[fried]

A back to some sort of training week. The temperature has dropped massively and I can start to seriously plan my indoor sessions while hoping for a good few more sessions outside. I'm aiming for 3 sessions per week, hopefully one being outside, the others being an easy indoor session with a lot of volume, and a harder session trying a select few difficult probs.

STG - Keep a bit of structure in my indoor sessions.

M -
T - Indoor easy session, nice, did a lot of very quick 6A type indoor probs, climbed a lot of easier stuff about 3h. Good fun.
W - Work
Th - Indoors, started on a 6A prow that's not my style just 'cos a couple of people I know at the wall were doing trying it. Moved onto a couple of 6C+/7A problems and was rewarded by getting off the ground on both of them which looked doubtful at the start. Fingers sore by the end.

F - Nothing
S - Alcohol-free Turkish wedding....
Su - Still got to bed late, weather looks damp and my shoulder feels twangy..decide against a session as I'll be at the wall tomorrow.

Weight 74.5kg ish

[rodma]

M: rest
T: wall session. Warm up on the campus board and film my poor attempts at one-arm-age. Feel pretty good on the campus board, but keep that part of the session short. Feel reasonably strong on the problems.
W: rest
T: another wall session featuring campusing and some problems. Fairly manage to beast myself, which is good, cos it's the last session of the week.
F: inlaws
S: ditto
S: ditto

Pretty good week all in, manage to get broken enough to warrant the rest days.
Still not getting enough sleep though, as soon as the wee man had recovered from illness, he had his mmr jab and had been a wreck for the last few days, needing cuddled to sleep multiple times through the night. Still, a clingy baby is quite cute

[tomtom]

A fair to middling week...

M: Crag X. Met up with Nai... failure on Zippys and Cherokee Cul-de-sac but felt like I had made some progress. Quite glad to be able to climb after Saturdays 3 peaks extravaganza..

T: Work

W: Work

Th: Brownstones.. not bad connies - and wanted to get Hanks Wall dispatched.. First time on it since May and I felt much much better.. several fingers around, over, under the final (important) hold but I couldnt hold it. A bit frustrating as the crimps eat skin - so I had to give up after serious attempt number 6 or 7 due to a very nearly split Right Tip. Interesting, as I always used to split the LH tip on that - so I'm doing something different... Usual flails on Dezertion - then managed to work out how to do the sit for Bloopers (for the taller gentleman) but didnt do the problem. Next time etc...

Fr:

Sa: Feeling strangely inspired by Andy_E's video of Harcles hill, hatched a plan with R-Man to head there on Sat afternoon.. good fun - eventially managed the 7A on the left (Monster something...) which had some horrible looking contorted lie down start - which amazingly felt really really good, and the rest of the problem climbed well. Failed on the 7A+ dyno where being tall appears not to help! Then went and tried a thumb sprag based project that R-Man had his eye on.. no cigar...

Su: Put plywood down on the toilet floor. Felt good with myself in a caveman type way. Ate last nights chinese takeaway for lunch. Felt hungry again soon after.

Weight has continued to drop... the scales touched 10stn 10lb for the first time ever earlier in the week.. consistently below 11 now...

[the_dom]

Mon: Bouldering and first attempt at campusing in a while. Have had better campus sessions.
Tues: Deadlifts and benchpresses; max hangs in the PM
Wed: Bouldering
Thurs: Run
Fri: Lunchtime max hangs hangboard session; short, tired evening campus session
Sat: Hike in the forest - aggravated something in my knee.
Sun: Had to bail on bouldering due to aggravated knee. Drank wine in the sun then did a quick hangboard session.

[mr chaz]

M.
T. Pretty bad session down the wall just light bouldering, feeling drained and exhausted from a hectic few days. Bit of rest required.
W.
T. Feeling better. Campus board for 30mins, couldn't quite manage 1 4 7 but close. 1 4 6 on small rungs, can't remember if I've done that before or not. Skin is being a problem, 2 split tips.
F.
S.
S. Decent session at the wall. Went round and did the competition circuit from the night before. Core workout and press-ups.

