[tomtom]

M:

Tu: Woodwell. Got stuck into Sanctified - which went after about 30-40 min. Tricky bunched moves for me at the start and its interesting to see it getting higher grades than the 6B+ it gets in the topo (post hold break..). Then started working the 7A+ Sanctified strong.. Now, according to the topo it involves doing it normally (LH up to pinch) then crossing through with the RH up for the jug (a hard move) that I could do dynamically - and hold the hold, but not the swing. Is this the normal way, or is there some body tension/cunning footwork solutions to keeping it all together? Anyway, I wasn't feeling the force that day, so headed off back just as it started raining..

We: Hull, work - football in the evening - pint and one of the largest fish and chips I've eaten in ages.. last min winner. Excellent.

Th: Heading back to Manchester via the Peak and Conies Dale. I went there last 2-3 years back, when it had first been publicised - and got shut down on everything I tried... but climbing better, I was hopeful of more success.

Managed the 7A's of Conie Yeboah, Touttes, Lamiche and Lamprecht.. the last with a I'm knackered just one more go last gasp effort of the day. Excellent



Several beers and a bottle of wine that evening.. hic...

Fr: Nothing (see above )

Sa: Day trip to London to watch Charlton Hull with the brother in law who is a season ticket holder. Great day - but we lost. Ate rubbish including a dirty dirty cheeseburger...

Su: Quick trip to Helsby that was barely serviceable.. just needed an hour to try and keep myself in. Hoping to get out on Monday...

Weight stable at 11stn 1-2.....

[fried]

Sounds like a good week 

STG - Get from 76.8kg down to 74.5kg by the end of September.
MTG - A 6A+/6B this autumn/ winter would be nice, but I'll happily settle for a sackfull of 5+/6A stuff in a variety of styles.
LTG - 7A by 50 ( 6 years to go)

M - W - The 3 coolest days of the summer and I'm sitting around a pool in the south of France idly wishing I was in the forest. Eat and drink too much. Get fat.

Th - Drive back to Paris
F - Finish painting the flat (almost)
Sa - Escape for the morning and go to Rocher de la cathedral to find a bit of shade as it's going to be a hot one. I haven't been here for years, and the plan is to do the orange circuit and look at a couple of harder things on the way. I now remember why I haven't been here for years; it's scrittly/ mossy/ dirty, and I don't have a brush. I'm not in the mood today, and my crash-pad is a cumbersome burden. I do about five orange problems, but the hardest thing is lugging the pad around.

I decide to relocate to Diplodocus which isn't my favourite place, but is close. Do a mixture of blues/ oranges/ yellows that are a bit shaded. Good fun, but far too hot (30° by the early afternoon). Have a look at a slab problem http://bleau.info/diplodocus/14766.html in a liitle area near Diplodocus but it's one for another day, seems really hard too.

Su - Last bit of painting/ tidying up which takes all day.

Cooler weather next week, time to get ready for the autumn.

[Muenchener]

STG:  Do a decent route in the Kaisergebirge
MTG (2015): redpoint two more 7a’s and a 7a+
LTG (2016/2017): Redpoint 7b (Sautanz)

Successful trip to Kaisergebirge with occasional ukb'er lmarenzi
 
M-W: UK family holiday; camping on South Downs, HMS Victory etc. at Portsmouth with M jnr
T: Drive home Calais-München
F: Kaisergebirge: hike up to Stripsenjoch hut. Three minutes faster than last year's best time for this; good considering I have done much less aerobic training this year.
S: Kaisergebirge. Kirchl Express on the Totenkirchl. This is a worthwhile route in its own right, but was also a bit of a dry run for the Dülfer: it's about as long (20 pitches), but a little easier, more escapable and fully bolted. Went smoothly and in reasonable time - we even had the novel experience for me of being stuck behind a slower team. Was also a chance to check out the descent; the descent is heinous. Made it back to the hut in time for dinner, but only just.
S: Kaisergebirge. Tired. Did the aptly named Plaisir, a three pitch bolted route up a steep crack on humungo jugs, great fun, then strolled down the hill to a pub lunch and home.

[the_dom]

A heavy week after the previous weekend of gluttony and sloth..

Mon: Deadlifts at lunch (5 sets of 2 reps at 150kgs), bouldering and hangboard in the evening
Tues: Rowing machine intervals and treadmill. Really tough.
Wed: Hangboard (CWP) before work, deadlifts at lunch (6 sets of 5 reps @ 130kgs). Work-related drinking in the evening.
Thurs: Solid hangboard session after work
Fri: Treadmill at lunch, hangboard (one arm max hangs) in the evening.
Sat: Bouldering - came close to a desperate 7C+. Surprised. One arm max hangs post-session. Wine and curry. And chocolate tart. And more wine.
Sun: Have felt better. REscued the day with a short hangboard session and a solid kettlebell session - 10 rounds of 25 swings and 4 turkish getups, with a 24kg kettlebell, in 30 mins. Hard work.

