[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. <- New Sub 75kg.
MTG: V8. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.
LTG: V11.

M: Rest. Core session at home.
T: St Leonards. New stuff. Ticked everything besides a crimpy mid range number that just hurt my fingers. Fingerboard and core afterwards.
W: Sissy. Warmed up (up to V4ish), fell off last move of V6, repeated a V7 I'd done a couple weeks ago. Managed to downclimb it too. Very pleased with that... Worked a few more things. Not a bad night.
T: St Peters. Got some of the harder things, flashed some, worked some. Decent session really.
F: Rest. 74.6kg!!! New low!
S: Rest.
S: Bangor Blocs and Alfords Point
Bangor: Not been here before. 2 big boulders in the bush with a handfull of problems up to V10. There were a couple of them that I wanted to try. 2 x V8s (Rocknasium and Goldfingers) and the V10 (Massive Attack). Warmed up and got on Rocknasium, all boiling down to a dyno out right to compression. Took a bunch of goes to stick it in isolation with alot of dabs... Eventually stuck it and then topped out 2nd go after that. Very low end of the V8 scale but still, first V8. Goldfingers was tough! Could barely get off the ground... Moved on pretty quick. Massive Attack, steep, big moves on decentish holds. Did most of them (its essentially 4 moves) bar the top out and the first move (I'm actually too short for it! Such a big move...)
Alfords: Warmed back up by repeating a V7 that I've done a bunch. It's also the end of a long as fuck V8 that I'm close on. Mate ticked his first V7 and I fell off the top out on the V8..... Gutted. It's a V7, link moves, into a V7. Loooong. Rested for far too long and then pretty much fluffed every move on it. Gave up half way and went home.

Pics:

Our Man From Havana. 3 move shoulder destroyer.



Rocknasium. Set up for dyno out right.

[Duma]

Nice one Jack!

[tomtom]

Good effort Jack!

Great pics too!

[fried]

 

Crap week for me.

M - temperature dropped to a cool 28° and I risked an indoor session, I dripped sweat just sitting on the mat. Lasted about an hour.
T - rest
W - Found a long piece of bamboo which is proving useful for doing shoulder stuff. Trying to do a few quick sessions everyday.
Th - rest
F - Indoor. cooler, but still hot, skip breakfast, eat half a sandwich straight before climbing probably didn't drink enough either. Result: first aura-migraine for about 6 years. When will I ever learn.
Sa - Nothing
S - Raining, feeling sorry for myself, started a FB session, but I'm using so much energy trying not to slide off the holds. Give up.

Better next week I hope.

[tomtom]

Chin up Fried

M: Beastmaker (6x3 large, 6x3 med, 6x3 small edges)

T: Had a daytime meeting South of Notts, so stopped off at Das Churnet on the way back to Manchester.. Had a much better session than my previous frustrating time - and managed the low start to Simple Simon (7A) which had some great lanky lunges to generally good holds and also got the Old Sloper Problem (7A) which was slappingly gratifying (last send of the day..). Had a play on Wrights Unconquerable again, but felt really uneasy about that first high footlock - especially on my own/no spotter etc...

W: Beastmaker (6x3 large, 6x3 med, 6x3 small edges)

Th: Trowbarrow: Feeling good after Tuesday, wanted to go and lay Shallow Grave to rest... slapped for the final hold on my first attempt which was good for a sighter - and got to that position a good few more times before I tired out. Went and played on Pit Problem (again) and left.. back started aching again (its Pit problem that does it - I MUST leave that problem alone). Went and met parents at Leighton Moss for lunch (nice jacket spud with Chilli) and went home some what disappointed but well fed

F: Beastmaker (6x3 large, 6x3 med, 6x3 small edges)

Sa: Set off early for Windy Clough: First time there - its of the same rock as Thorn Crag - fantastic fine grain grit - with some font like weathering features in places. It truly is in a magnificent spot - with a unhindered view across Morecambe Bay, the Lakes and to the South.. Anyway, had a really good day - getting Welcome to the Palindrome (6C) fairly easily, Country for old men (7A) reasonably well (had to warm into it) and had a great tussle with No Country For Old Men as shown in the vid below..
A great problem - a lot needs to be worked out despite its small stature. The first move (for me) involved a left heel toe (hidden in the vid) that meant I could use alot of core to make that first slap up to the arete hold. So much core that I thought I was going to be sick a couple of times (that sick feeling you get when you've maxed out on planks etc..).. The top out also took a large amount of working out as well. Being tall, I can keep my feet on the low block to the top - so it earns a 7A+ instead of 7B+ if you have to release the feet pre top.. I might go back and have a crack at it that way - as I think that might go now I've got the rest of it wired. If anyone is interested I have some low quality (into the sun) footage of the first two problems...



