Good effort doing the nose with that sequence, looks like the worst beta on it I've ever seen. Crazy strong!
Quote from: dave on September 06, 2015, 10:22:30 pmGood effort doing the nose with that sequence, looks like the worst beta on it I've ever seen. Crazy strong! Getting the layaway and the crimp is straightforward with a kneebar/pad and you keep it in when you get a left toe in the pocket only releasing it as you do the pop for the good hold. Ben did it the same way. Lanking straight to the good hold looked too far though to be fair we didn't try that.
The way I was shown as the "shortarse beta" which is actually a lovely elegant sequence for anyone (although harder than the tall way), is to undercut out to the LH sidepull first, but not the poor lower bit you used but the slightly higher bit with the almost invisible diagonal ramp, left toe in roof pocket, right foot toehook next to your hand, then pull up to engage the toehook and pull through to the big jug boss with a RH, using the crimp as an intermediate on the way through. Then to avoid any cutloose you can do a blind toehook match on the undercut to get RF up on the right, which is again a great move.
What was the strange black band around your right leg?
Quote from: dave on September 07, 2015, 09:52:50 amThe way I was shown as the "shortarse beta" which is actually a lovely elegant sequence for anyone (although harder than the tall way), is to undercut out to the LH sidepull first, but not the poor lower bit you used but the slightly higher bit with the almost invisible diagonal ramp, left toe in roof pocket, right foot toehook next to your hand, then pull up to engage the toehook and pull through to the big jug boss with a RH, using the crimp as an intermediate on the way through. Then to avoid any cutloose you can do a blind toehook match on the undercut to get RF up on the right, which is again a great move.Makes sense. Ill have a go when I next go there with Ben and take shoes more suitable for toehooking,
Quote from: tomtom on September 07, 2015, 09:54:53 amWhat was the strange black band around your right leg? It signifies I am a member of the dwarf batallion of the Waafen SS
Speaking of which - is the turtle starting to stir in his box yet? I saw a three legged goose flying south yesterday...
Quote from: tomtom on September 07, 2015, 10:27:16 amSpeaking of which - is the turtle starting to stir in his box yet? I saw a three legged goose flying south yesterday...Turtles don't sleep in the summer
Surely Barrows' responsibility is limited to lime calling only? The grit should lie with another (the uncaller?)
Quote from: SA Chris on September 07, 2015, 10:42:03 amSurely Barrows' responsibility is limited to lime calling only? The grit should lie with another (the uncaller?)Fuck. This is complicated. I think we should form a committee and generate a decision support matrix.
(Got any lettuce?)
Quote from: tomtom on September 07, 2015, 10:52:48 am(Got any lettuce?)Hands off - that's my lunch
Quote from: shark on September 07, 2015, 11:22:24 amQuote from: tomtom on September 07, 2015, 10:52:48 am(Got any lettuce?)Hands off - that's my lunchVery wrong.
Barely September, the heather's still purple, midges still rampant, Christmas deccys aren't even in the shops yet but hankering after the calling has started already. Lunacy
Quote from: fried on September 06, 2015, 03:37:14 pmMTG - A 6A+/6B this autumn/ winter would be nicehave you had a go at Chapeau Chinois at Sabot?very nice 6B that responds well to the correct beta - and all the hard bit is low down and thus very workablevideo of a very attractive fat bloke doing it available from the usual websites
MTG - A 6A+/6B this autumn/ winter would be nice