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Wrist troubles (Read 8477 times)

JonB

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Wrist troubles
February 01, 2015, 03:03:26 pm
I've had issues with the ulnar side of my wrist feeling a bit 'stiff' and inflexible for a while now, but didn't really think anything of it. However, it's recently started to feel quite painful rather than just stiff. Haven't been able to find a lot of info, but seems like it might be tendinitis?

I've circled the area of pain on this pic:




Any thoughts/advice please? Or should I just wait til my copy of make or break arrives and hope that Dave Mac has a silver bullet for it? Cheers!

fatdoc

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#1 Re: Wrist troubles
February 01, 2015, 05:03:24 pm
Internet diagnosis... Bad idea...

BUT I strongly suggest you google TFCC

I hope not so, if so. Welcome to my world...


JonB

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#2 Re: Wrist troubles
February 01, 2015, 08:05:43 pm
Internet diagnosis... Bad idea...

BUT I strongly suggest you google TFCC

I hope not so, if so. Welcome to my world...

OK, well some reading on that front has terrified me sufficiently to think that ceasing all climbing activity and a trip to the doctor is probably in order. Thanks, I think...  :worms:

Boredboy

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#3 Re: Wrist troubles
February 01, 2015, 08:21:49 pm


I've had triangular fibro-cartilage problems for years. Flares up if I do to much mantling or twisty undercut moves. Otherwise generally it seems like a very manageable problem. I think they can trim it if it gets really bad. The ulnar fovea sign is supposed to be a reasonable test for it.

Kampinho

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#4 Re: Wrist troubles
February 01, 2015, 08:47:02 pm
Had trouble with the same section of my wrist. My own diagnosis  - so be careful with what i'm saying  ;) - was, that my ecu tendon was stressed.
Helpful was:
1. Massage of the triggerpoint:
http://www.triggerpoints.net/muscle/extensor-carpi-ulnaris
2. Light stretching
3. Progressive strength training by doing only the eccentric part of reversed wrist curls

fatdoc

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#5 Re: Wrist troubles
February 02, 2015, 12:08:33 pm
Extensor and flexor wrist curls, lateral to medial theraband resistance training and strapping wrists before free weights and avoiding hard mantles is the summery of the advice from an olympic boxing physio I blagged a session with last year.

My surgeon hand specialist colleague won't go near them, surgery would get deestroyed with the forces we put through our wrists.

No olympic boxer ( very common injury) has had surgery in years.

the_dom

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#6 Re: Wrist troubles
February 02, 2015, 12:16:14 pm
Extensor and flexor wrist curls, lateral to medial theraband resistance training and strapping wrists before free weights and avoiding hard mantles is the summery of the advice from an olympic boxing physio I blagged a session with last year.

My surgeon hand specialist colleague won't go near them, surgery would get deestroyed with the forces we put through our wrists.

No olympic boxer ( very common injury) has had surgery in years.

I get this quite often - was diagnosed as tendonitis by my physio (who is a very experienced climber).

Rest helps a lot, as does strapping the wrist and laying off the Beastmaker slopers - for some reason the angle of the 35s especially seems to aggravate it.

jmews

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#7 Re: Wrist troubles
February 02, 2015, 06:12:59 pm
I did not want to comment on this at first, but I also suspect (anecdotal evidence) TFCC. I have been struggling with this for around 18 months now after a non-climbing related accident that put a violent and sudden twisting force through my wrist. I had a stiff, painful wrist that would click when rotated. I felt constant tension through my little finger, and my thumb had occasional spasms.


I read similar information to Fatdoc, and agree completely with what he says. However, due to the nature of my injury, I actually opted to have a surgery in October to try and reduce the inflammation. No amount of physio, mobility work, rest, or anything else had given relief. In my case, the tear was not in the vascular region of the TFCC, and so there was, apparently, no chance of my injury healing. There was a lot of inflammation, and even a slight return to activity would undo any benefits gained from resting. To try and address this cycle, my surgeon debrided the inflamed tissue athroscopically. I also had a large cyst removed from below the base of my thumb - apparently this was likely related to the large trauma which caused my injury. I specifically told my surgeon not to try and reconstruct the TFCC unless it was a textbook case for this work. He has also climbed, had seen a 3T MRI of my wrist prior to the sugery, and agreed that 'he would not try and be a hero'.


I am now 4 months out (to the day) from the surgery. I have been doing extensive strengthening work, mobility work, and starting to pick back up activities. I completed my first session at the wall two weeks ago with minimal pain or stiffness. I have been doing the wrist curls and band exercises described, and have also been wearing a splint at night. I am still unconvinced that I made the right decision, but so far I have far less pain and stiffness throughout the day, and the scar tissue seems to have regained flexibility. Time will tell as I begin to stress the wrist more heavily, but at this point I do not regret my choice.

JonB

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#8 Re: Wrist troubles
February 02, 2015, 06:35:22 pm
Thanks for all the advice guys. It does seem like a TFCC issue, I think. I've been trying to address a weakness on open handing/slopers recently, also started doing dips regularly. Nice to know that the one thing I'm actually alright at (mantling/pressing) will now leave me crocked. Doubly annoying since I already do a bunch of wrist curls for my elbows. Can't fucking win. Having said all that, I'll wait to see what a professional says in person before melting down completely.

jmews

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#9 Re: Wrist troubles
February 02, 2015, 06:39:23 pm
One thing that did help me was to be very careful about wrist position when dipping and other movements. Focusing on wrist angle actually helped me on slopers as well! Try not to worry too much about this - it is certainly manageable in a variety of ways, and the main point seemed to be that it is not causing horrific long term degeneration if managed well, so if you can work with/through it, then you are not screwed.


