[fried]

Crap week - 2nd virus this month has put paid to any training.

M - Woke up with with conjuctivitus, did a brief indoor session where I managed  the first half of my 6C+ project, the yoof I was climbing wirh assured me this was the hardest bit. Not feeling great.

T - Wake up with fever/ sore throat. Skip work.

W-Fr - Can't afford anymore days off work, so suffer through, losing my voice my mid-afternoon each day.

S - A bit better, drink a lot of red wine.
Su - Much better but resting as I'm off work tomorrow and the forecast looks good.

Put on 600g due to eating lots of couscous and merguez. Illness makes me hungry.

[Muenchener]

Crap week - 2nd virus this month has put paid to any training.

Bummer. Get well soon.

[Muenchener]

STG: redpoint 7a #4
MTG (2015): redpoint 7a+
LTG (2016/2017): Redpoint 7b's with dance-themed names (Sautanz, Brachiation)

M:
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. An hour light bouldering & spotting M jnr followed by circuit intervals. Feeling weak & not fully recovered from Sunday, so probably good training value
W:   Stair climbing @ work, 4x40 stories. Start of the winter general fitness/snowboard legs programme. Felt good afterwards, though not during.
T: Beastmaker. Light session; didn't want to work too hard because climbing at the weekend. Bodyweight benchmarks show some substantial improvements since January, e.g. 27% longer max duration hang on a medium campus rung half crimp.
F:
S: Ötztal. So: you feel a lack of power endurance on your 7a/+ proj. You train diligently for three weeks, and the next time you get out, after a couple of abortive attempts on a potential 7b project - utterly blank granite slab, no way - you proceed to fall off not one but two 6a+'s   

S: Ötztal. Better. Temperature ok, 10 degrees, but a lot of autumnal moisture in the air so too damp to try anything hard, so spent a pleasant day onsighting up to 6b+. And didn't fall off a single 6a+ all day. 

[Ti_pin_man]

 

As usual, a little random, a little inconsistent, not a regular poster but happy to say even though my girls are nearly a year and half old I'm still managing to hit F7a.  It might be low compared to others but it's still a big deal to me.  :-). I can also say that my underlying grade is rising, rather like reggie Perrins damp, which is nice.  Now quiet in the back please, don't wake my babies. 

[nai]

STG - Roof Warrior, Body Machine
MTG - bit of bouldering and start to develop killer endurance over winter
LTG Put killer endurance to good use next Spring

M - mulled, pondered, wondered.  Weighed clothes to see how much I could save for RP attempts, like you do.

T - RW7 - 3 redpoints making the move left in the roof each time, tried a new roof sequence 1st go but reverted to original for 2nd, unsure which to use on 3rd, hit the hold but was done in so did neither.

Totally solid on the lower wall to the roof now and on the upper wall from the kneebar.  Would have really pleased with this session if it was June and no danger of it getting wet anytime soon.

w - Watched the radar, checked accumulated rainfall & fretted all morning. Only 10mm, should be ok.... Partner for Fri pulled out in the afternoon. Spent the evening typing out my beta in so I'd have it for next year....

Th - Attempts to find a partner got a bit desperate until at 17:30 a text arrived out of the blue and a plan was hatched. Phew.

F - RW8 - woke up raring to go then realised it was 2:55. Woke again at 4:15 and when the alarm eventually sounded at 6:45 I didn't feel quite so chipper. Nearly fell off the warm up then messed around and struggled putting the clips in RW, but did decide on my new sequence for the roof. 

RP1 a few little mistakes up to roof & failed to make the lock left, this was a highpoint last Wednesday that encouraged me to continue trying the route, but felt poor today.

Belayed feeling drained, nervous and jittery, believing I had no chance.

Started to prep for RP2 and suddenly felt ok, good even. Sang my way up the lower wall, didn't quite get the hold right on the lock left but fought through to the kneebar, huffing and puffing. Struggled to rest and had to go before I felt totally ready.  Smooth to and from the letterbox but started to tire at the final clip, was bizarrely disappointed to be so pumped at this point but the time repeating and refining the link paid off and I just made it to the chains.

S - rest

S - Body Machine, 3 working goes.  Some progress and a good link from the break but a bit tweaky for the dodgy finger.  Might not bother with this until next year when I'll hopefully be fitter with fingers fixed.

