[tomtom]

Hope I've got the dates right this week....

M: Beastmaker - started working the back 2 (ish)

Tu: Tideswell Dale. Fancied something a bit different  - and went with the idea of getting "ET Bone Home" 7A+ done... no chance.. I boned and boned and boned with my LH, but couldnt get any higher. Had a play on R-Mans daft dyno thing (Skylarkin) and left feeling too tall and too weak

We:

Thu: CragX. After a yes no yes no yes no yes no - oh not if its not the Tor performance from Shark - I didnt end up meeting up with him at X. Never mind - he had important things to do at the Apple store I heard... Had a good but ultimately tickless session at X... Had Cherokee Lane in my sights having come close last time. Found an interesting way of keeping my body in on the first move (up to the intermediate high crimp) by using a heel on the usual foothold. Seemed to work well, but left me in a poorer position for the next move. But - was working the same left shoulder as ET-BH, so may have been weak from that. In between attempts at that, I spent some time working the moves on Zippys (which I had not overlapped) and managed all the moves in two overlapping sequences - ran out of beans on a rested attempt.

Fr: Quick beastmaker session at lunchtime - then off to the Dentist to have a wisdom tooth out.

Sedation is great. I love it. I know I was awake the whole time, but don't remember a thing.. Perfect for long haul flights - except having an IV line in your hand probably wouldnt go down well (save on the odd CIA flight). MrT had the right idea... Went home, fell asleep watching some crap netflix sci fi thing, woke up a couple of hours later and felt like someone had smashed my jaw hard with a hammer many times.. painkillers, blood spitting and bed.

Sa: bad night sleeping - up early. My tooth must have been quite a fight - as well as an aching jaw my neck felt like it had been wrenched to one side (think slept in an odd position pains but much worse). Managed a milkshake for breakfast. Mouth bleeding had slowed much - moved to soup later in the day...

Su: Getting fed up of soup now - but pain (neck and jaw) much better. One side of my chin now looks like David Coulthards chin - the other my normal svelte profile No climbing for me today... still feeling a bit ferked..

Well... the upside of tooth surgery is that I'm now below 11 stone again - but seem to been put on a fairly hefty dose of AB's as well - which along with after effects of being sedated leaves me feeling pretty trashed still.. see what happens next week...

[fried]

Hate dentists!

M- Nothing
T - Indoors, good session on overhanging walls, finished a couple of problems very quickly, might have been an easy set.
W -
Th - Planned a BM session in the evening, but didn't feel too great in the evening. Everybody in Paris seems to be sick, the missus is on antibiotics and the Metro is like a plague ship...
Fr - Woke up feeling crap, my voice had just about gone, saw a client, then took the afternoon off sick. Stayed in bed.

S - Planned to meet Kelvin at Sabots, if it was someone I knew I'd've cancelled. Figured I might as well sit in the sun and do a bit of spotting as lie in bed.

Met Kelvin and his mate at Sabots. Decided to go to Isatis since they'd not been there. Had a good old natter to Kelvin while pointing the yoof up some 6As that he made short work of. Felt a bit better with a bit of magic forest air. Did a blue, tried a couple of reds.

Went up to point the yoof at Angle du serac http://bleau.info/isatis/2355.html, which he ran up quickly. I had a couple of goes and found the start feasible, then got a bit higher. An hour of so later I was still fiddling with my sequence, but coudn't get the top-out.

We had a break. I wanted to look at an off-circuit 6A called Luna http://bleau.info/isatis/17702.html which was shit, the most difficult thing was trying not to dab the pads. I went and finally finished the Traverse du desert while the yoof made good progress on El poussah rallonge (despite having the sequence completely wrong).

I wasn't really feeling up to it, but I was bullied into going back for a last go on angle du serac. Some Germans were next door and gave me even more beta. Found I could just get the crack under the top, which motivated me to have another go. Then got it. First time I've ever power screamed on a top-out. Lots of cheers from people who'd spent the afternoon watching me fall off. YYFY missed 6B and got my first 6B+.

It wouldn't have been possible without the support/ harrassment as well as some hard truths that I needed to MTFU. Cheers guys. Fantastic day in good company that left me smiling all evening. I learnt a lot today.

Kelvin appears to be something of a lucky charm which bodes well for Nick in Magaluf.

Su - Woke up sick, voice gone. Staying in bed.

Weight 73.8kg

[dave]

Tomtom, don't bother with all the intermediate crimp bollocks on cherokee, instead concentrate on holding the LH backhand in the optimum position, little finger on the spike, fingers on sloper bit, thumb underneath, and getting feet set right, then with body position correct you just stand up big direct for the high flake.

