[fried]

Strange week.

M - Not working and the weather is looking fantastic, I still wasn't feeling great but no intention of missing days like this. Dropped a couple of paracetamol on the peripherique and headed for Canche aux merciers,  still felt out of sorts on my warm-up. I was planning to finish off some more of the blue circuit, but as usual this lasted 2 problems.

Got a bit of a sweat on and started feeling better Flashed the easiest 5C I've ever tried. http://bleau.info/canche/11975.html. Embarassing grading.

Then found myself in front of Jeu des jambes which I've never tried, heel-hooked my way along the traverse really slowly, but fluffed the end. Second go much quicker, then did something bizarre at the end and pulled defeat from the jaws of victory, too tired for a third go, but pretty happy with the tries.

Decided to finish with a go at another low-ball one move slab that I've failed to get off the ground on for years http://bleau.info/canche/3627.html. First go looked promising....finished it in 5 or 6 goes. Very happy. Longest seige of a 6A ever? Climbs surpisingly well.

T/W - Rest
Th - Planned to climb but still coughing, decided to leave it and wait for the weekend.
Fr/ S - Nothing, but feeling back on form.

Su - I had too much time on my hands this week, watched far too many youtube vids, resulting in ridiculously high levels of psyche and over-confidence. Disappointment was bound to follow. Went to Rocher Canon with a far too long hit list of problems to finish or try. Climbed badly at the start (a bit greasy), not feeling confident on anything. Hands glassy.

Took a long time to warm up, then got slapped off lots of stuff that I was looking better on when it was 30° in the summer. Bah.

Time to get back to training.

Weight a little up to 74.9kg. Need to watch that next week.

[rodma]

Every post I read of yours fried where you maybe haven't climbed as well as you would like, I still always think "that lucky bastard, of all of the places to have a bad session" :D

Mon-Fri: finally getting over the last of the h, f and m.
Sat: wall session. Take it really easy, first session in over two weeks, have to be careful.
Sun: resting

[fried]

Yeah, I know. I feel guilty grumbling sometimes

[Muenchener]

STG: redpoint 7a #4
MTG (2015): redpoint 7a+ ... neither of these look realistic now, the good weather must be running out
LTG (2016/2017): Redpoint 7b's with dance-themed names (Sautanz, Brachiation)

M:
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Short bouldering session with M jnr. Focus on roof/big hold/body tension stuff: not my specialist subject.
W:   Wall, Thalkirchen. Ten routes up to 6b. I've had very little motivation for plastic routes lately, but I actually enjoyed this. Which is good because winter is coming and there's no grit around here, so I'm going to have to retreat indoors at some point.
   Not yet though.
T: Half an hour mobility, shoulders, core
F:
S: Ötztal. Visited a new (to me) crag, Amberg.  Hyper technical steep-but-slopey-at-the-same-time granite, combined with ludicrously sandbagged grades, made attempting anything with a larger number attached to it a complete non starter. Was pleased to manage the "6b" I was attempted in only five goes. Great fun though.
S: More Austrian Autumn Fun: excellent bolted multipitch on the Burschlwand, teeshirts in the sun, who needs the Costa Blanca?

[JackAus]

Yeah, I know. I feel guilty grumbling sometimes

Glad I'm not the only one.... I feel like its a rubbish week if I only get 1 day outdoors.... 

[Ti_pin_man]

shite week. Took a few days off any training and then returned to a wall and got shit down.  Put it down to poor diet prep and feeling flat but then fuelled up and repeated more flat!  Boo hiss. So this weekend went in fuelled again and was very average but hurt my shoulder.  Went back today as it felt OK and ticked some I didn't the day before but still not on the top of the wave the previous couple of weeks.  Hopefully my coach will sort me Tuesday and get me back on the wagon!  Ahh such is life.  I put it down to some home life stress and poor diet. 

