[SA Chris]

Mrs has started doing triathlons too. To knock fifteen minute off her cycle time from the first one she did, I'm training her on how to put a chain back on when it gets stuck in your front derailleur.

[ashtond6]

Right, first post!  Can anyone explain the timings on LT MT & ST goals?

Here we go... bit nervous about having laughable goals... after very recently achieving a huge LTG (that I got into climbing to achieve!) my goals are a little grey 

STG - Consolidate at 6c-7a+ without getting too injured. Antag exercises at least 4 times a week
MTF - Redpoint 7b/7b+ Headpoint E6***
LTG - E5 onsight. RP 7c/8a....? Not sure if this is possible in the next 2/3 years with injuries, but maybe 8-10?

M - Rest (family time)
T - Short hangboard session - stopped because it hurt
W - hangboard session with feet on
T - Rest (tennis elbow exercises)
F - Rest (tennis elbow exercises)
S - Dropped last move of 6c+ onsight at Masson Lees, easy second go. Also very close to Hilti 7a second go, very painful on final crimp before chains so I stopped for the dat(in my palm & forearm)
S - Smalldale, wanted to take it easy due to sore arm, 3 6c's, frustratingly dropped last move from the jugs by the chains. Won't be back though, not a nice crag

Strangely my arm is now feeling a bit better!


*** editing after reading posts below

[kelvin]

Right, first post!  Can anyone explain the timings on LT MT & ST goals?

Here we go... bit nervous about having laughable goals... after very recently achieving a huge LTG (that I got into climbing to achieve!) my goals are a little grey 

I thought you'd have sorted this by now!  I'd best fix this for you...
 
STG - More mono pullups than me
MTG - Foot on campus harder than me
LTG-  E8 8a and 8A

Anyways, welcome to power club.

*have you read the voodoo flossing thread - it really might be worth a go on that injury of your's?

[nai]

Right, first post!  Can anyone explain the timings on LT MT & ST goals?

Different for everyone I think but for me it breaks down as current block, next block or two, beyond that. With a block being each 3-4 month period that my year breaks down into.

[SA Chris]

for me STG - this month MTG - next month LTG - sometime

[andy_e]

STG - I should probably get around to doing that soon.
MTG - I'll probably think about doing that once I've done the STG.
LTG - Probably unrealistic, but I'll put one down so that Nik doesn't get grumpy.

[ashtond6]

Right, first post!  Can anyone explain the timings on LT MT & ST goals?

Here we go... bit nervous about having laughable goals... after very recently achieving a huge LTG (that I got into climbing to achieve!) my goals are a little grey 

I thought you'd have sorted this by now!  I'd best fix this for you...
 
STG - More mono pullups than me
MTG - Foot on campus harder than me
LTG-  E8 8a and 8A

Anyways, welcome to power club.

*have you read the voodoo flossing thread - it really might be worth a go on that injury of your's?

hahaha! Maybe at my LTG level I can do more mono pullups than you
Drop E8 to E7 & 8A to 7B/+ maybe  can't see me ever wanting to climb 8A, except maybe Careless Torque which is a stunner

Lots of theraband ordered!!

[kelvin]

can't see me ever wanting to climb 8A, except maybe Careless Torque which is a stunner

You've not been to Font yet...

[nai]

can't see me ever wanting to climb 8A, except maybe Careless Torque which is a stunner

You've not been to Font yet...

Or pinches wall.

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[ashtond6]

can't see me ever wanting to climb 8A, except maybe Careless Torque which is a stunner

You've not been to Font yet...

Or pinches wall.

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

Brilliant! 

[Luke Owens]

Sticking to the mileage in prep for Ceuse trip next month.

M: 30 mins AeroCap

T: Llanymynech - 6c warm up repeat on "Crab Stick". Then on-sighted "Ship Dip" (6c+), a great route climbing wise but truly harrowing to lead. Seriously run out on the hard moves. I could of decked in at least 5 places. Then to make things even more fun 2/3's of the way up 2 of the bolts looked completely corroded and knackered, wouldn't of fancied a fall on them. Felt at least 7a to me but the fear probably made it seem harder.

Warmed down with 6b and 2 x 6b+ repeats.

W: Rest

T: 20 mins Aerocap and Antags/Stretching - Evening swimming with little one.

F: Took our son to the climbing wall for the first time. Very proud moment for me! 

He's almost 3 so doesn't have the biggest attention span, but he enjoyed it. Putting his favorite teddy on a high hold on the bouldering wall seemed to do the trick. Anyone got any tips on how to get him used to the rope? He wasn't too psyched for it, got him a decent petzl harness.

Pretty disappointed with the kids wall at the Boardroom though. No really easy juggy stuff. All not so great, spaced holds. Not too happy with having to pay £10 to get the little one in either and then £6 every time I want to take him again, hardly encouraging kids to climb is it?

S: Orme - Did "Gateau Blaster" (6a/+) a DWS in Gateau Zawn first thing in the morning. Absolutely freezing, wouldn't of wanted to fall in! Ace route.

St Tudnos Lower - Went to check out some adventurous (spaced bolts) ~30m sport routes in an awesome location high above the sea. Did 2x 6a+, 2x 6b and 6c. Good mileage.

S: Rest

[SA Chris]

He's almost 3 so doesn't have the biggest attention span, but he enjoyed it. Putting his favorite teddy on a high hold on the bouldering wall seemed to do the trick. Anyone got any tips on how to get him used to the rope? He wasn't too psyched for it, got him a decent petzl harness.