Su: Beastmaker (6x3 large, 6x3 med, 6x3 small edges)

A very good week.. four new 7's.... and (for the first time I think) training/climbing every day....

[Muenchener]

Crap week for me.

Better next week I hope.

I hope so too. Hang in there.

Return to morale for me after the low point of last Sunday night's empty handed & lonesome drive back from the Frankenjura. Had a good wall session with my alpine partner for next week & confirmed plans to meet up with Kelvin in .uk in August.

STG:      get some decent alpine routes done on DAV trip to Gesäuse at start of August
                Get a couple of days climbing in on UK family visit mid August
MTG (2015): redpoint two more 7a’s and a 7a+
LTG (2016/2017): Redpoint 7b (Sautanz)
 
M: bike one hour
T: Kochel bouldering. Good session: found a plausible sequence for the crux of my 7A+ traverse project. Mosquitos are normally a nuisance at Kochel in the evening, but today it seems was too hot even for them.
W:
T: Wall, Gilching. Routes 5c 6a+ 6b 6a+ 3x6c+ attempts. A dozen or so practice falls; trying to get into the habit of just letting go if The Plan doesn't work out instead of calling take (Kelvin you have been warned)
F: Bike one hour
S: (Legoland M jnr's birthday outing)
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Light bouldering/spotting M jnr for an hour or so to warm up, then circuits. Ticked a 7a third go (yyfy) despite the redpoint crux being climbing down to the finishing holds. Agree with what Alex said in the training beta podcast: this aspect of circuits is stupid and rather pointless.

[mr chaz]

STG: no friggin idea
LTG: see above

M. Wall session. Max hangs routine, 5.5kg pulley assistance. Followed by press-ups.
T.
W. Wall session. 40 degree board, working new problems. Haven't touched the board for well over a month so unsurprisingly felt weak.
T. 40 degree board again. Much better today, back onto old projects and feeling surprisingly strong. Campussed several easy problems on the steep overhang too. Felt good to use some real power after concentrating on getting route fit for a while.
F.
S. L.P.T. First time here. Went with a friend who'd been on Mussel Beach several years ago. Had 2 goes on this. 1st was awful, got pumped instantly and was struggling to dog up. 2nd go made it to the crux section after the bulge/undercut, totally boxed. Then did the crux/top in isolation. Really like the route and feel its doable within a couple of sessions, shame it's such a long drive!
Afternoon spent in the Cave. Got back on Rock Atrocity and came close to doing it within a couple of goes (have had a session trying it before). In the final slot feeling super strong for the last move when my right foot skidded straight off, taking me with it. Went downhill from this point so quickly retreated into town for fish and chips.
S.

Not a bad week, felt good to be back on the board. Had a good day in Llandudno, despite failing to close the account on Rock Atrocity. Thinking I might go back next week at some point to give it a proper effort on fresh arms, weather forecast is looking shocking so might be the only dry spot anyway.

In terms of goals I don't really know where to go next. I've achieved my long term sport goal of 8a RP, and surpassed all my expectations bouldering wise this year too. Guess I'd like to do more at 8a and 7C for now. I guess my next major (very long term  ) goal would be an 8A boulder...

[kelvin]

A dozen or so practice falls; trying to get into the habit of just letting go if The Plan doesn't work out instead of calling take (Kelvin you have been warned)

You're thin. I'm fat. No sweat.

[cheque]

STG- 7a+ or (ideally) 7b on lime before September 18th.

MTG- 100 routes at 24HHH and The Show Me State in September, Wall of Horrors in October.

LTG- "Just to try and really push myself and see where we can go with this sport" 

M- Rest.

