Luke got Bat Route and Moose got Zoolook.
W. Took afternoon off and went soloing in the Pass. Rib Route then Rib & Slab on Craig Ddu, Cracked Wall on Drwys y Gwynt (stunning rock) then a VS on the upper tier of Drwys y Gwynt, then on to the Grochan and up Nea. Bit of a wake-up call on the airy headwall finish of Nea when two flat polished holds felt too greasy to safely pull outwards on and I had to downclim a little and rethink the move. Craig Ddu and Drwys y Gwynt routes were superb fun, Nea I'll probably never solo again - didn't feel like an enjoyable climb, too polished and thrutchy in the corner and too many loose blocks on the finish.
84.1KgM - T - 10 sec max hangs, 3 mins rest. 3 x front 3 25Kg, 1 x front 3 27Kg. 4 x half crimp with 20Kg, 4 x middle two 5Kg. 4 circuits as per 7 Oct but with 2 mins rest.W - T - Plantation, warmed up then started raining so bailed to Tor. 1 go at Staminahumps getting to r-hand crimp. Two goes at PUTPBand, 1st go missed split crimp as too dark, next go matched into hold by split crimp and fell getting foot up.F - 10 sec max hangs, 3 mins rest. 1 x front 3 25Kg, 3 x front 3 30Kg. 4 x half crimp 20Kg, 4 x middle two 5Kg. 15 pull ups.S - S - Need to get another lamp if I'm to carry on the PUTPBand campaign as didn't have enough light on Thurs to have a proper session. The two goes I had I didn't really have any pump at end of PBand going into PUTP. Still loving the max hangs, but need lots of rest. I think I've been missing the point FBing in the past i.e. not been having to try hard enough with repeaters.
M-Travel 15 hr to work conference. Dump bags at hotel, get uber to local crag. Warm up as it's getting dark on a v0,v2,v6, then onto only testpiece I can do solo with one pad in the dark... v9 in two goes, then onto the v11 sit. after about 45 minutes I manage to send it as well. Well chuffed as it's only the second time i've done a v11 in a session. Pack up and head back to hotel after about 90 minutes of climb time. Interesting bus ride back to hotel with pad...
On trip, so this'll be short. The next two should be really good M-Travel 15 hr to work conference. Dump bags at hotel, get uber to local crag. Warm up as it's getting dark on a v0,v2,v6, then onto only testpiece I can do solo with one pad in the dark... v9 in two goes, then onto the v11 sit. after about 45 minutes I manage to send it as well. Well chuffed as it's only the second time i've done a v11 in a session. Pack up and head back to hotel after about 90 minutes of climb time. Interesting bus ride back to hotel with pad...T-Work ConferenceW-Work ConferenceT-Work ConferenceF- Work Conference and travel to CaliforniaS- Nothing - Hang out with familyS-Six flags - loads of roller coasters
I feel if Shark did the Oak, it could be the shot in arm I need to get going again - no pressure. Blaming other people for my failings is not my normal bag btw but I'm clutching at straws here.