[nai]

Effort Tom & Muench.

STG - going to concentrate on Roof Warrior (if it's still dry) and Body Machine come September
MTG - bit of bouldering and start to develop killer endurance over winter
LTG Put killer endurance to good use next Spring

M - 2nd day shuffling slowly around London, come home with a cold, dirty Southern bastards.

T - Manage to warm up and do a few max hangs - pretty sub maximal

W - foot-on campusing x  8 1:20 reps - ok

th rest

F - feel a bit better - max hangs - much better

S  - foot-on campusing x  8 1:20 reps - good

S - slow 5km run - mistake

Hoped for a harder week but had to stick to stuff that doesn't completely wipe me out, not too bad in the circumstances.  Another week and half of school holiday to endure then normal service is resumed.

[nik at work]

STG trad projects
MTG 8c in Margalef
LTG 9a
BHAG Bruderliebe

Work, weather, family conspired to limit activity this week...

M - nothing
T - BM session. Random session heavily weighted towards one arm hang stuff. managed to slip out of one of the mono's with my left hand. Pretty good session.
W - woke up to find large bruise on pad of left middle finger, luckily completely pain free. Spent the evening editing some shit video of project top-roping/failing and training traverse traversing, stuck it on Vimeo so here it is (but don't bother watching it unless you have a very empty life):

T - meant to get out in the evening, weather looked poor but was desperate to get out so tried it anyway. The rain poured and I ended up drinking coffee and eating cake in a cafe enjoying the (bleak) view accorss the sea.
F - nothing
S - working in the morning, then family day out to a motor museum.
S - Early doors swim in the sea with the dog. The cycle down to the beach with the youngest and his bike in the bike trailer, he goes for a ride along the prom, then I cycled back home. Then afternoon climbing, tried the first half of the steep project, got half a move closer to doing it (if you watched the above video (why??) then the line is to the left of the line of Doug's project, i.e. a bit closer to the camera, you can't make out any of the holds so this is pointless information...). Considering the hot humid conditions I was pretty happy with progress, also the set up moves are getting more solid. Good session. Then decided to walk home with the dog rather than get a lift with Doug. 2 hours later, a mere 20 minutes from the house, the heavens opened and I had no coat. Soaked to the skin.

This week has been busy at work and complex kid care arrangements coupled with pretty shit weather has meant not enough getting done. Did a maintenance amount of climbing/training but need to push on, only just over two months to Margalef now, need become a dirty strong PE monster.

(Sorry about the video)

[nik at work]

Oh yeah nice one Tom and Muench

Back in the game the_dom

[tomtom]

Nice to see the film Nik, puts your posts (and projects) in a better context than my imagination

[kelvin]

Nice film Nik

Lots of work on the van and sorting life shizzle, this week meant no training at all.

Fri - Work and drinkin'
Sat - Wedding (No drinking but late finish)
Sun - Masson Lees. Physio managed some more 6as and her son did his first outdoor leads and generally had a laugh with the people about.

Mates went to WCJ cornice today but I'd already made plans but have just sorted to get back on Incapacity on Friday. More van stuff till then however.
Noticable today that all my stamina had left the building, all this bouldering on a rope has done for it but I'm feeling a lot stronger, trusting my feet totally and I can pick up some endurance during Oct when we're on the road.

I'd normally be a bit embarrassed to post this week but the van and life is priority for the next five weeks... then I can seriously focus on the climbing.

[T_B]

86.3Kg

M -
T - Pembroke, Barrel Zawn DWS. Did the trav and most of the ups to 7a. Hot in the sun. Cool venue.
W - Swam 250m
T -
F -
S - School p.m. After more than 2 weeks effectively off, I was expecting it to be painful... and it was. Actually, not that bad - didn't feel too heavy, just weak in the fingers and core. Useless on the 50 degree. Mainly worked on the pink circuit until skin was screaming in the heat.
S -

Back to School (room) this week after two week holiday. Need to shed some holiday lard. Aim to boulder/campus for a couple of weeks in the hope that the limestone bouldering venues stay dry into September and we get some cooler temps. Light is the problem, will need to get lamp out.

[fatneck]

Sun - did back in going down on the wife...
Mon - back sore but surprisingly decent Hangar sesh with the wife in the evening.
Tue - work and travel to holiday - back sore but not stopping me doing anything
Wed - family stuff, fun 4 mile walk with picnic etc too much food and wine
Thurs - woke up early to go fishing - back in bad bulk - managed to fish successfully (think standing waist deep in a cool reservoir helped) but by the time I got home I was in pretty bad pain. Took loads of painkillers and went gingerly to Sunnybrow boulders where I managed some easy bimbles and the munchkin crushed hard!
Fri - back still screwed - pottering and walks - beer
Sat - Swimming in the am and fishing - back still bad but fishing seemed to help!
Sun - travel home via Brimham where unsurprisingly the rest of the world had decided to go so no parking. Ended up enjoying the sunshine and feeling like a bad parent lying on the grass while wife played football with the lad at the very beautiful Pateley Bridge.

