So is that 2 moves from the jug?
This is Farnell on grooved arete squared. Go on shark, I'm syked out of my tiny mind.
You're waiting until Tuesday... WTF?! 2 days rest, no eating and BOOM I reckon.
(unless I find that Simon's recent developments are due to an embrace of EPO!).
Good tactics, if you smash it at this light weight then that's a good steppingstone to doing it properly at your normal weight.
Better conditions and got stupidly close today. Back around on tuesday ...
Damn, sure look diffe The power of dieting
Right, Dolomites trip report.TL:DR, The temps were waaaay down on what they should have been, almost 15 degrees colder. After one attempt we decided that any north faces, including the Hasse were a no go so the rest of the week was spent in the sun as much as possible, mostly doing easier stuff to keep moving.Fri/Sat: Travel and sitting out the rain/snow waiting for the sunny forecast weather.Sun: Drive up to the Tre Cime road head only to discover it closed due to snowfall and watch a snowplow head past us to clear. Whilst it was very pretty (can't seem to embed photos any more), it meant a change of plan.Wound up heading to do Ottovolante which was a great route (thanks Duncan) but we bailed on pitch 8 because despite having on every warm layer I owned we were freezing and the effort of climbing whilst cold got to be too much.Mon: Got on Roberta 89 which was good fun. Not the fastest ascent ever, and managed to route read fail on the crux, but the time allowed the seepage on the last 2 pitches to dry off. Thought the starting 6a/+ slab was the hardest climbing we did on the whole thing, can't see me ever heading to the Wendenstock.Tues: Rest, ish. Did the VF Punta Anna, doing a 4 hour circuit of the good stuff and reversing an easy VF back to the car. Beautiful day. (The top of the VF is in the foreground)Wed: Dawn start for the Via Cassin on the Piccolisima. The smallest tower but at least we got to climb something around the Tre Cime. A good day in the mountains, just enough sun to keep things bearable and an audience to applaud as we abbed/walked off Thurs: Back to Piz Ciavazes to do a route called Abram in the rockfax but not listed anywhere online by the same name. It was 12 pitch VII although most of the climbing was stepping up easy ground and I got a bit bored with that.Managed to top out just before the hail thunderstorm started, as if we weren't cold enough.Fri: Dedicated local research into cake/coffee stops. Still not sure we've found the best one.Sat: Last day route choice limited by snow/rain from previous days meant back to Piz Ciavazes. My lack of sleep caught up with me (4hrs av. a night up till now), so my inner coward said hello whilst I struggled through 1st pitch of a sport route in the cold. Bailed and got on Via Irma which had good crux pitches and was just about all I could cope with on the day.Despite getting a bit down about having the plans scuppered by the freak weather after thinking about it all summer we had a fun trip. I'll need to figure out when to go back for round 2.
I think that being about half a stone lighter has given me the edge.
Quote from: moose on September 18, 2015, 08:44:17 am(unless I find that Simon's recent developments are due to an embrace of EPO!). I think that being about half a stone lighter has given me the edge. It certainly feels like cheating. Dense would agree
and an audience to applaud as we abbed/walked off
Quote from: shark on September 18, 2015, 09:03:29 am I think that being about half a stone lighter has given me the edge. See the gains you got from leaving vertical video in the past, now it's time to leave imperial measures back there too. Use kilograms and you can stop thinking that you're half of something lighter, you can be three whole units lighter. Three! See the difference being just half a unit lighter has made, imagine what it would be like being three units lighter.
'Kinell - has everyone on this forum done an E or two? What's happened to the usual goading, pisstaking and sarcastic comments? Simon [emoji173]️[emoji173]️
Quote from: tomtom on September 18, 2015, 06:17:12 pm'Kinell - has everyone on this forum done an E or two? What's happened to the usual goading, pisstaking and sarcastic comments? Simon [emoji173]️[emoji173]️I think 6 years of having the piss taken is plenty long enough