[tomtom]

11stn 1lb most of the week...

M: Meeting in NL, food, booze etc...

Tu: Fly back from NL - get in to Manchester about 10am. At Woodwell for 12 Start working Not Bad Dave - but then get sucked into working Kiss of the Dragon. Get my sequence sorted out - then run out of crimp power.. retire to working NBD (very different type of problem) and make some progress - manage first move and work out some body position stuff on the main lunge over the lip.

W: Rest

Th: Work... long day... beer in evening

Fr: Decide (at last minute) to stop at Buckstones (Nont Sarahs) on the way back from Hull to Manchester. Small kids group there who watch in some bemusement as I warm up on Pig in Pokey. Work all the moves, but don't feel happy to do it with two thin mats and no spotter. Can't do the final campus (then afterwards find out people campus to a lower hold on the edge, not straight up to the break - I must have been climbing at too many crags with 'rules' recently!). Move on and do the worlds easiest 7A (flash!) which is surely 6B - and a check of UKC shows I am not alone in this view. Even a grade whore like myself can't take the 7 for this! Start having a look at "The Whack/Legz Akimbo 7C" and decide to pull on and have a play. I make progress - considerable progress. Its a one move wonder - pulling on and slapping/moving up for small (but positive) break is the crux. I can pull on, I can move up - but slap under, over, under, over the break - just not connecting the deadpoint. I run out of energy and skin, a but frustrated as sooooo close. One for a cold day...

Sa: rest. Did nothing. Grumped about the house for no real reason...

Su: Woodwell. Manage Kiss of the Dragon after about an hour. Excellent:



Move back to Not Bad Dave and make some more progress (do first two moves) and some better slapping for the big hold over the lip... the problem is a core destroyer!


A strange, but good week climbing wise. FINALLY shaken off the lurking cold I've had for a couple of weeks (just in time for freshers flu!) and really pleased to get another lime 7B... I guess I am climbing better than ever at the moment, even in a sub optimal week. My close 7C was also a surprise...

[tomtom]

Just been totting up new problems to date (this year)

7A   19
7A+ 7
7B   4
7B+ 1

Very pleased - especially as my back was injured/holding me back until end of March...

[Muenchener]

STG: cross something, anything, off my long and growing list of redpoint projects About bloody time too. 
MTG (2015): redpoint two one more 7a’s another 7a and a 7a+
LTG (2016/2017): Redpoint 7b's with dance-themed names (Sautanz, Brachiation)

Week Three of continually having a slight cold with headaches, sore throat etc. Overridden by the urgent need to finally redpoint *something* at the weekend.

M: Wall, Thalkirchen. Fairly relaxed routes session 5b 5b 6b 5c 6a+ 6b 6b 6a+
T:
W:
T:   Beastmaker max hangs, Steve Maisch protocol. Excellent session: longer hangs or heavier weights than last week on everything.
F:
S: Family outing to Oktoberfest. Very light on the bier, because I already felt like shit in the morning following on from a week of mucho work and not enough sleep and don't want to make matters even worse when it's Redpoint Day tomorrow.
S: Konstein redpoint day. Ticked Edelbitter 7a yyfy. This was the first 7a I ever tried and is a really lovely route: big moves on mostly good holds up an ever steepening scooped wall with a tricky pull out at the top onto the finishing slab. Delighted to get this on a perfect early autumn day in the woods, felt harder than the other two 7a's I've done.

[nai]

Nice one guys.

STG - Roof Warrior
MTG - bit of bouldering and start to develop killer endurance over winter
LTG Put killer endurance to good use next Spring


M - rest

T - woke up stiff and very unmotivated, considered calling time on the Sport season but had made plans so had to go along. Opted against trying Roof Warrior, partner was trying Martial Music so struggled up that as a warm up. Second go much better, long links, Third go redpointed it without too much fuss. Did it another 4 times on a top rope including 2 burns back to back. For once left feeling better than I arrived with renewed enthusiasm.