[T_B]

Good work nai

[nik at work]

What a fucking week! Jeeesus...

STG/MTG/LTG - wibble...

M - BM session, ok.
T - BM session, ok. Then go to work after kids in bed until 10:00pm to try and get a project finished by the end of the week.
W - Nothing. Come home from work, eldest son is not a happy camper, further investigation reveals that a couple of older boys are at the early stages of bullying him, which today involved them dragging him by his feet across the playfield leaving grazes and scratches down his back. Me and wife are very not happy. Later while he's having a pre-bed shower we notice his legs have a fair few bruises on them, but he has no idea where the bruises came from. Also there is a bit of a red spotty rash type thing all other his body. He seems in fine fettle but we decide a trip to the gp's is in order tomorrow (after going in to see the head). Then once the boys are in bed back to work until 11:00pm project finished.
T - go and see head and discuss bullying, he takes us seriously and says he'll take action. I think the bullying is at a very early and low level stage so hopefully this will have it nipped in the bud. The the boy goes to the gp's with the wife, cue immediate referral to the childrens ward at the hospital, very rapid blood testing and a general atmosphere of "this could be serious". Blood results reveal a platelet level of 6000 (normal is 150000 to 450000!). The double edged sword of the internet reveals words like "leukaemia" and pretty much everything else in the world disappears... After a horrible afternoon it's decided that it's a post viral thing and should sort itself out.And to the boys relief he's allowed home. Start breathing again. But what about travelling to Spain in a week, errr....
F - Nothing, really fed up and gutted that the boy probably isn't going to Spain with me
S - At work, fit seahorse sculpture for client and they love it. Made up with this but still gutted about the boy.
S - Bump into youngest sons nursery key worker from his first nursery, who has become a friend and is lovely. Ask her how she's doing, "not great, I've got a brain tumour, they've given me a couple of months to live". This is fucking shit . Also told eldest that there is a good chance that he won't be able to come to Spain, we're going to wait until the result of his blood test on Thursday before making a final decision. He takes it really well (far better than I would), in fact his first question is "but daddy can still go right?".

Sorry about the non-training related info but this week has been epic, some good stuff, too many hours at work, and some truly horrible moments. I need a holiday

 

[rodma]

Sorry week for me this week. Turns out wee man wasn't just out of sorts from his mmr jab, he also had hand foot and mouth, which as it turns out I've never had before. Wee ones don't always get marks on hands and feet, so we just thought he was bad from the jab and off his food.


Mon, Tues: raging fever, off work.
Wed-Fri: back at work due to deadlines, still have fever, can't sleep from mouth pain and can't really easy for the same reason.
Sat-sun: fever gone, ulcers disappearing, roll on next week

[tomtom]

Great work Nai - should be in YYFY!

Nick and Rodma - that's some rubbish news/events

[shurt]

Sorry to hear about some grim stuff.  Sounds like an all round bad week Nik. My little chap had hand, foot and mouth and he was the worst I've ever seen him with anything. I didn't get it though so you must feel terrible...

I did one thing of note tonight - 2 sets on the fingerboard - felt beasted but in a good way. Hopefully I can carry the physche into next week.


 

[Sasquatch]

Nai   

Nik and Rodma, my sympathies.  Kids illness stuff is always hard and gutting.

M - First trip out bouldering California-went to truckee areas.  Fantastic day - WU on a v0, v0, v4 and v6, then flashed a v10, then did a v8 after a few goes, then flashed a v8, did another v8 first go that shared the same start, then flashed a v7, did another v7, v6, and v4. 
T - nothing
W - Quick family jaunt to truckee, managed to get on a couple of problems. warmed up on a v2,v1,v1, then did a v7, flashed another v8, then worked a v11.  managed all the moves quickly, but the slopers were in the sun and I kept greasy off the crux moves when trying from the start.  only had about 45minutes.
T - san fransisco for the day. fun w family
F - Pack and drive to condo in South Lake Tahoe
S - Kick around South Lake w Family, Daughter didn't sleep a wink, so she had a rough day with seizures.  Managed to sneak out for about an hour just before sunset.  Warmed up on a v5 and v6, then did a v8 first go, then a v10 in a few goes, then a v11, then a v9 first go.  The harder ones all shared different parts, so It wasn't like doing all different problems, but still a magnificent 60 minute session. 
S - Notta, short hike/walk w family.