Not a terrible week, but other things have been taking my attention from climbing at the moment. Start date for work has been confirmed and I'm slowly coming to terms with the fact I may be moving to Wolverhampton in the very near future (I'm currently based in Redditch, ~30mins south of Birmingham). Had been thinking/hoping to be more Birmingham based and commute but I'm not sure about this now. Could be worse though, the office is not too far from a great bouldering wall and it would put me a lot closer to the Peak 

[Muenchener]

STG: redpoint 7a #4
MTG (2015): redpoint 7a+
LTG (2016/2017): Redpoint 7b's with dance-themed names (Sautanz, Brachiation)

*Still* continual snuffles, headache, general feeling of being on the verge of having a cold. Have been like this for weeks now. It's getting me down. Strength / anaerobic oriented training is ok, but it pretty much rules out any form of aerobic work, and I'm finding I miss being able to actually *move*. Weight starting to creep upwards.

Also: weather. Has been cold & wet over here for a couple of weeks, doesn't look like we're in for a repeat of last year's glorious indian summer. Not willing to give up and settle into a full winter indoor training programme just yet though: forecast for next weekend is cold but sunny, should get at least one more project ticked.

So on with the show.

M:
T:
W: Beastmaker max hangs, Steve Maisch protocol. Didn't match last week's best on half crimp; board felt greasy.
T:
F: Wall, Boulderwelt. An hour light bouldering & spotting M jnr followed by circuit intervals.
S: An hour mobility & core.
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Same as Friday. Four circuit sessions in two weeks, and already my ability to hang on & keep going when tired has improved substantially. Interesting.

[nai]

STG - Roof Warrior, Body Machine
MTG - bit of bouldering and start to develop killer endurance over winter
LTG Put killer endurance to good use next Spring

M - went to meet tomtom at X, didn't climb well and was mostly surly and snappy, sorry Tom 

t -rest

W - Roof Warrior round 5, was ready to give up on it for the year if today didn't go well. Bits of improved beta discovered but poor RP attempts until....  final attempt made it to the lock left in the roof, from there it's 2 more tricky moves to a jug from which you should make it to the kneebar.  Now have the top wall well wired from there.  Psyche restored.

t rest

F - 6.  Frustrating day cocking up the moves right under the roof every go, sorted the intricacies now.  Struggling to relink the roof, need to rethink try harder.  Good link from the hold after the lock left in the roof, through kneebar, to chains.  Means I've now linked from floor to falling at the lock left and from the move after the lock to the chains.  Core eve.

S quick board session all on undercuts, finished with bicep curls. Realised rain forecast for Wed and started to panic.

S was planning same as Sat but rest probably more beneficial, brought Wed session forward to Tue.

Up and down week, felt like a step back for every step forward but I guess I have to be pleased with the links I've done.  Feels like it's got to be this week now, can potentially do three sessions if required.  Squeaky bum time.

[shark]

Thanks fried

10.12-11.0

M. Eve. Fingerboard. Good session similar to but not quite as good as PB two weeks ago
T.
W. Noon. Foundry Campus board. Good session. Managed to Hold 1 and 4 and pull thru to 7 on right on gigantic rungs on right arm and also did 1-4-6 on small S7 rungs (not sure if I have managed this before) and laddered 135797 on S7 rungs and 135797531 on med rungs though didn't match 1
T. Eve. Burbage North. Intended to go Burbage South bur weather not looking good so headed to Remegence. Valley was deserted. Despite the intermittent drizzle Tommy and I had a good evening. Did a couple of variation on the Nose / Rib then tried Blind Date. Significantly stronger on this than when I tried this last year. Helped when I changed to a more downturned boot as white not good on the foothold on the lip. On one go managed to go for the slot and another felt better still but foot popped whilst setting up to lurch. Back on my to do list. Does anyone other than Dave "better than Megos" Parry do the top slab? - looks grim . Tommy managed the Rib but not Remegence
F.
S. Up with Steve Mac, Albert and Luke Dawson. No wind on crag and intermittent blinding sunshine. Several goes on Oak. Lots of foot slippage suggesting a tyre change is required. Generally good conditions but failed to grasp the horn three times. Felt jaded physically and mentally. Luke got Bat Route and Moose got Zoolook.
S. Scotched plans to bouldering - felt tired but  and weather looked iffy

Definitely off the pace on the Oak now. Been irritable and on a short fuse all week. Been trying to maintain peak performance for 6 weeks+ now - balancing top-up training and bouldering with enough rest before climbing days. Would rather stop going up to Malham and go bouldering instead except half term is approaching and Tommy wants to get back on Raindogs.