W rest - after much deliberation emailed Tom Randall about an assessment and training plan

Th - got on Roof Warrior, far far better than previous attempt, linked bottom to roof but still didn't try the crimp move to protect finger. Did all the moves in the roof with some handy beta from below but didn't quite manage to link them all, possibly could have if the beta had come moments earlier.  Did link kneebar to belay but grabbed draw rather than clip, then found the jug up right and linked from matched on the rail to the chains. Probably need one more working day then hopefully be able to start RPing.   Psyched all the way up to 11

F - Woke battered, shoulders, back and neck all sore, no way was I going to climb today.  Until about 11 I got bored of chores and nipped out briefly to try Jerry's again.  Reworked the end but the stopper move still felt hard and unlikely to link. First two tries fell at this point but second time I got back onto work it with Left foot accidentally where Right should be for the set up move and just did the move, felt about 10x easier.  Worked out how to do the foot swap, rested 5 minutes then did it with little fuss, drove home    ing all the way.
 
S- frustrating day a bit like tomtom's

S - ditto, torn whether to do anything but in the end did a quick evening max hangs session, new PB of 93kg on the big slots.

Decent week, couple of good days out, renewed project psyche and a minor success. Oh and weight dipped under 58kg, arriving at fighting weight at the perfect time 

[fried]

Good work people.

M-Tu - Work
W - Indoors at Arkose, spent most of the time on overhanging stuff like I should be. Fun but packed as it was later than I'm used to.

Th-Fr - Wanted to fit in a BM session, but recent shoulders niggles have left we wary of fucking up my outdoor sessions.

Sa - Roche aux Oiseaux, started ominously by repeatly falling of a 4 I'd chosen to warm up on, then took 2 goes on another I'd done umpteen times...

Started to work L'oiseaux-lyre http://bleau.info/oiseaux/15137.html, might as well fall off something harder. Sun was badly positioned so did a couple of blue circuit problems. Then surprised myself by getting Petit toit http://bleau.info/oiseaux/15221.html in a few goes, really soft for 6A if you can lank it. Had a few more goes on L'oiseaux-lyre, then went for a rest on the excellent slab of Pot de Colle.

Went back to L'oiseaux-lyre had two shaky goes, had a sit down, noticed my shoes were really loosely laced, tightened them up. Topped out next go for my first 6A+, a nice one too.

Spent the rest of the day playing on more difficult stuff and ticking some easier stuff.

Su - Ache, eat a lot of good food and drink too much. Nice lie in.

And 73.6kg on Friday. All is good.

[Muenchener]

Topped out next go for my first 6A+, a nice one too.

Excellent, well done. Looks very good in the pic on bleau.info

[fried]

It looks much higher in the pic on bleau.info than in real life

[kelvin]

Nice one fried - that picture does make it look taller than it is tho. Almost didn't recognise it!
My first 6A+ in Font too.
Will be parked up behind the cemetery from Thu morning for a few days... this has got me psyched!

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

[mr chaz]

Good stuff folks!

STG: get on some 8As
LTG: 8A, 8b

M.
T. New yellow circuit at the wall (7a and up). No 'training'.
W.
T.
F. Max hangs session at the wall. Unassisted, no added weight.
S.
S. 6 hour round trip taking little bro to Uni.

Not a very productive week, next week will be better...

[Pako]

Quite a good week despite the dark clouds of finals brooding on the horizon

M - rested
T - board session, fairly decent one
W - rested
T - board session, finally did all the remaining moves of the long term project. felt quite strong
F - rest day
S - decided to go running for the first time after putting it off for years, it was actually great fun, fantastic night run with good music. definitely going to be doing this more as a way to lose weight. afterwards I had a great board session, fell off the last move of my 10 move 'power endurance' project, a bit gutted but great progress. some good power too this session, did some new moves I hadn't done before. later I tried one arm hanging the middle edge on the bm 2000, managed it for about 3 seconds. I should do some fingerboarding to be able to hang this properly. might do a session or ttwo this week
Su - went running again in the rain at night, was even better than last time. going to try go running three times a week, on the days that I'm not training otherwise. went for another board session afterwards, it was fairly good, punted off of the same move as last night on the PE project. next session hopefully. also almost sent my crimp ladder project. I've been trying to fully crimp less and use the half crimp more on small edges, feels less injury prone and good to be able to half crimp edges I previously needed to fully crimp.
also tried doing a one arm with a 13kg weight later, managed it from about a quarter of the way through in the neutral grip one armer position. I only train this once a week, it's just a fun thing to do, hopefully some time soon I will get a nice one armer with the weight from straight arm to fully locked.

overall a great week, some fingerboarding may have been nice, but the running was fantastic, and teh finger strength seems to be very good anyway. sadly i learned last night that the 7B+ problem i tried ages ago outside and almost sent had its crux hold broken off. pretty sad since I've been rehearsing the moves on that thing at least once a week for the past couple months, and always hoped to go back out there and finish it off.