[JackAus]

That's a quality week there Todd!


STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done!

M: Frontline. Boiling hot, humid as fuck and only there for an hour. Just tried to lap some old V6's that I'd done 2 years ago. Couldn't fucking do them. On the way out, had one go at a V7 thats usually a warm up for me and greased off it. Horrible. Worst conditions I've ever had here.
T: St Leonards. Usual Tuesday. Ticked pretty much every new problem and started making new ones straight away. Campus and shoulder work after.
W: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Lapped problems then made some up. Couldn't do any of them..... Hard. Usual campussing and shoulder work.
F: St Leonards. Just for an hour. Just laps and abit of campussing, small fingerboard session and shoulder work.
S: The Fear Factory. Went for the big one: 2000 Light Years From Home. Cleaned it on rope and did a couple of moves, then fucked off the rope and did it first go. Felt fine so did 10 laps on it in total so we could film it. Video coming soon... Since found out 2 more guys have done it a while ago so this is the 5th ascent in 15 years. 7/10 on the list now done. Only ones left are 2 V5s and a V7, none of which I have tried at all yet or cleaned.
This has been one of the stand out lines since I first bouldered in Syd 2 years ago and I am so pleased to do it...
S: St Leonards. Small session. Ticked off more of the harder new problems and continued working my made up problems. Campus and fingerboard after.

2000 Light Years From Home
It's the first line that you see when you get to the crag and it juts out into the trees. The pad actually overhangs the landing area which has jagged rocky drops about another 8m down to the track. So you'd definitely be going to hospital if you fell...

[Grubes]

What a fucking week! Jeeesus...

his first question is "but daddy can still go right?".

this week has been epic, some good stuff. I need a holiday

At least in 7 days we will be in northern Spain hopefully in the sun, Talking crap, trying to climb and scaring locals and as rick said if it's one or the other we will take Dylan.

If all else fails Simon will get hammered and we can just laugh at him

[iain]

Congrats nai!

Rodma and Nik 

[T_B]

84Kg

M - Foundry lunch. F/Board. 1 x front 3 27Kg, 3 x front 3 30Kg, 4 x half crimp 20Kg, 4 x middle 2 7Kg.
T - School lunch. Circuits with minimum rest. Sections of purple and pink.
W -
T - P.M. Tor. Dark and windy. 4 Rps on PUTPBand but never even got split crimp. 1 RP on Staminahumps. Lots of sitting in car resting wondering what the f*ck I was doing there. Went home and confessed sins to unimpressed wife.
F - Foundry lunch. F/Board. 4 x front 3 30Kg, 4 x half crimp 25Kg, 4 x middle 2 8Kg. 15 pull ups.
S -
S - 9.30am at Burbage. Was meant to go to Stanage but didn't fancy the pressure of trying hard projects. Did the usual stuff around Remergence, then went to look at Striker, 7C+ (had had a bit of a sess on this in the spring). In the wind, no sun and very cold. Blah blah etc got the method and stuck it - great problem though of course easier if you're tall. Went to have a go at Zaff's but someone on it, so dithered around and decided just to solo a few routes - nice.

Dunno why the grit hasn't been called, it was mint Sunday a.m. in the shade. No more lime for me for a while. 1 more week of max hangs (have made decent gains)...

[shurt]

Sorry to hear about some grim stuff.  Sounds like an all round bad week Nik. My little chap had hand, foot and mouth and he was the worst I've ever seen him with anything. I didn't get it though so you must feel terrible...

I did one thing of note tonight - 2 sets on the fingerboard - felt beasted but in a good way. Hopefully I can carry the physche into next week.

BTW I don't think Nik and Rodma are the same person just lazily mixing sympathies into the same sentence...

[Wood FT]

...and I just made it to the chains.

Well done Nai, get in!

[petejh]

Brilliant Nai!    Just reward.
Nik that's horrible.