Tu- Cheedale Cornice. Got on Clarion Call, a route I'd wanted to try for years. I was surprised how good (ace moves, great variety of styles, the sort of positions that have long made me aspire to climb at the Cornice), hard (the only 7a I've been on that felt harder is Darl at Two Tier) and intimidating (five bolts seems stingy considering the shorter routes either side have 6- makes the aforementioned positions feel even wilder) it is and flailed badly. First two goes I didn't have anything left for the top and I only just make it up there to strip it third go.

W- Rest. Forearms feel like bricks. But in a good way.

Th- Cheedale Cornice. Back on Clarion Call. Still find it nails but improving. Again only climb the top section on my last go but by that time I've done it clean up to the rest at the 4th bolt.

F- Rest.

Sa- Cornice again. Feel like I can do Clarion Call if I can sort the top half out. With a time limit and a rainy week forecast it feels urgent. Make it to the 4th bolt first go (as a warm-up ) but balls the top up. Next go top-rope it all clean, then lower down and immediately climb from the rest again while pumped. Feels like I have a chance of redpointing it clean after a long rest, but this will be my only chance before I have to leave. Get perfectly in the zone but some sort of marching band (!) on the Monsal Trail bursts my mental bubble as I clip the last bolt and I do the rockover next to it with my right foot too low. I make it but only just and the ensuing rush of blood to the head makes me fumble through the next moves and blow the British 4c penultimate move. I've never even felt close to dropping it there! Embarrassing sweary rage ensues- the first time I've ever done this  .   

Su- While driving up the M1 for a peaceful afternoon at Hardwick Hall with my girlfriend another driver inexplicable rear-ends me twice then continues driving like nothing's happened. Follow him to the next exit where he turns off, expecting him to pull over somewhere practical for an explanation, apology and (at the very least) an exchange of insurance details. Instead what is perhaps the lamest car chase in the history of motoring ensues, with my knackered 02 Micra following his 06 Focus around Derbyshire ex-pit villages at or below the speed limit, at one point going round a medium-sized roundabout 3-4 times.  As my girlfriend's on the phone to the police (surely he realised that this would be happening as I'd had a full 10 minutes to read his number plate?!) I realise I've nothing to gain from attempting to confront him so leave him to return to the M1 while I park up to assess the (thankfully minor) damage to the Chequemobile. An afternoon of tedious insurance company/ police admin (featuring nearly two hours at the single-staffed desk of Nottingham Central Police station with a queue of angry & scary people building up behind me) follows, with an increasingly stiff and twingey neck. Not the best day of my life or the fun couple day I'd promised my patient climbing-widow girlfriend!


Forgetting about the weird events of today, I've loved the great conditions and atmosphere at the Cornice this week. Hopefully it will survive the forecast wet weather as I love climbing there and it's improving me as a climber rapidly- going from the floor to the 4th bolt on Clarion Call four times when I could barely string 3 moves together on it days previously is surely an example of this. Gutting not to tick it yesterday but I've learnt a lot tactically from the process (namely work the whole route each time and get on the lead as soon as possible) despite the frustration.

[kelvin]

Nice one Jack 

 Tom - really solid week there. What's the fingerboarding comprise off?

End of a two month period of trying hard moves. Feeling stronger than I ever have but endurance is down.

STG - Salbit Sudgrat. Fly out Aug 4th.
MTG - Tick some stuff in Spain.
LTG - Salbit West Ridge and something (anything) on Kleinwinterhoek in SA.

Mon - Pinnacle systems board. Worked undercuts and sidepulls.
Tue - Rest. Fingers sore after three days on.
Wed - Water-cum-jolly. Mate wanted to tick Incapacity Benefit 7a+, so worked that with him.
Thu - Yoga
Fri - Pinnacle. Ropes on comp wall. Flashed 6a, failed 6a, failed 6a+ with no psyche. Lapped a 5+. Then got on the systems board with a smile. Did better on everything! Even got a hold further on my made up project on wooden holds. Lapped the yellow and blacks and almost ticked the black problem. No grades on non of this.
Sat - Worked.
Sun - Climbing Hanger, Derby. Volume session, legged around doing all the easy stuff and missing out holds whilst practising locks offs and rockovers. Ticked a crimpy orange easily (6B-C circuit), tried a few pinks and then loads of easy stuff again. 3hrs.

