[36chambers]

I'm back, what did I miss?

...

I'd be interested to know what my climbing partners make of all that waffle.

Help the aged: end of the day, probably tried it 6 times, doesn't count. You'll breeze it when fresh.
Brass monkeys: tried a handful of times, did all the moves but the last one. With beta and more determination, no reason why you wouldn't do it in a session or two.
HIYH: greasy connies, very knacky. Go back when conditions improve and get the knack.

I don't consider any of these "failures". On a bad day (conditions/knackered/skin/mood/beta/whatever) I can easily drop my grade 2 or 3 grades. I have no doubt you'd send those on a good day. However, I suppose this is all besides the point.

I agree with your three weak points. Your climbing style is typically doing everything statically, which isn't bad, but it means you miss out on all the fun dynamic/powerful/cutting loose moves and the gains that come with them. Climb like you're Jan Hojer for a while, that should sort you out .

Luckily for you, like SA Chris said, training core is easy with low risk involved. There's no reason why you shouldn't be doing Ab ripper twice a week.
 
Otherwise, you should definitely start projecting hard stuff, you'll be surprised with how hard you can actually pull. Excellent, hard, workable, roof problems to throw yourself at include:
- Jason's Roof
- Red Baron Roof
- Stu's Roof

We should have a session on the 50 board sometime soon to properly size you up, and talk about specific training for both of us

[Will Hunt]

Otherwise, you should definitely start projecting hard stuff, you'll be surprised with how hard you can actually pull. Excellent, hard, workable, roof problems to throw yourself at include:
- Jason's Roof
- Red Baron Roof
- Stu's Roof

Jason's Roof is a bit of a slog to be considered workable. I'll traipse up there with you and have a go but I know I won't get up it. Hard 7C+ and the anti-style. I may as well try Voyager sit! But hopefully playing on it will be good training.

Red Baron - Yes that would be ideal since its a 7 minute drive from door to Glen! I hear with the correct beta it is 7C+ so may go.

Stu's - I suppose I should do the left hand version first but that felt nails last time! Will give it a go.

[tomtom]

Jess' ?

[Will Hunt]

You have the skill and finger strength but lack the raw power

So this "raw power" then. I take it that is not the bit that allows you to hold the hold (finger strength), but the bit that allows you to pull up and through the hold? i.e. pulling 'through' crimps, compression moves, anything feet-off etc. Has anyone any suggestions about what exercises I might do to address this?

I'm not sure how much use my board will be for this as its covered in crimps and there aren't many big holds on it. I can set some long moves on the "warm up jugs" if that will help. Also have access to a pull up bar at home and the work gym, which has a fancy thing that allows you to do assisted (one armers) or weighted (pull ups). Any thoughts?

[Wood FT]

You have the skill and finger strength but lack the raw power

So this "raw power" then.

I'm not sure how much use my board will be for this as its covered in crimps and there aren't many big holds on it. I can set some long moves on the "warm up jugs" if that will help.

You should be able to train 'Raw Power tm' on your board, just set two undercuts to a crimp with high feet. POWER

[SA Chris]

For sure. Or up to two crimps then bust out big move to reach two higher ones. Then repeat.

[Footwork]

You have the skill and finger strength but lack the raw power

So this "raw power" then. I take it that is not the bit that allows you to hold the hold (finger strength), but the bit that allows you to pull up and through the hold? i.e. pulling 'through' crimps, compression moves, anything feet-off etc. Has anyone any suggestions about what exercises I might do to address this?

I'm not sure how much use my board will be for this as its covered in crimps and there aren't many big holds on it. I can set some long moves on the "warm up jugs" if that will help. Also have access to a pull up bar at home and the work gym, which has a fancy thing that allows you to do assisted (one armers) or weighted (pull ups). Any thoughts?

Just watch the first 6 minutes of this. Get psyched. Try harder. Be more like Jerry

[Nibile]

I've always wondered who are the guys bouldering on The Wave when Jerry gets in. 

[nai]

The rock climbers training manual suggests "limit bouldering" for the power phase. Basically set some two move problems that you can't do and work them for a month until you can. I found this really effective, more so than campusing, definitely an exercise I'll use again.

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[dave]

Travs is one of them.

I've always wondered who are the guys bouldering on The Wave when Jerry gets in. 

2:25 short haired girl at desk - can't remember her name but it'll come to me, but was always on the front desk at the Foundry when I started going in 1997.

2:33 the guy standing is Travs, of this parish, isn't it?

The fistbump guy in the snazzy sweater for some reason I thought was Malc Taylor, based on little more than guesswork, bearing in mind I don't know what Malc Taylor does or did look like.

[webbo]

Rumour has it he now works for MI5 or MI6 so you won't get to find out what he does or looks like.

[dave]

Not convinced, there's clearly no floating black rectangle covering his eyes.

[tomtom]

Not convinced, there's clearly no floating black rectangle covering his eyes.

Didn't think it was that type of film

[andy popp]

Fist bump guy is Geordie/Viking legend Stevie Coates.

Shirtless guy standing next to the Wave is Travs though. Jon Barton clinging on upside down?

[dave]

Should have guessed it was a geordie from the jumper.

[the_dom]

Realised that I'd forgotten to post this week - not that motivation is particularly high, but it is 40-odd days to Cresciano..

STG: Strong for Cresciano
MTG: Some crushing in Cresciano
LTG: We'll see..

Mon: Knee is feeling a little tender, so no climbing. Campusing and fingerboard instead.
Tues: Weights at lunch (bench press, military press, bent over row etc) and really fun surf in the evening.
Wed: Hangboard - Maisch protocol
Thurs: Hike in the forest.
Fri: Hangboard - Maisch protocol in the AM, lunchtime weights - heavy session. 10 x 2 x 150kg deadlift, and bench presses.
Sat: Rest day, as a result of heavy friday, a slight hangover and an enforced, wine-farm-birthday and RWC-related hair of the dog mission.
Sun: Indoor bouldering - actually, quite a good day. Felt strong. Followed up with an awful weighted encores session.

Anyone going to be in Cresciano around the 13th to 19th of December?