[Sasquatch]

I have a new project and it's pretty much nails hard sharp vertical crimping for 85 feet.  I've mostly bouldered for the last decade, and mostly on granite.  Overhanging at least a little bit has been the name of the game. 

In this GRADE range and style, what's the best bet for shoes?   Miura, white's, pink's?????

The crux sections mainly involve micro edges for feet, 2-5mm realistically.  No crux smears with current beta.  A couple smedging feet, but mainly small sharp crimps. 

[ghisino]

Whites.

Other 5.10 models could be a replacement but only for very few tries when still smelling good...

[Will Hunt]

Probably something nice and stiff. I've found the Muira lace ups to be amazing on small edges.

[haydn jones]

Scarpa instincts. They are stiffer than whites and keep stiffer for longer too. Able to toe hook and decent heel too which the white can't imo

[blamo]

I have been a fan of Testarossas, but more importantly is having new shoes with a good edge.  It seems like as soon as the temps go up or the shoe edge gets worn you are done.  I tend to warm-up for such projects in a different pair of shoes and take off my project shoes the second I hit the ground.

Good luck!

[Sasquatch]

Yeah, I feel like I'm going to need a really crisp edge, and it's going to take quite a few working days to dial in the sequences.  I'll mainly be using older more broken shoes(either instinct vs or miura vs) during the working phase, but I have a brand new pair of Miura vs as an option (I had ordered them a couple days before project discovery). 

I'm really looking for the best possible option specifically for this type of climbing.  I've never tried the whites, and haven't had a pair of pinks since the 90's, so those are both on the radar, the testarossa's are a decent shout, but i'd be concerned that the downturn is too aggressive for a couple of the critical holds which are small slots. 

Edit:  And THANK YOU for the feedback. 

[nik at work]

If you can find them then a pair of the short lived old pink replacement from 10-ish tears ago that was green but with a cream side panel (anasazi masi???) is the best edgey climbing style boot I have ever had. Obviously the chance of getting some is close to zero but if you see a pair...
Never had whites so dunno how they compare. Instincts is a pretty good shout I reckon, I rate them on edgey vert stuff (certainly the shoe du jour for my current vert style project).
Worth noting I am not by any standards a shoe weenie so my input should be given a suitably light weighting...

[robertostallioni]

on this occasion Nik has indeed stumbled across the truth. However if you can wait till spring(I expect) the 5.10 verdon will tick all your boxes.wide feet need not apply.

[nik at work]

The stallions word is law.

[robertostallioni]

  my words not even law in my own house. 5.10 mesa's were the old grey/green flat shoes with a plastic midsole. lovely jubbly. After that came the blue T-rocks, also an ideal shoe. Then came the barren years.... whites have a similar stiffness for about a week. but the heels shat. Both the Mesa's, T-rocks and indeed the Verdons have a heel more akin to the dragon.

In a word - flat stiff dragon.

[mrjonathanr]

Magos edge amazingly, especially round the toe. Instinct VS seems soft by comparison. I use both, depending on the route.

[TobyD]

on this occasion Nik has indeed stumbled across the truth. However if you can wait till spring(I expect) the 5.10 verdon will tick all your boxes.wide feet need not apply.

Verdons will feel very good, I reckon. Tried some on a month or so ago. I have wide-ish feet if anything, and they felt okay to me; however I only wore them for about 3 minutes. One of the only boots I've tried which feel stiff but you can really feel what you're standing on; Scarpas always feel really wooden and imprecise to me.

[Fultonius]

Magos edge amazingly, especially round the toe. Instinct VS seems soft by comparison. I use both, depending on the route.

They do, but they lack a bit of sensitivity no? 

[Sasquatch]

cheers all.  I've got ping pong paddle feet, eee width, so 5.10's tend to be a bit impossible.

Do you mean the instinct lace or vs?  If the instinct vs are a good shout, then i'll get a new pair and keep going.  I've been using em for bouldering, and they seem like a fantastic all-a-rounder. 

I'll check out the verdon in the spring and see then.  I currently expect this to be a multi-season to multiyear project, but it may come together faster than i expect as well.  So it's sounding like a new pair of instinct vs is the ticket.

[Tommy]

When they come out the new Five Ten Verdons are bloomin' good. I've been really impressed and I'm a very fussy customer when it comes to hard edging! I wouldn't have thought that'd have been so good as the heel tension isn't ridiculous, but rest assured they stay stiff and mint for a good while.

[petejh]

Can you drytool your proj? Monopoint crampons and sportiva trango extreme's take some beating for small edges. Failing that 5.10 Whites come a close second once broken in. Also heard good things about the verdons, looking forward to these.

[DaveyDave]

I'll check out the verdon in the spring and see then.

The rep on the video advertising them said August so maybe later this month?

[mrjonathanr]

 

Magos edge amazingly, especially round the toe. Instinct VS seems soft by comparison. I use both, depending on the route.

They do, but they lack a bit of sensitivity no?

Absolutely! Edging a difficult wall is very much like making love to a beautiful woman: first you choose suitable protection, then you boot up and step on it with care and delicacy like a gazelle, creeping higher and higher with every foot stroke. Don't go in too hard though as you don't want to break anything - one slip and you're out of there and you may have to wait for ages before you get another go

Disclaimer: Magos are still the biz for edging. Never tried them romantically though