WCJ was amazing - what a venue. I was a bit gobsmacked to be honest, so much more impressive than Cheedale's and came away actually wanting to get stronger to be able to climb there. A really chilled out day with Eric - I always try really hard when he's around as he's just finished chemotherapy. Looked at the 6c to the right but it didn't appeal, so warmed up on and worked Incapacity with him. A couple of the decent holds I couldn't take with the right hand and that took a while to sort but I'm good to the third bolt now - the little crappy crimps that you match as you leave the break might well be the crux move for me but the hold over the roof is doable with the wrist. A very long game is on and it's a target for when I get back from Spain I guess. Never worked or redpointed anything, my hardest sports climbs are 6b flash but really enjoyed the learning process on Wednesday.

Head to Portland on Friday evening for three days and then fly to Swizzy for 7 days before Muenchener comes over for four days climbing and fall practice it would seem.

Life is sweet.

[tomtom]

Tom - really solid week there. What's the fingerboarding comprise off?

On the beastmaker (1000)...

6 x 7secs on 3 secs off on Large edges
2 min break
6 x 7secs on 3 secs off on Large edges
2 min break
6 x 7secs on 3 secs off on Large edges

10 min break

6 x 7secs on 3 secs off on Med edges
2 min break
6 x 7secs on 3 secs off on Med edges
2 min break
6 x 7secs on 3 secs off on Med edges

10 min break

6 x 7secs on 3 secs off on Small edges
2 min break
6 x 7secs on 3 secs off on Small edges
2 min break
6 x 7secs on 3 secs off on Small edges

Its not at my limit at all (of holding small holds that is) but I feel pretty pumped and worked out afterwards.. Seems to work OK (so far) on the days I'm not climbing - I guess it just works fingers, forearms - and my arms, shoulders, back and core in more of a static way.. See how it goes... no 'niggles' or warning pains have emerged yet which is a good sign..

[kelvin]

Half crimp, open hand - all four fingers?

*I like info. I'm a nosey git 

[tomtom]

Half crimp, open hand - all four fingers?

*I like info. I'm a nosey git 

All four fingers - half crimp (ish) - my LH half crimp is 1/4 open hand, and 3/4 half crimp for some reason.. Its more for 'general conditioning' (whatever that might be) rather than working on individual fingers/weaknesses. I am very careful to do them correctly - arms bent a fair bit, shoulders engaged, chest forward. Trying to get a bit more endurance (so I can boulder more than just an hour!) and also get used to holding crimps/smaller holds in a better way (with my body in a better position/way rather than sagging on for dear life..). Or something like that...

[shark]

