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foot/ankle rehab? (Read 2061 times)

ghisino

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foot/ankle rehab?
October 26, 2015, 06:50:51 pm
Writing this on behalf of gf.

She had a "minor" talus fracture 1.5 years ago.

Even though the general recovery was successful, she still has issues with any kind of climbing requiring either a lot toe strength, or pushing the foot  beyond its conventions resting position (twisting it, or forcing a "downturn" shape). Finally she seems to be very sensitive to rock shoe choice, eg a comfy but soft and sloppy shoe will be as painful to climb with as a tight sized, extremely downturned one.

Painful areas: Back of the foot and inside face of the ankle. She describes it as a soft tissue pain.

Conventional physiotherapy seems unhelpful about this specific issue, probably because it is designed for ordinary walking/running tasks?

Any helpful input will be much appreciated...

lagerstarfish

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#1 Re: foot/ankle rehab?
October 26, 2015, 08:54:41 pm
I smashed my talus into lots of pieces 3 years ago

after the first 18 months I had made some big gains, but was disappointed with the amount of pain and lack of range of use - the last 18 months have seen more gains and I am optimistic that things will get better. I fully expect to continue to make gains for another few years

at 18 months there were some really painful parts of the foot/ankle as you describe - they have got better - in particular the  skin on the bottom of my foot took forever to get tough again

stuff that helped - all of this made it really hurt, sometimes for days, but it was worth - I managed not to make it worse

walking around the edge of a bouldering pad to get used to sideways twistyness
loads of hopping - at first in running shoes, later bare foot, eventually progressing to hopping on the ball of my foot
controlled jumping onto pads - I used the ladder on the kids' slide and worked my way up the rungs - I think impact helps with bone strengthening?
balancing on one foot without shoes - surprisingly hard on the weak foot
walking on rough/soft ground - start on flat grass in parks, progress to walking up to and down from the plantation
climbing definitely helps


adaptations..
wear (more) socks in climbing shoes
wear soft cheap trainers (Aldi and Lidl running shoes etc) for day to day wear- they squidge into the right shape for my mis-shaped heel
wear really soft shoes for approach walks - the flex in the front part of my foot helps to compensate for the limited side movement in the ankle - stiff shoes don't allow this
learn to land differently, if space allows I hit he floor with both feet and fall/roll sideways like a parachutist - with less space I plan for using my hands/arms to absorb some force
get used to the idea that after hammering the ankle/foot I will have to use co-codamol for a day or two

I'm sure I'll think of more stuff

TobyD

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#2 Re: foot/ankle rehab?
October 26, 2015, 11:51:11 pm
I snapped a 5th met a few years ago; the best rehab I did which made by far the best gains was hydrotherapy; you could get this on the NHS depending on area; but... all you need is a swimming pool with a quiet shallow end. Practice direction changes; jumping; toe walking; heel walking; hopping across the pool; running / sprint intervals on the spot and anything else specific you want in the water. Start deeper with introducing harder activities; then move shallower to make each one harder. It all looks a bit foolish, but works very well.

bendavison

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#3 Re: foot/ankle rehab?
October 27, 2015, 07:04:06 am
hydrotherapy

+1 to this. Though after 18 months your partner may 'too good' for this now, but Toby will know better than me on that kind of thing.

Hopping is pretty hard. Plyometric stuff using a lot of momentum at first should help strengthen it e.g. exaggerated skipping, focussing on height, but using the forward momentum to make it easier on the foot.

Thread hijack: has anyone got any tips for getting better at pulling with their toes. I'm not great at this on either foot, but particularly bad on my bad foot (broken heel ~15 months ago).

TobyD

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#4 Re: foot/ankle rehab?
October 27, 2015, 07:17:40 am

Thread hijack: has anyone got any tips for getting better at pulling with their toes. I'm not great at this on either foot, but particularly bad on my bad foot (broken heel ~15 months ago).

walk everywhere in really cheap flip flops? Not the time of year for that suggestion really...

SA Chris

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#5 Re: foot/ankle rehab?
October 27, 2015, 09:25:41 am
Practice your ballet plie? :)

 

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