[fried]

STG - Get from 75.2kg down to 74.5kg by the end of September.
MTG - A 6A+/6B this autumn/ winter would be nice, but I'll happily settle for a sackfull of 5+/6A stuff in a variety of styles.
LTG - 7A by 50 ( 6 years to go)

M - Indoors, too hot. Chose 3/4 probs not my style to work, did O.K on 2 of them, but not the conditions for trying anything hard.
T/W - Nothing, a bit of bamboo twirling.
Th - First BM session for a long time, unsuprisingly tough, scraped through 1 set had to finish on jugs. I'll start back on this now it's cooling down.

F - Afternoon off work, so a rare afternoon/ early evening session. Went to Roche aux sabots, dismayed to find that the yellow circuit has been replaced with an orange circuit, and the blue has been modified.....no mention of this on the Cosiroc site, not sure who's responsible.

Warmed up, then got stuck into Joyeuses des Noel 6A+ http://bleau.info/sabots/5747.html (not the line in the video!). I had a play on this last year, and I don't think I got off the ground, made better progress today, but couldn't get the last move.

Had a go at a couple of reds, but nothing doing, so did the first 10 or so blue problems in good style. I'd done Le Narine http://bleau.info/sabots/17688.html with the right-hand exit, and found it easy at the beginning of the year, so I tried the left-hand exit 6A, did it first go, then remembered it was a sit-start so redid it next go. Still feels really soft.

S- Long walk in Paris
Su - Rocher Canon after much uming and ahring, warmed up on some yellow, nasty dull ache in left upper arm, decide to have a go on Le oeuf de colombe 6A http://bleau.info/canon/3306.html. Never left the ground on this before, so was happy to find a nice sequence for the first couple of  moves. Wait 15mins desperately massaging arm, Hit the top but fluff it. Arm too painful to continue. Had a go on Caprice 6A, but it was obvious after a couple of goes the day was finished. Pissed off drive home.

A few days off looks in order.

Weight shot up to 76.5kg, then dropped down to 75.2kg today

[tomtom]

Thanks fried.

STG - hope the scales lie tomorrow morning...

M: Rest

Tu: Woodwell. Sole aim of doing The Beauty of Being Numb (after getting close last week). Did it - 2nd or 3rd attempt. Superb. A bit of thought about getting my hips closer to the roof and that gave me the extra 2-3cm I needed to get the problem. Nailed the next couple of moves too - that were hard. Excellent - first 7B+ in ages...

Then went down to the other end to have a go at Rigpa (7Bish).. got into the gaston nicely (which I found hard before) but on second go pinged off backwards and rolled down the hill - looking at a large lump of sharp limestone that swung towards my head as a barrelled. Missed it, but a little shaken. Started to have a play at not bad dave - then the mother of all thunderstorms came and I sat under the roof for 45 min sitting it out... moderately scary at times...

W: Work

Thu: Stopped at CragX on the way back from Hull... I've deliberately avoided my Jericho Road odyssey there for the last few weeks - as I was getting a bit sick of it. But having done some decent grades in the last few weeks, felt strong - decided it was time to get back on it.

It went second go. A fight, a scrappy ascent. Only first pads in the roof jug but I just gritted and held it. Feet stayed on rock solid - sketched through to the final flake - got my feet in the right position but couldn't remember what hand to move. A strange sort of autopilot took over and I just went for the flake with whatever hand. It felt wrong, but I wasn't going to stop trying - bought the other hand over even though I felt out of balance - but held it. Matched. In control - then dropped off. Finished. Done. Very happy - the summer project all done - at last... Took me 1/2 hour to recover! Then had a play on Cherokee Lane (which had felt miles off before) - got really really close a couple of times having made good progression - but ran out of beans. Played on the Pinch and went off home feeling really really happy. Celebrated by having an argument with MrsTT

Fr: 45min session at Hobby moor. Climbing well, but no progression on HOuse on the Hill RH - fuck its hard for 7B - super (for me) powerful moves up on those crimps. What felt vaguely possible last time felt impossible this...

Drive to friends wedding in Warwick - managed to limit evening drinks to 1 glass of wine.

Sa: Wedding. Ate the largest English breakfast of my life - then got muntered. MrsTT couldn't walk...