Another week spent mostly on holiday with the added downside of a screwed back although finally feeling a bit better and looking forward to hitting some Lancs grit today...

[lagerstarfish]

Aim - get the body moving without overdoing it

M- everything still hurting from Saturday's efforts on rock - 5 sets of 5 foot on pull ups - forearms screeming
Tu - 5 sets 5 foot on pull ups plus some press ups
W - 3 sets of 10 foot on pull ups plus 3 sets 10 press ups
Th - easy moves on vertical wood
F - unstructured easy hanging off beastmaker
Sa - a few easy moves on 20 deg wood - physical DIY
Su - easy moves on 20 deg wood and high stepping on vertical wood

it's a start

[petejh]

STG: Pain-free: Lift and pour kettle. Put on/take off jacket. 1.25Kg dumbell curl. 2.5Kg dumbell curl. 5Kg dumbell curl. E5 slabs.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (this winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.5 years)


M. Diamond. Furnce-like conditons. 3 burns up the shining - 2 working goes and a redders without knowing the upper half. Sweaty as hell until the sun went in, last go the best.
T. Diamond, 100% mint condtions. 2 bolt-bolts to try to work out how to make the run-out mid-height crux clip. Couldn't work out a way, so decided to just trust that a bit of adrenaline would help me work it out on the lead. Gave it a good redders attempt and, as predicted, the got through crux and worked out how to make made the clip from a powerful gaston/iron-cross postion.. and then fell off the easier bit above that I hadn't looked at. Got down and realised I'd badly aggravated the tweaked bicep longhead tendon. Go home and sulk.
W. Massage and sulk.
T. Core, mobility and sulk.
F. Sulk. Start bicep tendon rehab exercises - dumbell curls, pressups, shoulder press, therabanding - a set before and a set after  V.flossing
S. Sulk. Aborted slate slab climbing due to rain. Lifted and poured kettle, boom! Put on and take off jacket, boom! Rehab exercises.
S. Rehab exercises. Dumbell curl with 1.25Kg, tick. Boosh! Sulk.

End of the sport season for me, OK year level-wise with a first at the grade, but not much volume to show for it. I'll take that every now and again but not every year. First proper year back following surgery and then book-related exhaustion lay-off last year, fairly pleased with the results of focussed periodisation training and know it's realistic to climb 8b+ and quickly climb 8a now, which is a step up from a few years ago.

Some e5 slabs would be a nice way to round off the summer before winter training begins.

[Nibile]

Tue - shoulder rehab; pull ups, dumbbell complex, abs x2; pyramid power cleans. 
Wed - shoulder rehab; face pulls, glute ham raises x2.
Thu - one foot bouldering + 7/8 kg; kettlebell swings, overhead barbell walk x2.
Fri - shoulder rehab; barbell complex, frog jumps, farmer's walk x1,5. Tired, not enough rest from previous session. Friend's wedding: lots of food, lots of alcohol.
Sat - jumps, triceps, 2 mins dumbbell complex, glute ham raises x2; hill sprint s x6. Proud session after the night  on the booze. Sessions like this prove that I have a steel will.
Sun - nothing.

Good week all in all. Especially happy about the weighted one footed bouldering, I've added one kilo to the first problem and two kilos for the second and I consistently dispatch. Strong mind in strong body. Shoulder on the mend. Shame about the one armers, hopefully one day I'll go back to them.
Bring the board season.

[SA Chris]

STG - lose weight get strong

MTG - traverse project

new LTG - Get in shape for Winter Bouldering League

M- FA worked in evening
T - FA worked in evening
W - short bouldering session at wall, felt knackered but had a reasonable session
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - Swimming in morning, bouldered outside in afternoon. It was a bit hot and greasy, but repeated a few problems, did a new eliminate line at about 6b/c. Got nowhere on traverse, crux sloper unholdable in warmth. Think I'll need to recruit a spotter with an extra pad to avoid the risk of spannering myself if I fall off the crux.

[Three Nine]

Sat - jumps, triceps, 2 mins dumbbell complex, glute ham raises x2; hill sprint s x6. Proud session after the night  on the booze. Sessions like this prove that I have a steel will.

Clearly not, or you would have avoided the booze in the first place. You have a polystyrene will.

[tommytwotone]

Back in as I've finally got back doing regular exercise after weeks of illness / holiday.