[nik at work]

STG - Margalef 8c, hmmm...

M - BM session
T - Evening at the wall, did the boulder league. Did all the problems but one of them took me 5 attempts! Outrageous!!
W - Nowt
T - BM session
F - Nowt
S - Outside in the afternoon, big breakthrough on steep trad project. I HELD THE CRUX SLAP (for about a second or two) Yay yay yay. Now I just need to keep hold of it... Frustratingly keep only getting front two on it, I think if I manage to hit it with front three I'll be able to hold it longer. Also did the top half and had a burn on a new eliminate line that Doug started trying. A nice afternoon out.
S - did some random one arm hangs and not one armers (Rodma protocol) while the rice was cooking, certainly not a sessions worth.

Not a bad week, two weeks until Margalef and I feel in OK shape but a bit off the pace climbing wise. Still very busy at work, hoping this will calm down by mid-week and let me focus on the important things in life...

[ashtond6]

M - rest
T - Poor indoor session, did the ridic soft touch 7b bridging route, then couldn't do all the moves on a '6c'
W - rest
T - Indoor bouldering, took me 5+ goes to do a V4 I flashed so I just opted to lap x4 problems for some PE
F - rest
S - worked out most of the moves on Mind of the Turbot 7b but had to leave early
S - got past all the crux moves 2nd RP, dropped it as I couldn't clip the ring bolt (3 attempts to clip) on massive jugs, 1-2 5a moves from the chains. Profanities ensued as I may not have time to go back this year and it would have been my hardest route 

*Forgot to add, still heavy but down 1kg to 86kg. Can't seem to shift it as I'm eating well!

[moose]

Luke got Bat Route and Moose got Zoolook.

One of these is significant.  The other was merely the lifting of a siege more fuck-witted than the one in Monty Python and the Holy Grail!

[Nibile]

Mon - board climbing. Isolation moves and short links. Very tired, lack of sleep. Very humid, 67%!!! Good links but very little volume. System PE, 2x1'15". Snatch complex: power clean, power press, overhead walk, shoulder walk, 30" each, x3. Brutal. Forearms with own force of gravity. Brilliant.
Tue - rest.
Wed - system crimp session. Very strong. Core tension at another level.
Thu - Aero Pow session, 10'x3. Mega fun. Weights complex, barbell walk x2. Strong session.
Fri - rest.
Sat - frontal one armers; snatch complex x2. This beast here absolutely brilliant.
Sun - board climbing. I am an idiot: spent this session and the four previous ones trying a project with a reach dependant stop move, cursing myself for setting it. When I finally resolved to change the hold, I checked my notes and found out I had been trying with the wrong hold. Turned out that the following moves are made harder by this original sequence. No success. Ab finisher x2. Big session.

[T_B]

84.1Kg

M -
T - 10 sec max hangs, 3 mins rest. 3 x front 3 25Kg, 1 x front 3 27Kg. 4 x half crimp with 20Kg, 4 x middle two 5Kg. 4 circuits as per 7 Oct but with 2 mins rest.
W -
T - Plantation, warmed up then started raining so bailed to Tor. 1 go at Staminahumps getting to r-hand crimp. Two goes at PUTPBand, 1st go missed split crimp as too dark, next go matched into hold by split crimp and fell getting foot up.
F - 10 sec max hangs, 3 mins rest. 1 x front 3 25Kg, 3 x front 3 30Kg. 4 x half crimp 20Kg, 4 x middle two 5Kg. 15 pull ups.
S -
S -

Need to get another lamp if I'm to carry on the PUTPBand campaign as didn't have enough light on Thurs to have a proper session. The two goes I had I didn't really have any pump at end of PBand going into PUTP. Still loving the max hangs, but need lots of rest. I think I've been missing the point FBing in the past i.e. not been having to try hard enough with repeaters.

