[shark]

Good effort doing the nose with that sequence, looks like the worst beta on it I've ever seen. Crazy strong!

 

Getting the layaway and the crimp is straightforward with a kneebar/pad and you keep it in when you get a left toe in the pocket only releasing it as you do the pop for the good hold. Ben did it the same way. Lanking straight to the good hold looked too far though to be fair we didn't try that.

[petejh]

Effort TB.

STG: Re-hab bicep tendon, E5 slabs.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (this winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.5 years)


M. Slate. 2 x slabby 6a+s, 1 x E2/3 slab, 2 x E4 slabs.
T. Core and mobility workout. Bicep curls 3.5Kg, shoulder shrugs and shoulder press. V.floss
W. Quick couple of hours at Penmaenbach slab after work. Looked again at moves on 8a slab, felt much easier in cool connies.
T. Physio. Eccentric bicep curls with 8Kg, good exercise. Shoulder shrugs and press.
F. Eccentric curls 8Kg. V.floss.
S. Eccentric curls 8Kg.
S. Slate. 6a and an E2. Couldn't understand why I couldn't get up Kubla Khan - turns out I went the wrong way, but couldn't understand at the time why I didn't work out where to go, it isn't that hard. After a couple of hours out started felt completely exhausted and really ill. Ended up bailing to the car and slept on the back seat shivering, while A. and M. climbed. Hands down the worst climbing day I've had in recent memory.

Slept 9 hours and woke this morning feeling as if I'd been run over by a tractor and somone had syphoned my glucose reserves. Exhausted but no temperature, sore throut or headache. Weird. At least it explains why I couldn't think straight on KK.

[dave]

Good effort doing the nose with that sequence, looks like the worst beta on it I've ever seen. Crazy strong!

 

Getting the layaway and the crimp is straightforward with a kneebar/pad and you keep it in when you get a left toe in the pocket only releasing it as you do the pop for the good hold. Ben did it the same way. Lanking straight to the good hold looked too far though to be fair we didn't try that.

The way I was shown as the "shortarse beta" which is actually a lovely elegant sequence for anyone (although harder than the tall way), is to undercut out to the LH sidepull first, but not the poor lower bit you used but the slightly higher bit with the almost invisible diagonal ramp, left toe in roof pocket, right foot toehook next to your hand, then pull up to engage the toehook and pull through to the big jug boss with a RH, using the crimp as an intermediate on the way through. Then to avoid any cutloose you can do a blind toehook match on the undercut to get RF up on the right, which is again a great move.

[tomtom]

Good effort doing the nose with that sequence, looks like the worst beta on it I've ever seen. Crazy strong!

 

Getting the layaway and the crimp is straightforward with a kneebar/pad and you keep it in when you get a left toe in the pocket only releasing it as you do the pop for the good hold. Ben did it the same way. Lanking straight to the good hold looked too far though to be fair we didn't try that.

What was the strange black band around your right leg?

[shark]

The way I was shown as the "shortarse beta" which is actually a lovely elegant sequence for anyone (although harder than the tall way), is to undercut out to the LH sidepull first, but not the poor lower bit you used but the slightly higher bit with the almost invisible diagonal ramp, left toe in roof pocket, right foot toehook next to your hand, then pull up to engage the toehook and pull through to the big jug boss with a RH, using the crimp as an intermediate on the way through. Then to avoid any cutloose you can do a blind toehook match on the undercut to get RF up on the right, which is again a great move.

Makes sense. Ill have a go when I next go there with Ben and take shoes more suitable for toehooking,

What was the strange black band around your right leg?

It signifies I am a member of the dwarf batallion of the Waafen SS

[tomtom]

The way I was shown as the "shortarse beta" which is actually a lovely elegant sequence for anyone (although harder than the tall way), is to undercut out to the LH sidepull first, but not the poor lower bit you used but the slightly higher bit with the almost invisible diagonal ramp, left toe in roof pocket, right foot toehook next to your hand, then pull up to engage the toehook and pull through to the big jug boss with a RH, using the crimp as an intermediate on the way through. Then to avoid any cutloose you can do a blind toehook match on the undercut to get RF up on the right, which is again a great move.

Makes sense. Ill have a go when I next go there with Ben and take shoes more suitable for toehooking,

Lagers has made me do it that way before (it must have been national feel sorry/condescending for shortarse boulderers day or something) and I can confirm it is very pleasing and not too tricky. Not as good as reaching for the flatty if you are of normal proportions of course....

What was the strange black band around your right leg?

It signifies I am a member of the dwarf batallion of the Waafen SS

I wondered if it might have been out of respect for your limestone homies...

Speaking of which - is the turtle starting to stir in his box yet? I saw a three legged goose flying south yesterday...

[cheque]

Psyche-filled week on here- effort beasts.

STG- 100 routes at 24HHH and The Show Me State (or other 12b) on late September Arkansas trip.

MTG-   More E2s, attempt E3s (Wall of Horrors for sure), 7A+, ideally 7B this grit season.

LTG- 8a.

M- Rest.

T- Rest.

W- Foundry. 30 pitches on autobelay in 3 sets of ten. The Foundry's three autobelays are a bit too close to other lines to make major mileage on them easy and when I arrived two had insitu children. The featured walls there meant that I was able to climb totally "feet on features" alowing me to make all the routes harder. Climbed with just features for hands too for some laps which was even better.

I kind of screwed up by making each pitch too hard meaning I wasn't able to do anything like the session mileage I'd planned to be doing at this stage before 24HHH, partly due to the busyness of the wall, partly because it's turned out that I just can't face doing tens of laps of the same 5+s indoors in one session and partly because I'm confident that I've got fit enough for the event without the need to do this. Time will tell!