[tomtom]

Tomtom, don't bother with all the intermediate crimp bollocks on cherokee, instead concentrate on holding the LH backhand in the optimum position, little finger on the spike, fingers on sloper bit, thumb underneath, and getting feet set right, then with body position correct you just stand up big direct for the high flake.

Hmm.. So bring lf up to same (ish) height as rf then launch?

With the LH is in a gaston position? (Mine is - thumb underneath , little finger on top) Your description sounds different..

[dave]

Theres a specific left foothold that works well, below the break level, rf in break, legs a bit frogged.

Lh is in gaston position yeah. Little finger on spike was always key for me.

[tomtom]

Theres a specific left foothold that works well, below the break level, rf in break, legs a bit frogged.

Lh is in gaston position yeah. Little finger on spike was always key for me.

Cool. I'm on the right lines then. My little finger does FA on that spike - but it works well with index spiked and little finger above it on top. Weird by works.

Anyway - it'll probably piss down this week and X season will be over :D

[Muenchener]

STG: redpoint 7a #4
MTG (2015): redpoint 7a+
LTG (2016/2017): Redpoint 7b's with dance-themed names (Sautanz, Brachiation)

M:
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Bouldering.
W: Wall, Boulderwelt. Circuits. Did all the moves first time on a 7b, but it was unrelenting small edges with no shakeouts, and couldn't link more than about a dozen of them at a time. Ideal training then.
T:
F:
S: Austrian sport climbing, Nassereith. Projecting, see below.
S: Attempted further Austrian sport climbing, Starkenbach. This looks v. promising, the climbing style looks rather like slate: steep slabs on small edges. Sadly, also like in Llanberis after the first warm up route it poured with rain. Drove home hoping for perhaps less rain and some dry rock on the north side of the Alps, maybe Kochel, but no. Ended up at the wall, with a focus on endurance mileage and upside down jug pulling, this being a major area of mental weakness for me. About a dozen routes up to 6b.

So, my new proj. It's 7a/+ and pretty much pure power endurance, twenty or so moves slightly overhanging on small holds. No individual move is desperate, but there's only one place I can shake out, on a jug just below halfway. I got a couple of decent redpoint burns in after working it, but both times burned out at bolt five of six. The second time I even tried breathing, which helped, but forgot to try Not Forgetting The Foot Beta.

It'll be about three weeks before I have another chance to head down Austria way, weather permitting, so apart from Not Forgetting The Foot Beta next time, what else can I do in to improve my chances? I'm thinking intervals on ~25 move slightly overhanging circuits? Feet-on campusing?

[kelvin]

First time I've ever power screamed on a top-out.

Su - Woke up sick, voice gone. Staying in bed.

Weight 73.8kg

I'd stay away from power screams in future mate.

It was great to see you stick that hold yesterday - well deserved indeed. Now the '6B+ in 2017' idea has been rubbished, what's the goal for when I'm back in April? We'll have a month of so to get that '7A by the time I'm 50' done...

Now back to Shark. What's the latest?




Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

[nai]

nice work, fried.

STG - Roof Warrior, Body Machine
MTG - bit of bouldering and start to develop killer endurance over winter
LTG Put killer endurance to good use next Spring

M - Foc, 20s rest, completed just

t rest

W - Roof Warrior 3.
worked crimp move below roof but fell off at this point from the ground x2, have an idea for something different to try though.
Linked the roof so now linked the three sections but couldn't link top wall from kneebar today, left arm pumping final moves, have an idea for this too. Hoping to be on redpoint next session (if there is one, weather might stop play)

Th -  battered

F - Tor, 1.5 goes up Body machine, boiling when the sun came around.  Basically got back to the point I was at after my first session at the start of June for the main bit. Few little things to iron out but again hope to be on RP next session, although the start still frustrates.  Hope to do the same as Indecent and finish the route first time I link the lower wall.
FoC, 15s rest, completed easily. Did another couple of reps ok then ran out of time.

