[Graeme]

Where is it? I've been a couple  of times and not found it, am I just being lazy or plain thick?

[Jim]

if your at the tank look directly uphill and walk 1/2 to 2/3rds of the way towards the crag and you'll be there. on the right there's a good arete a groove up the middle and a dyno from shit crimps. Round the side there's a right to left rising traverse a short arete problem, dense's problem and a traverse along the back

[dobbin]

You know that Groove up the middle? (about 6c from standing) has anyone done the sitter? I think it would go.

[a dense loner]

font 6c? or english?

[cofe]

font 6c? or english?

shouldn't you know! or at least be able to make an :cough: educated guess?

old man of wimberry my arse..........

[a dense loner]

i am asking someone else's opinion of the grade for my grade table, this has to be done since all i get is broken promises from the sheffield crew about them coming over. "oh it's so good, it's amazing, we'll come over more often, but wait i have to do the nose at burbage one more time, maybe next year" :shock:

[Jim]

the groove is V5/6 from standing, V7 if your too short to reach the bottom of the groove from standing as you have to do a hardish move into it IMHO. The sitter is going to be nails but keep quiet about it

[a dense loner]

cheers for your contribution jim, as if i don't know it. i was asking somebody who i've never met before for his grade of the prob before anyone else offered one. n the start from the 2 crimps is harder than v7. well it's font 7b anyway, n i take it you meant the normal start was 6c+ or 7a? :wink:

[Jim]

yeah, easy 7a/6c+ for normal start. just remembered that I didn't do lower start so can't comment really  

[a dense loner]

don't worry i would have reminded u :D

[dave]

i thought the groove from standing was about font 6bish, or something like that, i flashed it and it was deffo easier than the arete from standing, which is about 6c. both superb innit.

[a dense loner]

i think they're the same grade. groove maybe bit harder cos more shouldery if you're not tall, cos you have to stand out on the boulder

[dobbin]

I meant font 6c. Not very good at grading stuff sub 7 so 6b/6b+ could also be fair, plus it was velly velly sweaty when I went last week.

[Jim]

I find the move very shouldery off the floor. can see why tall people piss it tho

[Johnny Brown]

I find that first move grim due to the stretch - initiating such a powerful move with totally straight arms is never gonna be fun. I can see how being a gangly walkley's-answer-to-westwood would make it easy tho.

[mark]

I thought the groove was considerably easier than the arete. Flashed the groove but took many goes to do the arete.  Not great conditions which maybe made more difference on the arete than it did on the groove but I reckon the arete is 1.5 V-grades harder than the groove. What the actual grades are I'm not going to guess!

[dave]

what the most common way of doing t'arete then? i did it by pulling on one hand on wank in groove, one of good bit right of arete, right heel on and go with right for top. is this the standard way?

[mark]

what the most common way of doing t'arete then? i did it by pulling on one hand on wank in groove, one of good bit right of arete, right heel on and go with right for top. is this the standard way?

Tried that way but was well short of the top. I did the same as you to get into the position in that picture then I had to slap right hand up again, put right toe on the arete and jump up to the top with my left hand.

[dave]

that sounds savage!

[a dense loner]

u actually used that huge pocket for your right hand to start from? that tell's a story :wink:
i put left hand on crimp type thing, right hand on arete, left foot on, right out, left hand into groove undercut type right to sloper above your pocket, right toe high n pop with left. conversely sometimes i do do it "your" way, without the pocket, but it strains the tummy somewhat. i don't use the pocket cos when you go from the sitter it's easier not to, unless of course you want to take part in the donkey line hall of shame :wink: that n it's pretty awkward to catch

[dave]

:shock:

[a dense loner]

it reads harder than it is tho

[Jim]

Where is it? I've been a couple  of times and not found it, am I just being lazy or plain thick?

did you ever get up there then? what did you think?

[Graeme]

Not had chance to go yet, I've been moving house so I've been a bit preoccupied with sorting out boxes and trying to get fit by running, s'ppose walking up that hill a few times will do that though.

When I do go I'll post something proclaiming everything to be massively undergraded and denying the fact that I'm shit.

[r-man]

Had a quick visit to Wimberry today and checked out the fish boulder. Didn't really try the harder problems cos of an injury, but that arete you were all talking about looks excellent. Gave it a brief go and will definitely be back when my arm is better.

Did a couple of nice problems that no-one else is mentioning (maybe cos they aren't that hard). But the arete to the left of the one you were talking about was a fun rockover. V3/4 maybe.  And the arete on the opposite side of the boulder was good fun from a sit-start, slapping left hand up and rocking over onto the slab to finish. V4/5?

Thought they were both pretty decent problems, what does everyone else think? Do they have names?

And now my arm hurts again. Bastard injury. But a nice little boulder. Much better than the stuff lower down.