STG - one arm hang the middle edge on BM 2000 for 5 seconds, finish off the PE and crimp ladder problems on the board. going outdoors would be lovely too, to actually see what grade I am climbing at if anything
MTG - one arm the middle edge on the BM 2000. do my one armer with 13kg extra. do the pinch problem and crimp tension problems on the board
LTG - would love to climb 7C+ or 8A outdoors. finishing off my long term project on the board would also be great.

[T_B]

84.2Kg

M -
T -
W - Lunch. 30 mins on Foundry Wave but felt knackered so stopped.
T - P.M. School. 30 and 50deg. Dope Black Slope and Dave's prob on 30 degree, decent go at Mr Blobby on 50deg.
F -
S - A.M. 45 mins fingerboard. Failed on 2nd set of front 3, but did 2 x 6 x 7 half crimped and managed one set of 6 x 7 back 3.
S - A.M. Stanage fog and midges - urggh. Bailed to Tor. Put nemesis problem, Powerhumps 7B+ to bed. Got stuck into Pump up the Power, getting left crimp twice and set up for next move.

Really tired at the start of the wk from thrashing myself the previous Sunday at Curbar. I rarely thrash, cos it takes me so long to recover. Lots of discussion about optimum venue for Sunday but ended up at the Tor as ming early on on the grit. PUTP account re-opened due to it not feeling like the living end (no doubt linked to feeling good on half-crimp - see Sat).

[shark]

Well done fried. Glad youve got your psyche back Muenchener.

10.11-12

M.
T. Malham Up with Paul Reeve and Maddy Cope arrived at noon. Was forecast to be cloudy but was blue skies and baking. Hung around for over 3 years / hours waiting for shade. Tom F showed up. Cons x 2 . Go 1 Got to second best highpoint Go2 Slipped off second move Go3 Got passed horn and fell going for sloper. Walk round Cove Go 4 Fumbled the horn - felt tired Go 5 Wasnt going to have another go but decided to give it a whirl and got to the final traverse. Frustrating day. Kept my record of getting to the top traverse twice in a session for the fifth consecutive session. This time in the poorest conditions which must be some kind of progress
W.
T. Cancelled arrangements to go back to Malham on friday as forecast was too hot. Eve Burbage with Tommy. I did Banana Finger Direct 6C and Definitive 5.12 also 6C before it started raining. Went for a walk and faied to find the Terrace and came back to find Tommy had thrashed himself and mashed his fingers repeatedly trying Definitive 5.12 whilst i was raining. Late Eve. Fingerboard session Step change imrovement on weighted deadhangs even factoring in weight loss 
F.
S. Went to see Canada vs Italy. Good match. Evening do - exhibited great restraint on nibbles and drinks front
S. Malham with Tommy. Left it late and arrived mid afternoon. Too hot.  Slithered my way to top traverse on first proper redpoint but was busted. Sub par goes thereafter.   

Now been up to final traverse eleven times in last six sessions but perhaps only two of those redpoint attempts could be described as OK conditions. Naturally getting a bit jaded. Have provisionally arranged to go up tomorrow afternoon/evening when weather looks a bit better. Tempted to have a break from it until temperature drops.    Work is also building up. 

[ashtond6]

sounds like great efforts Shark - keep it up! Think how easy it will feel for you when the right conditions come 


STG - Consolidate 7a/+
MTG – 7b+
LTG/VLTG – daren’t say 

M – Rest/antag
T – Onsighting up to V3/4, foot on campusboarding 40 mins
W – Rest/antag
T – Traverses & 15 mins fingerboarding
F – Rest/antag
S – Chee Tor, RP White Gold (which is in mint condition at the moment! Well done Team Peak!)
S – Two Tier, RP Quality Control easily, TR Open Gate, could do all the moves but didn’t have the energy to RP. Tried Darl at the end of the day & couldn’t believe how hard it felt

Sore shoulder now though

& still to weigh in this week - Ill update this later to keep track of it

[SA Chris]

goals - etc

M - weights
T - short wall session, but surprisingly productive, managed to time warm up well, and got on the 2 things I wanted to do before too tired.
W - nothing - went to geology lecture. Very interesting, (I resisted telling lecturer Army Dreamers isn't E1 though)
T -  pullup and fingerboard session
F - some core
S - Morning swim with youngest. Took pad for a walk in afternoon, but everywhere was greasy. Arse.
S - Arbroath with kids. Lots of walking, and had a bit of a play on the Rockworks wall at the playpark. Kids more interested in miniature train.