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

M: Balmoral. Micro-crag. 2nd session on a V8 (Lovers Tiff Left) there, last time was back in Feb. Insanely humid and hot. Got all the moves finally but linking them is very difficult. Swim after.
T: 9 Degrees and St Leonards.
9d: New black circuit (world cup style comp problems V2-V9, lots of run and jump shit). Tried to flash all of them (about 20-25 problems). Flashed most and there was only 4 that I couldn't do that session. Would only have max 5 attempts at each.
St Leonards: Usual Tuesday. Ticked all new problems bar hardest 2 (one of them no one has ticked yet and the other only 1 person (v12/13 crusher) and started making new ones straight away. Campus, shoulder work, fingerboard, push ups and some core after. Beast of a day.
W: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Warmed up doing nearly all the new problems (mates getting pissy I'm warming up on his projects haha) then made some up. Some cracking hard moves... Usual campussing, shoulder work, fingerboard, light core and some press ups.
F: Rest!
S: The Lip and The Trenches.
The Lip is a shitty lowball cave with a handful of hard problems that actually climb a lot better than they look (V7, 2xV8, V10, 3xV11 & V12...). Warmed up on one of the 8s (Whats Blue and Green and Red All Over?), out the roof and straight into a slopey mantley top out. Did all of it besides the final top move, grrr... Losing alot of skin so jumped onto the 10 (All The Tables Are Reversed In My Private Universe). Very fun climb and hard! Awesome compression moves, toe hooks, heel hooks and slopey mantle to finish.... Just wish the cave was a metre higher off the ground...
Over the other side of the valley to The Trenches to run a circuit. Did maybe 20 problems, while some mates work on some stuff (their 2nd and 1st times at the crag). Well and truly no skin now....
S: Deep Creek and The Den.
Deep Creek, another micro crag with only 4 problems on the one boulder (V5, V8, V9, V10). Did the V5 in a handful of goes, tough and crimpy with no skin! Then tried the V8 low start. Got all the moves quickly, besides the very first move. Ledge under the cave looked too big for it to be in so was trying without, asked the developer and he got back to me in the arvo saying it was in........ Oh well, back soon I guess.
Down the road to The Den. Had only been here once before to start working Fight Club V10 in the middle of summer and got pretty shut down, not ticking anything at all... Still fucking warm and humid so perfect conditions. Its a massive cave but really likes to seep and drip, so alot of things stay wet even when we haven't had any rain in a while. Tried a V8 traverse on slopers, wet feet so stopped. Got back onto Fight Club, first move is crux. Brutal undercling slap to sloper. I can now pull on better but no where near enough power to slap..... The rest I can do from that one move in... But wet pockets... So jumped back on the V5 warm up that I couldn't do last time............ Still couldn't fucking do it. Got onto the best looking problem here: Kyle's Rule. Only gets V6 but its fucking hard but it does look really cool. Had a few decent goes working out moves, just the last 2 to go and then had a great fall. Called it a day after that and went home.
Stopped by St Leonard's in the evening to drop something off to a friend and did a quick couple laps on campus jugs while waiting for her.




Lovers Tiff Left crux. Left hand hold is incut but sharp and its a brutal cut on my fingers.




All The Tables.... When description says compression, I do compression. Got home and watched a clip of a mate doing it and I was making it alot harder........

[shurt]

Goals, smoales...

M: did 10 pull ups
T: started to get a cold (rest of the family have it, thought I'd avoided it). Ended up in bed.
W: in bed all day, felt tripe
T: Got out of bed eventually, still feeling crap
F: In some act of desperation tried to do some stuff on fingerboard to maintain motivation. Managed 2 sets then stopped
S: Nothing, still not well
S: Snotsville, tried more on fingerboard, managed one set, then had to stop.

Weird week. Can't believe I'm ill again after only just getting rid of the last thing. Somehow some motivation has returned even through it all which feels like a good thing. Can't wait to get outside soon for bouldering or winter sport action, feel like I've missed days and days of clear days.