STG: eat more sensibly, cut out sugary fizzy drinks and snacks at work, limit booze consumption to couple of nights a week
LTG: back to regularly doing 7s, ideally Font 7b


M: Travel back from East Anglia.
T: Back to work, 50 min HIIT class at gym on lunch, very hard.
W: 50 min HIIT class on lunch, even harder!
T: first outdoor session in ages after work - muggy and humid so went to Almscliff. Didn't do much apart from the usual circuit but felt great to be out. Managed a sloppy repeat of Dolphin Belly Slap in my currently more rotund shape so can't be all that out of shape!
F: Rest.
S: Took Una to the wall for first time but not much interest in climbing from her...I managed about 3 deadhangs and a couple of moves on the steep board.
S: All day working on house including taming massive hedge in front garden. A pretty good workout in warm, claggy weather.


Good to get active again after nearly 3 weeks of holidays eating and drinking irresponsibly. Also made a decent job of eating more sensibly - have substituted by lunchtime can of Coke for fizzy mineral water and the various sweets / chocs / cakes round the office for fruit from the communal bowl.

[ashtond6]

I really have no idea on my goals at the minute... I am unsure if I find 'working routes' fun

STG / MTG / LTG - hit physio hard and control ongoing injuries 

M - Rest/physio
T - Rest/physio
W - 7b 4th go, V5 onsight
T - Rest/physio
F - Bouldering @ Forest Rock, absolutely nails for me! Hardest V2/3 I've ever done - squeeze chimney! so frustrating as it took me ages, but really enjoyed it when I finished it :-)
S - Masson Lees, onsighted 6c, top roped 7a+ which felt nails in the extremely greasy conditions
S - giant hangover 

on a positive note, I've been hitting my antag exercises hard & they are working wonders :-) also, voodoo flossing has begun

[kelvin]

I am unsure if I find 'working routes' fun

A suggestion that's worked for me - try something much harder, something you almost feel you have almost no right to be on. Something harder than you've done before and then there won't be that little voice in the back of your head saying "I should be able to do this". If that voice is there, I find it just leads to frustration. I'm loving getting on daft hard for me at the minute and every sequence I pull out of the bag or finally unlock gives the best feeling ever, even if it is four bolts from the top 

... and something you probs don't wanna hear mate but you know I've gotta say it and it's well meaning - half the fun in working routes is taking falls when you're well above your gear. It'll never be fun if falls bring about stress.

Nice work on the 6c onsight - which one?

[ashtond6]

that's a great idea! its true im not enjoying it because I think I should be doing these first time
was well chuffed to get an indoor 7b!

the layaway one to the left of the warm up 6a's

[Nibile]

Sat - jumps, triceps, 2 mins dumbbell complex, glute ham raises x2; hill sprint s x6. Proud session after the night  on the booze. Sessions like this prove that I have a steel will.

Clearly not, or you would have avoided the booze in the first place. You have a polystyrene will.

Who said that I wanted to avoid the booze? I wanted to drink vodka and tonic until 4 am and that's exactly what I did. Steel will as I said. 
Anyway, here's the finisher:

[mr chaz]

STG Rock Atrocity
LTG 8A 8b

M. and T. Headed to North Wales for 2 days. Started at the cave. Disappointed to not finish off Rock Atrocity this time, 3rd session on it and it just feels so easy but I'm not executing when it matters. Feeling spent and low headed off to the Pass for the rest of the afternoon evening. Managed to see off Ultimate Retro Party, which I'd tried a couple of years ago. Planned to look at Tusk/Cross Therapy the next day. Went over but it was way too hot, poor venue choice, so dragged my arse up Elephantitus and headed home. I've bought myself a Mobius action cam now that I'm doing quite a lot of solo bouldering sessions... so here's a vid  :



W. Wall session. Too tired and sore, should've rested!
T.
F. Wall session. Max hangs with fixed sling (CWP). Antagonist exercises and press-ups.
S.
S.

[abarro81]

Pull with your right knee on that move, not with your arm.

[Sasquatch]

STG-project 2(8a-ish), plus a couple of 8a/+ boulder projects.
MTG- project 1 (8b+/c-ish)
LTG- to bolt or not to be

m-FB-small crimps, shoulder rehab
t-ARC, boulder, 30min Cardio, shoulder rehab
w-shoulder rehab
t-Boulder-up to v7/8, all either repeats or flashes of new stuff, shoulder rehab
f-s Camping with Family.  Lots of walking, eating and drinking.  Not good for weight or fitness.

After what I thought was a better week, the shoulder went downhill.  Starting to feel better again, but I definitely have to get it sorted out. 

FB seems ok, but no dynamic movement. 

Fatneck - Hope your back gets better.  Remember to always use protection.

[tomtom]

Fatneck - Hope your back gets better.  Remember to always use protection.

Theres probably a yoga position (or two) that will prevent a repeat injury :D

Keep the faith Sasq...