11.5/6

M. AM Headed to the Chief with Tom and Toby with a view to doing Diedre a classic 6 pitch 5.8 slab. Too many parties when we got there so did Over the Rainbow a less classic 5 pitch 5.9. I led it all and started with a unprotected runout which was freaky followed by lots more switch-your-brain-off slab climbing. Got the hang of the US style belaying and using a reverso. PM Slogged up a hill to an obscure woody sport crag - Fern Hill. Tommy put the clips in the excellent Good Times 5.11a. I had a go at onsighting Its Not About You 5.12a but got spat off where it got hard. Tommy got his knickers in a twist on it and came down. I got it first redpoint and Tommy TR'ed it in a oner
T.
W. Lunch. Smoke Bluffs with Tommy. Led the super classic crack Penny Lane 5.9 then had a go at Climb and Punishment 5.10d. This used to have a peg which was gone. I got into a position uncomfortably far above a cam and feeling weary ad generally busted so half reversed a move and dropped onto the cam with Tommy shooting up. Pulled the ropes and got scared as the moves above the high point was sketchy. Probably similar in fear and difficulty to something like Hunky Dory at the Roaches. Still it was good to fall on trad gear and do a scaryish trad route for the first time in a couple of years. Did a nice 5.8, Quarry man and callled it a day
T. Grand Wall day ! Got up at 5am but by the time we got to the start there were 5 parties on it already. The top team looked super slow so we bailed. Did a brilliant 5.10c crack Exasperator in a single pitch and then went on Rutabaga another mega classic. Felt really comfortable on the top crux 11a corner and was thinking it was easy for the grade then had a random foot slip and took a flyer.   Tommy then had a bit of trauma following. PM Went to Pet Wall - the classic old skool sport crag. Superb rock. Me and Tommy did a class 5.11a Pleasant Pheasant as a warm up. Toby then pointed me at No Name Road the lowly 5.11b grade belied this huge wall climb which featured only 10 bolts in 37 meters. Managed to keep the pump at bay and onsighted it. Tommy managed to flash on TR all but an unfair last move reach. Big day. Eve. Went to a folk music event and repeatedly nodded off.   
F. Raining and felt completely busted. Met the legendary Heavy Duty in the afternoon
S. Rainy but went to Rogues Gallery - another uphill sport crag - with Tommy, Toby and Toby's mate Chris. Tommy and I paired up and both did the Compromise 5.11b to warm up. Then had a go at the very steep Sanctuary 5.11d. I muffed the initial moves. Lowered off and pulled the ropes and led it clean. Tommy led past where I fell off but got in a paddy with the sharp holds and eventually dogged to the top. Then did Ancient Heart 5.11c and Tommy had a bit of a mare and a sulk. I then had a go at onsighting the adjacent Yellowbeard 5.12a. Managed to do the hard climbing and clip the last bolt but was too pumped to get the rope in. On the dog I realised that I didn't even have to use the holds I clipped the bolt off. Short rest and perfunctory redpoint. We then to Vancouver to pick up Sonia, Ben and Poppy. Their flight was late and we had hassle with the car hire so didn't get back till late
S. Raining again. Had an impromptu campus board session with Toby. Didnt manage 1-4-6 on the large metolius rungs though did a double dyno in the end. Weather cleared up a bit in the afternoon so went back to Rogues for an evening session. Was raining intermittantly. Went on a steeper 11c to warm up but rain set in and it was hard so backed off at second bolt. Then went higher up the hill to a 10m 5.12b that Toby got shut down on the day before. He redpointed it and I got shut down instead.

Toby has been the perfect host taking us to great crags and we've done a fair portion of the Squamish top 100 routes though Raven Tor hasn't prepared me for the type of climbing or walk-ins here. Two more weeks to go and another sortie on the Grand Wall planned for tomorrow.

Inspired by JackAus here are some pics:



Tommy following Over the Rainbow 5.9



Yellowbeard 5.12a at Rogues Gallery



Exasperator 5.10c The Chief



Climb and Punishment 5.10c Smoke Bluffs



Its Not About You 5.12a Fern Hill



Heavy Duty !


             

[Muenchener]

Onsighted The Quarryman yyfy

[fatneck]

Some good stuff here guys! Keep it coming...

STG - Get out more
MTG - Climb more 7s
LTG - Climb a 7a+

Wife away this week so more than normal opps to get out!

Mon - Pilates at lunch - instructor not doing Monday's over summer so have found a hard 30 minute youtube workout. Did 50% of this, felt boxed...

Tue - Finished at lunch and went to Dove Lowe with Ol' Treebeard. Did a couple of new probs and my second 7a of the year! Also burnt Owen off three times. Felt good, blog here.... Had a play on a 7a+ lip traverse of Robin's and did all the moves. Keen to return to this...

Wed - Nothing at work - too busy then went fishing in the evening - only one trout though.

Thur - Nothing at work - finished half day and went fishing - 4 trout

Fri - Pilates at lunch - managed 75% of video - progress

Sat - Speed awareness course in the morning. Wife and Noodle back in the afternoon and cheffed a BBQ at sisters house = too much beer and food

Sun - Prepping for interview next Friday and hit the Hangar with the wife - great session. Managed to flash several reds and one white. Also managed another white on the new set. Good session.

Got an interview this Friday + weather looks gash so don't expect I'll do much this week!
 

[SA Chris]

STG - lost weight get strong
LTG Crush

M - Nothing worked all evening
T - Nothing worked all evening
W - deadline submitted. Felt totally drained, but had a nap in the van before wall session and felt a bit better, got a good session in, actually felt fairly light and strong.
T - weight in 12 st 13 3/4 - STG tick! nothing else.
F - Nothing - out for beers and undid all the hard work getting weight down
S - Day out with kids, did a bit of weights in evening
S - Bouldered in afternoon, had a good session repeated a load of stuff I've done FAs of recently, and they still felt hard, but managed to get them done. Also crucial breakthrough on beta for a traverse I've been working on. Need to return with a couple of pads and a spotter!