I also saw something about wrist position and warm ups yesterday. It may help a few of us with these issues: http://antranik.org/avoid-wrist-pain/


fatdoc

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#10 Re: Wrist troubles
February 02, 2015, 08:21:35 pm
One thing that did help me was to be very careful about wrist position when dipping and other movements. Focusing on wrist angle actually helped me on slopers as well! Try not to worry too much about this - it is certainly manageable in a variety of ways, and the main point seemed to be that it is not causing horrific long term degeneration if managed well, so if you can work with/through it, then you are not screwed.


I also saw something about wrist position and warm ups yesterday. It may help a few of us with these issues: http://antranik.org/avoid-wrist-pain/

This post, and your post above... Totally mint posts mate.

I know a shit load about this now, never heard about it until I got blighted by it 12 months ago... Multiple despondent NNFN posts on here will testify my frustration, damn thing nearly cost me a trip of a lifetime DH MTB to whistler an all.

I train hard for my bike, slightly hard for bouldering and train my tits off for obstacle course stuff like tough mudder etc.... Once you find limits and be sensible ( and buy a ton of ice packs for the evenings) you can progress in climbing... In my late middle age I am... So anyone can.

If I may say, in your case surgery was a brave, but wise choice.

If I can also say, anyone with TFCC issues... DON'T DIP!!

jmews

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#11 Re: Wrist troubles
September 23, 2015, 09:20:24 pm
Following up on this for anyone interested/suffering from TFCC issues.


All was well until June (8 months out from debridement), when I suddenly had a re occurrence of symptoms. Nothing seemed to bring it on. Pain was bad, nerve pain through pinky was bad.


After a month of rest, and using the wrist widget (google it if you have issues with tfcc), I felt slight relief. I am still not climbing again, but am back to wrist exercises and swimming. I also bought an arm aid (desperate times..) and it seems to be helping. Typing is the worst for causing flare ups. Not convinced I will ever climb again. It's now been 2 years since original injury. Don't mess around with this injury :/

roddersm

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#12 Re: Wrist troubles
September 24, 2015, 02:06:01 pm
Shit - have been having some pain in this area recently  -specifically when typing and worse post climbing.

Hasn't noticed it painful when actually climbing yet though - presumed it might be early symptom of carpal tunnel syndrome but this seems worse!

JonB

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#13 Re: Wrist troubles
September 24, 2015, 02:23:47 pm
Following up on this for anyone interested/suffering from TFCC issues.


All was well until June (8 months out from debridement), when I suddenly had a re occurrence of symptoms. Nothing seemed to bring it on. Pain was bad, nerve pain through pinky was bad.


After a month of rest, and using the wrist widget (google it if you have issues with tfcc), I felt slight relief. I am still not climbing again, but am back to wrist exercises and swimming. I also bought an arm aid (desperate times..) and it seems to be helping. Typing is the worst for causing flare ups. Not convinced I will ever climb again. It's now been 2 years since original injury. Don't mess around with this injury :/

Sorry to hear yours is so bad, hope you can get climbing again. Mine has eased up somewhat - I'm still aware of my wrists being an issue, but learning to avoid positions that aggravate them. Also been experimenting with voodoo flossing (see thread here) before and after climbing sessions.

This wrist widget thing, is it to be worn all the time? Any good?

jmews

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#14 Re: Wrist troubles
September 24, 2015, 04:22:19 pm
I wore the wrist widget constantly for a month following flare up. It immediately increased weight bearing and reduced pain. It may have irritated the ulnar nerve, so be careful. I could swim with it, which was my main focus so that I did not go crazy (also have a patella tendon injury). It limits mobility a little, but might be worth trying as an aid to climbing.



Are you wrapping the wrist from above the tfcc and down into the hand for voodoo flossing?

JonB

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#15 Re: Wrist troubles
September 30, 2015, 01:33:40 pm
I wore the wrist widget constantly for a month following flare up. It immediately increased weight bearing and reduced pain. It may have irritated the ulnar nerve, so be careful. I could swim with it, which was my main focus so that I did not go crazy (also have a patella tendon injury). It limits mobility a little, but might be worth trying as an aid to climbing.



Are you wrapping the wrist from above the tfcc and down into the hand for voodoo flossing?

I've been wrapping from the base of the hand up the wrist towards the elbow and doing some basic movements. Wrists seem to have better pain free ROM after flossing, so hopefully it's doing some good.

fatdoc

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#16 Re: Wrist troubles
September 30, 2015, 10:34:55 pm
not read the old thread through again... but for everyone on here's info... SLOW, LIGHT flexor AND extensor wrist curls with a dumbell is what the head olympic boxing physio coach uses. roll the bar down your fingers for the flexor part.. and non of his athletes have had surgery in the last 5 years. its an endemic injury in high level boxing apparently. you can heal by way of this, it took me 9 months. scarily..... i just hit my board on serious rung 50 degree ladder problems 4 weeks ago.. and its coming back.... avoid such wrist extreme wrist distraction training is my very serious recommendation, even when you get well. good luck all..

JonB

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#17 Re: Wrist troubles
October 01, 2015, 03:37:08 pm
avoid such wrist extreme wrist distraction training is my very serious recommendation

What sort of stuff do you mean by this? Thanks for the other info, will incorporate it into rehab sessions.

fatdoc

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#18 Re: Wrist troubles
October 01, 2015, 03:49:34 pm
Well, for me.. So it's completely anecdotal...

Repeated moves with a straight wrist on a steep board doing  ladders feels as if I've distracted the ulna side of wrist from my hand.

 

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