[abarro81]

Someone on the other channel said that they've recently tried this and got good feeling results with it (for a collateral injury). Will google more about it later but anyone on here experimented with it before?
http://www.hcrbeta.com/climbers-should-experiment-with-voodoo-flossing/

[SA Chris]

My yoga teacher mentioned this to me when we were talking about my tennis elbow a few months back, so automatically dismissed it as bunkum.

[petejh]

Gary Reinl is the trainer of trainers.

Who is the trainer of Gary Reinl?!


Sounds interesting, hope I don't need it.

[SA Chris]

It means he trains athletic footwear.

[Nibile]

Gary Reinl is the trainer of trainers.

Who is the trainer of Gary Reinl?!

It is obviously Chuck Norris.

[jwi]

I once heard the well-known dreaded tearing noise from my finger as I was crimping my way up a route. The finger swelled at the knuckle and I was in pain. Two days later I was going on a short trip to Hell in Norway, and was well psyched for that.

In my desperation I did the fuck-it-lets-deny-it™ treatment of my finger, and arrived in Hell two days later with a slightly less swollen finger.

I ate a bunch of paracetamol and climbed as hard as I could for the whole weekend. My finger got better and better over the days. A week later there was no swelling and no pain. Now 10 years later I've never had any problem in that joint or even that finger since.

True story.

Don't come with any annoying comments about anecdotes, sample size, alternative treatments, initial misdiagnosis, or any of that stupid science shit.

I've got voodoo.

[2 Tru]

Yeah that was me on UKC, my name is Rob.

It has a stupid name, you can buy overpriced products to perform it and my N=1 but it bloody well fixed a two year old injury in 2 days so go figure 

I pulled/ tore the collateral ligament in my middle finger dynoing for a hold at the castle. Did I see a physio? nope Did I rest it? nope Did I do any rehab? Nope.

It felt fine to climb on unless it was knocked sideways. I even took two months off climbing during a stressful house purchase and when I got back into climbing it strangely got worse swelling up after every climbing session.

I had a coaching session with Robin o'Leary a couple of weeks ago and he told me if I wanted it to get better I would have to do something active to resolve it. Robin suggested squeezing a ball between my injured figures, this seemed to help and may have worked eventually but the problem remained.

I then found the video Barrows attached, cut a strip of rubber off a theraband and wrapped it around my finger and then moved my finger through the fall range of motion. The sensation was like a good, slightly painful stretch. I repeated the process at work every hour or so and went from limited range of movement to full range with no pain.

This is all just for info, I'm not trying to sell anything/prove a point.

[abarro81]

Cheers Rob. I cut the end off a theraband this afternoon and tried it.. will continue for a while and post back any thoughts on here

[TMR]

I've found it to be effective for treating tennis and golfers elbow flare ups. Just made my own band out of a used bicycle inner tube. What have you got to lose? I would agree though that the linked article is a bit too "click bait" for my liking. The videos on the mobility wod website on this topic are far more palatable.

[mctrials23]

I'm going to give this a go for my niggling a2 to see if it makes any difference. Think it's healed for the most part but it's still not quite right. I saw a few videos on "flossing" on mobility WOD a while back but didn't realise it could be used on a finger. I briefly tried it on my ankle to try and restore some range of motion but forgot to continue.

[36chambers]

how's it going for everyone?

I did it on the hour all day yesterday and my tweaky finger just feels more agitated than anything else. Undecided as to whether I should continue today.

[mctrials23]

Seems to do it a bit of good. Gets the blood rushing in the finger which can't be a bad thing. My finger is nearly healed so its hard to say if the flossing is helping that much or if it just coincides with the natural recovery but the niggling feeling near my A2 is pretty much gone.

[Three Nine]

my finger goes pink afterwards - same as with lewis reaction thing

[mctrials23]

my finger goes pink afterwards - same as with lewis reaction thing

Yeah, I think thats part of the benefit of it. I really struggle to get the lewis reaction to happen so anything that is more reliable is a win in my books.

[Three Nine]

Gets the blood rushing in the finger which can't be a bad thing.

Except initially, in the phase of acute inflammation where you prob dont want to increase bloodflow.

[petejh]

Reckon this is going to be topic du jour for a while! Bro-science..
Makes sense in theory to break up and mobilise the tissue surfaces and flush it all out - that's pretty much what deep friction massage is doing. An interesting way of doing it. Bit like isolating a trigger point in a tight forearm using a hard ball, and then flexing/extending the arm.

Just got a tweaked rotator cuff/bicep tendon (not sure which yet) last night so going to be trying this in a few days' time when the inflammation has gone down a little. Shoulder wrapping looks a mission.

Seems adhesions play a significant role in symptoms post injury healing - I have an issue with nerve adhesion following surgery, which I need to manage from time to time. The sheath of the sciatic nerve occasionally gets a little stuck to some scar tissue left by surgery, and the way to relieve the resulting discomfort is nerve flossing.

[mctrials23]

Gets the blood rushing in the finger which can't be a bad thing.

Except initially, in the phase of acute inflammation where you prob dont want to increase bloodflow.

Indeed. I don't think I have seen this technique being mentioned at any time in relation to the early stages of healing an injury. Seems to work for later stage rehab and repair. I guess thats one of the areas of recovery that isn't very well understood by the average punter. Pain doesn't necessarily correlate to injury and once the physical damage is repaired there can still be a lot of issues with scar tissue etc.

[abarro81]

After a few days trying this I've found it makes my finger feel nice and flushed out for a few min after but has changed nothing on actual holds, as might be expected given the timeframe

[mctrials23]

After a few days trying this I've found it makes my finger feel nice and flushed out for a few min after but has changed nothing on actual holds, as might be expected given the timeframe

What are you hoping to fix and what stage in the recovery are you at?

[andy_e]

I shall try this out on my permafucked left middle finger. If it works, I'm moving for it to be renamed a less pseudoscientific bullshit-sounding name.

[abarro81]

After a few days trying this I've found it makes my finger feel nice and flushed out for a few min after but has changed nothing on actual holds, as might be expected given the timeframe

What are you hoping to fix and what stage in the recovery are you at?

I've got an old collateral ligament injury. It's basically fixed but that finger clicks and crunches extensively whenever I put it into extension after flexing it closed first so I think there's a lot of scar tissue etc in there. Picked up a slight pulley tweak too in the finger but that's pretty minor, I have a suspicion that it may partly be down to all the shit n that finger making the tendons and pulleys not run smoothly.

[IS2]

Worked suspiciously well on my long term shoulder pain. It came back with a vengeance by the end of play yesterday, tried this for four 2 minute pumps this morning, pain gone!!! Enough to encourage me to keep it going throughout rest days for awhile.

[Nibile]

Worked suspiciously well on my long term shoulder pain. It came back with a vengeance by the end of play yesterday, tried this for four 2 minute pumps this morning, pain gone!!! Enough to encourage me to keep it going throughout rest days for awhile.

How did you wrap your shoulder?

[IS2]

Worked suspiciously well on my long term shoulder pain. It came back with a vengeance by the end of play yesterday, tried this for four 2 minute pumps this morning, pain gone!!! Enough to encourage me to keep it going throughout rest days for awhile.

How did you wrap your shoulder?

Used an old lightweight thearaband, with wife's assistance wrapped from mid bicep up to armpit and over the deltoid ... Fairy tight. I then did my usual "shoulder opening " routine ( foam roller along the spine, 1.5 Kg in each hand, arms spread, gradually stretching with slight lift on the inhale and drop on the exhale)...and a few light bicep curls.

[Nibile]

Cheers.