[36chambers]

STG: Get back into crush mode
MTG: Jason's Roof, Ben's Groove sitter
LTG: 8B

M: Indoors. Easy session, no finger aggravation.
T: Lunch circuit training: big leg session, lots of burpees and jumping squats
W: Worse DOMS of my life. Literally struggling to walk, stairs were out of the question.
T: DOMS. Sacked off indoor climbing as it wouldn't have been possible. Core and fingerboarding instead.
F: lesser DOMS. Friend's wedding, danced somewhat.
S: Widdop. To try the elusive Fight on the Black 7B. Completely dry apart from the top break which turned out to be green and slimy. Gutted as the bottom moves felt piss.
S: Widdop. Blue skies following a rainless night. Still filthy and un-cleanable/climbable. I don't think I have ever found it in good nick and with acceptable connies. It's not even that hard. FotB 6 - Me 0. 


Since all the ferns are pretty much dead now, I feel like I'm just ticking over waiting for Caley to come into condition.
 

[tomtom]

I've had that a couple of times with FotB (wet break) then come back when it's dry and been shut down by the bottom :D I think it needs a good few dry and windy days to de spooge the break (N facing iirc).

[rginns]

A long time since I've posted on the training front but I've been getting back into it in The last few weeks and I'm starting to feel psyched for the plastic again.

STG: any indoor V7, if I can get outside: 7B
MTG: indoor V8, outdoor 7B+
LTG: outdoor 7C

M - good session at BUK with R-man and Sian, mostly pottered although I managed a V6 fairly quickly, feeling ok with all the board work although only have around 20-30 mins after warming up before power starts to wane a little so I need to be focussed.
T - 1 hour on the board, New problems
W - 1 hour on the board, circuit and lock offs
T - 1 hour on the board, New problems and projects
F - night off
S - 1.5 hours on the board, circuit
S - 30 mins on the board, short sesh

Managing to get on the board for frequent short sessions really fits in with work and family so getting 7 hours training in a week with little impact is amazing.
3rd week now and I'm starting to feel fitter, even though I'm eating crap and doing virtually no cardio...

[36chambers]

I've had that a couple of times with FotB (wet break) then come back when it's dry and been shut down by the bottom :D I think it needs a good few dry and windy days to de spooge the break (N facing iirc).

It's such a tease. Widdop's close to my parents house, so I only ever go when I'm visiting them and have the chance to nip out for a few hours. So far this has yet to coincide with good conditions.

[nai]

Had an indulgent week off ahead of a new training block starting this week.
58kg this morning, up 2kg in 10 days 

[SA Chris]

STG - lose 3/4 stone
MTG - get stronger
LTG - not get injured

M- hardish weights and core session
T - nothing much, a light bit of theraband
W - wall session about 2 hours. Managed my aim for the evening in the first 15 minutes, so was at a bit of a loss. Did a few things I've gone before and then put some effort in on a few of the harder things, made some minor progress on one, but lacked much motivation
T - CV for about 45 mins
F - Nothing
S - Nothing
S - 15 miles on bike in evening. Nice clear night, but kept stopping as back derailleur was being shit. Spotted owl on the road, cool.

[cheque]

STG- Extremes/ 7s on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.

MTG- 7b/+ in 2016

LTG- 8a

M-Sa- Nothing. Walked a bit on Saturday

Su- Almscliff. Had been staying in Newcastle at the weekend but conensation-fest stupidly warm temps (people -not even geordies- were eating on the tables outside restaurants on Saturday night!) made me reluctant to drive up into the county and climb on damp rock so stopped at the Cliff on the way back. Choice of either too hot or soaking wet followed by extra-thick fog as soon as it cooled down. Did some easy stuff.

Another more-or-less powerfree week. Working on photo/ film stuff weeknights meant I didn't make it to the wall.

[tommytwotone]

STG: Get back to where I was before fatherhood
LTG: Font 7b


M: Nowt, drivign back from Scotland
T: Nowt.
W: Gym on lunch - 500m row @ sub 7min 2k pace then: 10 x 5 bodyweight deadlifts, 10 x 5 50% bodyweight shoulder press, 10 x 5 strict pushups. Battered.
T: Depot after work - bit of a half-arsed session doing everything but the final move of stuff, kinda frustrating.
F: Nowt.
S: Was going out but last-minute had my pass revoked (or rather I handed it back in the interests of a quiet life). Sound like a good day to miss out on to be honest.
S: Nowt much - went to the farm shop and looked at animals and ate ice cream with Una.