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.

Nothing outdoors this week. Lots of rain...

M: St Leonards. Light session, not much skin after 4 days on granite. Usual shoulder stuff after.
T: Rest.
W: Rain. 9 Degrees. Tried to flash the black comp circuit. ~25 problems V4-V9, all the dynamic world cup style things. Flashed all bar 4, did 3 of them, just leaving the one left. Then went through and flashed a load of the red circuit (supposed to be V6-V8), tried most, flashed most of those, did a few in a couple of shots, didn't do others.
T: Rest. Rain.
F: Rain. St Leonards. Tough climb. Did all new stuff bar 3 stupidest problems. Made up some hard hard problems. Took maybe 35-40 attempts to do one of them. Big campus, fingerboard, push ups, shoulder session after. Ruined.
S: Rain. Rest
S: St Leonards. Wanted to get outside but mates bailed. Zero power, falling off everything. Long warm up and couldn't do the hardest of the problems I'd made up the other day. Must've been pretty tough. Campus, shoulder and push ups after.

Desperate to get back outside. Badly want to get back to Queen's Park and do Paul's Roof V9. I know I can do it.

[tommytwotone]

Goal: Font 7b


M: Was going to climb after work but skin ragged from Snowden session previous day. Did lunchtime HIIT class. Hard work.
T: Nowt.
W: Nowt.
T: Tried the Gym Jones "300" workout ([size=78%]https://gymjones.com/knowledge/3-300[/size]). Completed it in just over 40 minutes, though couldn't do the "floor wipers". Did some serious compensation after work at colleague's leaving do. Rolled in at midnight, up once in the night to feed Una and then up at 5am on Friday when she woke up.
F: Off work on leave. Spent the morning thoroughly regretting all aspects of Thursday, then went out with Una, my best mate and his daughter for a nice afternoon. Hurting from 300.
S: Avoided Leeds due to RWC so went to Peak instead. Ridiculous / stressful drive there due to traffic, eventually arrived at Hathersage with hungry / grumpy Una and her Mum not much better. Had a late lunch in Longlands and then went for a short (hot!) walk at Burbage North and felt better about the fact I wasn't climbing. Hurting from 300.
S: Spent day clearing out our damp and smelly cellar, then inspired by Slackers' recent efforts decided to sort the shed while I was at it. Hurting from 300.


Bit of a "ticking over" week - always feels like it when I've got some kind of midweek social event in there.


Climbing-wise am going through a bit of a dip - been outside (yay!) a fair bit last few weekends, but then have got sucked into demo-ing beta and failing to repeat (NNFN!) stuff I've done before which isn't great for psyche.


Ian - weird you emailed Tommy re: training plan. Am considering the same as I'm a bit stuck in a rut and don't know what to do.

[nai]

Ian - weird you emailed Tommy re: training plan. Am considering the same as I'm a bit stuck in a rut and don't know what to do.

I've been feeling the same, been a poor year after starting with such promise.  Although Thursday on Roof Warrior was a massive improvement vs the last time a month ago though so maybe old-skool deadhangs, weighted pullups and 4x4s is the way to go for me.  Last two years I've said I'd get some coaching if I didn't get 8a and given myself one more chance. Still haven't managed one so time to bite the bullet.  Haven't heard back yet, though, guess he gets deluged with requests at this time of year.

[36chambers]

Forgive me powerclub for it has been 7 weeks since my last confession post.