Th- Rest.

F- Rest.

Sa- Cheedale Cornice.  Got on Martial Music again. Felt very tough at first (I'd forgotten loads of it) but worked (and brushed) it well and it came together. Two redpoints, both of which ended dissapointingly low (above the third bolt at what I find to be the technical crux)- didn't feel confident enough; as at Kilnsey the other week I don't think I was recovered enough from the inddor mileage sessions midweek, creating a weird situation where, although I don't feel too tired and I'm not really getting pumped, I feel kind of fatigued while climbing. Ended session by typing all the moves into a text file in my phone for future reference  - this took ages but allowed me to locate the parts of the route that I'm a bit sketchy on.

Su- Cycling up and down the Monsal Trail on hired bikes. I think it's 12 miles each way. I never cycle and found the way back up (slightly uphill as opposed to slightly downhill) hard!

Less than two weeks to go now. The die is cast regarding training and depending on how dry the crags are and what type of climbing I'm psyched for on my return, my lime redpointing campaign may be over for the year. I've had a blast and exceeded my expectations so I'm pleased! 

[shark]

Speaking of which - is the turtle starting to stir in his box yet? I saw a three legged goose flying south yesterday...

Turtles don't sleep in the summer

[tomtom]

Speaking of which - is the turtle starting to stir in his box yet? I saw a three legged goose flying south yesterday...

Turtles don't sleep in the summer

Just as well I'm not involved in any calling activity... I hope Barrows has a lull in his PhD in the next few weeks. Its a critical time.

[SA Chris]

Surely Barrows' responsibility is limited to lime calling only? The grit should lie with another (the uncaller?)

[tomtom]

Surely Barrows' responsibility is limited to lime calling only? The grit should lie with another (the uncaller?)

Fuck. This is complicated.

I think we should form a committee and generate a decision support matrix.

[shark]

Surely Barrows' responsibility is limited to lime calling only? The grit should lie with another (the uncaller?)

Fuck. This is complicated.

I think we should form a committee and generate a decision support matrix.

Like the turtle (it's a tortoise BTW) you should get back in your box and wind your neck in.

It requires leadership not a committee and Alex and Adam are the chosen ones. 

[tomtom]

(Got any lettuce?)

[shark]

(Got any lettuce?)

Hands off - that's my lunch

[Nibile]

(Got any lettuce?)

Hands off - that's my lunch

Very wrong.

[shark]

(Got any lettuce?)

Hands off - that's my lunch

Very wrong.

Just kidding. I eat rabbit food (muesli) for lunch

[nai]

The way I was shown as the "shortarse beta" which is actually a lovely elegant sequence for anyone (although harder than the tall way), is to undercut out to the LH sidepull first, but not the poor lower bit you used but the slightly higher bit with the almost invisible diagonal ramp, left toe in roof pocket, right foot toehook next to your hand, then pull up to engage the toehook and pull through to the big jug boss with a RH, using the crimp as an intermediate on the way through. Then to avoid any cutloose you can do a blind toehook match on the undercut to get RF up on the right, which is again a great move.

Makes sense. Ill have a go when I next go there with Ben and take shoes more suitable for toehooking,

Like this, except at the end it's a lot less faff to just cutloose

[nai]

Barely September, the heather's still purple, midges still rampant, Christmas deccys aren't even in the shops yet but hankering after the calling has started already.  Lunacy

[Nibile]

What a cool problem! I had always wanted to do it since seeing Ben on it in Hard Grit. Brilliant.
When I did it, I was fresh from a late night flight and drive from Stansted to a friend's place in Sheffield, where we arrived at 5 in the morning.
As soon as I opened my eys and saw the sun, it was just adrenaline and we went climbing. Played a bit at Burbage North then went for The Nose. First day, I was climbing with taped pads to save skin. On the final sloper the tape started rolling and I crimped and crimped but no - I came off. And while I was sliding down I said to my friend "Take!"
 
Memorable trip: 12 days no rain. Lots of 7s. Fantastic.

[Muenchener]

Barely September, the heather's still purple, midges still rampant, Christmas deccys aren't even in the shops yet but hankering after the calling has started already.  Lunacy

But I had my first incident of being unable to finish a limestone route because of numb fingers yesterday in an entirely different country

[lagerstarfish]

What was the strange black band around your right leg?

It signifies I am a member of the dwarf batallion of the Waafen SS

it signifies he is a member of the Owsla of Efrafa - and thus explains his love of rabit food

[fried]

MTG - A 6A+/6B this autumn/ winter would be nice

have you had a go at Chapeau Chinois at Sabot?

very nice 6B that responds well to the correct beta - and all the hard bit is low down and thus very workable

video of a very attractive fat bloke doing it available from the usual websites

Not my style I'm afraid, I've never even put a hand on it despite walking past it hundreds of times...I always have the impression that it needs a spotter and some extra padding. Although maybe these things hold their grade more than slabs and fingery walls. Hope you're taking your camera with you at Easter

[lagerstarfish]

I wear my extra padding under my skin

CC isn't as brutal as it looks, feet actually help

[fried]

You'll have to repeat it next time from the correct start 

[the_dom]

MTG - A 6A+/6B this autumn/ winter would be nice

have you had a go at Chapeau Chinois at Sabot?

very nice 6B that responds well to the correct beta - and all the hard bit is low down and thus very workable

video of a very attractive fat bloke doing it available from the usual websites

I'll second that - it's brilliant and far easier than it looks..