[zmv]

Hello folks,

Having moved close to New Mills, I've started doing lots of evening sessions after work at that crag. A couple of questions on some problems:

Bionics Wall Left 6c+/direct 7a - according to UKC this has lost some holds. Is it still a similar grade?

Do you grab the triangular hold with both hands now (opposing) and then bump up to a grotty looking small finger rail? Seemed pretty desperate to me but maybe I'm just piss weak or missing an obvious foothold (likely both).


Bionics Wall Right - 6b+  - Did this use to be significantly easier with the sidepull which used to be there on Bionics Wall Direct? I can't even get off the ground? Can anyone provide any beta on how to get to the sloper?


Bionics Traverse - 7a+  absolutely awesome training trying it. Miniscule feet, super technical and burly at the same time.  Is this still 7a+ or harder having lost that sidepull at Bionics Direct?

Thanks for the beta folks. If anyone needs a training buddy, I think I'll be going there often during the week this autumn, give me a shout.

Happy climbing!

[dave k]

I can't remember exact sequences but happy to meet you down there sometime. I have done many many variants of problems as it used to be my local training wall.

The full traverse is fun, although the section using the dry stone wall detracts somewhat from it. 

[zmv]

Thanks. That'd be awesome. I'll probably head down next week if you fancy a little New Mills revisit.

I'm quite stoked that I can get to it easily, excellent crimpy problems. Been trying Grim Reaper Direct as well, big big jump

[ashtond6]

If I am correct, a huge block came out (outline can still be seen) which has made them much harder. I couldn't do it so no opinion on grade

[zmv]

Yup. Bionics Direct is I think at the same grade more less V3/maybe V4 if you're short, it's kinda hard to get decent purchase of the right hand of what is left.

Bionics right though, I can't even get off the ground! Could even be 6C/7A now? Or maybe I'm just missing something obvious.