[Doylo]

Stop hating on the geez

[danm]

To be fair to 3-9, if you're going to be a cunt, you might as well be a funny cunt.

Oh, and good arrows, Barrows.

[shark]

And he's done another

Chuffed to have started up Ron Fawcett's Extreme Rock classic, Deja Vu today and continued directly through the roof via Pete Gomersall & Jill Lawrence's 1975 aid line (with a slight deviation). I've left the clips in Premonition 8b+ so fill your boots boys & girls.[/url]

[shark]

Chuffed to have started up Ron Fawcett's Extreme Rock classic, Deja Vu today and continued directly through the roof via Pete Gomersall & Jill Lawrence's 1975 aid line (with a slight deviation). I've left the clips in Premonition 8b+ so fill your boots boys & girls.[/url]

More on Premonition here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69952

[T_B]

Nice one but Neil's blasé attitude about retro-bolting the start of Deja Vu (and the middle of it by the sounds of it) is sad to read. It's an Extreme Rock E5 FFS and a very memorable one for E5 leaders, as the climbing is quite hard. I generally don't care that much thesedays about bolts appearing on chossy Peak lime, but this is a 3-star classic on perfect rock at Kilnsey. Why doesn't he just replace the threads and pre-clip them? The start is 7a climbing and the route is 8b+? Seems like he's lost his marbles. And everyone knows that Big Ron can be found at the Works any day of the week, so more likely he's ignoring you Neil.

Next it'll be Wiseblood (an absolutely stonking and hard E6 to the left) that gets retroed and then no doubt Balas 

[Jerry Morefat]

Nice one but Neil's blasé attitude about retro-bolting the start of Deja Vu (and the middle of it by the sounds of it) is sad to read.

I had similar concerns after reading the UKC article. In Neil's defence it's not clear if the one bolt he added is actually on, or clippable whilst climbing, Deja Vu. According to the UKC article "A new bolt on the lower wall now enables the middle section of Visitation to be linked to the upper groove of Deja Vu". Maybe Neil, or someone else, could clarify?

[cowboyhat]

He mentioned this on fcbk a year ago about retro bolting the start of those routes. I had the temerity to disagree with him and was rounded on by his braying sycophants who've seen him on BBC breakfast.

Apart from that I was disappointed by Neil's attitude.

I'm gossiping here but the thread is on his FB wall somewhere.

[geoffg]

I led Deja Vu for the umpteenth time a few months ago and I was surprised to find an extra bolt in it. The new bolt is actually on Visitation and not the original line of Deja Vu.

However I agree with the above sentiments that there is no need for it and as Tom says it will only encourage more people to question whether to retro other trad routes.

I'm almost tempted to take it out!

[abarro81]

Doubt most would mind if it came out, could always go up visitation

[Fiend]

He mentioned this on fcbk a year ago about retro bolting the start of those routes. I had the temerity to disagree with him and was rounded on by his braying sycophants who've seen him on BBC breakfast.

I'm gossiping here but the thread is on his FB wall somewhere.

Might be gossip but the point is a good one and that's a fine turn of phrase

[Paul B]

the start is still on the threads isn't it? Steve Crowe replaced these earlier in the year.

[geoffg]

Yes the start is still on the same threads

[moose]

The start is definitely still on the threads.  I am not sure utterly certain, and stand to be corrected,  but I think Steve Crowe either replaced or added new bolts on Visitation and/or Diminishing Returns last year (which are share the same start but end left of Deja Vu) - but left the start on threads to retain the slightly artificial trad-ness of Deja Vu (supposedly the thread placements are drilled - so it is hardly "natural" gear).

[TobyD]

I'm almost tempted to take it out!

I think you should if you're there. Quality trad challenges should be left as the challenges they are for those that want it.

[Paul B]

Nice one but Neil's blasé attitude about retro-bolting the start of Deja Vu (and the middle of it by the sounds of it) is sad to read. It's an Extreme Rock E5 FFS and a very memorable one for E5 leaders, as the climbing is quite hard.

Hopefully this doesn't come across sycophantic, I had a discussion with Neil about this at the crag (before this thread) and he didn't come across blasé about it at all. I think he'd asked/discussed replacing the lower threads with bolts, the general consensus was no, so it didn't/hasn't happened.

Having enjoyed a couple of these trad routes a long time ago I'm not keen for more bolts. This issue was raised recently (perhaps in reference to face value[!], either on the Yorks. Lime lifts FB page or the Yorks. Bolt Fund FB page and I think this position was defended.

Out of interest, which of the threads are drilled?

[T_B]

The quote I'm referring to is on a news item on UKC

"I tried to track down big Ron to ask if he minded me replacing the first two threads on Deja Vu with bolts but he's something of an enigma these days and so the tats remain! Maybe a certain local old-school purist has kidnapped him, who knows."

[Fiend]

"Tats remain" implies threads remain?

[Stabbsy]

I'm almost tempted to take it out!

I think you should if you're there. Quality trad challenges should be left as the challenges they are for those that want it.

Like the Superdirectissima? Strikes me that this is a very different proposition now Hardy Annual has been rebolted.

[moose]

Out of interest, which of the threads are drilled?

Can't recall which of the three threads are drilled - might be all or only one of them - half-recalled gossip from Dave (he has been working Diminishing Returns) - I'll ask when he returns from holiday.

[SA Chris]

he has been working; diminishing returns

Sounds like my life.

[andy_e]

I'll ask if he returns from holiday.

[Paul B]

The threads were replaced tonight with two glue-ins. I believe this was after gaining the permission of both Pete Gomersall and Big Ron.

[Oldmanmatt]

Let the games commence!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dave]

"Please 'like' this post if you're on my side" - and if we're not?

Maybe Neil can name his next retrobolted new route "Confirmation Bias".

[geoffg]

There are still 2 green threads in the original line of Deja Vu. One of the problems is that the routes are now so close to each other that its difficult to know which holds go with which route. Bit like bouldering I suppose!
Neils route has the same start as Deja Vu but then follows Visitation for a few bolts before stepping right in to the niche and top wall of Deja Vu ( which has always been bolted)! At least I think I'm correct with that