[kelvin]

Doh - I went to the Climbing Depot, not Hanger in Derby yesterday. *slaps head

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

[andy_e]

Heavy Duty !             

Hevy Duty and Heavy Booty.

[tomtom]

Both obviously heavily in conversation about their property portfolios..

[T_B]

Toby has been the perfect host taking us to great crags and we've done a fair portion of the Squamish top 100 routes though Raven Tor hasn't prepared me for the type of climbing or walk-ins here. Two more weeks to go and another sortie on the Grand Wall planned for tomorrow.
             

Do you plan to get on Freeway? Felt like E3 6a to me - low down crux a bouldery layback, pitch through the roof above the Truck Stop intimidating but over quite quickly IIRC. Even better is the Big Slick variation 

[T_B]

M -
T - Went to Squirrel Buttress but humid and couldn't get going on anything. Tor - couldn't do Powerhumps, but did both Powerband and Staminaband first go. Then messed around on a rope on the start of Revelations, getting a knee bar in to tickle the sidepull. Not sure it'd go with this method though.
W - Cornice WCJ - tried The Auctioneer 8a+. Did all moves and came together pretty quickly, would be on redpoint next visit.
T - Windy Knoll for "the best 7a+ on Peak Lime". Then tried the r-hand start multiple times but knackered.
F -
S - Highball Norwich. 2 hours of problems.
S -

Climbed three evenings in a row as family away. Probably over-cooked it on Tuesday as was quite tired Wednesday, then totally knackered come Thursday. Unexpected sess at Higball on comp style problems, was a bit crap. So fat I'm not posting weight this wk 

[webbo]

Heavy Duty !             

Apparently it should be spelt "Hevy".

One of a crew of retrobate Brits who crossed the pond BITD and liked it so much that they never came back. c.f. "Crusher", "Strappo", "Dirty" Derek (RIP), etc

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1841820/Alan-Hevy-Duty-Stevenson-Appreciation-thread

Have you checked there isn't a warrant out for him.

[Schnell]

STG: fix injuries: no negative progress this week at least, due to not doing any climbing
MTG: 7B in font in sept/october and 7C this winter.. (no.1 looking less likely as I continue to struggle with injuries)

Just posting this week to keep up the flagging psyche. Had decided to take the week off after retweaking finger
Tues and Thurs: did moderate sessions at home of pull ups, rows and various core and shoulder stability exercises
Sat. went to gym and did fairly big volume session of deadlifts, bench, lat pulldowns, rows, shoulder press and bw pullups. then core/shoulder stability. good session except that my finger was not happy with holding the bar when deadlifting so some of the rest week good work undone.

Struggling a bit with psyche due to continued injury woes. Judging pain and whether I'm progressively loading vs overdoing things is v. difficult for me, despite reading and rereading the section on this in Dave Mc's book.
 

[36chambers]

STG: more summer 7B/7Cs
MTG: 8A (zoo york/exorcist), hopefully this winter
LTG: 8B

M:
T: Almscliff, evening session. ticked DWR ear variation 7B+ and DWR left hand 7C. Also linked the last section of Exorcist long, following a recent meeting with Jon Pearson who highlighted lots of holds I'd never seen before.     
W: Spent 30 minutes massaging my forearms by repeatedly rolling them over a pestle. I never knew my forearms ached in so many places, it was agonising (in a good way).     
T: Almscliff, evening. Tired, arms felt useless following the massage.
F:
S: Exploring. Went to Thruscross, very disappointing/couldn't really find anything. Escaped to Snowden crag, ticked a few 7s. Had a brief play on The Brock and Energy Crisis, both now on the list.
S: Rain, Depot. Wanted to train power, but I was too tired, so just milled around.

As always I would love to start a rigorous training plan, but I'd much rather go outside as often as possible, which is currently 4/5 times a week (first world problems...). I've toyed with the idea of supplementary fingerboarding, but I'm always too exhausted from being outside. Something about having a cake and eating lots of cake??