STG: See a physio and conjure a plan to sort out all my niggles.
MTG: 8A
LTG: 8B

M: ab ripper x
T: Lunch time run. Almscliff, evening session on Jess's Roof 7C, dabbed (barely) catching the finishing jug, back around.
W: Depot, social session. Conscience effort not to trash myself.
T: Antagonistic back/shoulder stuff
F: Almscliff, finished off Jess's Roof, no dab.
S: Caley, opened account on Zoo York 8A. It's hard and brilliant. Happy to finally try the moves. Also briefly tried Ben's Groove sitter 7C+, initial moves felt reasonably promising. There's so much for me to do at Caley this winter! 
S: Caley main, for an easy session, did some 6's that I overlooked in the past. Had a play on Two Squrriels 7B+, definitely one to come back to.

Unfortunately, my tweaky finger has swollen slightly from this week's antics and there's a very faint but just audible grinding/crunching sound when I bend it. I wouldn't have noticed but I specifically checked for noise after hearing a recent horror story about a friend who's badly injured a finger. Movement is fine and I can still climb, but I'm concerned the noise may be from chronic damage. Has anyone dealt with anything similar?

[rodma]

Mon: Nowt
Tues: post work carrock fell. was keen to try and get something done in what was going to be a 90 or so minute session, so headed back to try metronome after having had a play on it a couple of years back. had to have serious words with myself about the landing, the unlikely situation of being back here in good conditions (and with more than two pads) etc. chickened out of the stand start, but managed to convince myself that this wouldn't happen if i got there from the sit. a couple of goes later and i scratched my way to the top. well chuffed. didn't even get home that late :D

Wed: easy campus
Thurs: first hardish wall session in a while due to there being a good scene. thanks to all who were there.
Fri: rest
Sat: Shaftoe: really scrittly, like really really scrittly. tried bloodsport again, but am just far too weak.
Sun: Kyloe: was going to go to bowden but there was blazing sunshine, so headed for some shade. tried hitchhikers ss rh. failed. had a few throws at the start of monks. too weak, but manage to get past the mono a couple of times without my finger hurting, which is the second best outcome to any attempt on Monks :D

A good week all in all (EDIT: forgot to finish typing)

[tomtom]

Nice one Rodma a little slip at the end there to keep things spicy!

I can see the line of fast cars and campervans winking at me in the left there...

[rodma]

Nice one Rodma a little slip at the end there to keep things spicy!

I can see the line of fast cars and campervans winking at me in the left there...

cheers tomtom

well done on your ticklist this year so far. will try and get down to the south lakes again soonish (I almost attempted to join you on Tues, but wouldn't have got there until about 6pm). there's so much i still want to do there.

[Nibile]

Good week, back to board climbing!
Mon - max fingerboarding BM. Good sessions, super intense.
Tue - rest.
Wed - pull ups, contrast training and speed. Barbell complex, mega hard: bentover row, front squat, snatch pulls, good mornings, overhead press, deadlift, x2. Ouch. Forearms like granite ballons.
Thu - board climbing! Good session despite feeling tired before starting. First time with better connies, 20 degrees and 53% humidity, immediate progress on the project! Did it in bits and had two good goes. Steady on the previously low percentage moves. Boy done good in the Summer!
Fri - snatch pulls pyramid finisher hill sprints x6.
Sat - board climbing. Good goes on old projects of 6/8 moves.
Sun - board climbing. A bit tired, fingers especially. Shoulder a bit sore from previous sessions. The quest for Winter greatness has officially started. Lots of projects to be done.

[fried]

Nice one fried - that picture does make it look taller than it is tho. Almost didn't recognise it!
My first 6A+ in Font too.
Will be parked up behind the cemetery from Thu morning for a few days... this has got me psyched!

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

PM me if you fancy meeting up, I'll probably be out on Saturday morning. Weather looks cracking for the forseeable future.

[kelvin]

PM sent chap - see you Saturday 

[the_dom]

Mon: Surf, followed by 5/5/5 fingerboard session a la Steve Maisch. Quite surprised at gains.
Tues: Treadmill at lunch. Hard
Wed: Another 5/5/5 fingerboard session a la Maisch.
Thurs: Bouldering and one arm max hangs, but really feeling two heavy fingerboard sessions.
Fri: AM surf, PM trail run.
Sat: Really heavy 3/3/3 fingerboard session a la Maisch.
Sun: Rained out and no motivation to train.

Some heavy fingerboarding during the week - starting to see gains, but feeling really tired, especially when climbing. That said, I'm treating this as an investment for my trip at the end of the year, and as research, so I'm committed to the long term rather than the short term..