[petejh]

STG: Re-hab bicep tendon. Slab climbing. Soloing. Build chain resiliance for burly DT training further down the line.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (this winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.2 years)


M. V.floss shoulder/bicep; curls 3x10 (7Kg); eccentric curls 3x10 (12Kg). Heat pack; core & mobility sesh.
T. V.floss shoulder/bicep; TRX sesh; Curls 3x10 (7Kg); mobility sesh; heat pack.
W. Took afternoon off and went soloing in the Pass. Rib Route then Rib & Slab on Craig Ddu, Cracked Wall on Drwys y Gwynt (stunning rock) then a VS on the upper tier of Drwys y Gwynt, then on to the Grochan and up Nea. Bit of a wake-up call on the airy headwall finish of Nea when two flat polished holds felt too greasy to safely pull outwards on and I had to downclim a little and rethink the move. Craig Ddu and Drwys y Gwynt routes were superb fun, Nea I'll probably never solo again - didn't feel like an enjoyable climb, too polished and thrutchy in the corner and too many loose blocks on the finish. Heat pack.
T. V.floss bicep/shoulder. Core and mobility sesh. Heat pack.
F. Drytooling try-out at the steep slabby crag I developed in Penmon - the perfect winter-climbing training wall for grade V - IX (Manod's the perfect training wall for grades IX - XII). Interested to see how bicep felt - in-balance stuff feels fine, burly stuff still feels miles away. Drilled a couple more TR anchors whilst there. Heat pack.
S. Course.
S. Course..

mental week.

[filz]

M: fb max hangs
T: strenght session on the board
W: light bodyweight session. Planks, dips, handstands, L-sits
T: power endurance: 2 problems x 6 reps with 60" rest
F: rest
S: bouldering with a friend. I climbed some warm up problems, then we created an eliminate resembling the hard move of a 7c in the Dolomites I started trying in summer. Then went to try Il Manfano another 7c. I've seen some small improvements, but still a long way to go.
S: rest

Overall a good week, though I'm tired from previous weeks sessions. The next weekend the weather here seems good, so I'l take 3-4 days rest and try to climb something.

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.

M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Usual Tuesday. Flashed pretty much every new problem and started making new ones straight away. Came up with a doozy but too hard to do today. Campus and shoulder work after.
W: St Leonards. Warmed up doing all yesterdays problems and then worked new made up thing. Took as bunch of attempts, it was hard... More campussing and shoulder work.
T: St Leonards. Rubbish boring climb and training session turned into a good core work out by messing around on gym balls for a couple hrs. Felt beasted after wards.
F: Rest.
S: Rest. Too many beers. Too hot.
S: Queens Park and St Leonards. Overcast and cooler. Hungover so a morning session on Paul's Roof V9 seems like a good idea. Warmed up on it. Getting to the same point every time. Fluked it on my 3rd attempt last time and nearly did it but slight dab of spotter, so dropped. Now can't get back to that high point. Sorted out what I need to do but it takes alot of skin. Watched go pro vid from when I got higher after I got home and found I just wasn't committing to a cut. Compression on crimps. In the photo, I have to cut and move my right heel to the horn closer to my body, I can then move right hand up to and undercut/side pull(high point). Repeated a committing V4 classic and then did a committing V5 next to it. Both problems are a bunch of moves on weird pockets followed by committing throw's to the top of the wall. Took me a bunch to balls up and actually hold it.
Late arvo, didn't feel like I moved enough so went to the gym. Lapped a bunch of problems then did some easy campussing for abit.

Paul's Roof this session.




The cut I need to commit too (and dab.... dammit.)




