That is a long shake out before the traverse left Simon, I don't remember it being that good a rest. Just a thought but would it be better to just have one chalk of each hand then go?
I did shake out for a longer time than normal that time. I felt pretty comfortable and got further on the redpoint so maybe there is a connection! and an equally strong case for shaking out even longer.
In general two of my natural strengths are bridging and recovery at rests so I would expect to be there longer than most on average would.
Think I will just continue to go on feel when I'm there.