Su: No hangover! But slept shite - drove home gingerly - inhabited the sofa for the rest of the day

A good week - some big numbers (for me) went down and a long term project. Superb. Off to N.Lakes tomorrow evening for 4-5 days - so hoping to hit Carrock this next week and get a few targets there done..

[the_dom]

Started a more structured training programme based on Steve Maisch's programme. Will be interesting to see how it turns out..

Mon: Bouldering then weighted max hangs strength test. Didn't have enough weight, so realised that I need to use F3 and B3 on the small rung of the BM2K for my max hangs.
Tues: Rest day
Wed: Weighted max hangs in the AM, then PM bouldering
Thurs: Deadlifts and kettlebell swings
Fri: Bouldering and one arm max hangs.
Sat: Surf and pinch training
Sun: Bouldering - did some stuff up to 7B, then put some time into an 8A+. Did all of the moves bar 2, so maybe a new project..

[Nibile]

Mon - nothing.
Tue - kettlebell swings, weights complex, triceps, shoulder barbell carry, abs. This finisher here . The barbell carry is brutal. Fantastic find!
Wed - standing ab rolls; power cleans pyramid.
Thu - nothing. Doms.
Fri - nothing. Doms.
Sat - nothing. Got drunk at a friend's wedding.
Sun - nothing.

Hard week, finally the last one of a tough period full of committments, late nights, alcohol and unpredictable eating. Had fun though.
The only two sessions I did were memorable.
Now I'm back to staying at home and eating properly. Still in good shape. Next weekend the Dolomites project is going down!

[kelvin]

Just wanted to say thanks - won't be posting for a while now. Cheers for all the advice, encouragement and letting this punter report without ripping the piss too much.
Never got found go ticking anything harder than 6b this year, so aiming for a whole grade number by this time next year. Fingers crossed for staying injury free.
Cheers people.


Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

[Muenchener]

STG: close any of my large and growing collection of redpoint projects
MTG (2015): redpoint two more 7a’s and a 7a+
LTG (2016/2017): Redpoint 7b's with dance-themed names (Sautanz, Brachiation)

M-W: hard week at work, lazy & demoralised at home. Nothing done.
T:   Wall, Boulderwelt. 40 minutes ca onsight level bouldering to warm up, then circuits.
F:
S: Had planned to go to to Dachstein for some alpineering but weather not suitable. Frankenjura instead. Tried a 7a+ in the morning that was, however, hopelessly beyond my current level of finger strength. Had better luck in the afternoon on a one move wonder 7a with a dyno crux. This went rather better. Hit but didn't hold the target pocket on my third go and last of the day. (Some stumpy has the route on 8a.nu at 7b+. lol)   
S: Frankenjura. Heavy rain in the night, cold damp & windy in the morning. Felt obliged to put in a token go on the new proj, but bailed when I couldn't feel the setup holds for the dyno 'cos my fingers were numb. Went bouldering instead, did what I think is probably my first real 6B+. Certainly my first in steep butch 'jura style. yyfy.

[Muenchener]

Just wanted to say thanks - won't be posting for a while now.

Are you off then? Best of luck. Let me know if you find the van veering towards anywhere northern Italy / eastern Alps / Frankenjura-ish

[kelvin]

Gotta a very busy couple of weeks left but won't be climbing much, no training for sure. Got your number mate and you'd be welcome in Spain

Same goes for everyone else - anyone needs a belay, just shout. Catalunya nov-jan. Alicante for Feb and march.

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

[nai]

Went to Roche aux sabots, dismayed to find that the yellow circuit has been replaced with an orange circuit

Same problems repainted or a different set of problems?

[shark]

Thanks fried

10.11-10.13 Look at me !