S - In Newcastle for rugby, quite likely the only man in town to order a salad for lunch

S -  nowt

[rodma]

M: restington bear (that's paddington's lazy cousin)
T: dynamic campus: feel amazingly strong. Manage to one arm catch the wee rungs each am without any feelings of potential failure.
W: static campus and wall session. Like Tues feel really good
T/F: resting, since am going to the lakes at the weekend.
That campsite at Silverdale has the nicest toilets / showers ever
S: woody woodwell. Climb terribly. Can't manage not bad Dave, despite pathing it two years ago and today's plan was not bad nige. Try full griddle groove (manage the sort version ) but can't even pull on at the back. Siege whistler and whistler direct, both feel like they take way longer than they should. Feel proper rubbish. Wee man struggles to be calm, won't eat and just wants to sleep. Both forearms feel injured, my tips ache, I feel weak and lime I've messed up my warmup badly. Check my phone and realise we've been climbing for about 6 hours which means I'm just tired
Drive back home
S: wee man's first birthday with family, tasty food and cake. Still feel broken from the day before.

Weird week. Sometimes (most times ) I'm really good at travelling and just getting things done, but not this time, felt and climbed rant badly. Still, was strong while training and that's always a bonus

[tomtom]

Whistlers weird.. Took me ages to get at first - then got it first go showing some folks the beta - then shit down on it next time. Could be I'm just shit though!

[Nibile]

Great week!
Mon - 2 mins weights complex (speed), broad jumps x2. Hill sprints x6. Come the fuck on. speed is the key. Another level of difficulty in weights. 
Tue - rest.
Wed - bouldering. Went there, warmed up, fired the project first go. End of an era. Total time spent on the rock in the day, roughly three minutes. Perfectly played. Will replicate the Mon - Tue combo before going climbing. One day focused on light weights and speed, and one rest day seem to be the magic formula. We'll see.
Thu - board climbing. Magic session. Fired project first go. "What happened? It was over so fast." Stuck at it, moved on to another problem on which only last week I was barely doing the moves in isolation, climbed it third or fourth go. Amazing body control, like being another person. Resting is key.
Fri - frog jumps, 2 mins weights complex (speed), abs, overhead barbell carry, shoulder barbell carry. Really really tired, really hard.
Sat - board climbing. Repeated a few problems and tried a project.
Sun - board climbing. With a few friends, mega session, climbed new problems and tried old projects. Super fun. Paying attention to pre and intra session nutrition is absolutely crucial. Yay!

Most important aspects of training at the moment: focusing on speed when doing weights; concentrating on board projects; peri-workout nutrition.

[shark]

First time I've ever power screamed on a top-out.

Su - Woke up sick, voice gone. Staying in bed.

Weight 73.8kg

Now back to Shark. What's the latest?

Not been back since Monday. Decided in end I was run down and needed an easy week rather than to train hard. Back up today but a couple of lbs heavier

[Bonjoy]

Tu: Tideswell Dale. Fancied something a bit different  - and went with the idea of getting "ET Bone Home" 7A+ done... no chance.. I boned and boned and boned with my LH, but couldnt get any higher.

At 7a+ you have to use a very committing heel-toe which feels pretty nasty without a spotter.

[tommytwotone]

LTG: Font 7b


M: Great wall session then "finisher" of 50 x each of pressup, pullup, 20kg dumbell goblet squat, burpee. Pretty goosed after.
T: Woke up feeling crap, felt crapper as day went on. Left work after lunch.
W: Ill.
T: Ill.
F: Off work on holiday working on the house. Good progress including resealing bath and kitchen worktops.
S: Nowt much.
S: Up early with Una. Bunged her in the sling and went for a 1hr walk to kill some time. Took her for her first trip to Almscliff in the afternoon, which she thankfully absolutely loved.


Can't work out whether I was already teetering on the edge of illness at the start of the week and just tipped myself over by training on Mon but certainly felt really poor for days after.

[T_B]

84.4Kg

M -  School - lunch. Trying circuits - the usual getting pumped at 30 moves on Purple.
T - Foundry - lunch. Added 8Kg and did 2 x 6 x 5secs with 5 secs off front 3. Then did 2 x 10 sec max hangs with 8Kg on BM bottom rungs. Did some front 2 with no weight in BM pockets. Bit of a weird sess, trying to work out how to design a new F/board programme.
W -
T - P.M. Tor with Dave to try Pump up the Power 7C+ again. A few goes in tried the 'Bollinger' sequence (see vid on-line). Eventually got the gaston and after a foot faff go, tenuously stretched for the finishing flattie #psyched etc. Then had a few goes on P/band into the start.
F -
S - Sore left shoulder, unsure about planned Tor visit in the a.m.
S - To a.m. Shoulder felt OK. Links session. 2 goes getting to crimp on Staminahumps, 2 goes throwing for split crimp on Pump up the Powerband.

Major coup for me to do PUTP. Training wise, need to get a plan together, though nice at the mo to have no plan 

[Muenchener]

M: Great wall session

Bit late in the season for Cloggy surely?   

