]

MTG: Jason's Roof/Ben's groove sitter

Wot, no Zoo York? Is this because of your finger woes?

[tommytwotone]

Quite depressing when I do climb though as I feel like every time I do it highlights how quickly I am going backwards!

It does get a bit easier once sleep cycles settle down, so long as you can organise your sessions well. i mostly train at home which makes a big difference, but am back to pre-dad strength (notwithstanding viral setbacks) and am not a youngster by any (other than ukb) standards

Cheers (and Chris too!)...it's more a matter of not getting the time on wall / rock to even consolidate, let alone improve. Never been the strongest / fittest but the speed with which any kind of power, finger strength and endurance has left me is quite depressing.


Short term plan is to keep plugging away at the gym lifting / tabata-ing. Need to shift the Beastmaker from our manky damp cellar to somewhere more useful where I'll actually do stuff on it but need to find an other half-friendly location / solid enough wall!

[36chambers]

MTG: Jason's Roof/Ben's groove sitter

Wot, no Zoo York? Is this because of your finger woes?

I only include my current favourite problems, otherwise the list would be ridiculously long . But you're right, Zoo York is quite grim on the left hand, so for now it's decreased in priority.

[36chambers]

...who made Rogue and Vogue sound absolutely fucking nails! 

well, you wouldn't want it to be easy.