M.  Malham with Tom. Arrived mid afternoon to everyone complaining of greasy conditions. Warm, still and very midgey. Contemplated going home. Cons x 3 F&EEE x 1. Go 1 Ground to fumbling the resting undercut new highpoint  . Go2 Fumbled horn Go 3 Got to horn and fell off going for sloper Go 4 Dabbed the horn. Tommy got close to doing Raindogs in two halves. Climbed till it was dark.
T. AM Awesome Sheffield. Guinea pig in a lactate sampling experiment. Got pumped foot-on hanging an edge, doing a route and then with a handgrip device. Pleased to onsight the route (7b (fun blue one to top of steep main wall) and then straight back on to get quarter way up to failure.       PM Labouring
W.
T. Weighed in at unbelievable 10.11.0 but felt very hungry mid morning so went to cafe for second breakfast
F. Noon Malham with Nick C. Got to crag at midday but too sunny so hung around then led Appetite for a change which was bit too pumpy then had a snooze in sun. Dogged up the Oak. Go 1 got horn but didn't latch it. Go 2 Got to horn and felt strong went out right but got sloper in wrong place. Tried to adjust to get thumb catch then do move tickled undercut but left hand slipped off sloper and skinned my knuckles. Go 3 Felt tired but climbed well and almost overcooked throw but somehow didnt hold the horn for some reason grrrr. Go 4 touched sloper and had a workout on the high redpoint crux going to and from undercut and sidepull to failure. Midge free to begin with but they came out later so glad to have bought the midge head nets yesterday. Generally cool temps. Bit disappointed but good to equal Monday's new highpoint
S. Ben's 17th. He expressed an interest in going bouldering outdoors. Went to Burbage with him and Tom in afternoon. Temps not to bad but midges were fucking awful. After warming up went on Mermaid held the sloper three times and on fourth got to top.    though have a nagging doubt I did a micro dab. We went across to the Nose which had a lower midge count. Ben and me got stuck in and Ben got really close but not quite - would have been awesome to do his first 7A on his birthday. I managed to pull it off  Dead chuffed as although I have furkled the holds in the past never tried it properly as the landing looked bad 
S More labouring - skip now full

Midges aside an awesome week. Conditions for Malham look very promising and booked to go back on Tuesday 



ps Contrary to appearances I do not have a leaky anus

[fried]

Gotta a very busy couple of weeks left but won't be climbing much, no training for sure. Got your number mate and you'd be welcome in Spain

Same goes for everyone else - anyone needs a belay, just shout. Catalunya nov-jan. Alicante for Feb and march.

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

Have fun, give me a shout when you're back in Font.

[tomtom]

Leaky anus, losing weight? Coincidence???

[nai]

STG - Roof Warrior and Body Machine
MTG - bit of bouldering and start to develop killer endurance over winter
LTG Put killer endurance to good use next Spring


M - hour open hand on the board, finger felt dodgy and strange pain in the side of hand
 
T - nowt

W - tentatively warm up, safest option seems to be max hangs on big slot, did a new PB 85kg. 500m rowing sprint to finish

Th - FoC (1:20 on)- reduced rest to 50s, failed move 19 of 20 final rep. 5x 1 min Rowing sprints to finish

F  rest

S - max hangs, another new PB 87kg (150% body weight) but decided to try the Eva Lopez thing so did 3x83kg for 10s. 3x10 pullups +10kg, 5x 1 min Rowing sprints to finish

S- FoC rest time 40s, fails late in reps 6,7,8.

Oddly low psyche week, thought I'd be mad for it with the kids back at school from Wednesday. Probably caused by niggles and poor performance on Monday.  Seems to be revived now though, keen to get out this week.

[fried]

Went to Roche aux sabots, dismayed to find that the yellow circuit has been replaced with an orange circuit

Same problems repainted or a different set of problems?

Yellow seems to have completely changed, I didn't check all the problems, but most had been erased that I saw. The blue is pretty much the same with some off-piste stuff added at the end. Some of the problems are now too close to each other. Same thing happened at Potala this year with a completely changed orange circuit appearing by magic. Don't know much about local politics, but normally these things take time and a long 'period de reflexion' before any hard decisions are made on circuit changes. Nice to try some new stuff, but a lot of filler.  Feels a bit like losing an old friend.

[Fiend]

ps Contrary to appearances I do not have a leaky anus

Skimmed the rest of the post and then this line stood out, a lot 

[nik at work]