[cofe]

Tu: Tideswell Dale. Fancied something a bit different  - and went with the idea of getting "ET Bone Home" 7A+ done... no chance.. I boned and boned and boned with my LH, but couldnt get any higher.

At 7a+ you have to use a very committing heel-toe which feels pretty nasty without a spotter.

Start RH lower on flake, R heel (not heel toe) above your hand. This is key. Look at LF options, though being 7' 8" you can probably keep it quite low.

[tommytwotone]

M: Great wall session

Bit late in the season for Cloggy surely?   

Wouldn't that involve going to Wales? I really don't like getting rained on.

[fried]

...what's the goal for when I'm back in April?

Getting your sports fitness up some class problems! Hope you had a good day on Sunday, did the yoof get his 7A?

[36chambers]

STG: See a physio and sort out niggles
MTG: Ben's Groove assis, Jason's Roof, Zoo York
LTG: 8B

M: Rest after 3 days on
T: Big antagonistic session, mainly shoulders. Rings exercises and foam roller etc.
W: Gym ball core session, back foam roller massaging
T: Physio appointment (finally), for my shot elbows. The physio thinks it's ulnar nerve issues, basically their "firing" threshold is far too low from being abused from too much climbing. Hence why it's painful to fully lock off. So I've been given some nerve flossing exercises to do. This may explain why endless concentrics with relatively heavy weights didn't achieve anything other than make my forearms even more Popeye like. I hadn't even heard of the ulnar nerve before, so this is hopefully a step in the right direction.
F: Physio exercises     
S: Brandrith, to check out Heaven in your Hands. To paraphrase Dave Graham "What a sick rig! and the crew were all fired up", but connies weren't ideal and my tips didn't last too long. Looking forward to going back.
S: Ilkley, finally checked out Rocky Valley, beautiful place, but I wasn't too inspired by the bouldering.

I usually climb outdoors 4 days a week typically trying to tick "hard" problems. But I think I may take it down a notch for a while to give myself chance to make progress with my elbows and finger. Hopefully I'll be back in full swing in time for winter.
 

[filz]

STG: keep training and avoid injuries, improve power endurance
MTG: Consolidate 7a, climb a couple of 7b+
LTG: 7c

No climbing on rock this week. Only training.

Mon - BM Max hangs. Heard a scary noise and pain in my right forearm hanging on back 2. I continued the session training other prehensions without problems.
Tue - Forearm was still aching, so I did a lot of stretching and rest.
Wed - Quick workout during lunch break with some bodyweight exercises "finishers" style: push ups, one legged squat, handstands, L-sits. In the evening I did a second workout with some isometric weight training, ring exercises (rows and skin the cat), bridges
Thu - Power endurance session on board: 2 boulders (14 moves) x 6 reps each with 90" rests between reps. Really tired from wednesday double workout.
Fri - rest
Sat - Shoulders and abs: rings (rows and reverse shrugs), ab wheel, side plank, spiderman push ups, bridges
Sun - Bouldering at Nibs' board with other friends. Good session altough I still felt tired. I managed to make my feet stick to the tiny footholds probably for the first time, and I almost climbed a couple of problems.

[SA Chris]

Gs - etc

M - evening session at wall. 2 good hours got a load done. Wasn't aware Mondays appear to be student night. Got a bit vexed by them trying to show off by campussing problems overlapping the one I was working on and failing dismally. They lying around treating bouldering mats as a lounge and social area.
T - some core and antags
W - another evening session at wall. 2 good hours, got a fair bit done, but brachioradialis felt a bit sore, not used to 2 sessions a week, hopefully will improve.
T - nothing packed
F - nothing, train to York, drank too much and danced like an idiot at party.
S - hungover, but managed to get to Brimham in afternoon. toproped friends on some easy stuff, then did a bit of a circuit at Pommel Area. Didn't suck too much in spite of not climbing on grit for about 6 years.
S - short walk in morning, train home.

[kelvin]

...what's the goal for when I'm back in April?

Getting your sports fitness up some class problems! Hope you had a good day on Sunday, did the yoof get his 7A?

He did - the one you told him to tick in Sabot, third go. Plus flashed le toit de cul de chein (sp?), so he was happy.

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

[cowboyhat]

Major coup for me to do PUTP. Training wise, need to get a plan together, though nice at the mo to have no plan 

Ooh I like the Bollinger sequence, what a great idea. This is as big as the MLm sequence on Brad Pit!