And post-dab high point where I dropped off. One hard move left.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Board mirror session a few harder problems than last week.
Wed. Turbo 1 hour.
Thu. Off work looking after poorly grandson. Board repeated a session from October 2013 did most things first or second go including problems that had taken several sessions to do.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Went to my mates new secret venue damp in places repeated stuff he'd done last week up 6c. Spent ages trying a new thing that I could do all the moves on but failed to link it. Sort of ground to halt after this, felt like I had a full body workout.
Sun. Sore. Board just lapping stuff felt very weary.

[Luke Owens]

M: Rest

T: Local wall for 2 hours. 1 hour on 20 degree board working on big moves and piches. 30 mins on 40 degree board just trying to keep feet on using good hand holds. 30 mins on roof problems, focusing on body tension.

W: Rest

T: Local wall for 2 hours. Full session on 20 degree board, again working on big moves and piches. Getting used to it a bit now. Had a quick few goes on the 40 degree board at the end of the session.

F: Rest

S: Little Orme - Couldn't find a partner so went to try my project on my own. Gave it a big clean and worked out some better beta for 2nd crux. Also bolted another project I'm mega psyched for, looks hard.

S: Rest

[36chambers]

STG: Take it easy, tidy up some local loose ends, iron out the niggles
MTG: 8A
LTG: 8B

M: Ab ripper x
T: Depot, my current "training" simply consists of climbing efficiently, not trying anything hard, and finishing way before I am knackered.
W: Forearm massages/physio exercises.
T: Antagonistic training: Turkish get-ups (I love these), rings push ups, HIIT and dead lifts. Also 6 x foot-on repeaters on the fingerboard to aid pulley recovery.
F: 1/4 of a pub crawl...
S: The girls went to the Women's Climbing Symposium in Sheffield, so the "lads" went to Burbage West/North. Ticked Breakfast, The Nose, and Mermaid which were all nice problems. Without planning it, I ended up at The Terrace at the end of the day. Sussed the moves quite quickly, but I was repeatedly just missing the slot on all my attempts. Eventually found a heel placement that properly worked, but my tips were shot and I was too tired to finish it off. Good problem and way easier than I was anticipating, unfortunately this means I'll have to come down to the peak again soon... 
S: Entertaining my girlfriend's parents.

A reasonable week considering the heavy work load. I've just realised that I only climbed twice which may explain why I'm currently feeling fresher than usual. I think I'm going to crank up the fitness side of things in the coming weeks and continue to take it easy on the climbing front. 
 

[tommytwotone]

LTG: Get back to where I was before fatherhood
VLTG: Font 7b

M: Depot after work - massive reset after BoB so plenty to go at. Highlight was working out a tricky purple slab problem most others were struggling on.
T: 5-a-side on lunch. Scored a goal, let in a comedy goalkeeping howler and got hit in the spuds full-whack off a volley. A mixed game.
W: Nowt
T: Gym on lunch revisiting the deadlift. Worked up to 100kg which I was surprised to still be able to do. Partially shifted 120kg but couldn't fully complete.
F: Cliff lamp session eve. Pretty psyched but just had no power - failed / struggling on easy stuff, shaking trying to pull.
S: Nowt. Took Una for an ice cream.
S: Nowt apart from a few hours in town walking round with Una in a carrier on my back, which is a surprisingly good workout!

[cheque]

STG- Extremes/ 7s on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.

MTG- 7b/+ in 2016

LTG- 8a

M- Rest aka nothing

Tu- Rest. Planned to go to the wall but couldn't be bothered- post-trip motivation loss in full effect.

W- Decide to get psyched for going to the wall. Made a plan (I never do this) so well up for it. Drove to the wall (Notts Depot) then had to drive home and back to get wallet. Then couldn't park close due to 2,800 attendees of funeral at nearby mosque. Get to the wall in a bad mood and had to rejoin due to their new computerised till system  . Finally got in and the place is heaving with punters who've never even seen a boulder and are all stronger than me. Took a deep breath and actually had a decent session- hit my target of all the red (third-hardest of six) problems, focussing on technique.

Th- Rest.

F- Rest. DOMS in glutes for some reason.