STG: Re-hab bicep tendon. Slab climbing. Soloing. Build chain resiliance for burly DT training further down the line.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (this winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.2 years)

M. - S. Nothing.

[Nibile]

Mon - board climbing. Wanted to climb the project, but wasn't feeling sparky. Warmed up and felt a niggle in my right wrist, so I decided not to try the project and did instead two laps of one foot bouldering with 8 kg on. Writing it down now it seems a bit contradictory but on the moment it made somehow sense. Brilliant, total domination despite adding 1 kg. Sacked the finisher because I was already tired and hungry. Only two problems but high intensity.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing. Finally managed the project, fourth go of the day, requiring a level of perfectionism that many could define pathological. Weights complex, overhead walk x2. Heavy session.
Thu - board climbing. Fingers very tired from previous day, tried another long standing project with good links but powered out soon. PE: 2 test problems with 5" pauses on every move. Abs complex, just one set, absolutely brutal.
Fri - barbell complex x1, hill sprint x6. Easy. Or not?
Sat - FOA! Max foa's on 19 mm edge; contrast training on pull up bar. I can feel exactly where my lats insertions are. Anatomy lesson. Mega.
Sun- barbecue and motorbike! Still achey.

Good week with a success and good progress on Foa's. Somehow it seems that staying frontal is less stressful on my shoulders and elbows! Nearly there. Must work a bit more on the top 1/3rd. Front lever pulls are now a warm up, who would have thought it.

[Nibile]

Nik,
Be strong. All the best.

[Luke Owens]

Nai and Sasquatch - Awesome! Strong effort both!

Nik and Rodma - Sorry to hear that, all the best!

M: Rest

T: Lamp light session at Hope Mnt. Warmed up on easy problems and managed the Roof Slope Traverse in about 5 goes, real sandbag at 6C. Proper anti-style tick for me though; you have to keep good tension in a horizontal position while slapping across slopers on the lip of the roof, both of which I'm useless at.

W: Rest

T: Lunch - Antags and stretching in the gym

Eve: Local wall, repeated some problems on the 20 degree board then set a pocket problem with my mate, big move to a middle 2 pocket came close a few times then hit it wrong and shock loaded my ring finger, sent a massive electric shock feeling down my forearm... lots of pain, iced straight away and went home and sulked.

Genuinely thought it was the end of the world, as I was psyched for my Little Orme project and bouldering on steep boards was going well. Seems like a Flexor Unit Strain.

S: Iced forearm all day

S: Wanted to get out on the slate on slabs to see if my forearm was OK. Rained when we got there so bailed to the Orme. Not the best place to climb when injured. Warmed up onsighting a 6b fearing the worst for my arm but it was completely pain free! Really happy; then did a 6c+ 2nd go. Injury seems to be fine considering it was only a couple of days ago but I can't use middle 2 but I'm just thankful I can climb!

Going to switch to some endurance training this week, don't want to make it worse by bouldering.

[filz]

Nik, Roadma sorry to hear that. All my best wishes!

STG: climb something from my ticklist

Mon - isometric weight training, bodyweight, ab-wheel
Tue - board session: tried a couple of problems
Wed - Fri: rest
Sat and Sun: went to Sasso to try shelter (font 7a+). Fell 3 times on the last throw... going too high in the third good attempt 

[galpinos]

Sorry week for me this week. Turns out wee man wasn't just out of sorts from his mmr jab, he also had hand foot and mouth, which as it turns out I've never had before. Wee ones don't always get marks on hands and feet, so we just thought he was bad from the jab and off his food.


Mon, Tues: raging fever, off work.
Wed-Fri: back at work due to deadlines, still have fever, can't sleep from mouth pain and can't really easy for the same reason.
Sat-sun: fever gone, ulcers disappearing, roll on next week

Rodma, I've had hand, foot and mouth this week from my daughter for the sceond time in a year. She dealt with it far better than me! The second time you get it is less bad than the first, my GP had me at A&E last time.

[Nibile]

Contrast training.

Last set of the session. Exhausting.

[kelvin]

What a fucking week! Jeeesus...

his first question is "but daddy can still go right?".

this week has been epic, some good stuff. I need a holiday

At least in 7 days we will be in northern Spain hopefully in the sun, Talking crap, trying to climb and scaring locals and as rick said if it's one or the other we will take Dylan.

If all else fails Simon will get hammered and we can just laugh at him

Sounds a desperate week for some -- kids can be the biggest worry in the world at times. Stick with it people.

I have no idea who Simon is but I'm looking forwards to laughing at him too. I managed to fall down a bank at 5am on Saturday, trousers round ankles after drinking myself to obliteration at the Coll De Nargo climbing festival. I was happily representing the UK in a demure fashion until I was sandbagged by a Maxpax cup full to the brim of whisky for a euro... and I wonder why I cant climb.