Build up to it - first get to one hold, then lower off, next time try for next hold, etc etc. Our son like "sideways climbing" the best. No need to worry about height like bouldering or climbing and the holds on the traversing wall are massive.

[lagerstarfish]

Anyone got any tips on how to get him used to the rope?

let him mess about (you pushing) using a rope and harness as a giant swing for an hour or so

[nik at work]

 

STG - I should probably get around to doing that soon.
MTG - I'll probably think about doing that once I've done the STG.
LTG - Probably unrealistic, but I'll put one down so that Nik doesn't get grumpy.

Waste of effort, I'm always grumpy.

[fatneck]

Not too happy with having to pay £10 to get the little one in either and then £6 every time I want to take him again, hardly encouraging kids to climb is it?

Sheesh!! My missus complained at the Hangar that it was full price for kidlets some time ago and they've dropped it to £3 for the little hangar and £4 if you want to use the rest of the wall and £1 for shoes and no joining fee. To be honest the £10 joining fee is the main reason I've never climbed at the Boardroom despite the fact that it's not that far away...

[nai]

He's almost 3 so doesn't have the biggest attention span, but he enjoyed it. Putting his favorite teddy on a high hold on the bouldering wall seemed to do the trick. Anyone got any tips on how to get him used to the rope? He wasn't too psyched for it, got him a decent petzl harness.

Not what you asked i know but I decided not to put mine on a rope, but rather to take them bouldering where I can help them more easily and hopefully they'll develop movement skills and technique which will give them confidence when they do get on a rope.


Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[SA Chris]

Ours prefers climbing on around and under outdoor boulders too. Really good one on the beach near us, steep and juggy on one side, more slabby and featured on the other. And has an enormous rusty mooring ring embedded in it, which is a good diversion to swing from.

At the climbing wall here kids under 5 are (or were) free. I find even slightly slabbier walls with smaller holds are easier for them to climb than vertical ones with bigger holds.

[webbo]

My daughter preferred being on a rope when she was 4ish, she spent alot of time shouting" Pull Dad " so she could be pulled to the top of the wall and be lowered down. Or I would have to climb half way up the very overhanging lead wall lower down, tie her in pull her up 10 foot. Then she would swing around, she found all this more enjoyable than climbing at that age.

[Nibile]

Hard week, little training and lots of low quality food and alcool.
Mon - shoulder rehab; bouldering; 2 mins farmer's walk x2.
Tue - shoulder rehab; barbell complex, glute bridge x2; hill sprints x6.

The rest of the week was spent moving hundreds of cases of water and wine.
Quite happy about the sprints. Didn't feel sparky on the board but I tried a longstanding project that is really really hard.
Finally temps dropped under 30 degrees. 28 today.
Shoulder is doing jot bad, I'll probably have to start doing something new because healing stalled a bit but it could be due to lack of excercise, sleep, good eating habits and water.
Despite all, I'm still amazing in front of the mirror. And the mirror never lies. Kind of.

[mr chaz]

STG Rock Atrocity
MTG More 7Cs and 8as
LTG 8A 8b

M. Interview. Went really well (didn't get it, but was a very close second apparently and it might not be a closed door just yet...).
T. Churnet session. Went to have a look at the Discreet Block and give The Mentalist 7C a go. Did Propeller Head 7A first in a couple of tries. Then got on Mentalist. Painful!! 30mins and 5/6 goes and I couldn't take the pain no more. One move in particular was causing problems, moving the foot round the lip - heel onto the pebble. Could get it close to the pebble but not close enough, need a little more flexibility in the hips maybe! Also tried Bizarre 7B. Could do it all except the final slap (which is half the problem  ), not even in isolation - ah well.
W. Wall session, Boulder Central.
T. Wall session, power endurance.
F.
S.
S.

[JackAus]

Late in the week. Been busy...

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.
LTG: V11.

M: Rest. Night shift Sunday night...
T: Day work. St Leonards. New stuff up to V5/6. Usual made problems up. Abit of campussing, no fingerboard because wrist/finger is still iffy but plenty of shoulder work after.
W: Trenches. Lovely sandbagged crag. Stuff up to V5 and bailed off the top of a great V6. Great underrated crag. Night shift.
T: Crumbly. Warmed up repeating a V6, then got back on Sushi Train V8. Still can't work out how to do the top. Had a play on Life Changes V11. Got all moves bar 2 (its long) but I really don't like it. I find its ugly holds with ugly moves. Night shift
F: Rest.
S: Frontline & Crumbly. Frontline first thing in the AM. Rocket Man felt horrible, was spooging off everything. Repeated Low Down Boogie V8 2nd go. 3 attempts on Paratroopin V7, I should be able to do this, I don't know why I can't. Got my hand over the side pull every time... I just want it done and out the way...
Night session at Crumbly. Repeated V6 first go, usually takes me 2/3. Worked out abit more of the top on Sushi Train V8 but other than that, had a pretty shit session. Delicious Thai after though so that was good.
S: St Leonards. Arvo beasting session. Finally did my campus problem across the finger/campus boards. Been trying that for like 6 months. Alot of making up problems, some pretty tough! Finished off a few others that I had made but hadn't done yet too. Good session.

Low Down Boogie V8

[andy_e]

Looks a tad dangerous, following someone that close behind! I bet it was embarrassing all turning up at the crag wearing the same thing.

[JackAus]

Team ascent. Only way I can get up things...

[andy_e]

Yeah, the guy topping out is definitely standing on the head of the guy doing the press move!

[JackAus]

Does that count as a dab?