Sa- NW Peak moors walk/ solo mission. Fancied checking out new crags in this region I've barely ever climbed in after flying over on the way into Manc airport the other week. Walked up to Alderman (best outlook in the peak?), then Slade Rocks (don't bother) then Running Hill Pits (lots of cool stuff here- keen to return) only saw four walkers all day  . Got 12 routes in but backed off every extreme I tried. Just not bold enough to solo 5b alone in a deserted quarry 45 minutes from the car yet it would seem. A lovely day though.

Su- Rest.

Climbing well. Something (possibly the mileage and speed climbing at Horseshoe Hell, possibly doing nothing but trying hard on bolts all summer, probably both) has made me more confident and decisive in my climbing which is a good development that will lead to a good grit season.

Going to try and continue more focussed wall sessions this winter- ideally twice a week, just bouldering and set an achievable target for each session.

[kelvin]

W. Took afternoon off and went soloing in the Pass. Rib Route then Rib & Slab on Craig Ddu, Cracked Wall on Drwys y Gwynt (stunning rock) then a VS on the upper tier of Drwys y Gwynt, then on to the Grochan and up Nea. Bit of a wake-up call on the airy headwall finish of Nea when two flat polished holds felt too greasy to safely pull outwards on and I had to downclim a little and rethink the move. Craig Ddu and Drwys y Gwynt routes were superb fun, Nea I'll probably never solo again - didn't feel like an enjoyable climb, too polished and thrutchy in the corner and too many loose blocks on the finish.

Sounds brilliant! Not even managed any trad on those crags, on the ticklist tho. Lost count of the VDiff to VS routes in Wales I've down climbed whilst soloing, to have a word with myself. Always good to give the ego a reboot. I miss Wales.


Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

[Schnell]

Back in the club..
STG: keep on track to be injury free by Christmas, good progress on this in last month, get some sort of fitness for chulilla trip in nov.
MTG. all about short term at the moment.

M. nothing.
T. climbing works, worked some problems, tested finger recovery with v.light foot on hangs on campus rungs: positive results.
W.
T. short endurance session on circuit board
F.
Sat. bouldering burbage north. just pottering, nothing above 6C
Sun. gym in morning, followed by circuit board session in eve, feeling pretty good.

[the_dom]

84.1Kg

M -
T - 10 sec max hangs, 3 mins rest. 3 x front 3 25Kg, 1 x front 3 27Kg. 4 x half crimp with 20Kg, 4 x middle two 5Kg. 4 circuits as per 7 Oct but with 2 mins rest.
W -
T - Plantation, warmed up then started raining so bailed to Tor. 1 go at Staminahumps getting to r-hand crimp. Two goes at PUTPBand, 1st go missed split crimp as too dark, next go matched into hold by split crimp and fell getting foot up.
F - 10 sec max hangs, 3 mins rest. 1 x front 3 25Kg, 3 x front 3 30Kg. 4 x half crimp 20Kg, 4 x middle two 5Kg. 15 pull ups.
S -
S -

Need to get another lamp if I'm to carry on the PUTPBand campaign as didn't have enough light on Thurs to have a proper session. The two goes I had I didn't really have any pump at end of PBand going into PUTP. Still loving the max hangs, but need lots of rest. I think I've been missing the point FBing in the past i.e. not been having to try hard enough with repeaters.

T_B, out of interest, what size holds are you using for the max hangs?

[Hugh]

Mon: Circuits at TCA.

Tue: Max hangs (10s), 20mm +27kg

Wed: TCA, Woody Wednesday. Great session with a mate, did a nice new problem.

Thu: Swim.

Fri: Back to Snuff Mills again for another hit of esoteric delights. Pootled about then had another crack at Silent Roar. Frankly I'd thought this would go pretty quickly on top rope and then would just be a case of going for it properly; unfortunately the move to the sidepull jug is rather harder than expected and knackered myself working out the beta. Bit of an ego kicking (never a bad thing), but a fairly enjoyable day all in all, and it'll be properly satisfying when it goes.

Sat: 5km run
Sun: Max hangs (10s), 20mm +30kg, 16mm +20kg

Decent week. Getting a bit run down though, and feel like I'm going through the motions. Possibly time to mix things up a bit.