STG: Trad projects
MTG: 8c in Margalef
LTG: 9a
BHAG: Bruderliebe

M - Afternoon outside, bank holiday joy. It was stinkin' hot and windless. Too hot in the sun for steep projects and too muggy in the chasm for that project. So spent the afternoon cleaning up an easier (but filthy) new line. Probably going to end up as a pumpy but safe E6 when clean.
T - long day at work
W - BM session , pretty good.
T - evening outside on the training traverse wall. We worked a new hard start extension into the hard traverse, managed to link this into the first half of the hard traverse. The full link will be hard, especially with the new harder finish. Good session.
F - Nothing
S - Tree felling and branch shifting a.m. Afternoon outside, still stinkin' hot same problem as monday so cleaned a.n.other filthy project line next to mondays line. This will also probably end up as a slightly harder pumpy but safe E6 when clean. Also had a end of session blast on the chasm project, top-roped no probs but a couple of worrying seepage lines have appeared.
S - Morning swim in the sea with the dog, bike ride with the little lad, watching drag racing all afternoon (including the worlds fastest coin-op postman pat van ). Evening BM session, managed to hit a target of hanging each of the following mono combos for 10s:
1 - LH middle finger, RH little finger
2 - RH middle finger, LH little finger
3 - LH ring finger, RH little finger
4 - RH ring finger, LH little finger
5 - LH index finger, RH index finger
So quite happy with that.

Feeling pretty good right now, but ridiculous weather temps is ruining any project ticking aspirations. It's too warm to even work the steep lines, and whilst the chasm route is pretty dialed I'm only going to want to get on the sharp end in decent non humid sweat conditions. I'm concerned by the seepage appearing on the route, especially with the lack of rain of late, worried that it might just get wetter...

[nai]

Yellow seems to have completely changed, I didn't check all the problems, but most had been erased that I saw. The blue is pretty much the same with some off-piste stuff added at the end. Some of the problems are now too close to each other.

The blue is/was awesome but I don't have such great memories of the yellow and it was getting pretty trashed.  Tried it with the Mrs quite a bit over the last few years, do like a few at the start in the trees but then they get high and/or hard, wouldn't have argued with many of them being upgraded to orange.  Odd that they can just find a whole new set of problems in an area so popular.

[dave]

Thanks fried

10.11-10.13 Look at me !

M.  Malham with Tom. Arrived mid afternoon to everyone complaining of greasy conditions. Warm, still and very midgey. Contemplated going home. Cons x 3 F&EEE x 1. Go 1 Ground to fumbling the resting undercut new highpoint  . Go2 Fumbled horn Go 3 Got to horn and fell off going for sloper Go 4 Dabbed the horn. Tommy got close to doing Raindogs in two halves. Climbed till it was dark.
T. AM Awesome Sheffield. Guinea pig in a lactate sampling experiment. Got pumped foot-on hanging an edge, doing a route and then with a handgrip device. Pleased to onsight the route (7b (fun blue one to top of steep main wall) and then straight back on to get quarter way up to failure.       PM Labouring
W.
T. Weighed in at unbelievable 10.11.0 but felt very hungry mid morning so went to cafe for second breakfast
F. Noon Malham with Nick C. Got to crag at midday but too sunny so hung around then led Appetite for a change which was bit too pumpy then had a snooze in sun. Dogged up the Oak. Go 1 got horn but didn't latch it. Go 2 Got to horn and felt strong went out right but got sloper in wrong place. Tried to adjust to get thumb catch then do move tickled undercut but left hand slipped off sloper and skinned my knuckles. Go 3 Felt tired but climbed well and almost overcooked throw but somehow didnt hold the horn for some reason grrrr. Go 4 touched sloper and had a workout on the high redpoint crux going to and from undercut and sidepull to failure. Midge free to begin with but they came out later so glad to have bought the midge head nets yesterday. Generally cool temps. Bit disappointed but good to equal Monday's new highpoint
S. Ben's 17th. He expressed an interest in going bouldering outdoors. Went to Burbage with him and Tom in afternoon. Temps not to bad but midges were fucking awful. After warming up went on Mermaid held the sloper three times and on fourth got to top.    though have a nagging doubt I did a micro dab. We went across to the Nose which had a lower midge count. Ben and me got stuck in and Ben got really close but not quite - would have been awesome to do his first 7A on his birthday. I managed to pull it off  Dead chuffed as although I have furkled the holds in the past never tried it properly as the landing looked bad 
S More labouring - skip now full

Midges aside an awesome week. Conditions for Malham look very promising and booked to go back on Tuesday 



ps Contrary to appearances I do not have a leaky anus

Good effort doing the nose with that sequence, looks like the worst beta on it I've ever seen. Crazy strong!