[T_B]

85.3Kg

M -
T - Max hangs. 1 x 25Kg, 3 x 30Kg front 3, 1 x 20Kg, 3 x 25Kg half crimp. Managed 4 x 6 or 7 seconds middle 2 with 10Kg.
W - School p.m. 1-5-8 x 3 on right, 1-4-7 multiple on left. 1-3-2-4-3-5 x 3 double-handed. 50deg board v close twice on Mr Blobby. Finished with 2 goes on pink, best go doing 28 moves.
T -
F - 1 x 25Kg, middle 3, 3 x 30Kg middle 3. 1 x 20Kg half crimp, 3 x 25Kg half crimp, 1 x 7 secs 8Kg middle 2, 2 x 10 secs 8Kg, 1 x 7 secs 9Kg. P.M. had meant to do a bouldering session but pulled my back picking a hat up off the floor.
S -
S - Back felt OK so went to School p.m. Tweaked it after warm up so did some deadhangs on various holds.

Finished Steve Maisch 5wk max hangs block. Went from being able to hold middle two bottom rung on BM with no weight for 10 secs to 8Kg. V unhealthy w/e hence disappointing weigh in. Need to take it easy on back for a few days.

[tommytwotone]

STG: Get back to where I was before fatherhood
LTG: Font 7b


M: Nowt, drivign back from Scotland
T: Nowt.
W: Gym on lunch - 500m row @ sub 7min 2k pace then: 10 x 5 bodyweight deadlifts, 10 x 5 50% bodyweight shoulder press, 10 x 5 strict pushups. Battered.
T: Depot after work - bit of a half-arsed session doing everything but the final move of stuff, kinda frustrating.
F: Nowt.
S: Was going out but last-minute had my pass revoked (or rather I handed it back in the interests of a quiet life). Sound like a good day to miss out on to be honest.
S: Nowt much - went to the farm shop and looked at animals and ate ice cream with Una.

No idea why that went tiny-text on me there.

[tomtom]

MTG: Weight to 66.6kg. The weight of the beast :D Which also translates to 10.5 stone.. Anyway I found the number amusing and it seemed appropriate as a goal. Seeing as I don't have any...

M: Knackered from Sunday - rest.

Tu: Work. Football in evening (watching not playing) Extra time, Penalties, Victory...

We: Work -

Th: Logport Wall for a lunchtime session. Really good - full two hours - felt good.

Fr: Large lunch then off to Buckstones to try PiaP etc... campussed better - but felt like lead and was really really tired. Felt crap all evening - in bed by 9,,,

Sa: Work. Lots of driving - long day.

Su: Only had the opportunity for a quick morning session as MrsTT wanted to spend some time with me (god knows why... ) So off to Brownstones for about 9:30, where it was poking above the clag. Tops off weather - roasting. Didnt even look at Hanks (too warm) but clunkily warmed up and did Boopers (6B) and Boopers SS (7A) that have been on the list for a while. Found a nice way to do the sit too. Pissed about on Dezertion and went home.

Fairly crap week really... never mind - them's the breaks... feels a bit like its neither Lime season (my enthusiasm for the white stuff has faded) nor Grit season (its way too warm still) ~ and I'm caught in between. Lets have a few good frosts and sort it out...

[Will Hunt]

STG: Heaven in your Hands
MTG: FA projects; Two Squirrels; Crystal Method; Secret Seventh; Terry; Rogue (Bat Buttress)
LTG: 8A (possibly something like Vogue at Bat Buttress)

M:
T: Board session. Not particularly long and didn't feel very useful.
W:
T
F
S: Went for a wander around St Ives. Altar circuit looks nice for a lantern session.
S: Sigsworth Crags. Grim conditions so couldn't pull onto the projects but did a new traverse at 6C or so with Clarkey

[nai]

well I made a mess of that, bear with me.....

