we may not know what is best yet, but we know how to get really strong. the hardest part is executing this properly and not fooling ourselves into thinking we are strong because we can do a shit one-armer, or feel like we trained hard because we are tired afterwards.
Quote from: rodma on August 06, 2015, 12:19:23 pmwe may not know what is best yet, but we know how to get really strong. the hardest part is executing this properly and not fooling ourselves into thinking we are strong because we can do a shit one-armer, or feel like we trained hard because we are tired afterwards. +1
Maybe if you'd identified that you got one finger that was disproportionately weaker than the rest, but otherwise isn't it just going to take 8-10 times as long to do a training session, and potentially not be very specific to climbing?
One arm hangs are better but I don't feel they target the fingers as much due to the shoulde, arm and back involvement.
Moreover: the study that jwi posted, which stated that the sum of the force produces by each finger individually was a lot greater than that produced by four fingers together, is highly biased because of the different holds used to measure each. The four fingers half crimp cannot be related to four single fingers dragged.
Why they didn't measure the force of the individual fingers on the same wooden edge, I'll never know, and I suspect that explains why the deficit was so large.
Training doesn't have to be fun. If you're having fun, often you're not training at your best. Performing is fun.
...but I have to say that Macke made a terrible impression. Being unable to express your innovative training concepts in a clear and simple way is not good neither professional. Hiding behind strange words or confused explanations is a very poor show, especially if you're trying to revolution climbing's training well proven basics.
Isolating fingers is probably not a great idea for half crimping due to the lateral forces and the lack of stabilising fingers so I was planning to use standards methods to train that but I'm certainly going to give the one finger training a go on my open hand.
Isolating muscles seems like a worthwhile means of determining if you have a weakness in the overall chain.