[SA Chris]

Goals - etc

M bit of core work and some weights
T nowt
W bouldering session down the wall. got there at a decent hour for a change, but didn't climb very well, managed a few things though
T weights
F nowt
S swimming with LO, Legaston Quarry in afternoon, good session, 5+,6b, 6a, 6a+,6a+,6b+,6b bouldery nature of the routes (hard moves between big breaks) suited my lack of stamina. Failed badly on a 6c+ that actually needed a bit of stamina, then took a few lobs off a bouldery fingery 6c at the end of the day when I was knackered and sun was out and it was getting greasy. Annoying but also good to take a few convincing falls.
S - Not much. Park with kids, some gardening in early evening.

[ashtond6]

still no idea on goals, just keep improving. Although when I started doing this two weeks ago my MTG was set to more 7's and grit E6's & I accomplished both this week so maybe my goals need raising???

M- antag
T - fingerboard, new records on repeaters
W - bouldering indoors, onsighted some V4's, nothing of note
T - antag
F - bouldered at Rubicon for the first time... nails! did some V3s
S - fell off HVS then RP grit E6, surprisingly grippy but still a bit sweaty. Then midged to death so escaped to Stoney
S - Cheedale, first F7 there which is great progress as I've never been able to do anything there before. 6c+ in one guide so probably soft but felt as hard as most other 7a's

[ashtond6]

Just wanted to say thanks - won't be posting for a while now.

I hope you can keep posting, i for one would be interested to see how you guys are getting on!
 

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.
LTG: V11.

M: Rest
T: Sunnyside. More progress on Combat Wombat V11 and Double Demerit V14. CW still a loong way off though.
W: St Leonards. Did all of the news stuff besides the hardest prob, which I dropped off near the end 2nd go because I didn't like the hold/move. Good fingerboard session and lots of shoulder work after.
T: St Leonards. Decent climb, made up problems. Good fingerboard, campus and shoulder work after. Solid one armers on middle 2 fingers on both arms, as well as middle lower edge on BM2000 both arms. Very pleased with that!
F: Rest
S: Queens Park and 9 Degrees. QP, warmed up failing on a V5, ticked the classic Pseiker/Child Overhang V4 2nd go, nice and committing. Then jumped on Paul's Roof V9. Nearly did it 3rd go but jumped off after a spotter dab. Wish I still had gone to the top because I couldn't get that high again! Takes alot of skin though, will be back soon. Very keen to do it.
9D, circuit of a new set. Maybe 25 problems in the V2-V5 range. Flashed all bar 2, 1 I did 2nd go and the other I didn't try again.
S: St Leonards. Beasting session, big moves, made up problems, lots of campussing, lots of dynos. Abit of shoulder work after and a bit of campus board.


Paul's Roof

[T_B]

84.7Kg (lightest in 9 months)

M - School lunch. 50 mins. Campus session. Just managed 1-4-7 on right, a few times on left. 2 sets of 10 pull ups and bench presses with 30Kg.
T -
W - School p.m. 30 and 50 degree. Mainly 30. Did Pussy, Discology and Red and Hard felt steady. Decent attempt at Polish's 8A on 30 degree.
T -
F -  School lunch. 1-4-7 on both though still weirdly struggling with right. Tried 1-5-8 on right and locked but didn't let go. Then did 1-2 moves of various things on 30 and 50deg. Felt best on 50deg for ages.
S - p.m. Crag x for 4th session on The Pinch. Arrived at 6.30pm. Cool but zero wind. Changed beta for first move, using crossly pinch/gaston for left which is normally damp? This seemed to make it easier to get left foot locked in for the first move to the pinch. Struggled with slipping off holds all evening, just didn't feel like there was enough friction. Eventually got it together but dropped the last move! Gutted. Down to final goes, had a decent rest in the pitch black with lamp and head torch turned off, then next go bam bam bam, no f*ck up on the last move. Hooray! So psyched tried it again a couple of times as it felt so good not slipping on the pinch holds. Did Jericho Rd to finish then went home for a milkshake.
S -

I've done 13 problems of 7C and above this year, so on paper doing The Pinch is no big deal. But how many short Peak lime 7cs have I done? Not many is the answer. I struggle to think of a harder sequence of 5 moves that I've linked outside. I find it absolutely desperate and tenuous. Felt totally wrecked by Sunday evening, which says something about the amount of effort expended.

[tomtom]

Nice one TB.

[lagerstarfish]

MTG - A 6A+/6B this autumn/ winter would be nice

have you had a go at Chapeau Chinois at Sabot?

very nice 6B that responds well to the correct beta - and all the hard bit is low down and thus very workable

video of a very attractive fat bloke doing it available from the usual websites