[nai]

Lets have a few good frosts and sort it out...

Frost you say?  coming home from Burbage at midday.  On the plus side I did see a couple of hundred geese leaving the building

 

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[shark]

11.0 - 11.1

Half term

M. Back above 11stone after weekend excesses. :-( Up with Tommy to Malham so he could try Raindogs. Steve came along. Not bothered about Oak and even forgot camera. Met Paul and Keith there. Forecast to be cloudy all day but blue sky and dazzling. Short window with clocks going back of Oak in shade for 2/3 hours only. Cons x 3. Put on a brand new pair of Whites. First go on Oak foot slippage. Shaky second go but got fumble horn. Went for a walk round Cove while Steve belayed Tommy. Third go fudged through to horn. Distracting kids shouting at each other by Beck so power screamed way onwards to drown them out. Only just held sloper. Got three moves into top traverse before failure. Good to get back up to top traverse (last time was 9th Oct). Tips hurt. Not enough light for a decent rest for another proper go but did it in sections
T.
W.
T.11.0 Filthy weather. The Beck was a torrent but the Oak was dry. If further proof was needed that it was grim weather - Teaboy was there. 4 x Consenting. Really felt the flow on last go. First RP got to top traverse but fingers greased off a gaston (just about as I was coming off anyway) 2 further abortive RPs with lowish foot slippages. Then a good redpoint but didnt quite get fingers in well enough to hold on in undercut at start of upper traverse Went for a walk Last decent redpoint foot slipped off setting up for throw. Another redpoint but no go. Last tie on did some links on upper section in failing light. Tommy did well on Raindogs despite the traffic. Linked from undercutby second bolt to top on top rope. Few times people offred to belay me which was touching although I am 100% happy be belayed by Tommy. Got some Oak love back
F. Felt wiped - back sore
S.
S. Was informed Oak was soaked on saturday so drank night before. Misty on way up but a furnace when we got there (25 deg?) Oak had a few key holds wet but had dried back considerably since day before. Hung around a lot. Had a few not-very-good goes at links on upper section when sun went off it. Tommy got same good progress on Raindogs putting in a couple of redpoints despite conditions We were last to leave as usual

Heading back on weds when Oak should be dried out and cloudy conditions forecast. Been getting my thoughts together thinking how best to prepare / train for onsighting in Chulilla in January and the Oak in Feb/Mar

[Nibile]

STG - board projects.

Mon - board climbing. Climbed another project! It only took me four goes. After three years of training, that is. Incredible sensation feeling so solid in the previously precarious moves. This is the real thing. Snatch finisher x3; weights complex x1. Destroyed.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing. Little volume, high intensity. Fingery. 2 mins dumbbell complex, 15 power cleans (speed) x2. Tired.
Thu - board climbing. I didn't think I was going to make it after previous session. Fingers seemed tired but worked well. Tried isolation moves of the hardest projects on my board, some little progress but still very hard. I have to understand exactly if they are hard and not doable by me, or hard and doable, even though just once by accident. Tricky, don't want to waste my time on single stop-moves. Abs finisher, overhead carry, shoulder carry x2. Brutal.
Fri - rest.
Sat - board climbing. Managed to do the crux move of two projects for the first time in two years trying. There's no way I can do it on redpoint. Added one hold to make one of them less precarious but more physical, and took off one hold for the start to make it harder. 8a+/b. Dumbbell complex (speed), snatch high pulls x2. Brilliant session. Well promising for the projects.
Sun - board climbing. Took some time to find a footholds sequence for the project, really hard. Had one good go then a few ones with little power left in the guns. First two moves now are hard on their own. Dammit.

[SA Chris]

Been getting my thoughts together thinking how best to prepare / train for onsighting in Chulilla in January and something other than the Oak in Feb/Mar because it's going down on Wednesday. It will happen oh yes it will happen

Bit of PMA for you!

Good luck